Going green: what we need to know about eco-cosmetics

Today, almost all cosmetic brands have acquired their “children of nature” lines with an emphasis on environmental friendliness, because respect for the environment has become an integral part of the modern lifestyle. Are these remedies effective—or just ethical?

Until recently, the cosmetics industry could not live without littering the planet. The degree of activity of the cream was demonstrated not only by the composition, but also by the packaging: a glossy cardboard box, a heavy glass jar, a spatula, and so on. All this should have testified: the product is serious, luxurious and worth the money.

Global concern for the environment has prompted many brands to rethink their approach to product packaging and ingredients. Environmental friendliness is the key word in cosmetology today. Biodegradable materials, recycled bottles, vegan formulas, ingredients that won’t disturb the world order. It seems that the main cosmetic vector has become not concern for our appearance, but appeasement of nature.

Forces of nature

Previously, there was a division in the beauty industry – who fights for youth, and who saves the planet by releasing natural products. Today, most brands, including those that have always relied on cellular and chemical complexes, have turned their faces towards ecology.

The novelties declare 95-97% natural ingredients in the composition, eco-packaging and the brand’s work to save the World Ocean, bees, forests, natives … This is great, but hasn’t the activity of the products decreased?

“In no case! Nature is much more generous than it seems, says Edouard Move-Jarvis, Director of Science Communications at Dior. “Most importantly, she never puts all her eggs in one basket. There are plenty of herbal extracts with serious potential. But so far we have not found one universal one that can fully improve the functioning of the skin. That’s why the Dior laboratories are constantly researching new hoods and the abilities of those we already have. Many phyto-ingredients can be recreated. But practice has shown that the beauty abilities of a synthetic extract will be lower. Why i do not know. This is one of the mysteries of nature.”

Love for yourself

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Day cream with red algae Blue Therapy Red Algae, Biotherm

Scientific approach

That is why, and not just because of the global desire to save the environment, many brands are switching to “natural products”. True, with a caveat: they do not use primitive extracts, but their most active molecules, which are combined into complexes. That is why new products with a natural composition are distinguished by high activity and considerable cost. The cost of research and production must be compensated. But the passion for everything natural gave rise to extremes.

Previously, girls began their acquaintance with the cream, tasting the texture, inhaling the aroma, being interested in the effect. Now they are in a hurry to make sure that it does not contain scary ingredients: parabens, sulfates, silicones, mineral oils and the like.

And although experts convince that doses of these components in cosmetics are harmless, human rumor is stronger. “There are over 60 types of parabens. And only four are used in cosmetics. Good substances, I must say, – says the president of Clarins, Christian Courtin-Clarence. — But we were forced to abandon them because of the panic and the desire of many to cash in on the hype.

Now we use honey. Do you know why it never spoils? It has “terrible” parabens that protect it. Why add honey for preservation at the risk of allergies when you can use pure parabens? But we tame honey long and hard, minimizing the risk of irritation. Yes, this is a natural preservative, but in fact – the same parabens.

Due to the hysteria of society, brands are forced to cheat and go the wrong way. Paul Percival and Adam Reed of Percy & Reed have been making sulfate-free shampoo for two years. According to them, “they got very angry in the process, because there is no reason to refuse sulfates.” Why then make an ecoline? “Customers are looking for sulfate-free shampoos – we don’t want to miss out on profits,” the manufacturers honestly explain.

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Foundation L’Essentiel High Perfection, Guerlain

back side

But there are ingredients that are harmful to the planet. Peeling plastic granules, glitters and film-forming components get into the waters of the World Ocean, become food for its inhabitants, causing illness and death. Therefore, brands have massively replaced these components with natural counterparts.

The coral-destroying sunscreens oxybenzone and octinoxate have become pariahs, as brands hastily updated their SPF products to include sea-safe filters. Despite the excesses, the brand’s commitment to preserving nature and supplying the skin with natural and effective ingredients is an important initiative. Let’s hope that this is not a tribute to the global eco-fashion, but a serious and final course.

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