Contents
- 1. Do not confuse visage and makeup!
- 2. Makeup schemes by color type and face shape do not work
- 3. Two tasks of the foundation
- 4. How to choose the right main tone color?
- 5. Make-up base – firm “no”!
- 6. Concealers and correctors
- 7. The brand and cost of cosmetics is not the most important thing!
- 8. A fan of eyelashes is the main thing in eye makeup
- 12. Simplicity, not complication
Among her clients are the most beautiful and stylish women in the country: Irina Dubtsova, Lera Kudryavtseva, Renata Litvinova, Valeria, Albina Dzhanabaeva, Evelina Khromchenko. Elena Shtitskaya works according to the principle “Beauty is in simplicity of execution”. The delightful images that she creates for the stars could only be born in such a commonwealth of common sense, refined technology and full of creativity love for her work. On December 8 and 9, a master class for professionals from a star makeup artist was held in Volgograd. We will tell you about a few secrets of her skill.
Elena visited Volgograd for the first time. Some of Elena Shtitskaya’s favorite clients are Volgograd singers Irina Dubtsova and Albina Dzhanabaeva. “You won’t believe how warmly they talk about their hometown! I fell in love with Volgograd in absentia and am fascinated by it, having been here in person! “
Irina Dubtsova’s makeup for the clip “Eat, Pray, Love”
1. Do not confuse visage and makeup!
Most unsuccessful make-ups happen because people don’t understand the difference between the two. The make-up is intended to change the face, to paint it differently. The task of the make-up is to show the beauty of the face, to follow the nature of a woman. Attempts to bring the face to the “ideal” by changing its shape and proportions turn visage into make-up.
2. Makeup schemes by color type and face shape do not work
Elena Shtitskaya advises to move away from basic makeup schemes based on the color type or face shape. Without common sense, no templates work by themselves.
“As my practice has shown, clichés and specific precise advice have nothing to do with the real work of a make-up artist. When, after graduating from the school of stylists, I got on “Muz TV” to Lera Kudryavtseva, to Aurora, to Masha Malinovskaya, not a single scheme, which was given in the basic solution, never helped me. No matter what they say about the classic combination of colors in visage, about the technologies of “correct” application, not a single scheme has worked in makeup, for example, Renata Litvinova and Evelina Khromchenko. “
Renata Litvinova knows a lot about good makeup
Each particular woman is much more complex than any scheme, and templates constantly fail. So Elena … just stopped using them.
Instead of dividing faces into the familiar round, square, triangular and oval shapes, Elena divides the face into several horizontal zones – the horizons of the face. If in each of these zones the makeup is correctly arranged on the shelves, the face will “play” as it should, regardless of the correctness of its shape. The face as a whole has a frontal, protruding part of the face (what we see when we look directly in the mirror: eyebrows, eyes, nose, forehead, T-zone and chin) and a peripheral part (temples, cheekbones, lateral surface of the cheeks).
Make-up is best applied to clean skin, without cream and base
3. Two tasks of the foundation
The foundation has only two tasks: to lighten (increase) what is needed and darken (reduce) what is unnecessary. The front part of the face becomes lighter, the peripheral part darkens with distance from the center. Elena uses 3 shades of tone in her makeup. The lightest tone is used as a highlight in the center of the face, in the T-zone. The darkest one is like a contour along the hairline, on the cheekbones and under the chin. Between them, the main tone color is used as a transition. It turns out that the center of the face is tinted with the lightest tone, smoothly turning into a darker one as you move away from the center.
4. How to choose the right main tone color?
When choosing the main shade, you need to focus on the color of the skin on the neck, and not on the color of the skin on the inside of the wrist, as we are used to. By the way, Elena does not cover her neck with a tone, because it can stain clothes. But if you choose a tone to match the color of the skin on the neck, then this will not be necessary.
Preparation for the photo session of Lera Kudryavtseva
5. Make-up base – firm “no”!
What to wear under makeup? Elena’s answer surprised many: “Nothing!” The celebrity stylist is confident that the best makeup is achieved when applied to completely clean, dry skin. She does not use any creams or make-up bases, nor does she cleanse the skin before work with makeup removers – their oily traces still remain on the skin and interfere with the ideal result.
“They ask me, how is it possible – without cream at all, but if the skin, for example, peels off? Well, that means the skin is peeling. The task of the visage is to make a high-quality make-up. Skin care, solution of skin problems – these tasks are not intended to be solved by a make-up artist, but by a cosmetologist. In addition, almost all modern tonal products have long been composed of moisturizing ingredients and UV protection. There is no need to complicate things, everything is really simple ”.
“Use everything for everything!”
6. Concealers and correctors
It is no less surprising that Elena does not use concealers or correctors in her work. First, they dry out the skin a lot. Secondly, its tone mapping system allows you to get excellent results without additional tools. She urges to use correctors very carefully, especially in the area under the eyes, because even professional makeup artists do not always manage to do this well.
The need to cover the neck with foundation will disappear if the color of the main tone is selected according to the color of the skin on the neck
7. The brand and cost of cosmetics is not the most important thing!
The main thing in any means is their properties, not the price or brand. Sometimes mascara for 120 rubles will give such an effect that you cannot achieve from mascara of the world’s best brands. Focus on product properties! By the way, at the master class Elena used the usual Loreal mascara for 400 rubles with a ponytail and is very happy with it.
The main thing in makeup is a fan of eyelashes
8. A fan of eyelashes is the main thing in eye makeup
In eye makeup, the most important thing is not the complexity of applying makeup, but an open fan of eyelashes. Not a thick eyelash brush, but a light, beautiful fan. If you want to see for yourself – look at the gloss, look at the most inspiring photo shoots. No one has combined 125 shades of eyeshadow to make their eyes expressive for a long time. Eye makeup has only two tasks: to emphasize the color and shape of the eyes.
Avoid applying blush to the cheekbones on the sides of your face. This immediately visually cuts the face diagonally. On the cheekbone in the peripheral part of the face, a foundation is applied a darker tone, following the natural direction of the cheekbone line, along the bone. The blush themselves are applied only to the frontal part of the face, not below the tip of the nose, to the round cheek-apple that appears when you smile. Then the face retains its natural relief and is not cut into pieces. It is important that the blush does not “run over” on the nasolabial fold in the T-zone, it ages.
Vera Brezhneva before going on stage
Elena Shtitskaya prefers to work with a natural color scheme, because it is she who allows you to work well with the relief and volume of the face. In foundations, she chooses yellowish shades that are closer to the skin of Russian women. You probably guess that the branded cosmetics that are sold here and those that are sold abroad are different in the same products. It turns out that the point is not at all that cosmetics are made worse for us. European women have a little more red pigment in their skin, so a foundation with the same number will go into a yellowish tone, and in Europe – into pink, which is extremely rare for our women and gives the skin an inflamed shade.
When choosing cosmetics, rely on the property of the product, not its name. Very often, eyeshadows, powders, bronzers and blush can replace each other. In Elena’s life, rich in history, there was a situation when at the competition she successfully used a gray-brown pencil for eyebrow makeup for almost 70 models, only by the evening she discovered that it was a lip pencil. However, he coped with the task off-profile. There is in the arsenal of the master and pink eyeshadow, which she uses as a blush. And many popular products (for example, powders, bronzers), without which we are already accustomed to feel like some kind of underpainted, she uses extremely succinctly, as auxiliary strokes, or does not use at all (for example, concealers and bases for foundation). Elena often says: “Use everything for everything!”
Don’t apply blush to the cheekbones on the sides of your face.
12. Simplicity, not complication
Do not think that the professionalism and beauty of makeup is in its multistage and complexity. It is a myth. Beauty lies in simplicity. Elena Shtitskaya does star makeup for her clients in 10, maximum – 20 minutes.
It is not at all necessary to strictly follow fashion instructions. It is generally accepted to apply a cream on the face, then a base, then a foundation, then correctors, and on top – powder. And so – in everything. Such puff pies are not suitable for every skin, not for every case, and not everyone needs it in principle. For example, it is pointless to apply shadows of skin color on the eyelid, because the difference between “before” and “after” will not be visible. Powder on top of foundation most often makes the look heavier and creates a mask effect. So why complicate things?
At the “Workshop” Elena showed three basic eye makeup techniques: arrows, “smokey eyes” and luxurious classic. Surprisingly, in all her works, Elena Shtitskaya uses only three of these techniques. Looking at her star clients, it’s hard to believe in it, because each of them is unique.
It was the “Smokey Eyes” makeup that was used for the image of Irina Dubtsova in the clip “Eat, Pray, Love”
The meeting with the star makeup artist took place thanks to the efforts of the organizers: the event agency Oksana Son “Dream”, which organized Elena’s visit to Volgograd, and the Yulia Gritsuk Hello TV School of Television, which provided a place for the “Elena Shtitskaya Workshop”.
The emotions of the participants were simply off the charts. Instagram is replete with rave reviews: “This is a radical revolution in the understanding of visage!”, “Total cleansing of consciousness!”