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It is pleasant to look at a burning candle, to feel its aroma. But good ones are expensive, and cheap ones smell accordingly. If you wish, you can master candle making. About what and how to make a candle with your own hands and will be discussed.
Base for candles
The oldest material for candles is stearin. Now in its pure form it is almost never used due to its high melting point. But it is present in almost all recipes in the form of an additive. Modern candles are often made from paraffin, waxes, solid oils, and mixtures thereof.
Paraffin
It is a solid product of oil refining. You can buy it at a pharmacy, but it’s expensive. Purified candle paraffin is available in specialty stores or craft stores. P-1 or P-2 brands are suitable for candle making. Marks T are technical, it is better not to take them.
Compared to natural waxes, it has a sufficiently high melting point that it is added to waxes to make the base more refractory.
Do not heat the composition with a large amount of paraffin above 80 degrees, otherwise you will get a defect in the form of a large hole near the wick. At the same time, it is necessary to fill in a paraffin candle at a composition temperature of at least 75-80 degrees. In addition, let it cool down at room temperature (about 23-25 degrees). Forced cooling will provoke the appearance of bubbles, and too low a temperature during pouring will give “foam”.
If you pour cooled paraffin (about 65 ° C), you can get a candle with a “frost coating”. After complete cooling, a whitish coating will appear on the walls. In some cases, it looks very decorative.
If you cannot get rid of bubbles during casting, try changing the paraffin itself (manufacturer) or adding up to 20% stearin.
Beeswax
Natural beeswax is sold by beekeepers and can also be found in beekeeping stores. Flavorings can not be added to this base. It has a recognizable aroma. If you want to make a scented candle, the base scent must be considered.
A candle made from pure beeswax will be soft. At high temperatures in summer, it can change shape. To prevent this from happening, add 10-20% paraffin or stearin. Pour this candle material into molds at 80°C.
And keep in mind that the base color of this wax (yellow) is very hard to cover. We need very high quality dyes and in large quantities. The second option is to find clarified wax – a specially prepared material.
soy wax
This is a relatively new substance that is becoming more and more popular among candle makers.
Advantages:
- Natural ingredients.
- Neutral base in which dyes and flavors of any type are dissolved. Mixes well with other bases.
- Products made from soy wax burn approximately 50% longer than candles made from other waxes.
- When burned, it emits only carbon dioxide and water.
Disadvantages:
- The price is three times more than for purified paraffin.
- In its pure form, only container candles can be made. For molds, at least 20% paraffin / stearin is needed.
When making a container candle in a glass jar, heat the glass and pour into a warm container. Then the candle material will not lag behind the walls.
Pour soy candle material at a low temperature. Pure “soy” without additives is poured when it reaches 40-42 degrees. Otherwise, dips, cracks or bubbles appear. For formulations with additives, set the temperature higher, but start around 47-48°C.
For soy candles, choose lower and wider shapes. Candles are more fusible than paraffin and, moreover, burn longer, but it is necessary that the candle material burn out evenly. This is only possible with a larger diameter – minimum diameter about 6cm.
coconut wax
A mixture of waxes is sold as a candle material, most of which is coconut wax. A clean one is simply not suitable for these purposes, since it does not support long-term combustion.
The base color is white, with a slight characteristic aroma. It has a low melting point, so you can only make a “container” candle out of it – in some kind of container. The melting point depends on the composition, but it is not worth heating above 85 ° C. As well as for a long time to keep the melted wax on fire.
The low melting point promotes the separation of the wax from the walls of the dish. The problem is solved by using opaque glass or by heating the mold before pouring. In any case, initially the container should be at room temperature, and for a snug fit to the walls, it must be heated to 40-50°C.
To increase the melting point, more refractory additives (stearin or paraffin) are added to coconut wax, which can be on the order of 20%.
palm wax
It differs in that it forms crystalline patterns on the surface, so it does not require decoration. Unfortunately, in our country it is problematic to get it.
We have mentioned the most commonly used candle bases above. Glycerin is also added to the wax to make the base more transparent, stearin to raise the melting point and prolong burning. The addition of stearin is also needed to facilitate the removal of the candle from the mold.
What is the best wax to use for candles
The choice of base for a candle depends on its purpose and type. We will only talk about those that can be done at home. In most cases, these are candles for aromatization, massage or for a gift.
- For a scented container candle, use beeswax, coconut wax, or soy wax. For shaped aromatic add 10-20% stearin.
The choice of candle material depends on the purpose and type of candle. - For molding, paraffin or a mixture of any natural wax and stearin (stearin up to 20%) is more suitable.
- To make a massage candle, take soy wax or mix it with coconut. You can add solid and liquid vegetable oils – they will lower the melting point and improve the effect on the skin.
- If you want to make a white candle or a pastel shade, use white wax or stearin.
The above compositions are not a rule, they are recommendations for beginners. In general, almost all waxes can be mixed. But you will have to select the melting point with each change. Even if you change the manufacturer or slightly change the composition.
What to make a wick
Most often, cotton wicks are used for candles. It is easiest to buy it in a specialized store. If you do it yourself, you can twist it from cotton threads for sewing, floss, or use cotton thread for knitting of sufficient thickness. One thread for a candle wick is not enough. From the threads you can weave a pigtail, crochet, just twist into a bundle. In principle, each type of wax requires its own type of wick and its diameter. Even for each composition, so they select the parameters empirically.
In any case, before filling the candle, the cotton wick must be prepared:
- Melt some paraffin.
- Dip a piece of wick into it and hold for 5 minutes.
- Put on waxed paper or foil (it is important that the fat is not absorbed), align.
- Leave for at least 6 hours in the room or put in the refrigerator for an hour.
After such preparation, the wick will burn evenly. If used without preparation, there is a high chance that the flame will “choke”, as it will burn out too quickly.
There are also wooden wicks. They are made from wood veneer. They should be dipped in oil, left there for a few minutes, put on polyethylene or foil and kept for 6-8 hours. Wipe with a cloth before installation.
How to choose the type and thickness of the wick
For long burning, the diameter of the wick is important. There is one important rule that beginners need to remember: the thicker the candle, the thicker the wick should be. But its specific diameter, and type, also depends on the composition of the base.
For example, beeswax candles require thicker wicks. And twisting should be minimal. There may even be just folded threads, otherwise the fire will choke. For paraffin candles, make/choose wicks from thin, tightly twisted strands.
How to choose a wick? trial method. To make it easier, focus on the table above – it will help with the initial choice. Then, based on the results of combustion, you can understand how to change the parameters of the wick.
- If the flame goes out due to a large puddle of wax / paraffin, the wick is too thin, try a little thicker.
- If the flame is smoking, the wick is curling, and the candle is “flowing”, you have used a wick that is too thick. Need thinner.
Gradually, with experience, it will be easier to choose the right thickness and type of twist the first time.
How to install the wick
The uniformity and duration of candle burning largely depends on the wick. One of the important points: it must be exactly centered and must be even. To install the wick in container candles, special holders are used. Wax is dripped into the center of the mold, a holder with a fixed thread is dipped into it. The second end of the thread is fixed exactly in the center on the upper edge of the form. This can be done with the help of clothespins, wound on a pencil or clamped in hair clips. In principle, the method is not important. It is important that the wick is exactly in the center.
In shaped candles (which, after casting and cooling, are pulled out of the mold), you can fix the wick as described above. Another option is to make a hole in the bottom, stretch the thread and make a knot. Seal the hole with tape or drip wax, wait until it hardens.
What to use for flavoring
To improve the aroma, aromatic substances are added to the candle base. In general, there are special fragrances for candles. It is easier to work with them if you are sure of the quality. Just add the recommended amount.
Many people prefer to make their own fragrances. In this case, aromatic oils can be used. It should be oils, not water or alcohol extracts. Another condition is that they must have an ignition temperature higher than 65°C. These are not all aromatic oils. Oil extracts of geranium, peppermint and lemon, anise, amyris, myra, lemon myrtle, sandalwood, cloves, rosewood, lemongrass, juniper, patchouli, ylang-ylang, lavandin (instead of lavender), patchouli, cinnamon, grape seed, bergamot are suitable .
Aroma oils are added to the already melted and colored composition, when it has already begun to cool, before pouring. The amount is counted in drops, oils are added with active stirring. It is impossible to specify the specific number of drops. Some formulations have a richer aroma and 3-5 drops per 100 grams of mass are enough, others are barely perceptible even with 20 drops.
Not all oil extracts in candles give a sufficient level of smell when burned. If you want a stronger scent, buy candle or soap perfumes. As a rule, they smell stronger.
Some solid oils also have a pleasant smell. They can be used both as a base and as a flavor. For example, coconut oil, shea butter, cocoa butter. When used, standard candle bases make up about 20-30% in recipes.
Candle dyes
Coloring wax is not easy. Ordinary dyes are not suitable. Neither food, nor watercolor, nor ordinary aniline dyes for fabric. There are special ones that are sold in art stores. These are wax-based aniline dyes. Their consumption is 3-5 grams per 1 kg of candle mass.
To get a white color, take clarified wax or paraffin. The addition of stearin will remove transparency and make it easier to remove from the mold. But to get a pure color, you will still need a dye.
If you do not want to buy special paints, you can add colored wax crayons. But things are not always smooth with them. Some do not stain the composition, just settle down, others can dissolve the wick or cause the formation of inhomogeneities, bubbles and other defects. In any case, dyes are placed together with wax and melted together (unless otherwise recommended).
You can also use natural dyes that contain some oils. For example, turmeric or annatto oil gives a yellow color, yarrow oil – blue, water extract of chili pepper – red. You can add cocoa – you get both color and smell, but the powder will settle down, which will give an uneven color. But it doesn’t always look bad.
Forms and containers
For casting shaped candles, glass or metal containers are used. Sometimes plastic glasses or jars are used. The plastic must be refractory. Sour cream or yogurt glasses are suitable for low melting formulations.
You can use tetra packs (packaging for juices, milk, etc.), cans from beer, drinks. You can also pour into silicone molds – it is even more convenient to pull out products from them. There is only one condition: in order to be able to pull out the candle, the container must have vertical or expanding walls. There are also detachable molds for candles. They are made of heat resistant plastic.
For easier removal, lubricate the mold walls with vegetable oil or special silicone grease. If the candle “does not go”, put it in the freezer for 15-20 minutes. You can also knock it on the edge of the table. Or something not very heavy on it. When she “moved” you can pull the wick. But do not overdo it – the wick can be pulled out. Then everything will have to be repeated from the beginning.
Please note that the container will have to be thrown away, because it is very difficult to wash it. You can, of course, be reused for casting, but they are no longer suitable for other purposes.
For non-shaped candles, transparent white or colored glass is usually used. They do not need to be pulled out, so the shape can be any.
How to make a candle: what you need and how to act
In addition to all the ingredients for candles, you will need some additional materials and equipment. First, what is needed for the candle itself: candle material, a wick with a holder. This is the minimum for a regular candle. Next, the flavoring agent, dye – for the colored aroma candles of the candle. This is enough to get started.
What do you need from the “equipment”
Melt the wax in a water bath. It is absolutely impossible to do this on direct fire. For a water bath, you will need two vessels of a similar shape, but different sizes. For candle material, you can use a tin can of a suitable size, and water can be heated in any container. It is important that the container with candle material does not reach the bottom, remains “afloat”.
When melting, the material cannot be overheated and cannot be underheated. It must be brought to the required temperature. So you need to control the temperature. To do this, you need a cooking thermometer. You also need a wooden or stainless steel stirring stick.
How and what to do
For beginner candlemakers, it is better to prepare a candle mold in advance and fix the wick in it. Once again, we pay attention that it should be strictly in the center. Put the finished form on an old saucer / plate / lid. This is in case something spills past or wax starts to flow out of an undetected hole.
Pour water into a large container to half the volume, bring to a boil. Put the candle material into a jar or a smaller container, put it in a water bath and wait until it starts to melt. As it begins to liquefy, add dyes, stir and monitor the temperature. As soon as it reaches the required level, remove the container from the water bath, cool a little to the filling temperature.
Just before you pour the wax into the mold, add flavorings and mix the composition again. Pour the mass into the mold to the required level, but be sure to leave about 10% for topping up.
We leave the freshly cast candle to cool at room temperature for 8-12 hours. The exact time depends on pouring temperature, wax, quantity/quality of dyes and flavors, and other conditions. Do not try to speed up the process by placing it in the refrigerator, on the balcony, or in another cool place. This leads to defects. After complete cooling, you can try to pull out the candle, if it is molded.
Some candles (usually stearin or with its additive) after cooling have depressions of a larger or smaller size on the surface. This is a normal phenomenon, which is eliminated by topping up. To do this, we left a certain amount of candle composition, and did not pour it all out. After the candle has cooled down, fill the crater with the molten residue and let it cool again. Large cavities may require topping up twice or thrice.