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It is not highly valued by dermatologists, it has been significantly replaced by more modern means: gels, mousses, shower oil. But still, ordinary soap remains an old, proven friend, which since childhood gives us a feeling of cleanliness and freshness.
It glides over the skin, following the curves, bulges and hollows of our body, leaving a velvety trail and endowing the skin with a fragrance that only the closest people can smell. Despite the controversial reputation (kills germs, but dries the skin), soap remains the simplest and most natural personal care product, in demand by everyone – children, men, women. To do justice to its merits and to enjoy its use, we should say goodbye to the myths that surround it and learn how to choose the right variety correctly.
What are the differences between its types?
The word “soap” can refer to several different products. Traditional toilet soap is obtained in the process of saponification (saponification) of mineral-based animal or vegetable fats (soda or potassium carbonate). Softening (moisturizing) soap differs from the traditional content of nutrients (almond oil or shea butter), but they are contained in a limited amount – no more than 10%, otherwise it will lose its ability to foam. Liquid soap (not to be confused with cream or shower gel) is still soap. The difference is that it contains more water and a little more additives – sealing and anti-settling agents, dyes, flavors.
Dermatological soap, often referred to as “soap-free soap” or syndet (synthetic detergent), is made from synthetic soap substances. This kind of soap consists of a quarter of the actual synthetic detergent (synthetic detergent), and three-quarters of other compounds with certain beneficial properties (nutritious, antibacterial, etc.). Its foaming ability is weaker.
How does it act on the skin?
Traditional soap always tightens the skin a little. This is the basis for the widespread belief that it can damage the hydrolipidic film. Without denying this fact, it should be noted that the “drying effect” is enhanced by too hot water with a high calcium content. As a rule, normal skin restores the hydrolipidic film within half an hour, and the feeling of dryness disappears by itself. Therefore, if you do not have skin problems, then traditional soap is quite acceptable for hygienic body care. For sensitive skin – as well as for the face – you can use a special soap.
But soap with antibacterial components such as “triclosan” is not always suitable. “In my opinion, the use of soap containing bacteriostatics is certainly justified for washing hands only in special places, for example, for employees of clinics, kindergartens, catering,” says dermatologist Elena Fuflygina. “There is no reason to use such soap in everyday life, especially for washing the whole body: maintaining normal skin microflora is much more important here than sterility.”
The same goes for the idea of “maintaining acid-base balance”: according to experts, people tend to exaggerate the importance of this factor, following the lead of advertising. “Forget a little about the pH cult. An acidic or alkaline pH absolutely does not mean that the drug will irritate the skin, explains microbiologist Pierre Grascha*. – The pH level is not a sufficient indicator for choosing a soap, too many elements make up its formula (perfumes, surfactants, preservatives). For the most part, “neutral pH” has nothing to do with being harmless. On the other hand, our skin has an excellent buffering capacity: it can adjust its pH on its own.”
Does it wash cleaner than shower gel?
The detergents of traditional soaps are very strong – this gives an exceptional feeling of cleanliness. In addition, it naturally (that is, due to its formula) prevents the growth of bacteria and fungus. Soap, unlike shower products, does not leave any trace on the skin. Shower gels or creams, on the other hand, leave a thin film that allows you to keep the feeling of “moisturized skin” longer. The real feeling of absolute cleanliness gives us the use of an exfoliating washcloth or sisal mitt, but this is not always true, since a damp washcloth is a favorable environment for the development of microorganisms. Dry it thoroughly, machine wash it, change it every three months – this is the advice of dermatologists-hygienists.
Especially valuable is natural soap, which does not contain animal fats, but it contains up to 70% vegetable oils.
Is it more natural?
In general, this is true, since soap is one of the most ancient beauty products. Until now, we can find on sale soap of the simplest recipe, made according to traditional technology. Especially valuable is natural soap based on vegetable oils (marked “does not contain animal fats”). It is easy to distinguish by reading the label: it contains up to 70% vegetable oils. Among the list of ingredients on the package, the following names should appear: sodium palmate (palm oil), sodium cocoate (coconut oil) and sodium olivate (olive oil), aqua (water) and sodium hydroxide (sodium salts). It can also be recognized by its appearance: creamy, ocher or green, natural soap can have an uneven, opaque texture. Sometimes sesame seeds, crushed algae, or almond shells are added to enhance the exfoliating properties. Preference should be given to soap without fragrances and dyes – they do not affect the effectiveness of cleansing – and without preservatives.
How long is it kept?
The average lifespan of a 250g soap, based on one shower per day, is two months (for one person) and one month for a shower gel. Soap that quickly “melts”, exfoliates, loses its shape, is not a really good soap. Most likely, it contains too much water and was not dried long enough during manufacture. Cheap glycerin soap quickly swims away, and when buying it looks very attractive. A started bar of soap completely retains its properties for about twenty-four months. High-quality soap ages for a long time and is well stored without losing its properties for years.
Does perfumed soap irritate the skin?
Synthetic fragrances are said to be slightly more irritating to the skin than natural essences. However, with a tendency to allergies, any aromatic additives increase the risk of skin reactions. For normal skin, soap with the aroma of your favorite perfume is an unconditional and safe pleasure.
How often should you use exfoliating soap?
Like any exfoliating treatment, an exfoliating soap enriched with botanical or marine particles that “scrape” the skin to remove dead cells is used on the body two to three times a week. Not recommended for sensitive skin or in the presence of inflammation – as well as any other mechanical peeling.
* Pierre Gracha is the head of the French scientific laboratory DEB Group Ltd, which conducts large-scale research in the field of skin hygiene.