Malfunctions of AEG washing machines – do-it-yourself repair

Repair of AEG washing machines (AEG) is extremely rare due to the high quality of the German assembly.

However, no one canceled external factors: power surges, plumbing problems, hard water, etc. Therefore, such good washing machines as AEG can break down.

Causes and signs of the main breakdowns of AEG brand SM

  • Improper operation;
  • Manufacturing defects;
  • Force Majeure.

All these factors can cause a breakdown, as a result of which the heating element or the control module may burn out.

The most common CM AEG failures include:

  1. Water is in the drum, the washing machine does not wash.
  2. Water does not warm up to the required temperatures. The laundry is not washed due to cold water, or the wash does not start at all.
  3. Rotating the drum of the switched off SM, you hear a rattle or knock.
  4. No water enters the drum.
  5. During operation, extra sounds are heard.
  6. Knocks out the machine, RCD, traffic jams.
  7. Water constantly flows into the drum.

Many of these failures are caused by the following faults:

  • The heater has failed.
  • Temperature sensor burned out.
  • The electronic control module (controller) has broken.
  • Drain pump damaged.

Self-diagnosis of AEG breakdowns

If the machine started to work abnormally, then you can try to figure out on your own what’s wrong. If your model has an electronic scoreboard, then an error code should appear on it: E11 (C1), E21 (C3, C4), E61 (C7), E71 (C8), E74, EC1, CF (T90).

What do these alphanumeric combinations mean, consider below.

Error codeThe cause of
E11 (C1)Water does not enter the tank, which may be caused by a broken filling valve.
E21 (also C3 or C4 for some models)Waste water is retained in the tank for a long time. This can be caused by a failed pump or, more rarely, a failed electronics module.
E61 (C7 on some models)Water does not warm up to the indicated t. For example, you set the wash to 50 degrees, but the water remains cold. Often means a breakdown of the heating element.
E71 (C8)Incorrect resistance readings of the temperature sensor. The problem can be both in the temperature sensor and in the heating element (but this is less common).
E74The temperature sensor is displaced, the wiring has gone.
EC1Fill valve blocked. There are two options: either the problem is in the valve itself, or the control module has failed.
CF (T90)Always indicates failure of the electronic controller (module, board).

Important! Error E61 (C7) can only be seen by turning on the self-diagnosis mode!

There are a lot of AEG washing machine models, so the list of errors can be huge. We propose to consider the most frequent.

How to self-diagnose the AEG machine

Due to the fact that some codes only appear in diagnostic mode, we will explain how to carry it out:

  1. Turn the program selector to the “OFF” (AUS) position, this will cancel the previously started wash program. Unplug the machine.
  2. Press and hold two buttons at once: “Start / Start” (Pause) and “Exit”.
  3. Turn on the CM and turn the programmer wheel 1 slot to the right.
  4. Again, press the buttons from 2 points together and hold until you see that the error code appears on the display.

Leaving the test mode is simple: turn on, turn off and turn on the machine.

Do-it-yourself AEG machine repair: fixing the main breakdowns

Having determined what the fault codes mean, you can start the repair yourself or call the wizard. If you are a brave craftsman with experience, feel free to start repair work: they will not cause you any particular difficulties. Well, if you have no time to understand the intricacies of repair, it is better to invite a specialist.

The heating element in the AEG car is out of order: what to do?

This is relevant when errors E61 (C7), E71 (C8) are detected.

Follow this action plan to remove the old heating element from the machine and replace it with a new one:

  1. Order/buy/find the original heating element.
  2. Carefully inspect the back cover of the washer housing. Look for a modest-sized hatch in it for technological purposes. If it is there, then you can be sure that the heating element is in front. If the hatch is not found, then the developers placed the heating element at the back. If you are a little in doubt, then disassemble the case from the back first (it is easier to do there).
  3. Having found access to the heating element, armed with a multimeter (tester), check it. If the node is working, the indicators should be 30 ohms.
  4. If you find a malfunction, get rid of the useless part. To do this, find a large bolt in the center, remove it. Then release the heating element from the contacts and sensors.

Carefully! When taking out the temperature sensor, do not pull it sharply towards you. There is a tab at the top that you need to press down to quickly remove the sensor from the hole.

  1. Shaking the heating element to the left, then to the right, gently pull it towards you and remove it from the holder.
  2. Take a new heating element, insert in place of the old one, tighten the bolt. Connect all contacts and sensors in reverse order.

Do-it-yourself temperature sensor replacement

Relevant for errors E71 (C8) and E74

In modern washing machines, a thermistor mounted on a heating element is used as a temperature sensor. Therefore, when checking the heating element with a tester, at the same time take time for the thermistor. To replace it, too, it will not take much effort and time – as described above, holding the sensor tab, carefully remove it and replace it with a new one.

Troubleshooting the AEG drain pump

If an error E21 (C3, C4) occurs, indicating a breakdown of the pump (drain pump), you can remove and replace it with a new one without the help of a master, doing everything yourself. Getting to the pump is a little more difficult than getting to the heating element, so stock up on tools and patience.

To get to the location of the drain pump, you need to remove the front wall of the SM. Follow these instructions:

  • Detach the top cover from the case.
  • Next, remove the front panel, behind which the manufacturer has located the drain filter (just drain the remaining waste water) and unscrew the bolts holding the pump (pump).
  • Having taken out the container for powder and rinse aid, unscrew the bolts on which the control panel is attached.
  • Carefully lift the panel, being careful not to touch the wiring.
  • Remove the clamp from the cuff of the drum – you also need to get rid of it.
  • Loosen the screws holding the housing cover in front, moving it away for now.
  • Remove the pump from the wiring and loosen the clamps.
  • Having taken out the pump, remove the snail and inspect the impeller – it may have breakages or debris. Along with this, taking a tester, you can check the motor winding.
  • After making sure that the pump is malfunctioning, install a new part that matches your model of the AEG machine. Connect sensors and wires, assemble SMA in reverse order.

AEG control board repair

Repair or replacement will be needed if CF (T90), EC1 or E21 (C3, C4) errors occur.

Often, a breakdown of an electronic module is accompanied by breakdowns of other systems and components, so the first difficulty that you may encounter during repairs is the diagnosis of a breakdown.

The second problem is that it is not always clear whether the control module should be changed or repaired.

That is why, if firmware or replacement of the board is required, it is better not to save money and turn to the master, who will check the board with special equipment and make his verdict – repair or change.

Additionally: what to do if the AEG machine is leaking

Another common problem that AEG brand SM owners face is that their washing machine is leaking. Water and electricity are not best friends, so the problem is acute and dangerous, it needs to be addressed quickly.

The culprits in this situation are the hatch cuff or the inlet hose. The pipes leading to the drain pump could also fail, or the stuffing box has served its time. You can replace damaged parts with your own hands – in AEG machines, the replacement of these elements is the same as in other brands.

Difficult but possible: repair of old AEG washing machines

As a conclusion, let’s say that the repair of breakdowns on different brands of AEG washing machines (AEG 60060 SL, AEG 60060 TL, AEG OKO Lavamat 1270, etc.) is almost the same, or rather, it has to be repaired using the same algorithms.

If a bearing needs to be replaced on an AEG washing machine that has been in service for over a decade, then this indicates worn parts, and other components may need to be replaced. That is why it is not always possible to deal with the problem on your own: in some cases, it is still worth entrusting your equipment to a professional.

This video clearly shows what we did not describe in detail – the replacement of bearings in washing machines, including AEG models. It is better to see once to understand the algorithm.

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