How to grow melons in the middle lane and which varieties to choose

Suitable varieties

In the middle lane, not all varieties of melon can be grown. The climate of these latitudes is characterized by a small number of warm and sunny days, frequent rains, and an average temperature of 20-25 ° C, while the cultivation of Asian varieties requires a temperature of 35 ° C and above. Therefore, southern varieties should not be planted in open ground, since they can grow in accordance with the variety only in their homeland.

For central Our Country, you need to choose varieties of early (60–70 days) and medium (80–90 days) ripening periods. As a rule, they have small (1,5–2,5 kg), but rather sweet and tasty fruits. About 80 varieties (hybrids) of European and Central Asian selection have been zoned for this territory. These subspecies are perfectly adapted to the climate of the middle zone and even the northern regions, they are practically not inferior in taste to their varietal types, and only the small size (weight) of the fruit distinguishes them from the original.

Almost all varieties or hybrids intended for cultivation in the middle lane are summer, ripen in 60–80 days, the fruits are small, not stored for long, so they are immediately eaten.

The most common varieties include:

• Kolkhoznitsa is the most famous mid-season variety, the fruits are small (up to 1,5 kg), round, with a greenish-orange peel, the flesh is white, very soft and juicy. Such a melon grows well and bears fruit not only in the conditions of central Our Country, but also in all countries of the former CIS.

• Cinderella is an ultra-early (55–65 days) hybrid, the fruits are small (1–1,5 kg), bright yellow with a barely noticeable openwork mesh, the flesh is white, very tender and juicy, has a sweet taste.

• Aikido is a new super-early hybrid, the fruits are small (up to 2 kg), the peel is yellow, slightly rough, the flesh is greenish-white, very sweet in taste (sugar is 10-13%). The variety is resistant to many diseases, including powdery mildew and late blight.

• Altaiskaya is an early (65–70 days) melon variety of West Siberian selection. The plant is distinguished by very powerful and long (up to 2 m) lashes. The melon itself is not large (0,9–1,3 kg), the peel is thin, intensely yellow in color with a pronounced mesh pattern, the flesh is yellow in the middle, and greenish closer to the edge, it tastes tender and juicy.

• Golden – a very common mid-season melon in central Our Country, undemanding to conditions, resistant to diseases. Small (1,5–2 kg) bright yellow fruits are distinguished by good transportability and preservation, the melon pulp is rich yellow, sweet, and very fragrant.

• Pineapple – mid-season (80-90 days) variety with golden-orange oblong fruits, the peel is thin, slightly rough, covered with a pronounced mesh pattern. The flesh is white, slightly pinkish, very sweet, with a characteristic taste and aroma of pineapple. A variety of this variety are melons Pineapple, Sweet pineapple F1, American pineapple.

• Skazka is an early ripe (60–65 days) variety included in the State Register of the Federation as a crop suitable for growing in any strip of the country. The fruits of this melon are small (1,5–1,8 kg), round, the flesh is juicy, crispy, sweet and fragrant.

• Assol is a mid-season (80–90 days) melon of West Siberian selection. The variety is universal – it is intended for cultivation in any lane, both in the garden and in greenhouses. Medium-sized (up to 1 kg) fruits of this melon have an original spotted or striped greenish-brown peel, soft white, sugary flesh.

These are the best varieties that are guaranteed to give a good harvest in the conditions of central Our Country, as they are specially zoned for this climate. In addition to them, you can try to grow many more varieties and hybrids, including: Scythian Gold, Kazachka, Luna, Millennium, Rainbow, Caramel, Roksolana and others.

Site and seed preparation

Since the melon is very thermophilic, for its cultivation it is necessary to select sunny areas protected from the northern winds. An ideal place for melons can be a southern slope, or an open garden bed, where the bright sun shines most of the day. For the beds, you can build a small elevation that will eliminate the stagnation of water – it is no secret that the culture tolerates drought more easily than excessive moisture.

Preparing the soil for growing melons begins in the fall. Grooves (planting pits) about 3 cm wide and 50–25 cm deep are dug on a bed measuring at least 30 m². The distance between the pits should be at least 70–80 cm. About 2 kg of humus or compost is introduced into each pit. If the soil is clayey, you can add some river sand or peat. In this form, the bed is left until spring.

As soon as the ground thaws, we get back to work. We dig up the bed again, add a mineral mixture with potassium and phosphorus to the soil, cover it with a film, and immediately before planting we add rotted manure again.

Some gardeners prepare a bed in the spring, just before planting – this option is also possible. And in this case, only organic matter is used. It should be said that melon can be perfectly grown on organic fertilizers alone. Planting pits are prepared in the same way, but at the same time a layer of soil 10–15 cm thick is removed, then humus, compost are placed on the bottom of the trench, and the removed soil is laid on top. The organic matter under the soil will generate heat and help the plants survive nighttime temperature changes.

Agrotechnics melon involves the preliminary preparation of seeds. Seed material can be prepared independently, but the melon is such a peculiar culture that it is not always possible to grow it from last year’s homemade seeds. The fact is that very often powerful bushes grow from them with a large number of lashes and peduncles, but without ovaries, since all the flowers on the plant are male.

To protect yourself from disappointment, it is safer to buy seeds in specialized stores or sow seeds harvested 3-4 years ago.

The largest and fullest seeds are selected for planting. Their preparation consists in disinfection and hardening of the material. It is better to process a melon with a solution of boric acid and zinc sulfate, but some gardeners use a common solution of potassium permanganate for this. The seeds are placed in the solution for 12 hours, after which all the floating ones are removed, since they are not suitable for planting.

Those seeds that have sunk to the bottom are recommended to be hardened. The procedure is a little troublesome, but it increases the immunity of plants to adverse weather conditions and diseases. It consists in the following: the seeds are placed in warm (35 ° C) water for several minutes, then they are taken out and kept for a day at a temperature of 18–20 ° C. After that, the temperature is lowered to 0 ° C and the seeds are kept for another 18–20 hours. Then a day later, the degree is again raised to 18–20. This procedure should be carried out 2-3 times during the last week before disembarkation.

Seedling

In the conditions of central Our Country, it is easier to grow a melon from seedlings. Seeds are planted in pots in mid-April, so that by the end of May, when the threat of night frosts has passed, the plants can be transplanted into open ground. It is recommended to plant seeds in disposable containers, since the melon does not tolerate transplanting very well, and plants can be removed from disposable pots along with the soil mixture.

The soil for growing seedlings is prepared from 2 parts of humus, 1 part of peat and 1 part of turf. A little superphosphate or ash is added to this mixture – fertilizers are planted to a depth of about 2 cm. Seeds are planted in holes of 2-3 pieces. Then, when the plants germinate, the weakest shoots are removed. Before germination, containers can be covered with glass or film. Every day, the cover should be removed for a few minutes to ventilate. In the same way, seedlings can be sown immediately in the greenhouse.

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Landing

In central Our Country, melon seedlings are planted in open ground at the end of May. But if the weather has not yet settled, the landing dates can be postponed to the first decade of June. At the time of planting in the ground, plants should have 4-5 true leaves.

After transplanting, the seedlings are placed under a temporary (for 2 weeks) film cover, which will protect the bushes from a night drop in temperature.

On an already prepared bed, shallow holes are dug, on the bottom of which a layer of compost is laid (humus can be used). Each well is watered with warm water, and without waiting for the water to be absorbed, plants are planted. Fill the holes with dry earth. No more watering is needed, as a crust will form after watering.

You can grow a melon in the climate of this strip not only from seedlings, but also by sowing seeds directly into the ground. Sowing is carried out not earlier than the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 18 ° C (measurement is carried out in the morning). Seeds are sown no later than the first week of June. Holes for melons are dug shallow, so that the seeds go deep into the soil by 3 cm. The earth in the hole is mixed with a handful of ash, then the bottom of the hole is watered, and 2–3 prepared seeds are planted.

Care

The agrotechnics of growing melons involves a complex of caring measures, consisting of watering, loosening the beds, airing the plants, feeding, forming bushes and thinning the ovaries.

Many gardeners prefer to grow crops in greenhouses. In warm weather, the temperature and humidity in such structures can be very high, so the greenhouse must be regularly ventilated – just open the doors during the day. The same must be done if the bed is covered with a film – for the day the shelter must be removed completely.

Melon does not like moisture very much, so it does not need intensive watering. Water should be watered as needed: during the period of active growth of the tops, watering should be regular, with the appearance of flowers and ovaries – moderate (1 time / 5-7 days), and closer to fruit ripening – minimal.

Feeding will help to grow juicy and fragrant fruits. Of course, the taste qualities largely depend on the variety, but without potassium and phosphorus, a quality melon harvest is rare. Top dressing can be combined with watering. When flowering, the bushes are watered with a solution of superphosphate, after two weeks, potassium nitrate, or any mixture containing potassium, can be added. A week after planting the seedlings in the garden, the plants are sprayed with a boron solution.

After each watering, the bed must be loosened to prevent the formation of a crust. Also, the surface can be mulched with straw. For varieties that are distinguished by powerful lashes, they construct supports (trellises). These structures provide full access of the sun and air to plants, and fruits in particular, which ensures their uniform ripening.

The main agricultural technique that allows you to grow large and tasty fruits is the formation of bushes. This procedure includes pinching the shoots and removing excess ovaries. The young plant is pinched as soon as 5 leaves grow on it. The top of the shoot is broken off over the fourth leaf, and they are waiting for new shoots to grow from the axils of the remaining leaves. As soon as they reach 5 leaves, they are also pinched over the fourth leaf.

This procedure is done three times, since the ovaries can form only on the lashes of the fourth order. When the bush grows and ovaries form on it, it is necessary to leave 1-2 of the strongest on each shoot, and remove the rest. In general, about 5-6 of the largest fruits should remain on one bush.

Harvesting

Melon is harvested in technical ripeness. This is the period when the fruit has completely acquired the color of the peel characteristic of the variety and the specific melon aroma.

It is very important to remove the melon during the period of full maturity, since unripe fruits, like overripe ones, do not have a good taste and aroma.

To grow a sweet melon, you need to know some secrets. If the melon ripens on the ground, then the heat and the sun’s rays, as a rule, penetrate it only from above – fruits that have a lighter color on the one hand are not uncommon. Accordingly, half of the fruit, which received healing sunlight, will be more sugary and juicy. In order for the fruits to ripen evenly, they must be periodically carefully turned over.

It is desirable to remove a melon from a bush in dry, but not hot weather. The ripe fruit is easily separated from the stems along with the tail.

Unfortunately, all summer varieties of melons intended for cultivation in this strip do not differ in long-term storage. They lie for a maximum of 2-3 weeks. If placed in a refrigerator or cellar, the shelf life can be extended. But another significant drawback of any summer variety is that during long-term storage, the fruits lose their taste and aroma.

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