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General Electric washing machines are loved by users due to their reliability, a huge selection of functions (up to 19 programs) and high build quality and parts. Also, manufacturers have taken care of an attractive and ergonomic design and excellent operation of all electronic and mechanical components. General Electric washing machine repairs are rare.
However, it is the complexity of assembly and high manufacturability that provoke various breakdowns over time. We will talk further about what breakdowns are typical for General Electric machines, what they are expressed in, and how to fix them.
Causes of breakdowns SM General Electric
The common reasons that cause malfunctions of GE washing machines, service center specialists include:
- Incorrect initial setting.
- Voltage fluctuations in the mains, frequent power outages that disable the electronics of the machine.
- Washing powders and rinses of poor quality, excess powder.
- Clogged water drain filter.
- Violation of the operating rules prescribed in the user manual.
To reduce the impact of harmful effects, it is worth connecting the SMA to the network through an RCD and a voltage stabilizer. Water softeners – your choice: they won’t hurt, but without fanaticism.
Only two actions will help from blockages of the drain filter:
- Check pockets of clothing before washing for small items.
- Periodically clean the filter of the General Electric washing machine.
Signs of failure in GE machines
According to the signs of malfunctions that appear mainly during washing, rinsing or spinning, you can understand whether it is possible to repair a General Electric washing machine with your own hands.
If the failure is not severe, you can repair it yourself. In case of complex breakdowns, you will have to call the master. But first, let’s look at how the General Electric washing machine signals breakdowns:
- Water appeared under the machine – there was a leak. Most often this is caused by a rupture of the hatch cuff, depressurization of the connection of hoses and pipes.
- SMA knocks when working. If there are no extra items in the drum that could cause knocking and noise, then most likely you will have to change the bearings and seals.
- After completing the program selected by the user, the machine does not drain the water. This is caused by a clogged drain pump. Cleaning the filters and pump will help solve the problem. The pump needs to be replaced if it is burned out.
- Water is not heated. A temperature sensor or control board may be involved in this, but most often the culprit of the breakdown is a thermoelectric heater (TEN). It breaks due to scale remaining on it due to the hardness of the water, or simply wastes its resource. In any case, the heating element must be replaced to avoid a short circuit and a possible fire.
- Water is supplied to the tank all the time. This is caused by a violation of the position (or initially incorrect installation) of the water drain hose. Checking the level of the hose suspension will help to eliminate the breakdown. If that doesn’t work, you’ll need a more serious overhaul.
- Failures in the control system. Most likely, the electronic control unit (controller) was damaged. Such a breakdown is almost impossible to fix on your own, so it is better to contact a specialist.
You can fix many of the breakdowns described above without the help of a wizard, and then we will take a closer look at the repair instructions – with photos and videos.
We determine the breakdown of General Electric by error code
In General Electric washing machines equipped with an electronic display, fault codes can alert you to a breakdown. The most common error codes are IE, 7E, E, dE, UE and OE.
Let’s briefly consider the essence of the errors:
- IE – pressure switch error (water level sensor). Need to clean the hydraulic system of the sensor or replace it.
- 7E – no water is supplied to the drum. To begin with, it is worth checking the presence of water in the water supply system and make sure that there is pressure. If everything is in order with the plumbing, the filling valve or pressure sensor may need to be replaced.
- E – water is in the drum. In order for the water to leave the tank, it may be necessary to clean the drain system. If the blockage is not your case, then the drain pump, pressure switch or control board could fail.
- dE – the error indicates an unlocked hatch. You need to try to press the door tighter. If the error persists, you may need to change the sunroof lock device (UBL).
- UE – drum unbalance. It is possible that the linen has strayed into one big lump, which caused the imbalance. Leveling the machine should help. Otherwise, you will need a complete disassembly of the case and complex repairs.
- OE – the machine has poured a lot of water into the tank. It is worth trying to clean the pressure switch nozzle. If it does not help, you will have to replace the sensor with a new one.
Do-it-yourself General Electric washing machine repair
In this article, we will consider self-repair of General Electric brand machines using the most common models as an example: WWH 5602/6602/7602/8602 vww.
General Electric does not heat water
As we said, this breakdown is most often caused by the failure of the temperature sensor or electric heater. How to check and replace the sensor and heater:
- Disconnect the SMA from the mains.
- Remove the back panel – usually the heating element is located at the back of the machine (and the sensor is built into the heater). If the heating element is in front, remove the front panel.
- The heating element is located under the drum. Remove the drive belt from the pulley if it interferes and disconnect the wires coming from the sensor and heater (remember, take a picture and mark them).
- Unscrew the nut that fixes the heating element in the grooves, but not completely – it should be at the very end of the bolt. Then push it inward along with the hairpin.
- Grasp the contacts and pull the heating element towards you, slightly loosening it from side to side. It may take some effort.
If in your model the heating element is located frontally, watch this video:
If the manufacturer has provided for the location of the heater on the back side, another video will come to the rescue:
How to check the sensor and heater General Electric
In principle, according to the state of the heater, one can judge the breakdown visually. If it is overgrown with scale, then it definitely needs to be changed. But if everything is in order with the heating element, it is worth checking it with a tester – perhaps the problem is not in it, but in the sensor, which also needs to be called.
TEN is checked like this:
- Take the tester and select the resistance measurement mode.
- Attach the probes to the heater contacts.
- The nominal resistance should be 20-25 ohms.
If everything is in order with the heater, check the sensor as follows:
- Remove the thermistor from the heater and place it in a glass of water at a temperature of 30 degrees. Measure the resistance.
- Then place it in boiling water (95 degrees).
- In the first case, the resistance should be 9,8 kOhm, in the second – 1,09 kOhm. If the data is different, the sensor is out of order.
If the sensor needs to be replaced, change it. If the heating element is broken, buy a new one and install it in place of the old one.
Important! Masters recommend changing the heating element along with a rubber gasket that holds it in the groove.
Self-repair of other breakdowns by General Electric is not much different from the repair of CMs of other brands. Guided by general principles, you can replace almost any washer assembly and restore its performance without the help of a wizard.