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Can salon exfoliation be gentle? Do I need to prepare for this procedure and what to do after it is over? Let’s discuss.
What is light peeling
Mechanism of action
If we talk about mechanical peels, then the desquamation of dead cells of the stratum corneum occurs due to their mechanical separation from the total mass using abrasives of varying degrees of hardness. Quite often, mechanical peeling is combined with chemical peeling for greater efficiency and speed up the process.
Indications for use
Any peeling, even a light one, is a kind of return to the beginning from a clean slate. Together with the cells, many skin imperfections disappear or become less noticeable, such as:
post-acne;
unevenness and roughness;
dark spots;
wrinkles;
peeling.
The natural process of skin renewal is stimulated. And peeling, as a traumatic procedure, awakens her internal reserves, forcing her to intensively recover.
Efficiency
Peeling provides the skin with a new reserve of strength: young cells are much less vulnerable to negative external influences.
But we must understand that it will not be possible to limit ourselves to one procedure. And even if small wrinkles, acne marks, hyperpigmentation disappear, peeling does not guarantee that the problems will not return. For example, with insufficient protection from the sun, new age spots may appear.
How often can peeling be done?
“Most likely, the cosmetologist will recommend a course of procedures, its duration is dictated by a number of factors – from the composition that will be chosen for application to the weather,” explains Vichy medical expert Elena Eliseeva. And lists the details.
For oily or problematic skin, as well as for severe post-acne, a course of 4-6 chemical peeling procedures is carried out every 10-14 days. It is during this time that the skin has time to more or less recover.
With normal skin, if you just want to improve the complexion and give tone, 4-5 trips to a specialist are enough.
With dry, damaged and very dehydrated skin, the course is selected individually: usually the peeling solution is softer, and 2-3 procedures are enough.
Courses are recommended to repeat 1-2 times a year. And although light peeling is not forbidden in the summer, it is better to choose cloudy days. Avoid the sun and use products with the highest possible SPF.
Types of light peeling for the face
Glycolic
Glycolic (hydroxyacetic) acid is one of the most popular superficial chemical peels. It belongs to fruit (ANA) acids and with its help, depending on the concentration (from 5% to 70%), it is possible to carry out both light and medium (with the removal of the entire stratum corneum) peeling.
Since glycolic acid in low concentrations is considered quite safe, it is often the basis of cosmetic peels. The inclusion of such products in the beauty routine undoubtedly increases the effectiveness of home care.
However, the 3-10% that we see in home-based cosmetic peels certainly won’t give the same powerful effect as 30-70% in salon cosmetics. But this daily renewal of “small steps” does not require rehabilitation.
Coral
The active substance is flour from the corals of the Red Sea. Coral is interesting not only as an abrasive, it is distinguished by the richest mineral composition, so this method of exfoliation is of particular value. As a rule, fruit acids and enzymes are added to the composition of the coral peeling, which you will be offered in the salon, which provides a combined effect.
Coral peeling is a popular “chip” in cosmetology today. It is both an abrasive and a source of many beneficial substances for the skin.
At the same time, get ready: it will hurt during the procedure itself and even the first time after it. Recovery depends on the individual characteristics of the body and takes up to 7 days.
Salicylic
Here’s what salicylic acid does:
penetrates into the pores, cleanses and narrows them;
reduces oiliness of the skin, affecting the production of sebum;
has an antibacterial effect.
Salicylic peeling is recommended for oily skin and targeted to fight acne.
Garnier brand medical expert Marina Kamanina explains: “The concentration of salicylic acid is an individual criterion. For example, with oily problematic skin, its concentration is in the range of 15–20%, and the pH of the solution should be less than 3,2 and more than 2. If the main task of the cosmetologist is to even out the skin relief and fight post-acne, then the recommended parameters are somewhat different (concentration – from 25 to 30%, pH – 1,3-3).
Salicylic acid in its pure form is used only for medical reasons, and such issues are decided by the doctor on the basis of a comprehensive examination. In beauty salons, salicylic acid is softened with various fruit acids.
Enzyme
Like fruit acids, enzymes break the bonds between the cells of the stratum corneum, exfoliating them, leaving the skin fresh and soft.
The most popular enzymes in cosmetics are from exotic fruits.
Retinoic (yellow)
The main component is retinoic acid. It is she who gives the composition a yellow color, and the procedure itself stimulates the growth and proliferation of keratinocytes, accelerates cell renewal.
The main effects of retinoic peeling:
rejuvenation;
correction of hyperpigmentation.
How is a light chemical peel done?
Preparation for peeling
Smart planning. Keep in mind: the procedure has a rehabilitation period, which, even in the case of a light chemical peel, can be several days. It is also necessary to provide protection from the sun and severe frosts.
A few days before peeling in the salon, use an exfoliating lotion at home. Moreover, in the process of preparation, give preference to products with fruit acids, not abrasives.
Don’t Forget Moisturizingso that the skin recovers better after stress and traumatic effects.
Sun protection It will also help save resources for recovery and reduce stress.
There should be no inflammation or wounds on the skin.
Description of the procedure
In the beautician’s office, you will be laid on a couch, put on a special cap so that your hair does not interfere and does not turn yellow, for example, in the case of retinoic peeling.
Then – make-up removal and cleansing.
Then the doctor will apply the composition, avoiding the area around the eyes. Relax and take a nap, most likely, will not work: the solution can pinch and tingle (especially with coral peeling).
After some time, the composition will be removed. In the case of acid peeling, a special reagent will be added that neutralizes the action of the acid.
Next – a soothing mask, after which the doctor will announce recommendations for further skin care.
Retinoic and retinol peelings (there is practically no difference between them) are called “yellow” for a reason.
Post-peel care
Thorough hydration.
UV protection with SPF 50.
Micellar cleansing.
Care with products containing vitamins B3 and B5 – they soothe the skin and promote its healing.
Safety measures
Unequivocal contraindications for salon peels, even light ones, look like this:
pregnancy,
lactation,
skin damage,
infections,
ultraviolet exposure (i.e. recent sunburn).
But what if you have sensitive skin? Alexander Prokofiev, medical expert at La Roche-Posay, explains: “Peeling for sensitive skin can be done, but you need to choose it with a beautician. The doctor will assess the condition of the epidermis, the presence and severity of rosacea and suggest a suitable combination of acids.
From fruit acids can be used: lactic, citric, glycolic. Do not forget about BHA-acid – salicylic.
Funds overview
Peeling care cosmetics are used to prepare for salon peeling.
Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight, SkinCeuticals contains glycolic (10%) and phytic acids, which have a good exfoliating effect. The tool softens the skin, reduces wrinkles, gives radiance. First, the cream is used every other day, and then daily.
Night peeling Idéalia, Vichy includes glycolic acid (4%), antioxidant blueberry extract – all components help to refresh the skin, give radiance and get rid of imperfections.
Nightly Refining Micro-Peel Concentrate, Kiehl’s is an example of mechanical peeling combined with fruit acids. Stimulates skin renewal thanks to extracts of lemon, orange, blueberry, sugar cane (contains glycolic acid), quinoa husk.
Overview of post-peel care products
Care that accelerates the restoration of the skin barrier, Cicaplast Gel B5, La Roche-Posay with hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5, madecassoside and thermal water designed for skin care after aesthetic procedures.
Serum for intensive moisturizing with an extract of thermal plankton Aquasource Deep Serum, Biotherm – 35 nutrients that thermal plankton contains make the serum literally “water of life”. The skin is saturated with moisture and recovers faster.
Hydrogel mask Advanced Génifique Hydrogel Melting Mask, Lancôme soothes and moisturizes the skin, stimulates recovery due to the complex of probiotics in the composition.
Sunscreen Dry Face Spray “Expert Protection” Ambre Solaire, SPF 50, Garnier easy to use, instantly absorbed, leaves no residue and sticky feeling. Light texture combined with a high degree of protection is especially important during the recovery period after peeling.
High protection sunscreen with moisturizing action Ultra Facial Defense, SPF 50, SkinCeuticals protects the skin at the cellular level, enriched with antioxidants.