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Do not dare to change your usual cleanser to a hydrophilic oil? We will try to dispel your doubts with reason and help you choose the cleansing oil that is right for you.
What is a hydrophilic oil cleanser
The beauty of this product lies in its versatility – you can simultaneously remove makeup and wash your face.
Hydrophilic oil was created 50 years ago by make-up artist Shu Uemura for models who had to remove complex multi-layered makeup several times a day, which negatively affected the condition of the skin. It needed to be moisturized and soothed for a long time before applying a new batch of make-up.
Shu Uemura oil, launched in 1967.
I had to invent a paradoxical product: oil, which, as it should, quickly, without friction and effort, dissolves all fat-containing contaminants (make-up, sebum), and then just as easily washed off with water.
Operating principle
As you know, oil is a hydrophobic substance, that is, it does not mix with water. However, cosmetics manufacturers have found a way to make friends between these two substances, creating an oil formula that, upon contact with H2O, turns into an emulsion, and then rinses off with water without any problems.
Features of composition
Hydrophilic oil always consists of two fundamental components:
oils – usually a mixture of oils, sometimes with the addition of lipid components (vitamin E, squalane, fatty acids), which dissolve and absorb pollution;
an emulsifier that acts as a binder between oil and water molecules, which is why the product is so easily washed off the skin.
The composition can be enriched with a variety of essential oils, plant extracts, enzymes, vitamins.
The formula of cleansing oils is enriched with plant extracts.
Benefits of hydrophilic oils
Any oil has the ability to dissolve fat-soluble impurities and sebum. By the way, thanks to this feature, vegetable oils, in particular olive oil, have been used to cleanse the skin since ancient times.
However, pure vegetable oils, including the highest quality, first cold pressed, have a number of significant drawbacks:
heavy texture, which is far from ideally distributed over the face;
high levels of fat content – a high content of triglycerides may not be liked by oily skin and cause blockage of pores;
the greasy film that they leave after washing off does not bode well for skin prone to rashes.
Hydrophilic oils are deprived of these shortcomings. But they have a lot of advantages:
light texture that glides freely on the skin;
quickly capture and dissolve makeup, even waterproof, without friction and the risk of injuring the skin;
it can be used for massage.
usually has a pleasant aroma;
rinses off with water without residue
softens the skin and prevents the feeling of dryness after washing;
suits everyone.
Review of the best hydrophilic oils
On this list, you’ll find Healthy-Food’s best cleansing oils for all skin types, including oily skin.
Foaming make-up remover Biosource Total Renew Oil, Biotherm
When in contact with water, it does not turn into milk, but into a light foam. In the composition – extracts of brown algae and thermal plankton, vitamin E, as well as vegetable oils of passion fruit, apricot, corn and rice bran.
Gel oil for removing makeup and cleansing the skin of the face Absolue, Lancôme
Lancôme offers a luxurious gel formula that transforms into an oil on the skin and into a gentle fluid when exposed to water, rinsing off without residue, leaving the skin not only clean, but also soft, smooth, without a hint of dryness. In the composition, of course, the extract of the brand’s favorite flower – roses.
Oil for removing makeup and cleansing the skin of the face Midnight Recovery Botanical Cleansing Oil, Kiehl’s
Inspired by the famous skincare night oil, this treatment also contains evening primrose oil and lavender essential oil. You will not find mineral oils in the list of ingredients, but squalane, obtained from olives and perfectly softening the skin, is there and occupies not the last place.
How to choose a hydrophilic oil for the face
You don’t have to be a super expert to find the “right” cleansing oil, as the modern cleansing oil category is full of new products for all skin types and conditions, including oily, combination, dull, dry, and aging. Read the information on the label – and you will not go wrong with the choice. Not sure what type your skin is? Take our test.
For oily and combination skin
In the composition of such oils, additional ingredients are introduced, mainly plant extracts with a slight exfoliating effect, enzymes. Oils for oily skin have a lighter texture and are often refreshing.
For normal skin
For problem-free skin, any cleansing oil will do. It remains only to choose the flavor and manufacturer.
For dry skin
The first contender for cleansing with cosmetic oil is dry skin, for which it is difficult to find a cleanser that does not provoke dryness and tightness. Choose universal classic oils, as well as products labeled “anti-aging” and “antioxidant”. Read about why water dries rather than moisturizes the skin.
The composition of cleansing oils is adapted for different skin types.
For sensitive skin
Individual reactions are unpredictable. Oils are considered a gentle treatment, but we advise you to carefully and consciously choose a product – especially for sensitive skin – and test the product on your hand before applying it to your face.
For problem skin
Choose oil for oily and combination skin. If it seems to you that after washing off the oil, the skin is still not clean enough and there is a feeling of a film on the face, use a tonic for problem skin, which will complete the cleansing and at the same time prevent greasy shine.
How to use hydrophilic makeup remover oil
Using cleansing oil is very easy, but there are a few caveats:
apply the oil with your hands and only on dry skin;
carefully distribute the product all over the face in circular motions from the center to the periphery;
then, with your fingers lightly moistened with water, massage your face again in the same circular motion to emulsify the oil;
rinse with plenty of water.
Can hydrophilic oil replace other cleansers?
Today, there is such a variety of cleansing oils with additional functionality that our answer will be more likely in the affirmative: a cleansing oil can become your only and favorite means for removing make-up and washing.
Consider possible “rivals”.
Micellar water – yes, oil, like micelles, perfectly copes with pollution, including fat-containing ones (sebum, decorative cosmetics).
Makeup remover milk – yes, oil can replace it if it’s only about makeup removal (face, lips, eyes), however, if you prefer waterless cleansing, hydrophilic oil will not work for you, as it needs to be washed off.
Gels and foams – yes, if you like to wash your face with foams, you can switch to hydrophilic oil, there are foaming formulas and they are in our review.
Scrubs – Some oils have exfoliating ingredients, mostly enzymes, that provide very light exfoliation. But for more intensive exfoliation (which is achieved with the help of scrub particles), the cleansing oil is not capable of. That is, you cannot replace scrub with hydrophilic oil.
Is it possible to make hydrophilic oil with your own hands?
As they say, nothing is impossible for a person with intelligence and, we add, with an irrepressible passion for homemade cosmetics.
The recipe is simple: the vegetable oil of your choice and the emulsifier are mixed in a ratio of 9 to 1. The composition is enriched with essential oils depending on the type of skin. We have articles dedicated to oils:
for oily skin;
for dry skin;
with anti-aging effect.
If you decide to cook yourself, keep in mind that you will have to take care of finding quality ingredients – fresh virgin oils, as well as experimenting with proportions. It is unlikely that at home it will be possible to repeat the composition of the finished product from professionals with a stable formula tested for effectiveness and safety.
But why not try if you have a burning desire. If you manage to make a decent hydrophilic oil at home, please share your impressions and details.