How to choose a concrete mixer for home, cottages, designs, materials, volume, reviews

During construction or repair work, concrete is required: to strengthen the fence posts, knead the mortar for masonry or pour the foundation under the gazebo, shed, etc. Kneading in the trough is long and physically hard. Therefore, it is better to think about purchasing a concrete mixer. It is worth saying that the solution prepared in a concrete mixer is 50% stronger than the one made by hand, with the same composition of the components. It remains to figure out the question of how to choose a concrete mixer.

Concrete mixer designs

To choose a concrete mixer, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic structures. There are two types of agitators: forced kneading and gravity agitators. Forced ones consist of a fixed container, inside which the mixing blades rotate. Due to the design features, they only work with mortars – without large aggregates, they also require more powerful engines, and, accordingly, consume more electricity.

For domestic use, gravity concrete mixers are more suitable. This is a barrel-shaped container, inside of which strips-blades are welded. The container rotates around its axis, can change position relative to the horizon. With an inclined tank, the most intensive mixing occurs. This design allows you to make a solution of cement + sand or concrete – cement + sand + gravel or other coarse aggregate.

There are two types of drives – gear and crown. Geared ones are more reliable, but their repair can be difficult. The crown structure breaks more often, however, replacing the crown is a matter of a couple of hours and a relatively small amount – 1000–2000 rubles. depending on the material of the crown. This led to the popularity of crown-type gravity concrete mixers.

What to look for when choosing a crown mixer

The choice of any tool is not an easy task. And in a concrete mixer, there are three different parts that affect performance and durability: the frame, the tank, and the motor. And you need to consciously choose all these parameters, and also take into account a bunch of nuances. Then choosing a concrete mixer will be easy.

Mixing tank (pear)

The first thing you have to decide is the volume of the container for kneading. The range is very large: from 30-40 liters to 200-300 liters. The most popular among developers are concrete mixers with a volume of 130-160 liters. But this is far from dogma. Someone prefers to have two concrete mixers of 80 liters instead of one large one. But in general, for home use or for summer cottages, they mainly buy concrete mixers with just such tanks. They are optimal in terms of performance, weight, and allow both performing more voluminous work – pouring foundations, and more modest ones – concreting fence posts, for example, or mixing mortar for laying bricks, etc.

When deciding on the size of the tank, keep in mind that in reality you will receive concrete about half of the declared volume. The thing is that when mixing, the container must be tilted. And the denser the solution you need, the greater the angle of inclination will be – while standing, the concrete mixer mixes almost nothing. It is called gravitational, because the solution sticks to the walls of an inclined barrel, is picked up by the blades, and then, under the influence of gravity, falls down. This is how mixing happens. It is clear that you will not load the inclined container completely – half will simply fall out. You determine the specific loading sizes later, during work. And you can focus on average figures: thick concrete will be about 50% of the total volume, more plastic about 65%. The solution is even less (due to the presence of crushed stone, the concrete mixes better).

When you are already choosing a concrete mixer “live”, pay attention to the thickness of the walls of the tank. Of course, what is better – thicker walls. But a thick-walled tank is an increased weight. So you will have to decide what is more important here – easier movement or a more reliable tank.

Motor power

After you have decided on the volume, you need to decide what power the motor will suit you. Actually, how much concrete you get at a time also depends on the power of the motor. The more powerful the motor, the heavier the tank it can crank. On average, it can be calculated as follows:

• for 170 liters, optimally 750 W;
• per 130 liter — 500 V.
  

Approximately these figures can be guided. In any case, for long-term operation of the motor, it is necessary to start the concrete mixer empty, or almost empty – with a very small mass. And load the components into an already working one. Many unload the batch without stopping work. This is also correct and contributes to a longer operation.

gear and ring material

The gear should definitely be made of metal, maybe cast iron, but steel is better. Also pay attention to the shaft to which the drive gear is attached. It should be powerful enough (some cheap Chinese models have a very thin shaft), and also have very little play. The smaller it is, the better.

Disputes are ongoing over which crown material is better. The crown is the teeth, around the circumference of the mixing tank, for which the belt clings. They are made of steel, heavy-duty plastic (polymers) and cast iron. The most common are cast iron or polymer. If you believe your feelings, cast iron should be stronger. But in fact, polymer ones are at least no less reliable and durable. Almost all owners of concrete mixers with a plastic crown talk about this. There are several other arguments in favor of polymers:

• A plastic crown costs less than 1000 rubles and changes a few tens of minutes. Cast iron costs three to four times more.
• Concrete mixers with a plastic crown are much quieter than those with cast iron or steel teeth.
  

But it’s up to you to choose. And if polymers do not inspire confidence in you, buy with cast iron or steel teeth.

A few operating recommendations that will extend the life of the crown of any material:

• Crowns are worn down due to sand, cement, dust falling on them. To protect them, you can make a visor (made of rubber, for example), which covers these same teeth.
• Periodically clean the teeth with a dry, clean brush.
• Don’t grease them with anything. Grease powdered with sand is an excellent abrasive and is guaranteed to erase any material.

Swivel device

As already mentioned, during the operation of a concrete mixer, it is often necessary to change the position of the tank. It is more convenient if the rotary mechanism is made in the form of a wheel, and not a lever. Also pay attention to the number of positions in the tank. The more of them, the easier it will be for you to choose a mode.

Details of construction

To finally choose a concrete mixer, go to the design details:

• Capacity for concrete is established on a bed. The frame must be strong and stable.
• The concrete mixer often needs to be moved around the site. Most models have wheels. It is clear that the larger they are, the easier it will be for you to drag it from place to place.
• The shape of the blades inside the tank. Just welded flat plates are not the best option, curved ones are better.
• Material of a protective casing of the motor. It is made of plastic or painted metal. Metal, of course, is more reliable, but is rare.

How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, read here. 

Prices and quality

In general, these are all the main points that will help you choose a concrete mixer exactly for your requests and needs. There is still the question of price. As with any other product, there are three categories:

1. Cheap Chinese concrete mixers. If you pay attention to all the details described above (especially the thickness of the shaft and the backlash of the gear, as well as the thickness of the metal of the container), it is quite possible that you will be lucky and it will work without breakdowns. In extreme cases, it will be necessary to grind worn parts. The main thing is that it is subject to repair. The best option is if you find a model with an exchange for the duration of the warranty period. This also happens. Usually all the “jambs” climb out in the first year, so the option is really good.
2. Average Russian brands. Usually quite reliable, maybe a little clumsy. A fairly popular group among those who strive to get reliable equipment for reasonable money.
3. European brands. Everyone is good, except for the price and the fact that the problem with spare parts is not always easily solved – you have to wait several weeks until the right one is delivered. But I must say they are the most reliable.

Reviews

Choosing a concrete mixer according to the parameters is not all. We still need to decide on the brand, and this can be done mainly based on reviews. This is the only way to get an idea of ​​how reliable or not the units of a particular manufacturer are. There are too many brands of concrete mixers and it is simply unrealistic to give reviews for each brand. We have collected the most popular ones due to optimal quality and price.

SBR Lebedyansky plant

I decided to save money when buying, and bought a BSM concrete mixer (I don’t remember exactly which numbers). Made a big mistake when buying. I chose a small volume – something about 50 liters. I had to stir often. It’s not a job, it’s a complete mess. And I also didn’t like the design: it was hard to turn over even a small tank full of solution. Then the drum fell off. I welded it three times, then I bought a new one – the SBR of the Lebedyansky plant. The volume has already taken 130 liters, but it could have been more. Has been working for 5 years. So far there has been no repair.

Not everyone speaks like that about SBR concrete mixers. There are also negative experiences.

I bought SBR-170 ($350). After 10 batches of mortar (not concrete, but mortar), the seat at the plastic pulley licked off. I bought a new pulley (about $ 8), put it on, it was enough for another 10 batches. He removed the shaft and gears, gave them to the turners to turn the steel shaft and put the gears on the keys. While Tokaya was working, I bought a Czech stirrer – $ 70 more expensive than SBR. The pulley is also plastic, but of a larger diameter. So far from the problems — the strap has screwed up. Both have a cast-iron wreath, it is necessary to monitor its cleanliness. The neighbor, by the way, was also reanimated by the SBR by replacing the pulley with a home-made one and a better fit of the gears. So I have a negative attitude towards this concrete mixer.

There are also positive reviews about the same SBR of the Lebedyansky plant:

I have been plowing the concrete mixer of the Lebedyansky plant for 7 years. I don’t remember the brand and volume, but something more than 100 liters. There are no problems with her. Once the foundation was poured from 7 am to 11 pm. Plowed almost without interruption and nothing, withstood. During this time, a small gear on the engine was worn out, but so far it works.

As you can see, the situation is ambiguous. There are two options. The first is the unstable quality of factory production, the second is the improper operation of the concrete mixer (start with a loaded tank, and not backfill in a spinning one).

ProRab (Prorab)

“Cheap” doesn’t always mean bad. For example, about a very budgetary line of concrete mixers, the Foreman speaks mostly positively. This does not mean that this tool does not have disadvantages. There are, but they are not critical and they just close their eyes, since the price is very small.

I bought a cheap Chinese mixer foreman (PRORAB) ECM 125. I worked for a season. Basically, I was lucky. She plows normally. Only I don’t give a full load, I pour a little more than half, and then sometimes I have to push with my hand. At first I was afraid. She hardly twisted, but it turned out that the voltage was 120-140 V. I put a stabilizer, it went fine. Already poured the entire foundation, and this is under 55 tons, so she worked her money (about $ 180). There were some difficulties at the beginning: I had to tighten the belt, as it almost dangled. But since everything is bolted, then by loosening the engine mount and the platform to which it is attached, everything was set so that the tension was perfect. I tightened the bolts, tightened well and that’s it.

I have a ProRab 160. It has been working for over a year now. During this time, he poured the foundation for the barn, heated floors in the house, and constantly made mortar for masonry. A total of 30 cubes is obtained. Only recently something has begun to growl in the teeth, but so far it has not stopped. In general, I saw almost new ones in the service, even with paint that was not peeling off – their engines are on fire. So who cares.

I rarely take a cheap tool, but based on the reviews I bought a Foreman concrete mixer in Leroy. Despite being cheap, it works well. Only at full load when unloading the solution can stop. I have adapted and do not load it completely, and if I see that the motor is barely pulling, they push it a little by hand when unloading. This is already on the machine and no difficulties arise. It makes noise, of course, great, but it also doesn’t really bother, and it’s also advisable to give it time to cool down – about 10-15 minutes. Since I work “in one hand”, this mode is natural for me.

In general, the reviews are positive. There are certain drawbacks, but they are fixable. An excellent inexpensive option for the house or the dacha.

Prof

To summarize, Profmash concrete mixers are reliable, but heavy and not always easy to use. Some models have “nicknames”: Maxim, Boomer, Behemoth. There are models of gear and crown type. Cast iron or polyamide crowns.

I have a concrete mixer Profmash B130R-MAXIM. Good machine. The tank is thick, attached to a cone, motor power is 850 watts. For such a small volume (130 l) more than enough. I tried to stop the tank during kneading by hand – it does not work. The stated amount of the solution received (80 l). But I use it not only for concrete. I’m still feeding. Works great. What I don’t like: painted without putty, the paint has already peeled off in places, the start / stop button is inconveniently located. You have to bend down and look under the engine.

I am a construction worker and I have a team of builders working for me. I buy tools for them myself. I bought a B-165 and have no regrets. Lasts the longest, despite the hard mode of operation. Yes, and they treat it – not in the best way: the solution is stuck – they beat it off with a sledgehammer or a hammer. And nothing. It’s bad that it’s heavy and the wheels are small, even the dimensions are large – it’s very difficult to get into the car. But the reliability outweighs the shortcomings.

Before the start of construction, I bought B180 Profmash. In principle, it’s normal, but it’s too hard to carry it alone around the site. A stubborn leg of some unsuccessful design, I cling to it all the time, the wheels are small. In short, transportation is not for the weak. It is also difficult to flip the tank alone. There is something wrong with centering. I thought to load on one side, pour on the other. It does not work – do not turn the tank over in any way. More: it is stated that 115 liters of batch can be prepared. I never succeeded, it turns out no more than 80 liters. In general, the rating is 4.

Vortex

This brand does not have the best reviews. What is strange, “sores” are all different.

Bought VORTEX BM-125. Problems started immediately: it works for 30 minutes and the mine turns off for 20. Again, it lasts for 30 minutes. And this is not at full load. I sent it in for repair, I’m waiting for a miracle.

This is my first concrete mixer Whirlwind BM-125. What to say. It works and it’s good. But the problems started during assembly. The one who completed it, it seems, was drunk: half of the fasteners were missing. I had to go shopping, pick up. Moreover, in the sealing cutter, which is placed between the two halves of the tank, there are extra holes, but not necessary ones. I had to make new ones, and water leaks through the extra ones until everything is mixed up. And yet it is much easier to make concrete this way than by hand. That’s why I don’t regret it.

I have a BM 160. After two months of periodic use, the tank on the axle began to sway. Looks like the bearing is loose. Now the headache is where to fix it.

As you can see, not the best choice.