How to prune cherries in spring and summer

Cherry pruning is the most important procedure that performs many tasks. With the help of pruning, the appearance of the tree is formed, as adapted as possible for good fruiting.

In addition, the procedure helps to get rid of old, broken, dry and diseased branches, which significantly rejuvenates the tree and contributes to its long life.

Do I need to cut the cherry

For someone who has at least once encountered a wild fruit tree, such a question is not worth it. Without pruning, the sweet cherry will very soon turn into an overgrown sloppy tree, the fruits are crushed, and the crown will thicken greatly. This will impair the access of air inside the crown, there will be pockets of high humidity, which, in turn, will lead to the development of fungal diseases.

Types of pruning cherries

There are several types of pruning cherries, and each of them is done for a specific purpose.

1. Formative. It is carried out during the first few years of life. The purpose of pruning is to form the crown of a tree of the desired shape. The time of the event is early spring.
2. Anti-aging. It is carried out with the aim of replacing old shoots that have ceased to produce crops with younger ones. Allows you to significantly rejuvenate an old tree and prolong its active fruiting. Old trees rejuvenate in spring.
3. Sanitary. Its purpose is to rid the tree of dry, broken, dead and diseased shoots. It is carried out in a planned manner in spring and autumn, as well as during the fruiting period in case of emergency, for example, damage to branches under the weight of fruits.

Cherry pruning in spring

Spring pruning of cherries is a rather responsible procedure. The video at the link below will help you understand its essence and avoid mistakes.

When to prune cherries in spring

The timing of spring pruning of cherries depends on the region of its growth. During this procedure, the tree must be at rest. For pruning, you need to choose a time when the average daily temperature will be above 0 degrees Celsius, but the growing season for sweet cherries has not yet begun, i.e. The buds haven’t started to swell yet.

Depending on the region, this time falls on the period from the beginning of March (for the southern regions) to the beginning of April (for more northern areas).

When can I cut dry branches on a sweet cherry

All dry, broken, frost-damaged branches are removed at the same time as the main pruning. Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the bark of the tree. Branches damaged by rodents or having traces of fungal diseases must also be removed. All saw cuts and cuts after pruning must be disinfected using an aqueous solution of copper sulphate, and the cut branches must be burned.

How to trim a cherry

There are several schemes that allow you to form a cherry crown in a certain way. With the help of annual pruning, the following types of crown can be formed:

• Stop leader.
• Australian bush.
• Bowl.
• Sparse-tiered.
• Spanish bush.
• Vogel.
• Flat crown.
• Triangle.
• Bushy.
• Spindle

Most often, gardeners form a sparse-tiered crown or a bowl-shaped crown in a cherry tree.

The formation of the cherry crown in the form of a bowl

The formation of the cherry crown in the form of a bowl is carried out with the following purpose:

• Reduce the growth of the tree, thereby facilitating the removal of the crop from the upper tier.
• Lighten the crown by increasing the amount of sunlight penetrating the crown.
• Reduce crown density.

The bowl is formed in the following way. After planting at a height of 0,5 m, the seedling is pinched. 5-6 shoots are left, evenly spaced around the circumference of the trunk. If necessary, they are bent so that they form the skeleton of the bowl.

Subsequently, all branches that grow inside the bowl must be cut.

Anti-aging cherry pruning in spring: scheme

Rejuvenating pruning in the spring may be necessary for an adult tree if there is a steady decrease in its fruiting. In this case, instead of the old branches that bear fruit and weaken, new ones need to be grown. For this, a third of the shoots older than 5 years are annually removed. After a few seasons, newly appearing shoots will completely form a new crown.

Pruning cherries to reduce upward growth

An adult cherry is a tall and powerful tree, so harvesting from its very top is very problematic. This issue can be partially resolved at the stage of tree crown formation, forming it flat or in the form of a bowl.

The tying of weights to branches is also widely used; under their weight, the shoots take on a horizontal position. Various spacers and clothespins are also used, which direct the growth of the shoot not up, but to the side.

Subsequently, the shoot will become woody and remain in such a horizontal or inclined position.

Is it possible to prune cherry blossoms

Cherry blossoms should not be pruned. The flowering period is a time of intense sap flow, so any branch that has undergone shortening can simply dry out.

How to cut young cherries: a diagram

The formation of the cherry crown begins from the first year of planting it in open ground. Depending on the type of crown being formed, trimming schemes are different.

Pruning old cherries

Pruning of old cherries is done in spring and summer. At this time, old branches aged 6–8 years are removed. It is better to stretch this procedure for several years, cutting out no more than 1% of the old crown at a time. Fruiting is transferred to the side branches, this simplifies both sanitary work with the tree and harvesting.

Pruning cherries in summer

The traditional time for pruning fruit trees is spring and autumn. However, sweet cherries are also pruned in summer.

The video below shows the main nuances of summer pruning cherries.

Is it possible to prune cherries in summer

In summer, you can and even need to cut cherries. At this time, excess green shoots are removed, thickening the crown, tops, dry branches are cut out, unnoticed in the spring during sanitary pruning.

When to prune cherries in summer

Summer pruning is carried out in two stages. The first stage is thinning the crown. It is done after the leaves bloom. The second stage is carried out after harvesting.

Pruning cherries in the summer after flowering

After the end of the flowering period, when foliage appears on the branches, you can start cleaning and thinning the crown. In early spring it is difficult to determine which branches endured the winter well and which froze. In the summer, everything is in sight. Leaves simply will not bloom on dead branches, so they need to be removed. If a fungus appears on the shoots, they are also cut out and burned.

How to form a cherry by tweezing

Armoring is pinching the top of a growing shoot. It can be done simply with a fingernail, if the shoot is lignified – with a garden knife or pruner. The armor delays the growth of the shoot and gives impetus to the growth of lateral branches. Armoring reduces the growth of the tree, but increases its yield. In this way, you can stop the growth of the shoot in the wrong direction and direct it where you want it.

In order for the crown of a sweet cherry seedling to form well, its shoot is pinched at a height of about a meter from the ground. By autumn, this will allow lateral shoots with good divergence angles to form the basis for crown formation.

Cherry crown formation without pruning

Cherries bear fruit only on horizontal shoots. Therefore, gardeners often simply bend vertical shoots to the ground, holding them in a horizontal position with ropes, suspended weights, etc. This method can make a fruiting branch out of a spinning top.

Pruning cherries to increase yields

The easiest way to increase the yield of young sweet cherries is to restrain the growth of annual growth, which can reach 1,2 m per year. Such shoots are pinched at a height of 60-80 cm. This will lead to the growth of shorter side shoots, on which fruits will appear.

Pruning cherries in the summer after fruiting

After harvesting, the second part of the summer pruning of cherries is carried out. At this time, green non-lignified shoots that grow incorrectly, thicken the crown, as well as green tops, are removed. Vertical shoots of the current year are shortened by a third.

Several methods for forming a cherry crown

The most common options for the formation of the cherry crown have already been listed earlier. Among these methods is the formation of the crown according to the KGB method, which is now rapidly becoming fashionable among gardeners.

Cherry shaping KGB

The abbreviation KGB has nothing to do with the Soviet secret service. The abbreviation stands for Kym Green Bush, which translates to Kim Green Bush. This Australian horticulturist pioneered this technique for forming a low-growing cherry orchard.

The formation of a cherry bush according to the Kim Green method has several advantages:

• All cherries are about the same size.
• Bushes are compact and easy to use.
• The plant does not have old branches.
• Permanent rejuvenation of the bush.
• The presence of a large number of leaders reduces the likelihood of freezing in winter.
• The system is simple and clear.

The video below shows the formation of a cherry crown using the Kim Green method.

KGB cherry pruning: how to prune in the first year after planting

After planting, the seedling is cut off at a height of 0,6 m from the ground. During the summer, several shoots will appear on it. The 4 most powerful of them are left, and after they grow to a length of 0,6 m, they are shortened to a length of 0,15–0,2 m.

Formation of a two-year-old sweet cherry according to the KGB system

By the end of next summer, shoots will grow on four stumps of last year. It is necessary to leave 2 pieces on each of them, also cutting them to a length of 0,15–0,2 m. There will be 8 stumps in total.

Pruning three-year-old cherries using the KGB method

In the third year, 2 shoots are also left on each stump, bringing their total number to 16. If space allows, 20 shoots can also be left. By the end of summer, they are shortened so that the height of the tree is no more than 2–2,5 meters.

Formation of sweet cherries by a bush for the 4th year

For 4 and subsequent years, branches that shade and grow deep into the crown are cut out. The number of leaders is kept constant by removing the 4 or 5 thickest shoots per year and growing new ones instead.

Formation of sweet cherries according to the “Australian bush” type with a scheme

The advantages of forming a crown according to this type is that the crown is initially laid low. This greatly facilitates planting care and harvesting. In addition, the presence of several equally loaded trunks distributes the fruit load more evenly.

Video about the formation of sweet cherries using the “Australian Bush” method below.

How to form cherries in the first year of planting

After planting, the sweet cherry seedling is shortened to 0,5 m. After the side shoots growing from the hemp reach a length of 5–6 cm, 4 of them are left, extending from each other at approximately a right angle. Above them, ordinary clothespins are attached to the trunk, which direct the growth of the shoots almost horizontally.

Cherry formation in the second year of planting

In the second year, they continue to form a bush in the shape of a vase. To do this, in the spring, all growth buds are removed, which have a direction of growth deep into the crown. On the main shoots, only gentle branches are left.

Cherry pruning scheme for the 3rd year

In the third year, the entire growth of the current year is shortened to 8-10 cm. This is done so that it does not greatly obscure the bouquet branches.

Cherry formation according to the “Australian Bush” scheme in subsequent years

In the following years, all annual shoots are pruned so that the tree does not go beyond its dimensions. Once every 5-6 years, pruning is carried out in order to rejuvenate the bush, removing 1/5 of the fruit-bearing branches. Young shoots are grown in place of the removed shoots.

Formation of cherries according to the type of “Spanish bush”

Cherry molding of this type is used mainly in southern countries. This is due to the fact that when forming a tree with a low crown, there is a high risk of losing the entire crop during return frosts. Flower buds of tall trees practically do not freeze at this time.

A video on how to form a cherry like a “Spanish Bush” is below.

Pruning cherries “Spanish Bush” with a scheme when planting

In the spring, planted seedlings are pruned at a height of 35–70 cm. The height depends on the number of buds on the central conductor, as well as on the height at which it is desirable to obtain the main skeletal branches. The lateral shoots that appeared in the summer (usually 4 pieces) are placed on a guy line in order to get a large angle of divergence. After the shoots grow to 50–60 cm, they are shortened to a level 15 cm above the leader.

In autumn, two trellises are stretched near the bushes with plantings at ground level. They serve to fix the shoots of the second order. This allows for a more even distribution of branches and a more open crown.

Pruning a two-year-old cherry according to the “Spanish bush” pattern

In the second year, when the shoots grow to a length of 50–60 cm, they are cut in half. By autumn, sprouts of the 3rd order will have a length of about half a meter, and they also need to be made half as large.

Horizontal shoots do not need to be shortened.

The formation of the cherry crown in subsequent years

The fruiting of sweet cherries formed according to this type occurs on annual young shoots. In order for the crop not to fall, the fruiting branches are partially cut out (about a quarter of the total). Thus, there is a constant rejuvenation of the bush.

Cherry, formed according to this principle, should have a height of no higher than 2,5 m. Therefore, branches that go beyond the dimensions of the crown both in height and in width are cut to the required size.

Cherry pruning scheme “Sparse-tiered”

For a long time, a sparsely-tiered crown was considered optimal for the formation of a fruit tree. However, now more and more gardeners are starting to move away from this scheme. The tree formed in this way has a rather large height, which is inconvenient when working with it. However, the positive side is that with this scheme, cherry flowers are more resistant to spring return frosts, which allows you to save at least part of the crop.

Pruning cherry seedlings after planting

A planted tree in the first year is cut at a height of 30-60 cm from the ground (the further south, the lower), leaving 4-6 buds on the trunk. Until next year, the seedling will give powerful shoots from the buds.

Pruning two year old cherries

In the spring and summer of the second year, the first tier of the tree is formed. To do this, do the following:

• Choose 3-4 strongest shoots, taking them as the basis of the lower tier.
• The shoot extending from the trunk below all, cut off at a distance of 50-60 cm from the point of attachment to the trunk.
• Cut off all other shoots at the same level from the ground as the very first.
• Cut off the central conductor, measuring its height 60-70 cm from the topmost branch and stepping back 4 more buds.

How to prune XNUMX year old cherries

In the spring and summer of the third year, the formation of the first layer of sweet cherry continues and the second is laid. It is done like this:

• Determine the weakest branch of the lower tier. She is not cut off.
• The growth of the remaining branches of the first tier must be cut approximately at the same level with this branch.
• Cut out branches growing at an acute angle to the main trunk (competitor shoots), as well as branches growing inside the crown.

After that, proceed to the formation of the second tier. To do this, do the following:

• Two strong branches are chosen, directed outward in different directions and extending from the central conductor by 30 cm or more. The rest are cut out.
• If necessary, the shoots are shortened by a level of 10–15 cm below the elongation shoot of the first tier.
• The central conductor is cut off at a level of 50–60 cm above the level of the attachment point of the branches of the second tier, plus 4 more buds above.

Cherry formation in the 4th year

In the fourth year, the formation of a sparsely-tiered crown is almost completed. At this time, the growth of the tree is limited, the central conductor is cut off above the weakest side branch. The branch itself is cut to a length of 0,5 m. The branches of the third tier are shortened, their length should be approximately 20 cm less than the length of the central conductor.

If the shoots of elongation of the skeletal branches of the first and second tiers grow by more than 0,7–0,8 m, then they are also shortened. Shoots directed inside the crown, as well as tops, are completely removed. Shoots growing in the right direction are cut to a length of 0,7 m.

Tips for beginner gardeners

For gardeners who first decide to take on a pruner, it would be useful to study the theoretical part of the issue. The first pruning is best done with a mentor or under his guidance. It must be remembered that improper pruning can simply kill the tree.

What tools are needed for pruning cherries

High-quality garden tools are the key to the health of a tree. When pruning, you need to remember that any damage, and even more so a cut or cut, is an open wound through which an infection or fungus can enter. The tool must be sharp, this minimizes the likelihood of unnecessary damage.

For pruning in spring and summer, a gardener usually needs:

• Garden shears for removing green shoots.
• Pruner.
• Cutlery cutter.
• Garden saw.
• Garden knife.
• Stepladder (for high sections of the crown).

Before the trimming procedure, all tools must be disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate.

How to cut branches correctly

Branches should be cut so as to inflict as little damage to the tree as possible. For example, when removing a branch coming from the trunk, one should strive not to touch the pocket of bark at the bottom of the branch attachment, as well as the scar from the bark that is on top. Such a sleep will drag on very quickly. If you make a saw cut close to the stem, the wound will be very large, if you retreat far, you will get a big knot.

It is better to pre-file large branches from below, otherwise they, breaking from their own weight when filing, can tear off a piece of living bark. On branchings, the cut must be made from below. When working with a pruner, you need to cut slightly obliquely, right above the kidney.

What weather is cherry pruning done?

Pruning is not carried out at low temperatures, since the wood at this time is quite fragile. It is also undesirable to trim in damp cold weather, as this contributes to gum disease.

Processing slices after trimming

The cuts and saw cuts remaining after the pruning procedure must be disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate and covered with garden pitch. This is especially true for large cuts. Increased attention should be paid to the treatment of wounds if pruning was carried out for sanitary purposes, for example, wood affected by a fungus was removed.

Saw cuts can also be processed with ordinary natural-based oil paint. Garden pitch is better to use natural, based on fir resin, and not petroleum products.

Conclusion

Pruning cherries in spring and summer helps the tree stay healthy for a long time and delight the gardener with an excellent harvest. There are quite a few nuances of this procedure, however, there is enough information on this topic to master all the intricacies of pruning.