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Increased noise, hum and vibration during the operation of the washing machine indicate wear on the bearing in the drum. Therefore, if you notice such symptoms, do not delay. Inspect parts immediately and replace if necessary.
How to repair a washing machine with your own hands, you will learn in the article.
What causes bearing wear
The bearing ensures uniform rotation of the tub and drum during washing. Following a worn bearing, the cross and the CMA tank can be damaged, which will lead to a complete stop of work. You will have to change the tank that comes with the drum. Sometimes such a replacement is equal to the cost of a new washing machine.
What are the reasons for the breakdown
- Natural wear. The manufacturer claims that the service life of the bearing is 5 to 7 years. With rare use, it can reach up to 10 years.
- Water leak. This can happen due to a damaged oil seal that protects the bearing from moisture. Water washes out the lubricant, which leads to corrosion and gradual wear.
Remember! All parts must be replaced at once: 2 bearings and an oil seal, otherwise the repair will not be of high quality.
How to recognize a malfunction
In addition to loud noise, you may notice an error code on the display. You can also shake the drum by hand. If there is play, the drum moves away from the tank, which means that the reason is wear. The same result will be if the rotations of the drum are non-uniform.
Preparation for repair
Replacing the drum bearing requires disassembling the washing machine. Therefore, the SM needs to be prepared. For this:
- Disconnect the machine from the network.
- Disconnect all communications. Before unscrewing the inlet hose, prepare a container, as water will flow out of it.
- Drain the water from the drain filter. To do this, open the hatch at the bottom of the front panel. It is fastened with latches, you will need to unclench them with a screwdriver.
- Unscrew the filter by substituting a container.
Move the washer away from the wall so that it is convenient for you to move around. If there is not enough space in the room, it may be better to move to the garage.
What tools will be needed
- A set of slotted and Phillips screwdrivers.
- Open-end and socket wrenches.
- A hammer.
- Bolt.
- Bit.
- Sealant or glue (if the tank is non-separable).
- Drill.
- Tool WD-40.
- Lubrication.
How to choose spare parts
To replace, you need to buy the following parts:
- two bearings (front and rear);
- stuffing box.
All parts must be original, only for your SMA model. Unsuitable bearings will wear out quickly, leading to repeated replacement.
Repair stages
Disassembling a washing machine is the same for any brand and model. You need to start by removing the panels.
Top cover
Use a screwdriver to unscrew the two screws on the back. Slide the cover away from you and remove it from the case.
Back and front cover
To dismantle the rear panel, unscrew all the screws around the perimeter. Removing the front panel is a little more difficult. Proceed in sequence:
- Take out the detergent drawer. Press the latch in the center and pull towards you at the same time.
- Loosen all screws on the control panel with a screwdriver.
- Release the plastic clips and remove the panel. The wiring can not be unfastened by placing the panel on top of the washer. But if you want to remove it, mark or photograph the location of the connectors in advance.
- Bend the sealing rubber on the hatch door. Remove the seal clamp. Insert the cuff into the tank.
- To prevent the hatch door from interfering with disassembly, it can also be removed. Loosen the hinges and set the door aside.
- Unscrew the two bolts of the UBL lock, unfasten its wiring.
- Remove the top and bottom screws on the front panel. Take it off.
Elements at the top of the tank
To pull out the tank, you need to disconnect all the parts that are attached to it.
- Unscrew the bolts and remove the counterweight at the top.
- Lifting the powder receptacle, unclench the nozzle clamp, remove it.
- Disconnect the filling valve wiring and unscrew the bolts that secure it to the SM body. Pull out the valve together with the powder receptacle.
- Disconnect the pressure sensor hose from the tank.
Posterior SMA
To remove the drive belt, scroll the pulley and pull it towards you. Now disconnect the tank pulley. Using a wrench, unscrew the center bolt. If it sticks, sprinkle with WD-40 and leave for a while. After unscrewing the bolt, remove the pulley from the shaft.
If your washing machine has a heating element at the back, disconnect its wiring in the same way as the motor wiring. Loosen the motor bolts and pull it out of the housing.
Loosen the drain hose clamp. Place the container beforehand, as water may spill out of it. Disconnect the pipe from the tank.
Dismantling the front
Remove the front counterweights by unscrewing the bolts. Disconnect the wires from the heating element, it is located under the tank. Now the tank is held only by hooks and shock absorbers. Remove shock absorber screws. Lift the tank up, removing it from the hooks, and remove it from the body.
Tank disassembly
If the tank is collapsible in the SMA, then it is enough to unscrew the bolts around the perimeter, unclench the latches and remove one half.
If the tank is not separable, it will be more difficult to get the drum. Will have to cut. You will need a hacksaw and a metal blade – be sure to take it for metal, as they are thinner, so you will do the job neatly.
- Install the tank on edge.
- Start cutting from a convenient location.
- Having cut into two halves, proceed to dismantle the drum.
To make it easier to get the drum, hit the sleeve several times with a hammer and it will fall out.
How to replace a bearing
- Remove the seal by prying it out with a screwdriver.
- Place a chisel on the outer race of the bearing. Gently tap on it with a hammer, moving in a circle.
- After knocking the bearing out of the cage, do the same with the second part. If you have a special puller, then the task is easier.
Clean up the seat. Lubricate the bearings, install in the socket. To make them sit evenly, use a bolt. Tap the bolt with a hammer, moving it along the outer edge of the part.
Place the oil seal on top, lubricate its inner groove.
Replacement completed. It remains to assemble the car in reverse order.
Washing machine tank assembly
The problem of a non-separable tank in the Ariston or Indesit washer was solved by sawing two parts. Now the question is: how to hermetically connect the two halves? After all, the seam must be completely waterproof and withstand such loads:
- strong vibration;
- extreme temperature fluctuations;
- contact with pressurized water.
Therefore, it is important to choose how to glue the tank after repair. We recommend that before sawing the seam, mark and drill holes around the perimeter. If you haven’t done this before, no big deal. Connect the two parts and make holes (about 20-30 pieces with equal distance). Bolts will be inserted here for secure fastening. Next, you need to decide which sealant to use.
Possible options:
- Permatex 81730. The product has excellent tightness, it is used for gluing headlights and windows in a car. Withstands mechanical loads from -62 to +232 degrees. The glue performed well in outdoor use.
- Kraftool. An excellent choice for heavy duty sealing. The tool showed resistance to vibrations, moisture and temperature (up to +250 degrees) during gluing joints in electric pumps and fireplaces.
- Glue F. Killer polyurethane agent, which connects the halves of the tank tightly. Plus – no bolts are needed, the fixation is super strong. Minus – if necessary, re-disassembly will have to be cut again.
- ABRO 11AB-R. The super-hermetic composition of the tube ensures a secure hold. Withstands temperatures up to 343 degrees, strong vibrations and exposure to alkalis.
So, the sealant is selected, now gluing is carried out. After sawing – it’s easy. Proceed like this:
- Insert the drum into the tank.
- Lubricate the edges of the halves with sealant. Do not apply too much, try to evenly distribute it around the perimeter.
- Connect the two parts, pressing well against each other.
- Screw the bolts into the prepared holes.
Important! Tighten the bolts before the sealant dries.
Leave the tank for 2 hours until fully bonded. After that, you can begin to reassemble the washing machine.
Note that the described connection is reliable and durable. Therefore, you can safely operate the equipment for several more years. Even in the case of disassembling the machine, the tank will not be the cause. Happy repair!