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Active, natural or biocollagen – under whatever name it occurs – is not able to penetrate the skin. All collagen preparations intended to eliminate stretch marks or prevent aging do not have such an effect. Unfortunately, collagen is no exception. Many substances that are advertised as miraculous ingredients in creams or ointments are unable to penetrate the epidermal barrier.
The skin protects our body against the penetration of various undesirable substances. The horny layer with a thickness of about 1/100 of a millimeter, contrary to appearances, is a very effective barrier. It is a genius structure made of flattened cells consisting mainly of impermeable proteins, which are stuck together with a fatty binder. There are substances that manage to overcome this barrier, but many are unable to penetrate it.
The effect of collagen on the skin
Collagen is one of the proteins that build our skin. He is responsible for its flexibility. As a result of aging, we lose this valuable substance, which makes the skin lose its firmness. Many advertisements for cosmetic preparations boast that they contain the elixir of beauty and health, i.e. collagen.
– Maybe they do – says prof. Jacek Arct, rector of the Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care. “But what if it doesn’t penetrate the skin anyway?”
The professor explains that, for example, the intensely touted fish collagen is nothing more than a surface preparation that leaves a moisturizing layer.
Hyaluronic acid only in injections
Recently fashionable hyaluronic acid, which binds water and affects the condition of the skin – unfortunately, it also does not penetrate the epidermis. There is an abundance of hyaluronic acid in young skin, which guarantees its elasticity and lack of wrinkles. Its quantity decreases with age.
– Of course, it can be delivered, but only by injection, because its particles are too large to penetrate the protective layer of the skin – explains Prof. Arct. Like collagen, it creates a moisturizing film on the skin’s surface. Meanwhile, shop shelves are full of preparations with hyaluronic acid.
It turns out to be just an advertising slogan. Providing our skin with hyaluronic acid is possible only in the office of an aesthetic medicine doctor who can administer it with a syringe.
The effect of vitamin C on the skin
Pure vitamin C does not penetrate the skin, and what’s more, it is unstable and simply decomposes in contact with air. There is no point in rubbing pure vitamin C preparations into the skin. We can introduce it deep into the skin only if it is combined with fat, for example, closed in liposomes, that is small fatty balls.
At the Department of Analytical Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, a dozen or so cosmetic preparations containing pure vitamin C on the market were analyzed. During the research on cosmetics, 1 percent of vitamin C, tightly closed and set aside for a month. After opening the bottles, it turned out that there was not even a trace of this vitamin. – There are more stable forms of this vitamin, e.g. vitamin C palmitate (ascorbyl palmitate), vitamin C phosphate salt – explains prof. Arct and advises you to read the composition of the cosmetic preparations you buy.
To improve the condition of the skin, try collagen with vitamin C and Intenson hyaluronic acid.
Isoflavonoids in cosmetics
Creams containing the so-called plant hormones – isoflavonoids are also increasingly appearing on the cosmetics market.
– There are no scientific studies that would confirm the effectiveness of these ingredients in the fight against hormonal aging processes – says Prof. Arct. – When it comes to stem cells contained in creams, this is absolutely an advertising slogan – he adds.
Vitamin A or E, also coenzyme Q10, penetrates the skin.
– Low molecular weight biologically active peptides seem to be effective. They penetrate the skin and, among other things, can stimulate the production of collagen and elastin responsible for its elasticity and firmness.