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Need to put an oil seal in the washing machine? This is an important protective component, thanks to which the drum rotates normally and the equipment works in the usual rhythm. Still, some parts of the machine should not come into contact with water, otherwise this will lead to wear of the components. How to understand that it is time to change the oil seal, and most importantly – how to get it out of the housing? Let’s take a look at the repair steps.
The role of the gland in the design of the SMA
The washing device is such that the drum is in the tank. In order for the mechanism to rotate normally and evenly, a bearing is installed in the center of the tank. To protect the bearing from moisture and wash out the lubricant, a rubber seal is installed over the ring – an oil seal. The part evenly closes all the holes through which water can penetrate.
If you remove the rubber ring, then the grease will be washed off the bearing, friction and wear of the components will begin. This will lead to the destruction of the shaft and the breakdown of the washing machine. Moreover, the malfunction is very serious, so sometimes it makes sense to buy new equipment, and not repair the old one.
How to correctly identify the problem?
No matter how hard the manufacturer tries, over time, soapy water gets on the moving elements. As a result, the gland shrinks and becomes unusable. You can understand that parts need replacement by a strong rattle, vibration, and uncharacteristic sounds during washing.
Here are the main signs:
- When the drum is rocked, a backlash is formed (the space between the tank). Also, the rotations are non-uniform.
- At the last stage, the drum does not rotate at all, the sleeve is destroyed.
- The machine makes a lot of noise and vibrates when spinning.
At the first symptoms, take up the inspection and repair. This will help to avoid additional expenses, especially in the last stages, when not only the moving parts are destroyed, but also the drum shaft.
Dismantling and installation of the stuffing box
Before replacing the part, you will have to disassemble the CMA body almost completely. Do not rush to immediately buy a replacement element. It is better to dismantle the old seal and take a look at the letters and numbers indicated there, because for LG, Bosch and other brands, the dimensions may differ. Better yet, go to the store with an oil seal and pick up an analogue.
Progress:
- Disconnect the equipment from the mains, close the water inlet valve.
- Move the car away from the wall.
- Remove plinth panel. Substitute the container, remove the filter and wait for the remaining water to drain.
- Remove two screws from the back. Slide and remove the top cover.
- Twist the bolts around the perimeter of the rear panel, remove it.
- Turn the pulley to remove the drive belt.
- Release the clamps and remove the wiring that is attached to the tank.
- Disconnect the contacts from the heating element, twist the central nut and push the bolt inward. Take out the heater. Dismantling the heating element is not necessary, but it is still better to make sure not to damage the element.
- Disconnect the motor contacts, unscrew the mounting bolts, remove the motor from the housing.
- Loosen the clamps, remove the pipe from the seat of the tank.
- If nothing else holds the structure behind, move to the front.
- Remove the powder tray by pressing the latch in the center.
- Unscrew the screws securing the main panel, wring out the latches and remove it up.
- Open the door, bend the hatch seal. Remove the clamp from its place.
- Push the seal in. Unscrew the two fasteners of the lock.
- Run your hand behind the body, disconnect the wires from the lock.
- Remove the remaining screws and remove the front cover.
- Move to the top. Disconnect the hoses from the powder hopper, remove it.
- Disconnect the wiring and hose of the level sensor, as well as the intake valve. Remove counterweights. Make sure nothing is attached to the top of the tank.
- Go back to the bottom, disconnect the shock absorbers. Raise the tank, removing it from the springs, remove it from the body.
Using a wrench, unscrew the main bolt and dismantle the pulley. Separate the two parts of the tank by unscrewing the screws around the perimeter.
You will see a black o-ring in the center hole. To remove, pry it with a screwdriver and remove it from the socket.
Which side to put the seal on? Look at the factory markings. If there is nothing, then apply the ring so that it most tightly covers the entire surface of the bearing. Be sure to apply a protective lubricant first.
The video will help you cope with the work yourself:
What is the best lubricant?
To prolong the life of parts that are subjected to rotation and friction every day, it is important to use a quality lubricant. Here are the properties that the tool should have:
- Moisture resistance. Machine parts are constantly in contact with water, so the lubricant must be resistant to moisture.
- Heat resistance. Constant friction leads to heat, therefore, the product must be resistant to high temperatures.
- Good composition without aggressive additives that can destroy rubber.
- Dense consistency, well covering the surface.
Here are a few manufacturers of suitable lubricants:
- HYDRA-2. The syringe is easy to use. Maintains operation at a temperature from -18 °C to +190 °C. Has moisture resistant properties.
- SKL EBI. Waterproof and heat-resistant paste withstands up to +140 °C. A small tube allows you to conveniently squeeze the contents directly onto the part.
- SKL EBI398. Thick substance with a dense water-repellent texture does not contain aggressive additives. It is permissible to use at temperatures from -30 ° C to +120 ° C.
Now you know how to put an oil seal on a washing machine. Do not forget that a well-installed oil seal extends the life of the bearings. As a result, the equipment itself will last you longer. To avoid premature wear of parts, do not overload the drum with laundry and set the CMA according to the level.