Who has never found herself totally annoyed by her new hair color? Too red, too dark, not enough contrast … it is not always easy to anticipate the result of a color. So how do you fix broken pots and get back to its natural color? The hair makeup removers are there for that: instructions for use!

Also known as stripping, hair scrub, or hair cleanser, hair makeup remover is relatively new to the hair product market. His goal ? Eliminate the artificial pigments therein by reversing the oxidation process. Considerably less aggressive than bleaching, the makeup remover does not affect the natural color of the hair. However, it still tends to dry out the hair fiber, so it is advisable to apply nourishing treatments (masks, oils) the days following its use.

The make-up remover works just as well with a so-called chemical coloring, a vegetable or a henna. On the other hand, some pigments – such as red and blue tones – are more resistant than others, and may require several makeup removals to completely fade.

This product can also be used to lighten a too dark color: it is then enough to reduce the exposure time.

Pickling and bleaching are often confused, yet the process is fundamentally different. Unlike stripping – which only acts on the surface pigment particles – bleaching consists in removing the natural pigments from the hair using oxidizing agents, without adding coloring matter.

Bleaching therefore makes it possible to lighten the natural pigment of the hair called eumelanins and phaeomelanins. The degree of lightening of a discoloration depends on the duration of the pause time after the application of the product. The discoloration is more aggressive for the hair of which it attacks the fiber and that it weakens.

Hair makeup remover kits are much like coloring kits. The box therefore contains 2 to 3 bottles depending on the brand:

• the first is a reducing agent (or eraser) at basic pH;
• the second is an acidic pH catalyst (or activator) which generally contains citric acid;
• and the third – which is not always offered – is a corrector or fixer.

HOW TO USE

The first step consists in mixing the first two products (the eraser and the catalyst) in order to obtain the makeup remover. This mixture should then be applied to dry and clean hair, from the tips to the roots. For optimal action, it is advisable to cover the entire hair with plastic film for the duration of the treatment. The exposure time of the product can range from 20 minutes to 40 minutes depending on the number of tones between the coloring and the natural color. For example, Venetian blonde hair colored in dark brown will require a longer exposure time than light brown hair passed to dark brown. The product must then be rinsed very abundantly with clear water: the step is crucial because it carefully eliminates the artificial color molecules still present on the hair. Long or very thick hair may require at least ten minutes of rinsing, during which the scalp and lengths should be massaged. The last step is to apply the last stabilizer product – which does not exist in all brands of hair makeup removers. This corrector should be applied all over the hair like a shampoo, until it foams generously. Leave it on for a minute to let it absorb the coloring residues, before being generously rinsed for 5 more minutes with clean water. The end result is not appreciable until the hair is completely dry. If a single application is not enough to restore them to their original color, the entire operation can be repeated two to three times at most.

When a coloring is missed or too dark, it is also possible to correct the shot with house tips. The idea is then to release the color as much as possible to attenuate its effects.

White vinegar

Combined with water in the same amount, white vinegar can work wonders to oxidize the dye and reduce the color. Applied to dry hair, leave it on for about twenty minutes before rinsing with clear water and applying your usual shampoo.

Chamomile – honey – lemon mixture

These three ingredients with lightening virtues make it possible to release a too dark color. Instructions for use: mix a cup of chamomile tea, 3 tablespoons of honey (preferably organic) and a teaspoon of freshly squeezed lemon juice.

The mixture should be applied to the entire hair and can be applied between half an hour and an hour, before rinsing and shampooing.

White clay mask – coconut milk

Coconut milk is known to loosen color effectively, and clay is second to none for ridding hair of coloring residue.

Mix the equivalent of a small briquette of coconut milk (250 ml), and 3 tablespoons of powdered white clay.

Apply the mask thus obtained strand by strand over the entire hair, then leave it on for at least two hours, ideally under a charlotte or transparent film. Rinse thoroughly with clean water before shampooing.