Genie from a jar: the composition of the face cream

Contents

The feeling of a cream that does not suit the skin cannot be confused with anything. It may sting slightly, absorb poorly, or cause irritation. And sometimes it’s not about quality – you just need another jar. But what? What should be the composition of the face cream to make it right for you?

What are the ingredients of face cream?

Every minute in the world they release a cream that works wonders with the skin – moisturizes, softens, restores. This is the merit of active components – there are not so many of them in a cosmetic product, 10-20%. Everything else is the base, emulsifiers, preservatives, dyes and flavors. But they also make cream cream – they create texture. And in any case, all components are important for the final effectiveness. Vichy expert, dermatocosmetologist Ekaterina Turubara, tells what a typical cream consists of:

  • Base, or basis. The perception of a cosmetic product largely depends on it – how it will feel to the touch, how it will lie down, how it will be absorbed. In addition, a good base enhances the effect of active ingredients. If in the last century the cream was often made on animal fats, then in recent years the bases of the cream are exclusively vegetable and synthetic. The most modern ingredients are phospholipid lamellar emulsions, vegetable polysaccharides, silicolipids, as well as squalane and other saturated fats. These substances make the texture of the cream soft and silky. It does not leave an unpleasant feeling of oiliness, stickiness and is easily absorbed.

  • Emulsifier. Most creams are emulsions, that is, roughly speaking, water with oils. From the school chemistry course, we remember that oil does not dissolve in water. In order for them to mix, and even for the result to be stable, emulsifiers are needed.

  • Preservatives. Due to their antibacterial and antifungal effect, they stop the reproduction of microbes in the cream and increase its shelf life. The more components in the composition, the more preservatives are needed. But in general, their share does not exceed 2-3%, usually even less. Interestingly, antioxidants are often used as preservatives.

  • Flavours. Thanks to them, we fall in love with the cream: if it has a subtle, pleasant smell, this is already half the battle! But if you have sensitive skin, look for the words parfum or fragrance on the packaging and make sure they don’t end up in the middle of the list. The closer to the end, the less of this component in the cream.

  • Dyes. Unfortunately, they are of no benefit to the skin. But sometimes they are needed to make the cream look attractive. As part of them, they are designated by the code Cl (colorindex), followed by a series of numbers.

The perception of a cosmetic product largely depends on the base – how it will feel to the touch, how it will lie down, be absorbed

Features of the composition of the face cream, depending on its purpose

Active components are called so not by chance. This is the cream’s asset, its pride, “motor”, “heart”, “brain” – they are not compared with anything! They determine the properties of the cream and its purpose, are responsible for the effectiveness of the product.
Answer our quiz to find out if your cream is right for you.

Moisturizing

Everyone needs such a cream, because moisturizing is the basic need of our skin. Look for thermal water, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea, plant extracts (for example, aloe), algae extracts in the list. As well as vegetable oils (sunflower, olive, argan, shea butter, etc.), lactic acid, ceramides. Here are a few, according to the editors of Healthy-Food, worthy representatives of the moisturizing “family”.

Moisturizing Expert Cream for Dry, Sensitive Skin, L’Oréal Paris

The formula with vitamin E, rose and blackcurrant oils actively moisturizes the skin, soothes and softens it.

Facial Aquafluid for Normal to Combination Skin Moisture Genius, L’Oréal Paris

Of the active moisturizing ingredients, it contains a whole cocktail – hyaluronic acid, aloe juice, glycerin, vitamin E. L’Oréal Paris has similar products for normal and dry, as well as sensitive skin.

Face cream “Protection against wrinkles 35+” moisturizing day, Garnier

Contains plant cells of youth and tea polyphenols. Works to reduce and prevent the first wrinkles, moisturizes for 24 hours.

Ultra-moisturizing face cream Ultra Facial Cream, Kiehl’s

Thanks to the light texture, it lays down well and is quickly absorbed. The cream contains Imperata cylindric extract, squalane and antarcticin, which give the skin softness, smoothness and comfort.

restorative

Its task is to put the skin in order: soften, moisturize and soothe it, saturating it with a large amount of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. Revitalizing cream is a lifesaver for tired skin, faded after exhausting stress, 24/7 work, long winter (and self-isolation). It may contain panthenol, allantoin, lanolin acid, lecithin, extracts of Asian centella, horse chestnut, white iris and lupine, antioxidants (many antioxidants – vitamin E, carnosine, grape seed extract, etc.), as well as ceramides. Regenerating creams for hands and feet are very popular, but regenerating face creams are often nightly. While we sleep, these invisible helpers work: moisturize, nourish and restore the skin of the face.

Night soothing care Toleriane Ultra Nuit, La Roche-Posay

Moisturizes, softens and soothes the skin, reduces the feeling of discomfort. Enriched with allantoin, squalane, vitamin E and carnosine, as well as the neurosensin molecule, which has a powerful calming effect.

Intensively regenerating night cream Absolue Nuit Premium βX, Lancôme

A whole team of active ingredients fights for the youth and health of the skin at once. Among them are the anti-aging molecule proxylan, white iris and white lupine extract. All of them stimulate the processes of cellular renewal, make the skin dense, elastic and radiant.

Anti-Aging

The hallmark of these creams is the presence in the composition of components with anti-aging effectiveness. Retinol, vitamins A, E, C, alpha-lipoic acid, peptides, coenzyme Q10 – all of them contribute to the fact that the complexion improves, the skin is smoothed, the oval of the face is corrected. Some anti-aging creams also contain whitening ingredients – to combat age spots, as well as light-reflecting particles that visually rejuvenate the skin – wrinkles, bruises, small defects become invisible.

Day anti-aging face cream Revitalift Laser x3, SPF 20, L’Oréal Paris

Reduces wrinkles, firms and increases skin density, improves skin texture, fights age spots.

Means for restoring skin density and facial oval for normal and dry skin Substiane, La Roche-Posay

Active ingredients – proxylan molecule, serine and arginine, beeswax, apricot oil and shea butter make the skin softer, firmer, hydrated and strengthen it.

Light cream for normal to oily skin with signs of aging Face Cream, SkinCeuticals

Lightweight formula with grapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil and sesame oil improves skin firmness and elasticity. Reduces wrinkles, nourishes and softens the skin.

Renergie Multi-Lift Ultra Multiactive Anti-Aging Fluid, SPF 25, Lancôme

It works in several directions at once – moisturizes and nourishes the skin, making it soft and supple, fights wrinkles and age spots. Facial contours become more defined.

Neovadiol compensating complex day care cream for normal and combination skin during menopause, Vichy

Contains hyaluronic acid and proxylan. Reduces wrinkles, has a pronounced lifting effect, correcting the oval of the face.

Sunscreen

The term “photoaging” was coined for the skin, which for many years was not protected from the sun in any way, as a result, wrinkles, age spots appeared on it, it lost its tone and elasticity. To prevent this from happening, it makes sense to use sunscreen cosmetics – and not only at sea, but also in the summer in the city, and even in winter and in the off-season, for example, after cosmetic procedures. The main thing in the composition of the sunscreen, of course, SPF filters and a wide range of protection against UV rays of types A and B.

Sunscreen for the face “Expert Protection” Ambre Solaire, SPF 50, Garnier

Non-sticky, non-greasy cream with a hypoallergenic formula protects the skin from photoaging, enriched with hyaluronic acid. A suitable option for a day cream in the sunny season.

Soleil Bronzer Moisturizing Sunscreen BB Cream SPF 50 Lancôme

Suitable for dry skin. In addition to sunscreens, it contains antioxidants and oils of argan, rosehip, monoi to improve the quality characteristics of the skin. The cream is easily absorbed, and corrective pigments help to even out the complexion.

3-in-1 anti-aging treatment with antioxidants Capital Idéal Soleil, SPF 50, Vichy

This cream not only prevents photoaging, but also fights existing signs of aging, smoothing out wrinkles, making the skin soft and supple. Contains a whole complex of antioxidants in addition to sunscreens.

Crème Solaire Dry Touch Mattifying Face Sunscreen, SPF 50, Biotherm

Provides effective protection of the skin from the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays of type A and B, it prevents photoaging of the skin. And the matting components in the composition help the skin not look oily in the sun.

For problem skin

The usual problem is oily or combination skin, which often upsets its mistress: black dots (no matter what the hostess does, they do not go anywhere), redness, acne, oily sheen. Many people think that cleansing is the main thing for such skin, and they wash, scrub, rub it to a squeak. This is a dangerous delusion: problematic skin, even more than any other, needs to be moisturized and restored. Therefore, in addition to a mild cleanser for problem skin, a moisturizing / restoring cream suitable for skin type must be on the shelf in the bathroom. It is optimal if it contains exfoliating (salicylic, glycolic, lipohydroxy acids), known drying properties (zinc and clay), matting (talc, perlite, silicon derivatives), softening (panthenol, silicones and esters), moisturizing (hyaluronic acid, glycerin) components and antioxidants (vitamins A, C, E and others). These creams for problem skin are favorites of the Healthy-Food editors.

Seboregulating emulsion Effaclar Mat, La Roche-Posay

Contains a special component Sebulyse, which reduces the production of sebum, tightens pores and mattifies the skin. Can be used before makeup.

Corrective care against imperfections Normaderm 24h moisturizing, Vichy

The ingredients in this cream fight imperfections and oily skin while moisturizing and softening it.

Deciphering the ingredients in the composition of the face cream

The easiest way to find out what is and what is not in a face cream is to look at the composition. And don’t let the abundance of incomprehensible names scare you – we’ll try to figure out most of them now.

In accordance with the international INCI nomenclature, the names of the ingredients are the scientific names of the herbal ingredients and chemical compounds used in the cream. The components in the list are in descending order. Usually comes first aqua — water, which is completely understandable. Water is followed by humidifiers (for example, glycerol) and fat-like substances that create a feeling of comfort when applying the cream. Often this role is dimethicone. It has a bad reputation online: it is believed to clog pores, provoke acne, but studies do not support this (scientific articles about this were published in the Journal of Wound Care, July 2000, pages 319–324; The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics , Volume 3, Book 2, Allured Publishing Corporation, 2002, pages 833-839; Cutis, October 2008, pages 281-284; Dermatology Research and Practice, October 2010, Epublication).

Every minute in the world they release a cream that works wonders with the skin.

In order for the cream to retain its consistency, stabilizing components are introduced into its composition. In particular, for example, silicon dioxide (Silica [Nano]/Silica) helps it not to fall apart. Акриламид (acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer) gives the cream the necessary viscosity, gives a comfortable feeling when applied. Buffers like Disodium Edta are added to the cream to stabilize the acidity. Disodium Edta enhances the effect of preservatives. And, by the way, it is an antioxidant that protects not only the cream formula from destruction, but also our skin from the action of aggressive environmental factors. AND triethanolamine, акрилаты (acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylatecrosspolymer), polysorbate 80 (Polysorbate 80) и sorbetanoleate (Sorbitan Oleate) etc. are emulsifiers, thanks to which the oils in the cream remain in combination with water. By the way, lovers of home cosmetics purchase them separately to make “hydrophilic oil” at home.

Do not be surprised if the active ingredients declared on the cream packaging are not in the top five in the list of ingredients. That’s why they are active: often a very small amount of them is required. For example, 1% retinol is already a shock dose.

Now about auxiliary components. A few examples: titanium dioxide Ci 77891 / Titanium Dioxide is a dye (remember, we wrote above about the Ci index). Isokeksadeksan (Isohexadecane) – a synthetic component that softens the skin. Mica It is a mica that gives the skin shine and silkiness. Tin Oxide mattifies the skin and enhances the durability of the dye. Finally, Chlorphenesin и Phenoxyethanol – preservatives, they are responsible for ensuring that the cream does not deteriorate for as long as possible.

What do the special markers on the label mean?

If in order to decipher the composition, you have to tinker, then with the rest of the inscriptions on the package everything is much simpler.

  • Without alcohol / Does not contain alcohol. Usually this inscription is accompanied by an asterisk and a footnote: does not contain ethyl alcohol. Other alcohols may be included. But they should not be afraid.

  • Non-comedogenic. The product does not have a comedogenic effect, i.e. its use should not lead to clogging of pores and the formation of blackheads and comedones.

  • Hypoallergenic. The composition is selected and balanced in such a way as to minimize the risk of an allergic reaction. But with all the efforts of the manufacturer, the risk of individual intolerance to a particular component still remains. Therefore, with a tendency to allergic reactions, any new cosmetic should be tested before use.

  • Tested under dermatological control. Everything is obvious here: the volunteers tested the cream for a certain period, and the experts regularly checked the skin reaction. The goal is to confirm safety, including for sensitive skin, if there is an appropriate label.

  • Clinically proven. Typically, such marking is accompanied by numbers: the skin becomes more hydrated by so many percent, wrinkles are reduced by so many percent, pigmentation intensity decreases by so many percent, etc. This means that volunteers under the control of those very dermatologists tested the cream . It can last from two weeks to three months, which allows the manufacturer to present a clear result: in what time frame, what favorable changes will occur if the product is used correctly. In fact, under the law, the manufacturer of cosmetics is not at all obliged to prove its effectiveness – only safety. And, of course, the presence of a detailed description of the transformation of the face in percentage inspires respect for the brand and hope for a wonderful effect – after all, so many people have worked hard to convince us …

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