Hyaluronic acid: properties and uses

After reading this article, you will no longer doubt the benefits of hyaluronic acid for the face. And at the same time, you will find out who discovered it and when, how it is obtained and how to use products based on this substance in order to provide the skin with maximum comfort and hydration.

What is Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is the undisputed bestseller in the cosmetic market. Now there is a real boom in funds with it. You can find it in a variety of products – from serums to fillers. We find out what is the secret of the popularity of this component.

History of discovery

The first molecule of hyaluronic acid was obtained by the German biochemist Karl Mayer in 1934. The name comes from the Greek “hyalos” (Greek hyalos – “vitreous”, since the molecule was isolated from the vitreous body of a bull’s eye) and “uronic acid”.

Initially, it is a substance of animal origin: it was extracted from the combs of roosters and the cartilage of cattle. Not only was the method unethical, but it had another significant drawback: insufficient purification provoked an allergy to animal protein. In modern production, a synthesized analogue of HA is used.

Features

Despite its name, it is not an acid in the usual sense: unlike, for example, salicylic acid, it is not capable of dissolving or exfoliating. This is a type of polysaccharides that are part of the connective tissues of the joints. Due to the structure and large molecular weight, its molecules are able to hold an amount of water that is much greater than their own weight.

Hyaluronic acid is one of the important components of the intercellular substance of the deep layers of the skin. In our body, it retains water in the cells, and its deficiency leads to dryness, wrinkling and sagging tissues.

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Application of hyaluronic acid

A few years ago, this substance was known only to doctors and was used in highly specialized areas. But things have changed since then, and hyaluronic acid (HA) is becoming more and more widely used. Only in the USA in 2015, 2,4 million injections of fillers based on it were made – and this is the data for only one country. And of course, the production of cosmetics based on HA is growing.

hyaluronic acid

In medicine

For the first time, hyaluronic acid was included in the composition of a medical preparation in the 1970s. Healon was developed by Pharmacia and used in eye surgery. HA is still relevant in eye tissue transplantation and cataract treatment. HA injections into the joints are recommended in the treatment of arthritis. Now there is a surge in the popularity of dietary supplements with its content.

In cosmetology

Hyaluronic acid entered the beauty industry in the 1980s and is now used in cosmetics as a moisturizing component, and in injectable cosmetology as part of fillers to smooth wrinkles and add volume to lips and cheekbones.

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Hyaluronic acid properties

In cosmetology, two main functions of this substance are in demand.

humidification

Beauty enthusiasts love hyaluronic acid for its ability to absorb and store large amounts of water like a sponge. One molecule of HA can hold up to 1000 times its own weight in water. Cosmetic products with HA form a moisture-retaining barrier in the surface layers of the epidermis, softening and smoothing the skin.

There is simply no such thing as a lot of hyaluronic acid!

Anti-aging effect

According to studies by European dermatologists, gels based on hyaluronic acid help to smooth wrinkles and creases, increase skin elasticity and firmness.

One of the effective cosmetic procedures that can effectively stimulate the synthesis of important components in the skin is biorevitalization with hyaluronic acid. Injections are carried out pointwise, in the places most susceptible to age-related changes – the area of ​​​​nasolabial folds, forehead, eyes, neck. The introduction of artificial HA triggers its own mechanisms for the production of this substance in the skin, thereby prolonging the rejuvenating effect.

It is also possible to achieve an effect close to aesthetic procedures with the help of cosmetic products: creams, masks, patches and serums. Modern technologies allow to increase the penetration of hyaluronic acid into the deeper layers of the skin.

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How to properly apply cosmetics with hyaluronic acid

In order for products containing hyaluronic acid to give the most pronounced result, a number of points must be taken into account.

  1. Of the variety of products with hyaluronic acid, serums are considered to be the most effective due to the increased content of active ingredients. Acquaintance with this curious component is better to start with them. Creams and lotions with HA are also effective, but in the composition of mascara and lipsticks, this is rather a pleasant bonus.

  2. Apply HA products only to clean, damp skin (after lightly towel-drying) for long-lasting hydration. If such serums-creams-lotions are distributed over thoroughly dried skin, then hyaluronic acid molecules can begin to draw moisture reserves from the cells of the dermis, which will lead to the opposite effect – dehydration of the skin.

  3. Serums and tonics with HA are not recommended for solo use – cover them with a moisturizer, especially in dry climates.

hyaluronic acid

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Restrictions on use

Being a substance related to the skin, hyaluronic acid is safe for it in the composition of fillers and cosmetics: even a synthesized analogue is perceived positively by our body. However, this does not exclude the possibility of individual intolerance to this substance.

Allergy to HA is quite rare, but if redness or swelling appears after using products with this ingredient, stop using the product and consult a cosmetologist. When HA is injected, an allergic reaction can be caused not by the acid itself, but by other components in the filler. In this case, it is safer to use creams or serums with HA. If hyaluronate itself is the cause of the negative reaction, choose products with other moisturizers, such as glycerin and urea, which have already proven to be effective moisturizing and softening ingredients.

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Life hacks for use

  • Hyaluronic acid facials work best in humid climates. Going to the sea, be sure to bring a serum or lotion with HA. During the heating season, be sure to alternate such products with nourishing creams.

  • Apply hyaluronic lotions and serums on the skin of the lips under a cream with a denser texture. This technique will help not only soften and moisturize the lips, but also give them extra volume.

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Funds rating

Thanks to new technologies that allow the production of HA of different molecular weights, its application is possible in different categories of beauty products.

It is very convenient that you can enhance moisturizing care by using make-up enriched with hyaluronic acid in addition to the main care.

Hyaluron Expert SPF 20 Day Face Cream + Alliance Perfect Foundation, L’Oréal Paris — a wonderful duo for well-groomed, hydrated, supple and radiant skin.

Creams with hyaluronic acid

Hydra Zen Soothing Cream, SPF 15, Lancôme

The product with hyaluronic acid, ceramides, extracts of French rose, moringa, Chinese peony actively moisturizes, retains moisture in the skin, soothes the skin and gives comfort.

Rich cream Aqualia Thermal, Vichy

Instantly moisturizes the skin, smoothes fine mimic wrinkles due to hyaluronic acid, Vichy thermal water, aquabioril.

Revitalift Eye Cream Filler [HA], L’Oréal Paris

Fills wrinkles, reduces bags under the eyes, corrects the relief of the lacrimal cavities.

Masks with hyaluronic acid

Sheet mask “Moisturizing + Aquabomb”, Garnier

Intensively moisturizes even dehydrated skin, restores complexion and protective forces. The composition of the impregnation includes hyaluronic acid, glycerin, pomegranate extract.

Night moisturizing mask Ultra Facial Overnight Hydrating Mask, Kiehl’s

Softens, moisturizes, restores the hydrolipidic mantle, and due to the antioxidant action enhances the nighttime regeneration processes in the skin. Contains squalane, shea butter, urea, imperata and ophiopogon extract, antarcticin.

Fabric face mask Aqua Bounce Flash Mask, Biotherm

Provides instant hydration as it is enriched with Life Plankton water and hyaluronic acid. Suitable for sensitive skin.

Serums with hyaluronic acid

Corrective Serum HA Intensifier, SkinCeuticals

Increases the content of hyaluronic acid in the skin at different levels, maintains the level of moisture. It contains three types of hyaluronic acid, a 10% proxylan complex, 2% dipotassium glycyrrhizate and purple rice extract.

Regenerating serum “Revitalift Laser X3”, L’Oréal Paris

Smoothes wrinkles, firms the skin with fragmented hyaluronic acid and 3% proxylan.

Serum Hyalu B5, La Roche-Posay

Intensively moisturizes, smoothes wrinkles, reduces skin sensitivity, stimulates collagen synthesis, since it contains high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5 (panthenol), madecassoside.

You can read more about ingredients, manufacturing processes, quality and safety requirements here.

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