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How fruit acids act on the skin, scientists found out only in the mid-1990s. What is the principle of their action and why are acid formulas so loved by manufacturers and users of cosmetics – we suggest you find out right now.
What are fruit acids
Fruit acids are called hydroxy acids, and most of them are referred to by the scientific world as alpha hydroxy acids. You have probably seen the abbreviation AHA on the packaging of products – these are hydroxy acids.
Compared to harsher acids, such as salicylic or carbolic acids, fruit acids are milder. They dissolve more easily in water, but do not destroy, but weaken the structural bonds between the cells of the epidermis. As a result of the use of products with fruit acids, the skin will become noticeably softer and more even.
Fruit acids are part of peels, tonics, serums, creams and masks
Types of fruit acids
We list the most popular types of AHA acids in the beauty industry.
Lemon
Contained in citrus fruits, as well as in other sour-tasting fruits and berries:
red currant;
cranberries;
blueberries.
It is considered one of the most effective, because it has additional properties.
Lactic acid is also an AHA
Dairy
Formed during lactic acid fermentation, present in sour milk and curdled milk. Provides the softest peeling effect. In the menu of many spas there is a so-called “milk peeling” based on this substance. Lactic acid has a super-delicate effect on the epidermis and is suitable even for those with sensitive skin.
Glycolic
Found in green grapes and sugar cane. The main task of glycolic acid is to accelerate the generation of new cells and rid the surface of the skin of old ones, which give the face an earthy tint.
apple
Contained not only in apples, but also in apricots, cherries, sweet cherries. In the world of cosmetics, malic acid is valued for its ability to suppress inflammatory reactions and protect the skin from free radicals.
Malic acid contains not only apples, but also cherries, sweet cherries, apricots
The use of AHA acids
Fruit acids destroy intercellular bonds, remove the so-called old cells and promote the process of cell division. In addition, they have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.
Most often, fruit acids are found in cleansing and exfoliating products – tonics, peels, lotions and masks. They are effective in fighting acne, pigmentation, and age-related changes.
Remember, no matter how mild acids are, they sensitize the skin and make it more vulnerable to the sun’s rays. Therefore, in the summer, it is better to limit the use of products based on AHA acids.
The effect of fruit acids on the skin
Getting on the skin, fruit acids act primarily on dead cells. It is better to start working on the relief of the skin with the mildest acids. Otherwise, there is a risk of irritation, and subsequently a post-inflammatory spot, especially on unprepared dehydrated skin or skin with a damaged lipid barrier.
Citric acid is considered the most effective
Products with fruit acids:
exfoliating peels, lotions, tonics;
brightening and exfoliating masks;
brightening serums and concentrates;
skin firming and anti-aging creams.
Restrictions in use
Before you start using cosmetics containing fruit acids, consult a cosmetologist or dermatologist. Depending on what problem you want to solve, you may need acids in different concentrations and dosages.
After using a product with fruit acids, apply a cream or foundation with a sunscreen if you do not want to burn or cause hyperpigmentation.
Cosmetics Review
Makeup remover milk Pure Ritual Care in Milk, Helena Rubinstein
Thanks to glycolic acid, it gives the skin softness and evens out the tone already at the cleansing stage. Has a pleasant creamy texture.
Salvation for skin with signs of acne. Serum reduces the activity of the sebaceous glands, relieves inflammation and prevents the formation of age spots. The composition includes dioic, salicylic, glycolic, citric acids.
Nightly micropeeling Nightly Refining Micro-Peel Concentrate, Kiehl’s
Reduces the adhesion of cells in the stratum corneum. As a result, the “old” cells are exfoliated, opening the way for the “young”. Among the active ingredients are quinoa husk extract, fruit acids derived from blueberries, sugar cane, lemon, orange, sugar maple.
Exfoliating and complexion-improving mineral mask-peeling “Double Glow”, Vichy
Fruit acids combined with particles of volcanic origin gently eliminate dead skin cells.