How to assemble an electrical panel for 220 and 380 V with your own hands in a private house, apartment and garage with automatic machines and RCDs - ElektrikExpert.ru

Contents

General provisions – functions, purpose, voltage
Where is the electrical panel installed and how to install it
Installation requirements
Types and sizes of electrical panels
What should be in the dashboard – composition, elements
Choice of modular equipment
Grouping principle
Charting
What wires to assemble the shield
The number of places in the shield and their calculation
Do you need a UZO?
We assemble a shield in an apartment with a machine gun and an RCD
How to smear a shield into a wall – a tool, workflow
Assembling a shield in a private house for 3 phases or 380 Volts
Features of installation in the garage
Results

When organizing wiring in a garage, apartment or private house, it is necessary to take into account many points – load, number of phases, voltage, conductor cross-section, etc. Below we will not dwell on all issues, but let’s talk about the most important thing – how to assemble an electrical panel for 220 and 380 V.

This is the most important issue, because not only ease of maintenance depends on the correct installation, but also other factors – reliability, timely shutdown, safety for users, and more.

General provisions – functions, purpose, voltage

Electrical panel – a device made of metal or plastic, designed to mount automatic machines, RCDs and other equipment in it.

The main features of the product include:

Receiving wires or cables from an external source with their subsequent output to consumers of electricity (sockets, switches, boilers, etc.). In the case of a house or garage, the cable can go directly from the 0,4 kV power line. The situation is typical for an apartment when the wires come to the electrical panel from the access panel located on each floor.
Protection of electrical wiring from short circuit, overvoltage and other emergency conditions. Here it is necessary to clarify that it is not the box itself that protects, but the devices that are in it.
Providing a place for mounting protective equipment and automation.

If we talk about the electrical panel, as a single mechanism, its task is to receive and transmit electricity, protect the network from emergency modes and turn it off in a timely manner for safety purposes.

Taking into account the functionality of the electrical panel, it is important to assemble it thoughtfully, follow the rules of the PTE and PUE, and also make preliminary calculations.

As for the supply voltage of the shields, two options are available here – for 220 or 380 Volts. The first solution is suitable for an apartment, and the second – for a private house or garage, as well as in other objects with the need for a three-phase power supply.

Where is the electrical panel installed and how to install it

When choosing a place for mounting an electrical panel, you need to focus on convenience and safety. As a rule, it is installed as close as possible to the entrance to the room.

In a situation with a private house or garage, installation on the street is possible, subject to protection from water and other negative natural influences.

In the apartment, the electrical panel is mounted near the front door from the side where the wires enter from the landing (for ease of installation).

Additional requirements relate to the installation height (should be between 140 and 170 cm) and ease of access. It is desirable that the approaches to the equipment be as free as possible.

As for fastening, there are several types:

Outdoor. In this case, the product is fixed to the wall. Suitable for garages where there are no big design requirements.
Interior. For houses and apartments, it is recommended to put an electrical panel inside the wall. In this case, the product is not visible, and it does not spoil the interior design. Even the outer cover can be sealed for masking.

In the case of the installation, a number of strict requirements are distinguished, which we will discuss below.

Installation requirements

Before installing and assembling the electrical panel, it is important to familiarize yourself with the requirements prescribed in the regulatory documentation.

Let’s highlight the main points:

If the switchboard is installed on the floor or staircase, then it should be located no more than 3 meters along the length of the wire from the main supply shaft.
In 1 and 2-storey knowledge, an electrical panel can be placed outside the house, provided that the product has the necessary degree of protection against moisture and other influences. It is also recommended to take into account the risks of flooding.
Placement in basements or undergrounds of a technical nature is allowed, provided that there is access to the cabinet for maintenance.
The electrical panel must be located in a niche, box or closed with a casing.
The distance from gas meters, pipelines, sewerage, heating or other communications must be more than 50 cm.
When installing shields in special shield or closable niches, it is allowed to use a structure without doors and side walls.
It is forbidden to assemble an electrical panel under the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, shower room, bathhouses and other objects with a high risk of flooding.
In places of installation of electrical panels for 380 or 220 V, branches, taps, hatches, valves for water, heating or gas pipes are not allowed.
The indoor temperature should be more than +5 degrees Celsius, lighting and ventilation are required.
When choosing wiring, it is allowed to use wires with aluminum or copper conductors.

Following the above requirements allows you to avoid many troubles in the form of flooding of the electrical panel, damage to it or a short circuit.

Types and sizes of electrical panels

When planning work, it is important to determine the dimensions and type of electrical panel for installation in a house, apartment or garage.

Such structures are of three main types:

Floor. Mounted directly on the floor surface or a special stand, subject to the above requirements.
Embedded. They are installed in a special recess made for them in the wall. This means that only the cover is visible from the outside, while the entire body is inside the wall.
Overhead. Such switchboards are mounted on a support, wall or other structure. The peculiarity is that the casing is on the surface.

What should be in the dashboard – composition, elements

The scheme of elements in the electrical panel is one of the main nuances that you need to pay attention to.

As a rule, the following devices are mounted inside the device:

Introductory machine. Its functions include protecting wiring in a house, apartment or garage. For convenience, before entering, you can install a knife switch to get a visible break and quickly turn off the power.
Electric meter. It is mounted after the machine at the input and takes into account the consumed electricity. Sometimes a meter is installed up to the shield along with a circuit breaker. As a rule, such a scheme is used on landings in multi-storey buildings.
RCD is a device that provides a protective shutdown. For reliability, it is recommended to install an RCD on each supply line. The product monitors the incoming and outgoing current with a trip in case of large discrepancies in these parameters.
Machines on different branches. Each line has its own AB. For example, in apartments and houses, three such machines are used – for lighting, high power consumers and other electrical receivers. Such circuit breakers have a lower trip current so that in the event of a short circuit, only the damaged section is turned off, and not the entire power supply.
Differential circuit breaker. This is a universal option that can replace the usual AV and RCD.
DIN rail – a metal structure designed for mounting equipment on it. It is fixed on the back wall of the electrical panel. The number of DIN rails may vary. To avoid errors, it is recommended to make a wiring diagram and calculate the number of installed modules.
Tires connecting. They are used to connect and combine working zeros and ground wires. The shield uses both grounding and neutral bus-terminals.
Tires are distributive. They are mounted in order to provide communication between the equipment installed in the shield – automatic machines, RCDs, etc. With their help, it is possible to quickly combine equipment using a terminal block.

As a rule, these elements are enough to complete the electrical panel and the safe power supply of electrical receivers in an apartment, garage, house or other facility.

Choice of modular equipment

Before going to the store, it is necessary to draw up and coordinate with the master electricians a diagram of the electrical panel indicating all the ratings of the modular equipment.

Experienced engineers recommend using equipment from the following manufacturers – Hager, Legrand, ABB, Schneider Electric. The mentioned companies produce high quality equipment and guarantee stable operation.

To avoid difficulties with connection and installation, it is advisable to take equipment from the same manufacturer and series. This is due to the fact that the width of the module and other parameters in terms of dimensions may differ in different devices. As a result, there are difficulties with the installation of equipment in the electrical panel.

To carry out the work, you will need a mounting wire PV1 or PV3, having a cross section not less than for the input cable.

Most often, there is enough wire for four or six squares up to three or four meters long.

The marking of the phase wire (L) by the manufacturer can be: black, white, red, turquoise, brown, orange, gray, purple, pink. Brown, white and black are most often phase.

Earthing “PE” yellow-green. Do not confuse with working zero. Wire – working zero “N” has a blue color.

To connect the elements of the electrical cabinet, 1-, 2- and 3-pole combs are used, depending on the number of phases and the location of the equipment in the box. Their use allows you to save space inside the shield.

If there are group RCDs in the circuit, a zero bus is connected to each of the devices with fixation on a DIN rail.

As an alternative for the bus, you can use cross-modules that are in the same casing and separated from each other.

A useful element is a limiter for a DIN rail, which prevents the equipment installed in the electrical panel from slipping along the edges. In the absence of restraints and a large number of modular devices, it will be difficult to keep them.

The situation is even more complicated when using solid wires PV-1 or PV-3.

Of the additional equipment, you will need plugs for unused places, as well as plastic clamps for wire ties.

Grouping principle

Before assembling the electrical panel, understand the division into groups.

Let’s single out a number of load distribution rules:

The most powerful consumers (electric stove, boiler, oven, and others), having a power of 2 W or more, should be allocated to a separate group. Branches are prohibited in such lines. A solid cable, preferably copper, should go between the electrical panel and the consumer. To power such consumers, a wire of at least 000 squares of the VVGng, NYM type is used. The machine should have a rating of 2,5 A. With a power of more than 16 kW, the use of wires of a larger cross section is required – by 2, and sometimes 4 square meters. mm.
Outlet groups are distributed in such a way that each room has its own line with a wire of 2,5 square meters. mm. The main line can be branched to other outlets in the room.
The lighting part is also output to a separate machine. In this case, a copper wire of 1,5 square meters is used. mm, and the rated current AB is 10 A.

Thus, when planning an electrical network in a garage, house or apartment, it is advisable to separate the power section, lighting and sockets.

Charting

The issue of design is the most crucial moment, which is best entrusted to a specialist in his field.

The engineer draws up a one-line diagram indicating the installed devices and wire markings.

Under the main figure, consumer lines, power, cable used and other data are indicated.

Each device has its own marking:

H1 – knife switch, load switch.
H2, H3 … – automatic switches;
A1, F1, F2 … – RCD, etc.

On request, an engineer can make a diagram in several versions with detailed drawing of all elements and marking. Much depends on the performer’s knowledge of special programs and the ability to use them.

What wires to assemble the shield

When choosing wires, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors – laying conditions, the installation location of the electrical panel, the presence of free space nearby, etc.

The use of aluminum wires is not recommended due to excessive fragility and the ability to withstand less load (when compared with copper conductors).

When choosing between single-core and multi-core, it is better to give preference to the first option. The reason is that such wires are easier to lay, and externally the installation will look neater.

Stranded wire is suitable for cases where there is not enough space in the shield and you have to look for free space for laying wires.

Let’s summarize briefly:

Monolithic conductors are easy to bend, connect and lay.
Flexible (stranded) wires are easier to assemble, but there are difficulties when connecting to screw terminals. In this case, you will have to tin the end or use a special NShVI tip, followed by crimping with a special tool.

If we talk about types, the following wires are used when installing electrical panels:

PV-1 – copper, one wire, single insulation, flexibility class – 1;
PV-3 – copper, stranded version, PVC insulation, flexibility class from 2 to 4 depending on the section;
PV-4 – copper, stranded version, PVC insulation, flexibility – class 4 and 5.

As for the section, it is necessary to take into account the load on each particular line. So, wires of 2,5 square meters. mm withstand current up to 25 A, and 4 sq. mm – up to 32 A. When connecting devices, jumpers between machines are used. They are made with a rigid or flexible wire. For reliability, it is better to use tires.

The number of places in the shield and their calculation

The equipment installed in the shield has standard dimensions. The main elements are mounted on a DIN rail that is 3,5 cm wide. A single-pole AB has a size of 17,5 mm, etc.

To determine the number of seats, do the following steps:

Decide what equipment will be in the shield (AV, RCD, voltage relay, etc.).
Estimate the dimensions for each module. For example, a single-pole AB occupies 17,5 mm, a two-pole – 35 mm, a three-pole – 52,5 mm. Single-phase and three-phase RCDs have dimensions of 35 and 70 mm, respectively. The difavtomat for one phase occupies 70 mm. One DIN rail terminal block module requires 17,5 mm. The meter goes 105-140 mm, and the modular socket – 52,5 mm. The voltage relay will take 52,5mm.
Make calculations taking into account the load of the electrical panel.

For a better understanding, we give a brief calculation for a standard electrical panel for an apartment with an electricity meter.

It uses the following modules:

bipolar AB (two modules);
counter (six modules);
RCD (four modules);
six single-pole AB – six places;
zero tires for two RCDs – two places.

This means that the simplest shield requires at least 20 places, but it is better to take a product with a margin in case additional equipment is installed when the number of lines increases. The best option is a box for 24 modules, and the next is a box for 36 places.

Do you need a UZO?

Many people ask whether it is necessary to spend money on installing an RCD. For safety, this is a must. The task of such devices is to compare the input and output currents, detect leakage and turn off the power when a large difference appears.

The point is simple. In normal mode, the current readings at the input and output do not differ. If a person gets energized or another leak occurs, a difference appears in the RCD. This is enough for an instant shutdown.

For power lines and sockets, it is recommended to select a 30 mA device. In this case, the rated current must be the same as that of the AB.

If we are talking about a room with high humidity, it is better to take an RCD with a current of 10 mA.

The device can be placed on any one line or group. As an alternative, you can install a difavtomat that combines the AB and RCD options.

We assemble a shield in an apartment with a machine gun and an RCD

Now let’s deal with the question of how to assemble an electrical panel for 220 or 380 V with your own hands. For convenience, we will consider each stage in detail.

Housing assembly

The subtleties of fastening depend on the type of cabinet. Difficulties rarely arise with an outdoor installation product, because such a box is fastened with long self-tapping screws (four or six).

With built-in installation, the situation becomes more complicated, because it is necessary to knock out part of the wall.

The most difficult thing is to mount the electrical panel in concrete.

A little easier in a brick wall. The most convenient solution is to create a “fake” drywall wall with a protrusion of approximately 10 cm.

When installing the shield, consider a few rules, which were mentioned above.

Let’s briefly review the main ones:

humidity level up to 60%;
availability of heating, ventilation and airing;
distance to slopes and doorways – from 15 cm or more;
lack of nearby gas and water pipes;
distance from the floor – 140-170 cm.

Before installation, marking is done using a level, and then a niche is created for the dimensions of the shield, taking into account the height, width and depth. During the work, a grinder and a puncher are used.

In hard-to-reach places, you will have to use a hammer and chisel. After creating the desired recess, holes are made for fastening with dowels, and the cavity remaining around the perimeter is clogged with foam or mortar.

We will discuss the issue of internal installation in more detail below.

How to insert cables correctly

Little attention is paid to the issue of cable entry, but the ease of installation of the equipment and the correct distribution of it in the electrical panel depend on this.

Special openings are provided in the bottom or side of a standard box. They can be closed with decorative plastic or rubber. To apply them, just press the surface with a tool or finger.

Most often, such connectors are designed to install corrugations with a thickness of 1,6 to 2,0 cm. All that is required is to break out the holes and bring the cables inside.

With the introduction of cable products into the hinged box, there are no difficulties. Another thing is when the cabinet is built into the wall. Fastening the cabinet after inserting the cables is not an easy task.

There are other problems associated with the lack of holes (sometimes you have to make them yourself) or with the fixation of products.

The easiest way is to use electrical panels with plugs.

After installation, the plate is dismantled, after which it remains to start the cable. When inserting the main cable, place it as close as possible to the input machine.

Next, the cable is pressed against a special bar or comb, after which it is fixed with clamps.

The next step is to remove the top insulation, after which the marking is done.

If there is dark insulation on the cable, you can use light tags and make the necessary inscriptions on them. By the same principle, all cables are inserted inside.

After fixing them, a plug is installed. With the help of a construction knife, everything superfluous is removed. After installation in the electrical panel, the plugs are fixed with screws.

Distribution of cables inside the shield

After entering the cables inside the electrical panel, it is necessary to measure the distance to the equipment. Next, remove the overall insulation from the cable to distribute the wires to your modules. Be careful not to damage the protection of the wires themselves. For these purposes, a special knife with a heel is used.

An important point in the distribution is the marking of wires. It can be done using narrow masking tape or special PVC tubes. It is necessary to mark the wires in strict accordance with the diagram.

When entering the cable into the electrical panel, it is desirable to make a distance that is twice the height of the cabinet. This approach allows you to carefully lay the wires and not worry that their length is not enough to connect to a particular device.

When entering the cable inside the cabinet, follow a certain algorithm – from left to right or from right to left.

Modular protection systems and their connection

As already noted, a whole group of modules is installed inside the cabinet – voltage relays, AB, RCDs, differential automata, knife switches, etc. The package depends on the tasks and installation site (garage, apartment or house).

It is not difficult to assemble a single-phase shield even with minimal knowledge in the field of electrics.

All devices are mounted on a DIN rail, which is installed in advance. Special fasteners are used to fasten the modules.

Then follow these tips:

Use different types of combs. Place the lead-in clamps between the comb and the terminal of the device.
Release one end of the neutral wire – it connects to the main zero bus.
Zero tires and zero outputs of all RCDs are combined with a blue wire.
Connections that are not used must be tightened with a screwdriver.
After completing the assembly of the electrical panel, the installation must be checked.

Be sure to check the terminals of the machines for the presence of voltage on them.

Protection of the electrical panel from finishing work

During finishing, you have to use a grinder, a puncher and other tools, which leads to the appearance of dust and dirt in the room. In such an environment, it is important to protect the electrical panel, because it will no longer be possible to clean it after installation.

The ideal option is to mount the product after finishing work is completed. Otherwise, there is a high risk of paint or putty getting on the surface of one of the modules.

To protect the interior of the shield, follow these steps:

Insulate the ends of the wires that are related to the input cable.
Remove the door, frame and other elements from the shield.
Lay the cut wires inside. At the same time, try to avoid bending.
Cut out a piece of cardboard and use it to make a lid that will cover the shield. Next, the surface is glued with masking or regular tape.

The above measures are sufficient to protect the electrical panel from contamination during installation work. If you skip this work, you can spend a lot of money replacing equipment or time cleaning it.

Electrical pre-assembly

On the Internet you can find many photos and step-by-step instructions on how to assemble an electrical panel for 220 or 380 V. But the work is not as simple as it seems.

Before performing the task, it is necessary to prepare a special tool:

Dielectric screwdrivers – for tightening wires.
Insulation stripper.
A set of pliers, round nose pliers.
Side cutters.
Hacksaw for metal.
Tester.
Construction knife.
Screwdriver with different nozzles.

Before starting work, decide on the layout of the equipment.

The following options are available here:

Linear scheme. First comes the load switch or introductory machine, and then the rest of the circuit elements – difavtomat and AB on the line. This scheme is used in most cases, because it is simple to implement. The downside is that in the case of a short circuit, it is more difficult to find a damaged line.
Group scheme. In this case, the load switch or introductory AB comes first, and then the linear automata. Most often, several AVs are placed under the control of one RCD.

After determining the scheme, you can arrange the modules and start tying them.

How to connect the machines in the shield

When connecting the machine, it is necessary to use the wiring project (diagram) and take into account a number of important rules.

Let’s highlight the main ones:

All connections between machines, including zero buses, are made with a wire of the same cross section. This is important, because the same current passes through zero, but in the opposite direction.
The connection of the machines is carried out from above, and the wires come out from below. This applies even to those devices that the manufacturer allows to connect to the lower terminals. If you take this approach as a rule, you can avoid confusion in the future. An exception is made only for those devices that do not have terminals on top at all.
When using a stranded wire for mounting, it is imperative to use NShVI lugs of a suitable section. Stranded wire cannot be clamped directly.
Two wires of different sections cannot be connected to one terminal of the machines. For example, if you install wires of 1,5 and 2,5 square meters under one connector. mm, the first wire will be poorly clamped and may pop out.
All switching is carried out using solid pieces of wire. It is forbidden to twist different wiring.

Errors in connecting the machines are fraught with consequences and the risk of equipment damage. That is why the installation of the electrical panel, if possible, should be carried out by a professional in his field.

Which is better to use – wire or tires

Many questions are asked about the choice between wires and buses. Before making a decision, it is important to consider the dimensions of the electrical panel. For a small box for several machines and a current of up to 40 A, it makes no sense to make taverns. You can use jumpers from ordinary wires.

For a more serious scheme, a tavern is more suitable.

The use of a connecting bus bar provides a number of advantages:

Best contact guarantee.
Increased reliability and ability to withstand a large load (up to 63 A). To reach such a parameter, it is necessary to take a wire with a cross section of 16 square meters. mm. This option is inconvenient, so it is better to use a tavern.
Servicing accuracy and safety. The use of a busbar makes the electrical panel more convenient from a service position.

Experts recommend installing comb tires in apartment schemes with two or more rooms, as well as in country houses.

Zero ground and tires

The use of a zero bus is a prerequisite for the operation of any network, including 220 and 380 V. The task of the zero bus is to distribute “zero” to the equipment connected to the electrical panel.

To this element of the circuit, a neutral wire is supplied from the support or from the access shield of the main cable. Then it diverges over all automata, creating a common contour. This is important, taking into account the requirements of the PUE.

Zero tires are of two types – open or in the form of copper strips with holes for screwing other wires.

Insulators are provided at the ends, with the help of which the device is mounted on the shield body or holder with insulation (when mounting on a DIN rail). Another option is tires with full plastic insulation.

The indicated types of tires are used as the main and additional zero supplier. In the second case, we are talking about RCDs on lines that should receive an individual zero.

Final assembly

After assembling the electrical panel and checking its operation, it is necessary to proceed to the installation of the product in its place (into a niche) and the connection of consumer lines. To do this, you must wait for the completion of all installation and other work.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

Remove voltage from the input cable. Hang an additional sign so that no outsider turns on the introductory machine. As a last resort, ask someone to stand near the shield or lock it.
Remove the protective cardboard that was installed on the shield. Carefully remove all the wires, straighten them and bend them up and down. If any building materials are found inside, remove them.
Carefully install the DIN rail with the equipment mounted on it and fix it with self-tapping screws.
Set the main zero bus and protective zero. When cables enter from below, the PE busbar is installed at the top and vice versa. If there is free space, the main zero bar is mounted as close as possible to the cable entry, and if not, on the opposite side.
All wires are distributed in bundles. Phases are collected in one group, zero in another, and protective zero (PE) in the third. When distributing, it is necessary to look so that the wires intersect less with each other. During operation, keep the tags intact.
Route the PE wires to the appropriate bar. If there is room, make a slight bend so that later you can make changes to the installation. Make ties every five centimeters.
Consistently connect the protective zero to the PE busbar. First, bring it under the main terminal PE-wire for the main input, and then to the automatic machines for consumers. The excess ends of the wires must be cut off and stripped one centimeter with a stripper. In the case of using stranded conductors, pressing is carried out.
Make a safety zero mark. For this purpose, use cable markers or heat shrink with a preliminary indication of the number.
Ground the electrical panel if it is metal and connect to the PE busbar. At the same time, connect the door and the main compartment with a piece of yellow-green wire.
In the group of working zero wires, take those that are connected to the 0th busbars of group residual current devices. Make a protective bundle and secure it with zip ties on the left and right. In the case of turns, the bend must not exceed 90 degrees. Prepare the wires, strip them, fasten the markings and crimp (if necessary), and then connect to the bus.
The remaining zeros that do not belong to the main RCDs (those that go to the groups) come together to the 0th bus and are connected to the terminals in turn. Labeling is carried out in the same way.
A group of phase wires is laid on the other side of the shield from the 0 wires. If possible, cable boxes can be used. Their features allow you to make branches in the right places and fit the appropriate terminals of the equipment.
Lead the phase wires to the terminals AB and difavtomatov, and cut off the excess parts. Mark and crimp ends for stranded wires.
Connect the phase or working zero to the upper terminals of the input (AB or load switch).

At the final stage, make sure that the diagram is made correctly and corresponds to the project.

Once again, pay attention to the markings and the fact that it has remained in place.

An equally important point is the installation of a metering device. Two options are possible here:

Calling the controller who comes, performs the installation and puts the seal.
Installation is done by an electrician, and an employee of the energy sales organization checks the correct connection and puts a seal.

When choosing any of the options, agree in advance the time and day when you need to make the connection. If you do the work yourself and start using the wiring without installing a seal, you can run into serious fines.

Commissioning works

After the assembly of the electrical panel is completed, the next stage begins, concerning the commissioning. To begin, turn all devices installed in the box to the off position.

Next, take these steps:

Before starting the test, mount all equipment, namely switches, sockets, lamps, etc.
Apply voltage to the input of the electrical panel and use a multimeter to verify that there is 220 or 380 V at the input.
Consistently connect all difautomats and RCDs, and then use the Test button (if available) to check their performance.
Use a multimeter to check for voltage at the AB input.
Turn on all switches one by one and check that there is voltage at the inputs.
Apply load sequentially. To do this, turn on the washing machine, electric oven, microwave, air conditioner and other powerful equipment. Make sure there is no spark.
Go through all the outlets and check for voltage.
Make sure all lights are working.
Leave a large load for several hours and monitor the operation of the shield all this time.

In case of successful testing, close the electrical panel with a lid, put the frame and return the door to its place. All empty spaces must be closed with special plugs.

At the next stage, make a marking on the plastron, indicating the line number and purpose. You can buy tags or make your own, then stick them with tape.

When using an opaque door on the electrical panel, stick the diagram on the cover. Some devices already have special clamps.

How to smear a shield into a wall – a tool, workflow

It has already been noted above that the most difficult work is mounting the electrical panel inside the wall. To solve the problem, you will need a level (laser or bubble), a marker, a perforator with a chisel in the kit, a mortar spatula and a sharp knife.

After preparing the equipment, take the following steps:

Attach the body of the 220 or 380 V electrical panel to the place where the work will be performed. When creating the contour, use a level to set the cabinet as level as possible. In width, make a margin of an average of 20 mm on each side.
Using a drill, drill a hole along the contour and use a disc or grinder for concrete for this. The depth of the hole should be about 10 mm more than the thickness of the cabinet.
Turn on the perforator to impact mode and use it to knock out a recess in the wall along the indicated contour.
Make a strobe at the top where the cables will enter.
Prepare the holes in the shield if they haven’t already been made.
Moisten the niche with water, and then plant the shield inside with cement mortar.
Adjust its location with a level.
Please note that the edges of the cabinet are flush with the wall.

We note right away that it is not so easy to introduce an electrical panel into the wall. The greatest difficulties arise with a concrete wall, where the use of a grinder may be required.

After completing the work, wait for the solution to dry and check once again that all cables are correctly inserted into the electrical cabinet. After that, seal the strobes with mortar, and if there is a large distance between the box and the wall, blow it with foam, and after a while carefully cut off all the excess.

Assembling a shield in a private house for 3 phases or 380 Volts

We will separately consider how you can assemble a shield in a garage and a private house at 380 volts with your own hands. Here it is worth adhering to the same principles discussed above. For a better understanding, here is a brief algorithm of actions.

Preparatory stage:

Check the completeness of the shield elements. Make sure that the necessary equipment is purchased and installed in advance – a knife switch, AB, metering device, RCD, differential automata, tires (grounding and zero), connecting wires and combs.
Put the electrical panel in the correct place.
Prepare wires for installation. Remove the wiring from them, make sure there are markings. If it doesn’t exist, be sure to do so. In the future, this will greatly facilitate the work in case of troubleshooting.

Basic stage:

Install a circuit breaker if it is provided in the circuit.
Set the machine to input.
Put the zero bus and connect the working zeros to it (except for the lines that will be connected through the RCD. When choosing the length of the wire, keep in mind that it should fit the equipment without undue stretch. It is important that everything inside the electrical panel is done neatly.
Install a meter.
Install an RCD and connect the phases to the linear automata.
Install and connect the RCD on the line.
Install a grounding bar and connect the PE wires to it.
Connect the power cable and complete the installation according to the diagram.

After finishing the work, make sure that everything is done correctly.

Features of installation in the garage

Additionally, consider a number of features of the assembly of the electrical panel in the garage:

When installing the electrical cabinet, take into account all the loads that can be connected in the garage – ventilation, lighting, household appliances, power tools and alarms.
Make a draft of the future electrical panel, taking into account the load current. If it is too large, you will have to abandon some devices.
Decide in advance which network you need. It is not necessary to connect equipment to 380 V. If you do not plan to use a welder or other three-phase equipment, a voltage of 220 V is sufficient. Based on your decision, choose AB.
When choosing circuit breakers, consider the load of consumers and their technical characteristics. The breaking current must be higher than the nominal parameter for the machine.
Instead of linear AB, conventional fuses can be used.
If you plan to use a welding machine, install a separate machine for it and plan for additional power. To power industrial devices, it is often necessary to install automatic machines with a rated current of 50 A.

When assembling electrical panels in the garage, electricians always focus on the calculated and passport data of the equipment. It also provides for at least one 16-amp machine, which will be used as a backup.

As in the case of an apartment, a meter must be installed in a garage electrical panel for 380 or 220 V.

Another important point is grounding. The PUE says that the TN scheme is used in garages. In other words, it is necessary to make grounding using four rods connected by metal jumpers and dug into the ground. The grounding conductor must have a thickness of at least 1,5 cm and be made of steel.

Poland about grounding schemes here https://elektrikexpert.ru/sistemy-zazemlenij.html.

The next point is the choice of the electrical panel housing. There are two options – open or closed boxes. The second option is more preferable from a security standpoint. In this case, the degree of protection must be from IP20 and higher.

After assembling the electrical box according to the diagram above, install the meter and connect it. Next, call a representative of the power supply or another controlling organization to install the seal.

When using a metal box, be sure to connect it to an installed ground loop.

In the switchboard, fastening is done with a bolt, and on the other hand – welding (in extreme cases, with a bolt).

The shield is mounted at a height of about 140 cm from the floor. Please note that the input cable is supplied by a representative of the power supply organization, so do the installation work in the garage in advance.

Results

Now you know how to assemble an electrical panel for different objects, be it an apartment, a private house or a garage. In all cases, installation approaches, including 380 or 220 V, are almost the same.

Only the principles of selecting equipment with regard to the planned load, the number of active lines and the principles of grounding differ.

Please note that to perform such work, you must have the correct scheme at hand and at least minimal experience in the field of electrical installation.

Otherwise, it is better to involve a specialist in order to avoid a short circuit already at the first voltage supply.

How to assemble an electrical panel for 220 and 380 V with your own hands in a private house, apartment and garage with automatic machines and RCDs – ElektrikExpert.ru