With the beginning of the heating season, the problem of dry skin becomes relevant for many – alas, the heat from the batteries dries the air. It’s time to take saving measures against itching, peeling and feeling of tightness of the skin.
In order to maintain an optimal level of moisture, the skin is protected by a special hydrolipidic mantle – a thin film on the surface of the epidermis. Loss of moisture leads to partial dehydration of the skin, and as a result, it becomes covered with fine wrinkles, becomes dull and prone to irritation.
It should be noted that in cosmetology, the concepts of “dry skin” and “dehydrated skin” are distinguished: in the first case, it is understood that there are not enough lipids (fats) in the protective mantle, and in the second, we are talking about a lack of moisture in the intercellular matrix. So, the autumn desiccation, which will be discussed later, is often associated precisely with a violation of the structure of the protective layer – temperature extremes, hard water, dry air, tight-fitting clothing, as well as unbalanced nutrition and stress greatly contribute to this.
The so-called water-retaining structure of the stratum corneum of the skin consists of several elements. Sebum repels water from the surface of the skin and slightly smoothes the horny scales that cover the intercellular spaces and prevent moisture from evaporating from them. The protein keratin binds and holds water molecules in the skin. The lipid barrier further controls and regulates the evaporation of water through the skin. And finally, the components of the natural moisturizing factor: amino acids, urea, lactic acid and others are concentrated around the scales of the stratum corneum, creating a kind of shell.
As soon as one or several elements cease to fully fulfill their function, the level of moisture in the skin begins to fall, which causes the very tightness, itching and flaking to appear.
The main task of products designed to help get rid of dry skin is to imitate a healthy protective layer or restore it. One of the key and most common ways to do this is occlusive agents (in English, the word occlusion means “enclosure, barrier”), which creates a film on the surface of the skin that is impervious to water molecules.
Many people think that glycerin is best suited for this purpose, because it is produced by the body and plays a key role in protecting healthy skin from drying out. However, it must be understood that glycerin is hygroscopic, therefore, if a large amount of it is applied to the surface of the skin, on the contrary, it will draw water from the stratum corneum. Nevertheless, in the right proportion and in the right cosmetic formula, this ingredient can have a very positive effect on skin hydration.
You should avoid too frequent bath procedures – especially if you like to use shower gels or make the water hot
In addition to glycerin, the occlusive function in products for dry skin is performed, for example, by mineral oil, petroleum jelly and paraffin – one of the most common, neutral and hypoallergenic components. They rarely cause a skin reaction, do not create a greenhouse effect and do not cause irritation. They are followed by silicone oils – as a rule, they are recognized in the composition by the end -icone.
Another group of occlusive ingredients are animal fats, lanolin (derived from six sheep) and squalane, a derivative of squalene, a natural component of human and some animal sebum. Finally, this also includes natural waxes and natural oils.
Sometimes, in order to make the skin smooth and soft again, it turns out that only a cream with the ingredients listed above is not enough – the epidermis still remains loose, flaky and rough. Keratosis is to blame for this – coarsening of horny scales and insufficiently rapid desquamation of dead skin cells.
Here funds will come to the rescue that will help dissolve intercellular bonds, spur the renewal process and positively affect the production of elastin and collagen. Most often, products containing acids are used for this purpose: salicylic, lactic, mandelic and others. Do not be afraid of skin irritation – the percentage of acids in the composition is much lower than in conventional peeling products. In addition, they are combined with ingredients that simultaneously soothe, moisturize and protect the skin.
Another popular and effective component in the fight for soft smooth skin is urea. It is often introduced into creams for rough skin on the legs and hands, but it will also come in handy in products for the whole body. Finally, antioxidants are indispensable here, since the damaged lipid barrier can be subjected to excessive oxidation – vitamins C and E are most often found among them.
In addition to the cosmetic attack, there are a number of other measures that can be taken to alleviate the condition of the skin and get rid of itching and other unpleasant sensations. You should avoid too frequent bath procedures – especially if you like to use shower gels or make the water hot: both of them damage the protective film on the skin. It is worth switching to mild non-foaming cleansers – oils, creams or milk.
The diet should have enough sources of fatty acids and healthy fats – red and any other fatty fish, cod liver, olive, pumpkin, coconut and other oils, high-quality nuts and seeds will help maintain their level at an optimal level. Don’t forget to drink water throughout the day, especially if you’re heavy on coffee and tea, which can contribute to dehydration.