Glycolic acid for the face [in cosmetics] – properties, benefits, action, home use

What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is a type of water-soluble alpha-hydroxyl fruit acids, obtained both synthetically and from natural plant components – sugar cane, bamboo, grapes. In cosmetology, both types of production are used – there is no significant difference between them.

Among all AHAs, glycolic has the lowest molecular weight and acidity, which increases its ability to penetrate into the epidermal layers of the skin and instantly react. The activity of the impact and the depth of penetration depends on the pH level – the lower (acidic) it is, the higher the effectiveness of the acid.

How Glycolic Acid Is Used

In cosmetics

Due to its powerful keratolic properties, glycolic acid in cosmetics is used for enhanced exfoliation of dead cells, skin renewal, deep cleansing and rejuvenation. Most often, the substance is found in the basis of active formulas for oily and problematic types, as well as for mature skin. When choosing an acid-containing care product, pay attention to the concentration.

Beauty formulas based on glycolic acid also activate the synthesis of natural collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, increasing skin turgor. Since alpha hydroxyl acid is water soluble, it is not recommended to combine products based on it with dense fatty and oily formulas – this will reduce its effectiveness.

In cosmetology

One of the most sought-after salon procedures for facial skin is a glycolic facial peel. The procedure is a kind of chemical peeling with fruit acids: it effectively evens out the color and relief of the skin, accelerates the regeneration of epidermal cells.

A high concentration of acid in the peel (from 30%) has a powerful renewing and rejuvenating effect. Such facial cleansing is a traumatic renewing procedure that requires subsequent regenerating, moisturizing and softening care. Be sure to protect your skin from UV rays and use sunscreen even in the cold season, such as Anthelios Sunscreen Invisible Fluid SPF 50+/PPD 46.

The action and benefits of glycolic acid for facial skin

A rich spectrum of actions on the skin makes glycolic acid one of the most sought-after components. Responsible for exfoliation, as well as its ability to rejuvenate, smooth, prevent hyperpigmentation, alpha hydroxy acid satisfies the basic needs of oily skin and is widely used in anti-age beauty routine. Let’s take a closer look at the beneficial properties of glycolic acid for the face.

• Evens out the color and relief of the epidermis.
• Fights age-related changes, smoothes even deep wrinkles.
• Seals the deep layer of the epidermis, thins the superficial (horny).
• Accelerates the mechanisms of cellular renewal.
• Increases tone, firmness and elasticity of the skin.
• Returns radiance and freshness to the skin of the face.
• Helps to get rid of signs of acne, has an anti-inflammatory effect: minimizes the appearance of acne, promotes the resorption of comedones, cleanses and tightens pores, reduces the visibility of black spots.
• Helps to get rid of post-acne: smoothes stagnant spots, atrophic scars.
• Suppresses the production of melanin, corrects traces of photoaging: brightens hyperpigmentation, eliminates dehydration creases.

Based on the above beneficial properties, we highlight the most common skin problems and imperfections that glycolic acid is designed to deal with.

Indications for the use of cosmetics with glycolic acid

• Early signs of aging.
• Visible aging.
• manifestation of photoaging.
• Hyperkeratosis.
• Acne (pimples, blackheads, comedones).
• Hyperpigmentation, malasma.
• Uneven relief and skin color, peeling.
• Post-acne traces.

Features of using cosmetics with glycolic acid for different skin types

• For oily problematic and combination skin

  Oily and problem skin types respond well to any glycolic acid products on a daily basis. Anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating products containing a component at the base of the formula have a keratolic and renewing effect without dehydration of the epidermis.

  Also look for glycerin, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, salicylic acid, or lipohydroxy acid in products for maximum results. The complex of salicylic and lipo-hydroxy acids can be used without the addition of LHA acids, as, for example, in the basis of the Effaclar Mattifying Lotion formula.

• For dry skin and sensitive

  For a mild exfoliation effect without skin irritation, use up to 5% glycolic acid skin cream. For sensitive skin, choose toners or lotions with a low content (up to 3%) 3-4 times a week. Formulas with a combination of acid, niacinamide, squalane, thermal water, hyaluronic acid are also suitable to prevent skin irritation. If irritation or allergy occurs, switch to a lower maintenance treatment or stop using it altogether.

• For normal and mature

  For mature skin with visible signs of aging, you can use a complex of acids in the basis of the formula, such as BHA and AHA acids. Professional peels with a high content of alpha hydroxy acid will help to intensively renew the epidermis. Creams, gels, tonics, cleansers with a low component content are suitable as a regular beauty routine.

Review of cosmetics with glycolic acid La Roche-Posay 

New ultra-concentrated serum against imperfections of oily problem skin Effaclar Serum Ultra with a complex of three acids (salicylic + glycolic + lipo-hydroxy), niacinamide protects the skin from premature aging, provides antioxidant support to cells, intensively renews the epidermis, cleanses and tightens pores, evens out color and skin relief. At the same time, it has a calming and firming effect, protects against dehydration.

Consumer feedback:

Anastasia: I really liked the serum! Really good solution for problematic skin. It is better to use it once a day, I do it at night, as it is an acidic product. It is better not to use 1 times a day, as it dries the skin. I use only on those places where the skin is oily and on the T-zone. A lot of inflammation has gone from the chin. It copes well with spot acne, I also use it as an SOS remedy. I recommend the tool!

Oksana: A good product for oily skin with the first age-related changes 2 in 1 thanks to the acid complex in the composition with high efficiency. It replaces not only the care against imperfections, but also visibly smoothes mimic wrinkles, removes acne and cleanses pores from blackheads. I use the serum twice a day, morning and evening, the texture is pleasant, quickly absorbed, not noticeable on the skin. I ordered a second pack.