Foie gras

Of course, everyone has heard of such an exquisite French delicacy as foie gras. In fact, it is nothing more than goose liver, which is prepared in a certain way and is appreciated by gourmets all over the world. ^[1]. “Foie gras” means “fatty liver” in French. For this dish, the bird is specially fattened so that its liver increases in size up to ten times. It is force-fed, so to this day there are disputes between opponents of this dish – animal advocates and connoisseurs of haute cuisine. ^[2]. And which of them do you belong to?

A bit of history

In France, there is a story that tells how this luxurious dish appeared. It happened back in 1778 thanks to the marshal of France, the Marquis de Contade, who at that time was in Alsace. Once he uttered a sacramental phrase: “Today I want to treat guests to a dish of real French cuisine.” And then his chef Jean Pierre Kloz decided to prepare a new dish, which he presented under the name “pate de foie gras”. Brillat-Savarin, who was present at the dinner that evening, said that this dish made an indelible impression on the guests: “When they brought it into the hall, everything immediately calmed down, and there was indescribable delight, lust and joy on their faces.” Immediately after this, the marshal ordered that a large portion of this gourmet dish be sent to the French king Louis XVI. “Pate de foie gras” quickly won the hearts of the courtiers and has been the pride of national French cuisine ever since.

However, the very idea of ​​fattening geese appeared long before that. ^[3]. Forcibly fattening the bird began in ancient Egypt about 4500 years ago, as evidenced by ancient rock paintings that were found in the necropolises of Saqqara. Geese were fed grated soaked and roasted grain. In ancient Greece, they fed the bird with wheat crushed and soaked in water, which is exactly what the ancient Greek writer Athenaeus mentions in his writings. And Pliny the Elder says that in ancient Rome, dried and crushed figs were used for these purposes, which were soaked for at least twenty days. ^[4].

Around the XNUMXth century, the first recipes for dishes prepared from the liver of force-fed waterfowl began to appear. In Latin, they were called Jecur ficatum, which can be translated as “fig liver”. Later, the word ficatum became figido and then fedie. By the XNUMXth century, it sounded like feie and, in the end, turned into the familiar foie.

The production of this product reached industrial scale in France by the end of the XNUMXth century. However, by putting it on stream, the French industrialists significantly worsened the quality of the delicacy. Be that as it may, in France, fatty goose liver is recognized as part of the country’s cultural heritage, and its production is legalized at the highest level. ^[5].

Description and types of product

According to French laws, the term “foie gras” can only be called such products:

• whole foie gras (foie gras entier) consists of two parts of a different liver, uniform color on the cut, it is possible to add salt, various spices and herbs, sugar and alcohol;
• foie gras (foie gras) is prepared from compressed parts of different livers, a marble structure is noticeable on the cut;
• foie gras block (bloc de foie gras) – several types of liver are mixed during the emulsification process, due to which the product acquires a uniform taste;
• foie gras block with slices (bloc de foie gras avec morceaux) – whole pieces of the liver are added to the emulsified mixture, which can be seen in the cut;
• foie gras mousse (mousse de foie gras) – a homogeneous mixture with the addition of goose fat;
• foie gras pate (pate de foie gras) – fatty liver content of at least 50%;
• foie gras parfait (parfait de foie gras) – fatty liver content of at least 75% ^[6].

From history, you can learn that initially only goose liver was used to make foie gras. Today, the championship in this matter has passed to the ducks. There are also hybrids specially bred for such purposes, which are called mulards.

Industrial production, technology and volumes

The fattening of poultry grown for foie gras takes place in three stages ^[7]. First, for four weeks, the chicks are fed naturally so that they grow up quickly. For the next four weeks, they restrict their movement by placing them in cramped cages and feeding mainly on protein foods, as well as foods containing starch. Such a diet also promotes rapid growth and weight gain. After that, two-month-old chicks come to the force-feeding stage. This is called gavage (from the French word “gavage”). The process uses a special tube, about 12,5 centimeters long. The auger inside it pushes about 1,8 kilograms of grain down the bird’s throat every day, which is about 10 times the norm. This stage lasts from 12 days to 21 days.

Small farms in France also have permission to fatten ducks to make fatty livers. Moreover, the taste of such foie gras is more refined and noble. For this, ducks are bred in incubators. The first few weeks they are indoors, and when they are a little older, they are released into the meadow to graze on their own. After the chick reaches the age of about 13 weeks and gains a weight of at least 1 kilogram, proceed to the Gavage, which can last up to 18 days. During this time, the liver of the force-fed bird enlarges. They feed her mainly corn at least three times a day. On such farms, the slaughter of ducks, as well as cutting and processing their liver, most often takes place directly at the place of their feeding.

Every year, France holds the record for the production of this delicacy. A slightly smaller volume is accounted for by Bulgaria, Hungary, Spain and China. In France itself, the region of Aquitaine is the leader in this indicator, in which about 9000 tons of products are produced annually. It is followed by the Pyrenees and the Pays de la Loire, which together produce approximately 7000 tons.

Approximately 25% of the total production in France comes from the department of Landes. About 15% are processed by industrialists in the Atlantic Pyrenees. In third place is the department of the Vendée with a volume of approximately 13% of the total.

Chemical composition and useful properties

The energy value of foie gras is on average about 420 kcal. It contains no more than 12 grams of protein, and almost 45 grams of fat. Carbohydrates are given only 2 grams per 100 grams of product.

A rich vitamin composition is also presented here, as well as a valuable mineral complex. The content of vitamins in this product is quite high: B vitamins, vitamin A, niacin and choline. It surpasses even some herbal products. The mineral complex is represented by sodium, potassium, sulfur, phosphorus, chlorine, magnesium, calcium, iron, manganese, copper, selenium and iodine ^[8]. Most of all, foie gras contains selenium (about 80%); this product is also rich in sodium (about 54%), iron and copper ^[9].

There are saturated omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids, unsaturated fats, ash, cholesterol, essential and essential amino acids in the fatty liver.

Thanks to this unique composition, the product has many useful properties. For example, it can slow down aging and increase life expectancy. It is noticed that in the French regions, where this product is often eaten, the mortality rate from cardiovascular diseases is significantly low. At the same time, people live there much longer than in all other provinces. Scientists have called this miraculous phenomenon the French paradox.

The presence of saturated fatty acids in foie gras can significantly reduce the level of bad cholesterol in the blood, thanks to which the delicacy is the prevention of atherosclerosis. These acids promote blood circulation, improve the general condition of the body, energize and vigor, and also have a positive effect on brain activity. Their high content can favorably affect the condition of nails, hair and skin.

Bans, criticism and delicacy analogues

Recently, this dish has received a lot of indignation from pet advocates, related to the cruel treatment of birds during force-feeding. Numerous videos they filmed while fattening are reflected in a series of protests against the production of the delicacy. Because of this, in many European countries it is forbidden to make and sell foie gras. Observations carried out at the enterprises for the production of this product made it possible to identify some points that speak of cruelty to animals: visually distinguishable injuries to the throat of some individuals, sometimes even lacerations and swelling in the neck, poor general condition of birds, lameness and more. In some cases, even ruptures of the artificially enlarged liver were recorded, followed by hemorrhage into the abdominal cavity. After that, animal rights activists began to advocate the rejection of the production of this product around the world. Many world stars support this movement. Particularly noteworthy is the participation in such projects of the famous actress Kate Winslet and the equally famous Roger Moore.

In connection with the situation that has arisen, many supporters of unfortunate animals began to look for an alternative to such production, and some even succeeded in this. For example, a replacement for the traditional gavage was invented ^[10]. Instead of force-feeding, they suggested using the predisposition of geese to accumulate excess weight in the pre-winter period. However, year-round slaughter of birds became impossible, which led to an increase in the cost of fattening. In addition, the Institute of Agricultural Research of France could not, with this option, obtain a liver that would be suitable for making foie gras.

The next alternative was “faux gras” – a vegetable imitation of the traditional pâté. Translated from French – “fake”. It was an invention of the Belgian Union for the Protection of Animals, who claimed that in terms of texture and taste this dish is in no way inferior to natural. Truffles and champagne could be distinguished in its composition. Thanks to numerous advertising and the support of eminent stars, sales of this product are growing. By 2011, approximately 160 cans of the product had been sold in Belgium.

Fans of vegetarian cuisine will love the soy imitation of foie gras, called “tofoie gras”. This product contains herbal ingredients such as margarine, smoky tofu, porcini powder, wine, soy milk, spices and cognac.

Cooking application

According to the processing method, three main types of foie gras can be distinguished:

• raw (cru) is the basis for the preparation of various dishes, it is used to prepare a canned version of the delicacy, since this product can be stored raw for a short time;
• semi-finished (mi cuit) – pasteurized product at a temperature of 100 degrees, sold in terrines (clay bowls) or glass containers; such a product can be stored in the refrigerator for several months, retaining its structure, taste and aroma;
• canned (cuit) is a product often referred to as “regular” foie gras and obtained by sterilizing the liver in an autoclave at high temperature; its shelf life usually reaches several years.

Foie gras is traditionally consumed cold: it is served immediately after cold appetizers. This delicacy is usually used at festive feasts. It has gained popularity and the use of this product in hot form as an independent dish or as a component in more complex dishes.

Foie gras is an exquisite pairing with white dessert wine, but there are also lovers to complement it with red spirits, especially those where the content of tannins predominates (Bordeaux or Madiran).

Making foie gras at home

To prepare this delicacy you will need:

• fat goose liver – 800 grams;
• Madera or Cognac – 250 grams;
• truffle (mushrooms) – 2 pcs;
• salt;
• spice.

Pour a glass of alcoholic drink over the liver, add salt and spices and leave overnight in the refrigerator. In the morning, add finely chopped mushrooms there and rub it all for an hour. Then transfer to a porcelain bowl, level and bake in a water bath in the oven for about an hour. You need to use only a completely cooled dish.

Harm and contraindications

Some producers may use various chemicals, hormones or drugs to increase production, which will primarily affect the condition of the bird’s liver. They can cause various negative reactions in a person who has tasted such a dish, ranging from allergies to poisoning.

American scientists have found that during the stress caused by force-feeding, harmful proteins are formed in the body of birds – amyloid fibrils, the same as in Alzheimer’s disease, which can cause damage to brain cells. ^[11][12]. They also have a destructive effect on the pancreas, causing cell damage similar to those in type XNUMX diabetes.

Conclusions

Foie gras is an exquisite delicacy that is directly related to the French paradox. Using it, you can prolong life and slow down the aging of the body. This product is very rich in vitamins and minerals, and its composition has a beneficial effect on the human body. However, the stress that birds experience when forced to produce this product can significantly reduce the beneficial properties of the delicacy. ^[13]. This is often said by American scientists, researchers from the Institute of The Human Society of the United States ^[14]. Animal advocates are proposing to ban the production of this product due to the cruelty to birds that invariably accompanies this process. However, gourmets around the world still continue to use foie gras, praising its taste, delicate texture and exquisite aroma. To eat or not to eat foie gras is a personal matter for each person, but now, after reading this article, one can draw reasonable conclusions in one direction or another.

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