Filters in sunscreen

When choosing a sunscreen, we primarily focus on the SPF. Everything that you did not know about physical and chemical UV filters, we will try to reveal in this article.

Why do you need sunscreen in cosmetics?

In short – to protect the skin from exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Of course, our body is able to protect itself from solar radiation – with the help of sunburn and the self-healing function of the skin. But the natural resource is designed for a maximum of 50 – 000 hours, and we spend much longer in the sun during our lives.

Modern manufacturers include in sunscreens two types of UV filters:

  • physical, or mineral (titanium dioxide and others);

  • chemical (oxybenzone, mexoril, etc.).

Let’s talk about each of them in more detail.

Physical (mineral) filters

They work like a mirror, reflecting the sun’s rays and keeping them away from the skin. Some beauty bloggers urge to use only them at all, but this is at least unreasonable: mineral filters have disadvantages that everyone should be aware of.

  • A product with mineral filters can leave white streaks on the skin.

  • It can be accidentally erased and not noticed, thus leaving the skin without protection.

The most common physical filter is titanium dioxide. It appears as part of titanium dioxide.

Physical filters work like a mirror, reflecting the sun’s rays.

Chemical filters

Unlike physical ones, they do not reflect, but absorb solar radiation before it harms the skin. Chemical filters are activated under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, destroying the energy of the sun’s rays harmful to the skin, but at the same time they themselves are destroyed. That’s why, while being outdoors during the sunny season, it is necessary to regularly renew the sunscreen on the skin.

Some chemical filters neutralize type B rays, while others are effective against type A rays. In modern products, they try to combine them to protect against a wide range of UV rays.

The most effective sunscreen is one that contains both physical and chemical filters.

There are a lot of chemical filters, the list can be continued almost indefinitely. In addition, some brands (for example, L’Oréal Paris, Vichy, La Roche-Posay) develop their own complexes. It’s impossible to list them all – let’s focus on the most common ones.

Avobenzone (Avobenzone)

It is also butyl methoxy-dibenzoyl-methane, Parsol 1789. Responsible for the absorption of UV-A radiation.

Mexoril

Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL (terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid drometrizoletrisiloxane) can be found in sunscreen brands such as L’Oréal Paris, Lancôme, Giorgio Armani, Garnier, Biotherm. Mexoryl SX protects against UV A and Mexoryl XL protects against UV A and B.

Tinosorb

Tinosorb S and Tinosorb M also shared their areas of responsibility. Tinosorb S, also known as bis-ethyl-hexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, protects against type A UV rays. Tinosorb M protects against type B radiation.

Octocrylene

Octocrylene is powerless against UVA rays, but absorbs UVB rays that cause sunburn.

Other filters

Long-sleeved clothing and a hat that shade the face can be considered reliable protection from the sun. As for natural vegetable filters, it is naive to count on this category. These include various oils: olive, hemp, sesame, soybean, macadamia, avocado, shea, coconut, etc.

Nearly a century of sunscreen development has left only physical and chemical filters in play. More precisely, their combination is better when the effect of physical and chemical filters is summed up.

Unfortunately, vegetable oils provide almost no protection from the sun.

Prohibited and dangerous filters

Some time ago, zinc oxide was banned – it used to be used as a physical filter. But in general, it is very difficult to name any specific components. “Some filters are banned in Europe but not in the US, and vice versa,” explains Alexander Prokofiev. – Therefore, it is easier to list some sunscreens that are restricted for use:

  • can cause allergies: aminobenzoic acid, octocrylene, benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone), avobenzone;

  • can cause phototoxic reactions: camphor methylbenzylidene, benzophenone-3;

  • have a hormone-like effect, although this effect is negligible and it is wrong to talk about potential harm at the moment: benzophenone-3, camphor methylbenzylidene, homosalate, ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate.

There are no prohibited ingredients in creams sold in our country.

Rating of cosmetics with sun protection filters

Top best products, according to the editors of Healthy-Food.

Gels

Gel-cream matting Anthelios XL, SPF 50+, La Roche-Posay

Provides a very high degree of protection against UVA and UVB rays (Mexoplex® filter complex, titanium dioxide are responsible for this) and gently cares for the skin. It has a dual action against oily sheen: it is instantly absorbed and provides a matte finish, and also resists photoaging and prevents the formation of pigmentation.

Emulsions

Idéal Soleil Melting Sun Emulsion, SPF 50, Vichy

The waterproof formula with chemical filters mexoril and tinosorb effectively protects against ultraviolet radiation even while swimming. The product also includes vitamin E and thermal water, which are known for their antioxidant effect.

Creams

Advanced Brightening UV Defense Sunscreen, SPF 50, High Protection, SkinCeuticals

Thanks to a complex of physical and chemical filters (mexoril, titanium dioxide, tinosorb), it provides reliable protection from sunlight. Tocopherol in the composition of the product is designed to have an antioxidant effect.

Sunscreen Fluid Cream for Sensitive Skin with 100% Mineral Filters Sheer Mineral UV Defense, SPF 50, SkinCeuticals

The product contains exclusively mineral filters (titanium dioxide, Z-Cote), provides broad spectrum protection and is suitable for people with very sensitive skin. Plankton extract increases its protective functions and reduces susceptibility to ultraviolet rays.

Soleil Bronzer Face Sunscreen, SPF 30, Lancôme

The cream is quickly absorbed, as if enveloping the skin with a protective film, and perfectly protects against ultraviolet radiation. Working in conjunction with titanium dioxide, tinosorb and mexoril prevent photoaging and other negative effects of insolation.

Milk

Waterlover Sun Milk, SPF 30, Biotherm

Softly envelops the skin, softening and protecting it from sun exposure thanks to vitamin E, thermal plankton extract and mexoril filter.

Sprays

Spray Anthelios XL, SPF 50+, La Roche-Posay

The formula, enriched with thermal water and vitamin E, is suitable for sensitive skin and skin prone to allergic reactions to the sun. Mexoril and tinosorb filters provide it with reliable protection from sunlight. The spray does not clog pores.

solar water

Antioxidant Bi-Phase Sun Spray, SPF 30, Vichy

The formula with antioxidants (thermal water and blueberry extract) moisturizes and refreshes the skin, while Mexoril and Tinosorb filters prevent photoaging.

Ambre Solaire Solar Water Spray, SPF 20, Garnier

Enriched with aloe vera extract. SPF filters mexoril and tinosorb reliably protect against sunlight. The tool is almost not felt on the skin.

What sunscreen to choose for protection in the city? Find out by taking our quiz!

What is the name of the sunscreen on the packaging of the cream

The generally accepted designation is SPF, but the abbreviations LF, LPF or IP can be found on jars, tubes and bottles of German, American and French production. They all stand for the same thing – sun protection factor. Read more about the labeling of sunscreens in our article.

You can read more about ingredients, production processes, quality and safety requirements here!

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