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You can repair the Mora gas column yourself, the main thing is to understand the causes of the problem. If nothing foreshadowed, the equipment worked as usual, but suddenly stopped heating the water, you need to carefully examine all the details. How to do this, you will learn from our article.
Mora gas equipment problems
Czech-made equipment is full of advantages, but not without drawbacks. Of the pluses noted:
- Multi-stage security system.
- High efficiency – 94%.
- Efficient operation even at reduced line pressure.
- Thick and reliable heat exchanger body.
- Quiet work.
But not always the promises of the manufacturer become a reality. Users complain about breakdowns in the Pestilence columns, the main ones of which we will discuss below.
Problems of the gas-water block
A breakdown can occur when the column is mechanically damaged, the power cable is broken. Poor quality of tap water, blockages, low pressure also affect.
The water node consists of:
- rubber membrane with disc;
- temperature controller;
- water supply switch;
- ventura tubes;
- mesh filter.
On the page “Water unit of the geyser” we described in detail what they are for. What parts do users have problems with?
Strainer. It is located at the entrance to retain small debris from the water supply. The mesh is clogged with rust and debris, so it needs to be cleaned. Remove the filter, rinse under running water. You can clean the part with a brush and citric acid.
Rubber membrane. If the column does not ignite or goes out, the reason is the wear of the membrane. The element is constantly stretching due to the pressure in the system, starting the gas valve. So the gas enters the burner, ignition occurs. But if the membrane is stretched or damaged, the circuit breaks – the ignition does not work.
To replace, you need to remove the water unit, unscrew the six screws on the cover and remove the part. If it is in good condition, just rinse under running water. If worn, replace.
Important! Choose a membrane specifically for your model. Name the speaker model in the store or take an old part with you.
What else could lead to ignition problems:
- If the column ignites with a pop and goes out, this indicates a clogged ignition wick. For cleaning, remove the casing from the device, unscrew the tube of the draft sensor and gas supply. Then unscrew the two fixing screws. Clean all parts of the igniter, nozzles and wick.
If the situation has not changed after cleaning the wick, the solenoid valve needs to be replaced.
- There is a spark, but the burner does not ignite. Problems with the ionization sensor. Check and tighten the wiring, clean the contacts.
Gas boiler heats water poorly, flows
The problem is with the heat exchanger. It consists of metal plates, between which soot and soot appear when heated. This coating interferes with the normal heat dissipation of the appliance. How to define it? Pay attention to the color of the flame. If clogged, it will be yellow, in addition, it can deviate to the side and heat the casing, which is very dangerous. Therefore, cleaning is recommended.
Scale is another common problem. In the article “Gas column heat exchanger, repair and cleaning”, we described all possible problems. Recall that the scale settles at a heating temperature of more than 55 degrees, as well as in the absence of water filters.
To clean the radiator of soot, you will have to do a little DIY repair.
- Shut off the gas and water supply.
- Drain any remaining fluid from the radiator.
- Remove the cover.
- You will have access to the node plates. If they are black and sooty, clean them with a brush. Additionally, you can remove and wash them.
- Disconnect the heat exchanger, rinse with water.
- Dry, reinstall.
To combat scale, you can use a weak solution of hydrochloric acid or citric acid.
Flow. Fistulas in the radiator housing do not just happen.
Main reasons:
- Poor quality material. Most often, copper heat exchangers are used, as they have high efficiency and conduct heat well. Those devices that are made of pure thick copper really last a long time. But often manufacturers add impurities to the alloy. Therefore, the radiator warms up unevenly, burnouts appear over time.
- Corrosion. No product is guaranteed against this. In some models, the tubes are covered with heat-resistant paint, but this does not save them too much. The service life is 2-3 years.
Leaks can be identified visually. Small holes are indicated by green and rusty spots on the surface.
It is better to inspect with the tap turned off to increase the pressure inside. Some fistulas give themselves out as droplets of moisture. To fix the problem, the radiator is dismantled, dried and sealed. But there are other options:
- Apply a rubber patch to the damaged area. Fasten a metal clamp on top. This is the easiest option.
- Cold welding. Choose a material that matches the heating temperature of the product. Degrease the surface, knead the welding to a plastic state and apply at least 1-2 mm to the hole. Wait until it freezes.
- Soldering. This is the most reliable method. Clean and degrease the surface of the fistula. Then apply solder to it with a powerful soldering iron or gas torch. If the damage is only in one place, solder the copper plate. The latter can even be secured with staples or wire.
To check for leaks, fill the heat exchanger with water.
You have learned the main options for repairing the Mora column. To avoid problems in the future, it is recommended to carry out prevention:
- Change the batteries in time, as the speakers have automatic ignition.
- Install a water filter. It will soften the water, then the salts will not settle on the parts.
- Clean at least once a year.
Follow the instructions for use, then the equipment will last much longer.