How to choose a riveter (riveter): types, types, which one is better

Welding is a great way to join metals, but it’s not always convenient or feasible. The alternative is riveting. But to install rivets, you need to choose a riveter. How to do this, read on. 

What is a riveter and how does it work

Riveters or riveters are devices for setting rivets. There are special tools for different types of fasteners. There are separate for exhaust, screw rivets. There are also universal models, but they belong to the group of professional tools, respectively, they cost a lot.

To choose the right riveter, it is advisable to understand how it works. Regardless of the type of rivet that the unit works with, the principle of riveting is always the same: the device expands the second (far) part of the rivet, forming a closing head. Only the way of flaring can differ:

• When installing blind rivets, the rod is captured and pulled by the sponges. At the end of the rod there is a ball that rests against the edge of the rivet body and crushes it. When a certain force is reached, the rod breaks off.
  

  

• The installation of screw rivets is different. A thread is applied inside the hollow body. A screw of suitable diameter is screwed into this hardware. When twisting, it begins to tighten the edge of the rivet, due to which the ductile metal expands (see video below).
• When installing hollow rivets (piston), the flaring with a cone-shaped nozzle takes place. Piston rivets are used in unloaded places, but more often not in construction, but for finishing or when joining parts made of leather, fabric, etc.
  

  

In general, the process is clear. As you can see, the only difference is that in one case it is necessary to pull the rod, in the other – to turn the screw, in the third – the cone nozzle is pressed. When choosing the type of rivet, please note that the tool for exhaust rivets is inexpensive, but for screw rivets it usually costs a lot. This basically limits the use of screw rivets. Well, and the fact that they are hollow is leaky.

Choose the type of drive

Before choosing a riveter, you need to understand what they are. Let’s start with the drive.

• Manual (power). To install the rivet, you need to squeeze the handles. Sometimes you have to make a solid effort – for hardware with a diameter of 5 mm or more. The most reliable and inexpensive. This is a justified choice if the tool is bought for a one-time use – to mount the roofing material, put up a fence, sew up the slopes.
  

  

• Electrical. There is almost no effort – to hold the tool and pull the trigger. More expensive, but also more productive models.
  • From the network. Not too expensive, so you can buy for domestic use. But not every construction site has a source of electricity, and cords / extension cords are a hassle.
  • Rechargeable. With the same performance, they are more mobile, but weigh more (the battery itself also has weight), and they are more expensive.
    

    

• Pneumatic and pneumohydraulic. The most reliable and productive tool. But it is worth buying only for professional use. You also need a compressor.

Video review of the cordless riveter MILWAUKEE 2550-20 M12 RIVET TOOL.

For domestic use, buy manual riveters. But even this “simple” tool is not easy to choose. First of all, the range of prices is surprising – from $ 5 to several hundred dollars. How to navigate here? Let’s say right away that it’s definitely not worth taking too expensive for a one-time use, as well as too cheap. The rest needs to be figured out.

Types of manual (mechanical) riveters

There are three types of manual rivet setters:

• one-handed;
• two-handed;
• accordion.

Single-handed are designed for fasteners of small size – up to 5 mm. They differ in that the working handles are at an angle of 90 ° to the installation axis. That is, the handles are directed downwards. It is convenient that you can work with one hand. The disadvantage is the small “range” of sizes that the device can handle.

Two-handed are large in size, they can also be installed with rivets of large diameters – up to 8 mm. You can distinguish by appearance – long handles that are in the same plane with the working sponges. It makes sense to choose a two-handed riveter if you plan to use large diameter rivets.

Mechanical riveters “accordion” are more often used with large fasteners. The presence of the very “accordion” allows you to install large-sized fasteners with less effort. Such a device usually has a more expensive tool, it is more often used by professionals.

Choosing the type of hand riveter is not too difficult. If you need a reliable machine, choose from two-handed models. Their device is simpler, there is almost nothing to break. At normal quality, they are indestructible. If you will install only small fasteners – no more than 2-3 mm, then it is more advisable to take a one-handed one. They are more comfortable to work with.

Selection Criteria for Manual Rivet Setters

So, if you need to choose a manual riveter, pay attention to the following parameters:

• The type of fasteners with which the unit works (screw, exhaust, piston (grommets), station wagon – which puts all types of rivets).
• Maximum and minimum rivet size.
• The number of nozzles for rivets.
• The material of fasteners with which the tool works (steel, aluminum or only copper and brass).
• What is the instrument made of? Better – stainless steel or aluminum alloys.
  

  

Another thing to look out for is the handles. Rubber pads on them should be made of good rubber. The handles themselves should be comfortable for you, so you can work faster and longer. Also pay attention to the possibility of fixing the handles in a non-working state – there is a special wire loop that holds the handles together. When storing it is convenient and important.

Choice of pull riveter

Most often you have to work with exhaust (traction) rivets. They are comfortable and inexpensive. Not too much is the tool to install them. In addition to the parameters listed above, in order to select a riveter for blind rivets, you also need to pay attention to some special characteristics and options.

• Number of clamping jaws (petals) in the collet. The tool grabs the stem and pulls it, forming a closing head. So, there can be two or three petals. Two-petal ones are cheaper, but when captured, the rod can warp and get stuck. You have to take it apart and reassemble it. It’s inconvenient and time is running out.
  

  

• The presence of a ratchet. When working with strong rivets (steel), it is important to correctly calculate the force. The ratchet helps with this.
• Container for collecting broken rods. In the process of work, the excess rod breaks off. If there is no container, they often end up underfoot, then they have to be collected. The presence of capacity solves the problem, but has almost no effect on the price.

Now you know how to choose a riveter for blind rivets. Having picked up several models that suit you according to their characteristics, inspect them and hold them in your hands. If possible, try a couple of times at work. So it will be easier to understand which tool is more convenient for you to work with and it will be easier to make a choice.

Nozzle for a drill / screwdriver and features of choice

With a large front of work using manual riveters, the hands get very tired. Of course, there are rechargeable batteries, but the price for them is not at all encouraging. And if you also use it only occasionally, it is not advisable to buy a power tool. In this case, you can make a compromise – purchase a nozzle for a drill or a screwdriver for installing rivets.

This is a small adapter (nozzle) that is inserted into the cartridge. They are available for screw and blind rivets. If desired, you can find other types of fasteners.

The principle of operation of a drill with a nozzle for blind rivets is no different – the tool still pulls on the pin, then it breaks off. That’s just the broken “tails” you have to get yourself, switching the drill to reverse. In the case of using screw rivets, a reverse is also required – to remove the nozzle from the installed fasteners.

The choice of rivet nozzles for a drill is similar: by type, size and material of nozzles. Well, the shank must fit the power tool chuck. Also note the presence of a handle. This is a non-critical parameter, but improves usability. A drill with a wound nozzle is heavy and unstable. Therefore, when working, it is imperative to hold the nozzle with your hand, fixing its position. In order not to hold on to the nozzle, put on the handle. In this embodiment, the unit is more convenient to use, it turns out to more accurately control the position.

How to choose a riveter: manufacturers and prices

When choosing a particular model, many rely on prices. That’s just the spread is very large – there are very cheap and almost one to one in appearance, but many times more expensive. Even ten times more expensive. It’s worth saying right away that even for one-time work, buying a very cheap riveter is too risky. It may not work at all or work through a stump-deck.

If you only want to rivet a fence, for example, even in this case you will have to install more than one hundred rivets. If you have to disassemble the tool after every 2-3 rivets, you will definitely not like it. To choose a riveter that works well, look at the average price range.

• Stanley MR 99. Stanley is the oldest American company.
• NOBUS. Inexpensive, reliable tool.
• Gesipa. A well-known company, but not everyone praises it. Definitely there are cheaper ones that work at least as well.
• YATO handles steel rivets better than Chinese aluminum rivets.
  

  

• NWS is a German office. The quality of the instrument is top notch.
• Topex. In some models, I liked the ability to rearrange the “nose” by 90 degrees. It is convenient if you have to work in hard-to-reach places.
• KRAFTOOL. All tools are good and riveters too.

If you intend to use a riveter in professional activities, you need to choose a more expensive one. Firm – at your discretion, but from the category of professional or semi-professional models. Perhaps they do not differ structurally, but have a longer resource, service life. That is, they are made more reliably and efficiently. And this explains the difference in price – more expensive / high-quality materials were used.