Know your skin better

Dry, oily or combination. Modern cosmetology is no longer satisfied with this simplified classification. “Almost always we have to deal with combination skin – it is different in different parts of the face (not to mention the body), – explains dermatologist-cosmetologist Elena Fuflygina. “It’s much more accurate to talk about skin conditions: most often it has a tendency to a certain type, but its condition varies depending on the climate, season, lifestyle, hormonal changes, stress levels or health conditions.”

We are rapidly moving around the world, changing climatic and time zones, every day in winter we move from frost to a heated room and back, sometimes shrouded in tobacco smoke, sometimes we experience the power of modern air conditioners. Our skin is the first to face the direct effects of the environment, trying to adapt to it. And – let’s give her credit – she copes well with this difficult task.

But if she is tired, she immediately sends SOS signals: redness, a feeling of tightness, oily sheen or clogged pores … By learning to recognize her signs, we can determine what she really needs. And what products can we rely on to help our skin.

Read more:

• Drop metamorphoses

Do you think you have oily skin?

Oily sheen, acne, enlarged pores are considered the main signs of oily skin. The cream is not absorbed, the makeup does not hold, black dots (comedones) are formed … Sometimes this condition is more like an SOS signal or a consequence of too aggressive care. Deep cleansing deprives the epidermis of lipids that protect it and causes an increased secretion of skin fats (sebum). Bactericidal and alcohol-based acne treatments dehydrate the skin, reducing its barrier function, and as a result, a protective reaction occurs – increased production of sebum. To begin with, we must overcome the common misconception that oily skin does not need moisturizers: central heating and air conditioning make them really necessary. And if a greasy sheen appears in the central area of ​​uXNUMXbuXNUMXbthe face by the end of the working day, this is the norm.

As for micro-inflammations and acne, it is worth asking yourself a few questions about the possible causes of their appearance. Could it be related to the menstrual cycle? Or with stress? Or maybe it’s a reaction to the new cosmetics? Or do you have an uncontrollable habit of constantly touching your face? We do not think about it, but the objects of our environment (for example, a computer keyboard) are literally teeming with microorganisms … “The appearance of acne can also indicate problems in the body: rashes on the chin are often associated with the reproductive system, and in the forehead area – with the digestive system,” says Elena Fuflygin. “However, the problem of acne is very complex, and its solution often requires not only a dermatological, but also a holistic approach to the body, diet and lifestyle adjustments.”

Our advice

To begin with, let your skin just be – the way it is, to show its true nature, so that you can understand its constitutional features and immediate needs. Try to keep your skin care routine down to the basics—mild cleansing, non-alcoholic toner, moisturizer—and stick with it for at least two weeks. Eliminate factors that cause irritation and increase the secretion of the sebaceous glands: all mechanical influences, scrubs, aggressive cleansers. Resist the desire to deal with pimples or comedones on your own, entrust this to specialists – a cosmetologist, a dermatologist.

Do you think you have dry skin?

A feeling of tightness is often considered a sign of dry skin. And this is true … only if the excessive use of matting agents, as well as lime water, air conditioning, heating, aggressive external factors (wind, cold, ultraviolet rays), stress or air travel, did not cause severe dehydration of combination or oily skin. To determine the type (or rather, the degree of dryness / oiliness) of the skin, you can conduct a simple test. After washing, wait half an hour without applying any means to the skin: if the feeling of tightness has passed, it means that it has already restored its hydrolipidic layer and cannot be considered dry in any way. After a few more minutes, apply a piece of tissue paper or a special matting napkin (for example, Pore Minimizer, Clinique) to different areas of the face. Oil stains appeared only after application to the T-zone? So it’s combination skin. Was the paper soaked even after touching the cheekbones? This means that the skin is more likely to be oily (although it may be dehydrated and produce more sebum to compensate for the lack of moisture).

Really dry skin is very thin, rough, prone to flaking. She is also characterized by “gluttony”: she instantly absorbs the freshly applied cream. Or it causes the need to use the cream several times a day to maintain a feeling of comfort. “Dry skin is not only a natural feature, it can also be associated with other factors,” explains Elena Fuflygina. For example, taking antibiotics. Dry skin can also be caused by thyroid problems.”

Our advice

For those with dry skin, it is best to minimize the use of tap water for washing. Make-up remover milk or oil, non-alcohol tonic, or floral water are more suitable than facial cleanser. Be sure to pat your skin dry with a soft cotton cloth or paper towel. Be aware that self-tanners can dry out your skin. The same applies to the sun (or solarium) and some decorative cosmetics. For example, loose powder also dries out the epidermis if you use it every day. With this in mind, some leading brands have already found a way to include moisturizing ingredients in the powder formula (for example, DiorSkin Poudre Libre).

Do you think you have sensitive skin?

Spots, redness, visible capillaries, various inflammations, a thin and transparent epidermis, obvious irritation, a tingling sensation – many of us experience these symptoms of hypersensitivity from time to time. “Skin sensitivity can be due to several reasons,” explains Ekaterina Turubara, consultant dermatologist at Vichy. – Firstly, it may be an innate feature of the structure of the stratum corneum – in this case, resistance to external aggression is greatly reduced. Secondly, this may be due to the increased sensitivity of receptors located in the walls of blood vessels – in response to this or that irritation, the skin turns red. Hypersensitivity can also be of an immune nature – in this case, the skin is prone to allergic reactions. Unfortunately, the modern way of life itself (atmospheric pollution, sitting at the computer for many hours, dietary specifics) negatively affects the immune system and increases the likelihood of skin reactions. Some, faced with manifestations of skin sensitivity, begin to try various products with active ingredients on themselves, thus trying to solve the problem. This is exactly what is not recommended – the skin often needs only a little time and a minimum of irritants to restore balance.

Our advice

When cosmetic novelties saturated with active ingredients endlessly replace each other, and layers of decorative cosmetics of different brands are superimposed on one another, the skin refuses to perceive such informational chaos. How to choose the right skincare for sensitive skin? Sometimes it is enough to pass a sensitivity test, but a consultation with a dermatologist may be required. If we are talking about a violation of the barrier-protective function of the skin, you need to use creams that restore this protection (for example, Biotherm products with a Dermobiotique component that enhances skin immunity, or Aqualia Thermal from Vichy). If the sensitivity is due to changes in skin vascular tone, vasoactive agents (such as Rosaliac by La Roche-Posay) are suitable.

Cosmetics for skin prone to allergic reactions should contain a minimum amount of preservatives, alcohol, perfumes and other potential allergens. For such skin, any chemical and mechanical effects are contraindicated: peelings, microdermabrasion, etc. Care should be taken to use products containing essential oils, as well as high concentrations of any active ingredients (serums or concentrates). Try organic cosmetics from Weleda or Sanoflore.