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Atlant washing machines are loved by users for their good technical characteristics, modern design and affordable price category. Unfortunately, in many respects they cannot compete with foreign counterparts, especially when it comes to durability.
It is often easier to entrust the repair of the washing machine to a good master, but in some cases it is possible to repair Atlant washing machines with your own hands.
In this article, you will learn about typical breakdowns, fault codes, as well as how to disassemble the Atlant washing machine and carry out repairs on your own.
Classification of typical breakdowns of Atlant machines
The occurrence of a particular malfunction of the user is notified by characteristic symptoms that can be noticed at one of the stages of the operation of the machine – during washing, water collection, rinsing or spinning. Workshops often receive complaints about such breakdowns of washing machines automatic brand Atlant:
- Washing machine Atlant does not turn on. This can be caused by a damaged outlet or wiring. A broken start button is another indicator of failure. The failure of the electronic controller is not ruled out.
- Linen is not wrung out. Taking out very wet laundry from the drum, one can judge that the engine has failed or the contacts on it have oxidized. To provoke a breakdown can, as in the case above, a breakdown of the board. If the spin does not start at all, then the laundry in the drum could become tangled in one lump, which caused an imbalance (try to load the drum with things of the same size, as a pile of things of different sizes are perfectly intertwined with each other, provoking an imbalance in the drum).
- The water stays in the tank and does not drain. You need to look for the cause in the drain pump (pump) or drain hose, which could become clogged over the years of service.
- The machine rumbles when spinning, vibrates and shifts. This “inadequate behavior” requires the replacement of bearings.
- On all modes, the wash is in cold water. If the water does not heat up, most often this is caused by a burnt-out heating element, less often – a failure of the temperature sensor or controller.
- The machine is running. It all depends on WHERE it flows: at the bottom of the machine, from the hatch or in the powder cassette. Depending on the location, replacement of parts is required: waste water drain hose, branch pipes, seals or cuffs.
Most breakdowns are provoked by elementary reasons:
- Foreign objects in the drum (filter, drain hose, pump).
- Excessive powder, rinse aid and other detergents.
- Too hard water.
- Premature wear of parts.
- Violation of the operating rules specified in the instructions for the Atlant washing machine and others.
How to find out a breakdown: Atlant error codes
If error codes (Sel, None, F2, F3, F4, F5, F6, F7, F8, F9, F10, F12, F13, F14 or F15) are displayed on the control panel screen, then the machine is signaling you about a breakdown. The reasons for these failures are briefly disclosed in the table:
Code | transcript |
Salt | Interface module selector broken. This item needs to be replaced. |
none | Increased foaming. This can be caused by three reasons:
In this case, it is necessary to reduce the amount of powder, change the agent or wash in other modes. |
F2 | Thermal sensor failure. The sensor itself could “fly”, contacts or wires could fail. May indicate a breakdown of the heating element. |
F3 | Failure of the thermoelectric heater (heater). The heating element needs to be replaced. |
F4 | Damage to the drain pump (drain pump). This breakdown has a lot of reasons: blockage or incorrect installation of the waste water drain hose, clogged coupling, pump failure, malfunction of the electronics. Repair depends on the diagnostic results. You may need to change the drain pump. |
F5 | The filling valve is the cause of the breakdown. The hose could be clogged or broken. Also, an error occurs when the pressure in the water supply system is low or the control module breaks down. Self-repair or in the workshop – it depends on the nature of the identified breakdown. |
F6 | Failure in the electric motor. The motor must be replaced with a new one. |
F7 | Electrical breakdowns. In some cases, it is enough to replace the noise filter, test whether there is voltage in the mains, or replace the electronic board. |
F8 | Overflow of water in the tank. Culprits: water level sensor (pressure switch), filling valve, wiring that could burn out or contacts that oxidized due to high humidity. Depressurization of the cylinder or malfunction of the controller are also quite possible reasons. |
F9 | Tachometer failure. If you started a repair at home, you will have to check the wiring and contacts with a tester, and maybe replace the engine. A broken controller can also mean an F9 error, but replacing the module yourself is a difficult task. |
F10 | Blocking failure, which is also associated with a broken board. |
F12 | Triat motor failure. Requires replacement engine or controller. |
F13 | Means a whole complex of breakdowns. First you need to check the contacts and wiring, and if the reason for the breakdown of the module is established, it is worth calling a specialist. |
F14 | Software failure. It is recommended to restart the program. In severe cases, repair or replacement of the board is necessary. |
F15 | The machine is running. This is caused by a violation of the tightness of the drum, wear of the cuff, drain hose, pipes or coupling. It is easier to determine the malfunction by localizing the place of the leak. |
by | Broken lock. Maybe you didn’t lock the hatch properly. Also, an error occurs if the wires come off or the board burns out. |
Important! Self-diagnosis of SM Atlant is possible not only in models with an electronic display. In electromechanical models, an error is signaled by indicators flashing in a certain sequence or combination.
Atlant machine breakdowns: we repair it ourselves
Malfunctions of Atlant washing machines and their elimination – your main problem today? Let’s take a look at common failures one by one.
SMA Atlant won’t start
If you could not turn on the washer, then start by checking the outlet, using any other serviceable electrical appliance for this.
If the outlet is working, then proceed to check the surge protector and controller. The entire electrical component of the machine is hidden under the top cover – it is easy to remove it: just unscrew 2 bolts.
Having found an electrician, check the wiring and terminals – you will notice oxidized or burnt components with the naked eye. Having carefully examined everything, arm yourself with a tester and ring the surge protector and cable. If the cable is broken, change it. Often stores offer a cable already complete with a surge protector – if you need to replace both parts, you will save a lot.
If you understand that the matter is not in the electrician, but in the electronics, which is also confirmed by the idle start button of the washer, be prepared for the fact that repairs on your own in this case are almost impossible. You need a good knowledge of not only the electrical circuit of the Atlant washing machine, but also electronics. It is better to trust the master – repairs can be much cheaper than eliminating the consequences after self-intervention in electronics.
TEN: self-check and replacement
There is a partial disassembly of the Atlant washing machine. To find the heating element, check it and replace it, follow this scenario:
- Remove the back panel.
- Find the heating element (usually located under the drum). First you need the water heater terminals.
- Remove all wires. Remove the terminals from the temperature sensor, if in your case it is built into the heating element itself. In certain models of washing machines, the temperature sensor is not built into the heating element and is installed near it.
- Taking the necessary tool, gradually unscrew the bolt in the center of the shank. Turn the nut just a couple of turns to the left. After that, try to direct it inside the case.
Important! In SMA Atlant, it is not always easy to remove the heating element due to damage to the rubber seal. Be patient, be careful.
- Take a slotted screwdriver (negative) and pry the heater by the base. Slowly loosening the part, remove it by pulling it towards you.
- The new heater is installed in the same way as the old one is removed. Before performing this operation, clean the installation site of debris.
This video, using the example of an Indesit machine, shows the replacement of the heater:
Temperature and level sensors in the Atlant machine: check and replacement
A breakdown of the water level sensor (pressure switch) most often manifests itself during the collection and discharge of water from the machine. The sensor must inform the controller about the level of the collected water so that it stops the collection process and the tank is not overfilled. In the same way, the sensor informs the module that the water has not been drained, so the machine cannot spin the laundry. If the sensor is out of order, then the signals are not given – you need to check and change the sensor.
Speaking about the failure of the temperature sensor, the trouble is that with its breakdown, the washing machine heats the water too much or, on the contrary, does not heat it at all. You can check if the sensor is working as follows:
- Remove the rear panel and remove the sensor (from the heater or tank, depending on where it is located in your SMA Atlant model).
- Arm yourself with a tester and check the resistance. After that, immerse the sensor in water and warm it up slightly for a couple of minutes. Heating the temperature sensor, measure the resistance again. If the measurements differ significantly, then everything works as it should (and then the breakdown must be sought in the heater or controller). If the data is the same, then the sensor needs to be replaced.
Important! When removing the sensor, mark the terminals. While you buy a new one, you can forget where and what it was.
How to fix breakdowns in the drainage and water intake system yourself
If the washer has stopped draining the waste water, then the first thing to inspect is the water drain hose, then the filter and drain pump. If fine debris gets into the filter, which accumulates there over time, the machine cannot push through the water. As a result, all this can end not only with the fact that the water does not merge, but also with a complete stop of the machine.
That is why it is recommended to check the pockets of clothes before washing.
Cleaning the drain filter should fit tightly into your household schedule – this will help protect the SM from breakdowns, blockages and unnecessary repair costs. And cleaning the hose takes no more than two hours. The pump (drain pump) in all Atlant machines is located at the bottom of the case, to get it, just put the car on its side and get to the pump from the bottom.
The filter, hose and pump must not only be cleaned of debris and dirt, but also rinsed under running water.
If you need to replace the drain suction, the video will help you do it right:
The water intake system is a weak point in the Atlant car
Speaking of overflowing water into the drum, the filling valve may be to blame. It is located on the rear panel – it is easy to find it, because a water intake hose is attached to it on the body.
Before checking the valve, turn off the power to the machine and disconnect it from the water supply, then remove the top panel of the housing. After that, you need to remove all the wires and check the valve resistance level with a tester – the indicator should be in the region of 2-4 ohms. If the values are different, the valve needs to be replaced according to the following scheme:
- Remove the hoses from the valve by loosening the clamps (remember, photograph or draw a diagram of their location).
- Loosen the bolts holding the valve. If the valve is held by clips, release them.
- Rotate valve and pull towards you to remove.
- Take a new part, install and assemble everything in reverse order. Remember that the valve is not repairable, so don’t waste your energy.
This helpful video shows you how to replace the filling valve yourself: