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The desire to find “your” flavor is not an idle need. Perfumes, in the cloud of which you feel comfortable, emphasize individuality, inspire confidence and simply cheer you up. Perfume industry experts offer advice on what to look for when choosing a fragrance, where to apply it, and how to keep it long-lasting.
Few people are faithful to one flavor. With the development of the perfume industry, the appearance of synthetic notes, perfumes have ceased to be a luxury. Nevertheless, the ability to find the “same” fragrance was and remains a real art.
How to choose perfume?
On the body of each person, the aroma is revealed in its own way and not at all in the same way as on paper or fabric testers. A composition that sounds “fucking sexy” on someone you know might sound very ordinary on your own skin.
It’s all about physiology: the intensity of certain notes is affected by hormonal levels, skin type, its smell, body temperature, and medication. By the way, this is a sign of high-quality perfumery! Cheap synthetic fragrances cannot boast of such an individual approach.
According to the canons of perfumery, it is believed that 10 minutes are spent on opening the initial notes of the composition, 10 – on the heart chord, and 10 – on the plume notes.
Even what we eat can affect the sound of perfume. “Not everyone knows that some products can significantly distort the composition,” says Dior perfumer François Demachy. “For example, garlic changes the smell that comes from your skin for two to three days.” And the director of the oldest Florentine brand Santa Maria Novella, Gianluca Foa, recalls: “The same perfume can reveal itself in completely different ways depending on the season and atmospheric humidity.”
So, the flavor you are interested in should be tried only on yourself. Apply the scent on your wrist and “live” with it for at least half an hour. According to the canons of classical perfumery, it takes 10 minutes to reveal the initial notes of a composition, 10 minutes for a heart chord, and 10 minutes for a trail note. Only then should you make a purchasing decision.
Perfumers unanimously argue that the division into male and female fragrances is very arbitrary. So if you liked a perfume marked Men or Homme on the bottle, don’t be afraid and refuse to buy it. “70% of our creations have no gender,” says Jean-Claude Ellena, perfumer at Hermès. His colleague Christine Nagel adds: “Our job is to combine, for example, the delicate notes of flowers and the brutal accord of wood, creating a unique composition. And in our work, we are never guided by the categories of “male” or “female” notes.
What does resilience depend on?
The persistence of the fragrance is primarily affected by concentration – that is, the percentage of pure aromatic substance in the formula. It is lowest in cologne (Eau de cologne) – only 2-5% pure aroma essence. Next comes toilet water (Eau de toilette) – 5-12%, and perfume water (Eau de parfum) – 10-20%. At the top of this pyramid are perfumes (Parfum) – from 20 to 40%.
In addition, in the last couple of years, some brands have tried a new format – perfume oils. They have the same high concentration of pure aromatic substances as in perfumes, but they are placed not in an alcohol base, but in an oil base.
Floral notes are more pronounced in oil, and woody notes feel better in an alcohol base.
“Thanks to this solution, a familiar fragrance smells on the skin in a new way. By the way, floral notes are more pronounced in oil, while woody notes feel better in an alcohol base,” explains perfumer Francois Demachy.
Two more formats that are gaining popularity are a perfumed hair veil and a body mist. They usually have less alcohol, and care ingredients can also be added, so that the products do not dry out the strands or skin.
To increase the durability of the fragrance, it is better to apply it over the lotion of the same name from the same line or a fragrance-free body moisturizer. Dry skin quickly absorbs the oils contained in the perfume, and the fragrance literally dissolves.
Where to apply?
Many have heard Coco Chanel’s phrase that perfume should be sprayed “everywhere you want to be kissed.” This advice does not contradict the theory that the fragrance should be applied correctly to the pulsation points: on the neck, behind the ears, on the bends of the elbows, under the knees and on the wrists. The skin in these places is the warmest (after all, the blood vessels are closest to the surface), which means that the composition opens up faster and brighter.
Jean-Claude Ellena adds: “For a particularly sensual experience, apply the perfume in the hollow on the neck just below the back of the head. And remember that the most persistent compositions are oriental with vanilla and amber.”
Should you wear perfume on clothes?
Professionals argue on this topic. François Demachy, for example, states: “Fragrances love warmth, so they should not be sprayed over clothing, but under it. Perfume “gets along” with natural fabrics (wool, silk), but they do not get along well with synthetics.
You also need to remember that perfumes can leave stains on clothes. Initially, they are developed for application to the skin, and their interaction with tissues is rarely taken into account.
However, there are exceptions. “Guerlain has special perfumes for lingerie (Eau de Lingerie), bedding (Eau de Lit) and cashmere (Eau de Cashmere),” says Guerlain perfumer Thierry Wasser. – It is not necessary to spray them directly onto the fabric. You can perfume a cotton ball and put it in the closet. In a word, spray your favorite perfume on the objects that surround you: umbrellas, scarves, combs. It will help lift your spirits.”
How to store?
Usually, two years after release, the fragrance begins to lose its durability. But it is still possible to extend its lifespan.
“Humidity, light and heat are the main enemies of perfume. It is wrong to store perfume on the windowsill, in the bathroom or next to a table lamp, says Kilian Hennessy, founder of the perfume brand by Killian. – Synthetic analogues of jasmine oil, for example, are destroyed after a month of direct exposure to light. Put a bottle of your favorite perfume on the window, and very soon you will not recognize the composition.
True perfume fans purchase special refrigerators to store their fragrant collection. However, a closet in the bedroom is also suitable. The main thing is away from batteries and lamps.