Installing an acrylic bath with your own hands: on the frame, legs, bricks, photo, video

Acrylic bathtubs have rather thin walls and require reliable support. Installing an acrylic bathtub is possible in several ways: using the factory frame that comes with the kit, or on bricks. There is also a combined option – when a frame is used, supporting the bottom in some places with bricks. This method is needed if the bottom turned out to be too thin and “plays” underfoot.

The frame or legs for an acrylic bathtub are sometimes included in the kit, sometimes in an expanded configuration. The difference between the legs and the frame is significant, and not only in price. Legs mounted on slats are attached only to the reinforced bottom, usually with two or four self-tapping screws. At the same time, the sides remain without support (below, photo on the left). The frame, most often, is more massive, made of a thicker profiled pipe (square section), has more support points. Part of the supports comes from the sides of the bath, the other part is attached to the bottom, propping it up (photo on the right).

Regardless of the type of frame, it must be attached to the bottom. To do this, holes are drilled in the bottom in the right places, into which self-tapping screws are then screwed. This moment is not to be feared. This is an acrylic bathtub installation technology. In places of fastening there are reinforcement plates. But, in order not to damage the bathtub, carefully read the instructions before starting installation, it contains the dimensions of the fasteners that can be used.

Installing an acrylic bath on a frame

For each bath, the frame is developed differently, therefore the assembly nuances are different for each case. Even for one company, for different models of the same form, the frames are different. They take into account the geometry of the bath, as well as the distribution of loads. Nevertheless, the order of work is general, as are some technical points.

We twist the frame

A frame is assembled on which the bottom rests. In some cases, it is welded and does not require assembly. The frame is laid on the bottom of the inverted tub until nothing is fixed. It is exposed exactly, as it must be attached.

• Washers with fasteners are installed on the racks. Racks are either profile pieces (square-section pipes) or metal rods with threads at both ends. They must be attached to the sides of the bath. Firms usually develop fasteners of their own form. The photo shows one of the options.
  

•  Racks are usually installed at the corners of the bath. In these places there are plates, there may be holes, or they may not be – you have to drill yourself. The number of racks depends on the shape of the bath, but not less than 4-5, and preferably 6-7 pieces. At first, the racks are simply assembled and placed in the places allotted to them (until we fix it).
  

• The second side of the racks is connected to the frame supporting the bottom. A threaded nut is mounted in the end of the rack, we screw the screw into it, connecting the frame and the rack.
  

• After installing the racks, with the help of bolts align the position of the frame. It should be located strictly horizontally, and the bottom should lie on it tightly, without gaps.

Fixing the bathtub to the frame

After the frame is level, it is screwed to the reinforced bottom of the acrylic bath. It is necessary to use self-tapping screws of the recommended length, which are included with the frame.

• The next step in installing an acrylic bath is to set up and fix the racks. They have already been adjusted in height, now we need to set them vertically (we control the building level on both sides or check the accuracy of the plumb line). The exposed racks are “sit down” on self-tapping screws. The length of the fasteners is indicated in the instructions for each bath, but usually they are less than those that fixed the bottom.
• Next, install the legs on the frame.
  • On the side where there will be no screen, a nut is screwed onto the leg pin, after which they are inserted into the holes in the frame (hanging on this nut), fixed to the frame with another nut. The result is a height-adjustable design – by tightening the nuts, you can set the bath to the desired position.
    

    

  • The assembly of the legs from the side of the screen is different. The nut is screwed on, two large washers are installed, a stop for the screen (L-shaped plate) is inserted between them, the second nut is screwed. We received an emphasis for the screen adjustable in length and height. Then another nut is screwed on – the support nut – and the legs can be placed on the frame.
    

    

    

Screen mounting

This is not quite the installation of an acrylic bath, but this stage is rarely dispensed with: we install the screen. If you bought this option, the kit comes with plates that will support it. They are placed along the edges and in the middle. After attaching the screen and adjusting the stops on the legs, fix them in the desired position. Then, on the bath and the screen, the places where the plates need to be fixed are marked, then holes are drilled for the fasteners and the screen is fixed.

• Next, you need to install fasteners for the acrylic bath to the walls. These are curved plates for which the sides cling. We move the bath installed and leveled to the wall, mark where the sides will be, put the plates so that their upper edge is 3-4 mm below the mark. They are fastened to dowels by drilling holes in the walls for them.
  

  

• During installation, the bathtub is put on the boards on the screwed plates. Having installed, we check whether it stands exactly, if necessary, adjust the height with the legs. Next, we connect the drain and the last stage – we fasten the screen to the plates installed on the side. At the bottom, it simply rests against the exposed plates. Acrylic bathtub installation completed.

Next, it will be necessary to make the junction of the sides of the bathtub with the wall airtight, but more on that below, since this technology will be the same for any installation method.

The procedure for mounting an acrylic bathtub on legs

Assembling an acrylic bathtub with legs is much easier and faster – the design is elementary. The set includes two planks, four legs with pins, fixing an acrylic bathtub to the wall, a number of nuts and self-tapping screws.

Marking and assembly of the frame

In an acrylic bathtub with legs, the frame is two planks that are attached to the bottom. These bars come with adjustable legs. The task is to screw the planks evenly, install the legs and level the entire structure. Not too difficult.

Find the middle of the mounting strips and the bottom of the bath, put marks. Aligning the marks of the middle, two mounting strips lay a non-inverted bathtub, stepping back a little from the edge of the reinforcing plate (3-4 cm), install the strips. With a pencil or marker, mark the installation locations of the fasteners (there are holes in the planks).

According to the marks, holes are drilled to a depth of about 1 cm (you can stick colored tape on the drill to make it easier to control the depth). The drill diameter is selected 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screws (indicated in the instructions or can be measured). After installing the strips and aligning the holes, we fasten them to the self-tapping screws (included).

We put the legs

The next step is to install the legs. They are assembled in the same way as in the previous version: one lock nut is screwed on, the rod is inserted into the hole on the mounted bar, fixed with another nut. An additional nut is needed on the legs on the screen mounting side (pictured).

Next, turn the bath over, expose it in a horizontal plane, twisting the legs. The position is controlled by the building level. Then you need to install a mount on the walls, with the help of which the board is fixed to the walls.

The bath, set in terms of level and height, is put in place, we note where the sides end. We take the mounting plate, apply it to the mark so that its upper edge is 3-4 mm lower, mark the hole for the fasteners. The number of fasteners is different – one or two dowels, as well as the number of fixing plates on the wall (one or two on the wall, depending on the dimensions). We drill holes, insert plastic plugs from dowels, put clamps, fasten.

Now you can install an acrylic bath – we raise it so that the sides are higher than the plates installed on the wall. We lower, pressing the sides against the wall, they cling to the fixing plates. Installation of an acrylic bathtub on legs is completed. Next – connect the drain and you can use it.

The assembly of such an acrylic bath takes a little time. But the construction is very flimsy. Not every adult feels confident. The bottom bends, the legs slide on the tile. Pleasure is below average.

There is also a combined installation option. This is when put on legs and bricks is shown in the next video. After assembly, two bricks are laid on the mortar, a significant layer of mortar is laid on top (it must be kneaded with low plasticity, adding a minimum of water). When you put the bath in place, part of the solution is squeezed out, it is carefully picked up, the edges of the remaining part are corrected. The bath is loaded (it can be filled with water) and left for several days – so that the solution grabs.

We put on bricks

Installation on bricks requires accuracy and accuracy – it is necessary to set the support evenly so that the sides of the bath are in a horizontal plane.

They usually put on two or three rows of bricks laid on the bed (on the wide part). The number of bricks depends on the placement of the sewer outlet. A thin layer of mortar is laid between the bricks. The bath is placed on bricks, the horizontalness of the sides is checked, if necessary, corrected by changing the thickness of the solution between the bricks (we do not impose anything on the upper ones yet).

Having exposed, we mark on the wall at what level the sides are. At this mark, a corner is attached that will support the sides of the bath. It is better to take an aluminum corner, the width of the shelf is 3 cm, the thickness is 2-3 mm.

To give the base an aesthetic look, you can wrap them with a plaster mesh, plaster. In fact, plaster also reduces the hygroscopicity of red brick, extending the life of the support. So this step is not to be skipped.

Having bent the paint grid, a solid layer of cement-sand mortar is applied to the tops of the bricks. A solid layer of sanitary silicone is applied to the corner, after which a bath is installed. We move it to the wall evenly so that the gaps between the side and the wall are even.

We select the extruded silicone, forming a beautiful seam. You can smooth it out with a teaspoon. If you lead it without tearing your hand from edge to edge, you get an even and smooth seam. Then we remove the extruded solution. We remove the silicone earlier – it “grabs” faster. The solution must be picked up no later than 20-30 minutes after laying, so we also do not tighten it.

If the silicone was not enough and it did not squeeze out, it’s not scary. We form a seam by filling the gap with silicone from above. This completes the installation of the acrylic bathtub on the bricks. Next – connecting the siphon and finishing, and this is not entirely relevant to this topic.

Sealing the junction of the bath and the wall

No matter how tightly you put the bathtub against the wall, the gap still remains. With acrylics, the problem is complicated by the fact that their sides in the middle sag a little inward. Therefore, simply sealing the gap with silicone will not work. Additional funds are needed.

The easiest way to fix the tape is that it is sold in rolls. One is enough for sealing from three sides. Shelf width 20 mm and 30 mm. The tape is rolled out along the edge of the bath, fixed to the silicone.

There are also various corners for the bath. They are made of plastic, and the edges are rubberized – so that the joint is tighter and the seams between the tiles do not flow. The profiles and shape of the corners are different. There are those that are mounted on top of the tile, there are those that run under it. And they can be of different shapes and colors.

Regardless of the shape, they are installed in the same way: in the corners, the lower parts are cut at an angle of 45 °. The quality of the joint is checked. Then the surface of the wall, side and corner is degreased (preferably with alcohol), silicone is applied, on which the corner is installed. Everything is left for the time required for the polymerization of the sealant (indicated on the tube). After that, you can use the bathroom.

In the case of acrylic bathtubs, there is one caveat: before applying the sealant, they are filled with water, and in this state the composition is left to polymerize. Otherwise, when water is collected and the load on the sides increases, microcracks will appear on it, into which water will flow.

A few words about which sealant is better to use when sealing the junction of the bath and the wall. The best option is a sealant for aquariums. It is no less durable than plumbing, but it has some additives, thanks to which it does not get moldy, does not change color and does not bloom.