Gorenje dishwasher errors: how to fix

Water has entered the sump due to a leak in the tank from the Aquastop system hose.

The internal components of the case can also leak – a pump, a recirculation pump, etc.; connecting pipes.

Drain the sump to open the container full sensor contact. This is followed by a restart of the dishwasher, to check and find the leak.

The leakage is eliminated, and the machine can be used.

A failure in the operation of the electronic board is obvious if none of the four breakdowns listed above has been confirmed.

How to reboot the machine to determine module failure:

start the dishwasher

select the washing mode;

close the loading hatch;

If after 3 minutes or less the PMM shows the error code E1, then the problem is still in the unit and it needs to be replaced.

After emptying the dishwasher tank, check the operation of the pressure switch, use an ohmmeter.

If the relay needs to be changed, install a new part.

Select a mode and turn it on. Make sure the pump delivers water evenly without creating bubbles.

If the water supply is intermittent, you need to inspect the pump hose that passes through the sump – there may be blockages in it.

If the problem is still not solved, the part needs to be changed.

The repair consists of closing the water valve to regulate the pressure of the water flow. After that, restart the device several times to make sure the problem is solved.

If the code E2 is lit again, then the intake valve will have to be replaced.

Using a tester, measure the resistance of the fuse. If “0” is lit on the device screen, it means “closed”, there is no operation. If the measurements report: “open”, then the fuse has worked to protect the heating element from overheating and burnout.

In the latter case, the tripping of the thermal fuse is due to one of two possible reasons:

1. Incorrect position of the thermistor.

2. The washing pump is deformed.

The heater should be tested using an ohmmeter. Measure the resistance by attaching the probes of the device to the contacts.

Normal values ​​are within 25 ohms (at room temperature of 20 degrees). If it shows a “break” on the measuring device, then the heating element fails and needs to be replaced.

Carry out wiring maintenance by checking the integrity of the connections on the parts of the dishwasher and its control module.

Use a tester: measure the resistance by applying the probes to the board connectors. Find damaged areas and repair them.

If the washing pump stops working, the water stops circulating in the system, therefore it does not heat up (at this moment the heater thermal fuse could have tripped).

The pump and fuse need to be replaced.

If the above breakdowns are not confirmed, then this may mean that the relay that controls the operation of the heating element has been broken.

Using an ohmmeter, measure the voltage at the heater connector as it heats up. At this point, the terminals should be producing 220 volts.

Voltage control needs to be carried out for a couple of minutes, because the heating element does not start immediately after being turned on; It takes time to diagnose a breakdown. If the failure is confirmed, the module needs to be replaced.

Armed with a multimeter, measure the resistance of the thermostat – it should be at the level of 12 kOhm at a room temperature of 20 degrees.

If an open circuit is detected, this means a breakdown and the need for replacement.

Check if the inlet hose in the PMM is not pinched. Also inspect the mesh filter on the machine body, at the hose inlet.

Straighten or install the hose correctly. Rinse the filter screen at the same time.

Check the integrity of the connections of the inlet valve and the electronic board. Run the tester in ohmmeter mode to measure the resistance and check if the connections are good.

Finding damaged areas, provide them with repairs.

It is necessary to check the coil with a tester.

If a break is detected, then the valve is broken and needs to be replaced with a similar one.

If the wiring is good, take a tester to check the voltage at the solenoid valve.

When filling, the power supply of the part must be at the level of 220V. If there are no indicators, then the module needs to be changed.

Check the operation of the drain pump. You will need a tester to check the resistance at the connector where there should be no open circuits.

If the pump winding is broken, then the pump is broken and needs to be urgently reinstalled. Sometimes the pump stops draining at normal ohmmeter readings. Replace the pump if you cannot find the cause of the failure.

Check with a tester whether the pump receives voltage from the side of the unit when draining – it should be 200V.

If the work of the part is not disturbed, but its signals do not reach the module that the tank is already empty, the electronic board may be broken.

Both cases require replacement of the block.

Run a wash cycle to check how evenly the water is supplied. It is possible that the pump hose is clogged.

You need to remove the blockage or replace the pump.