The purpose of the facial peel is to remove the superficial layers of the skin in order to reduce wrinkles, scars, acne and dark spots. Strictly speaking, peeling is a medical act, performed by a dermatologist, although the same term is used in institutes. Why is it better to have a peel at a dermatologist?

A chemical peel consists, for the dermatologist, in applying a formulation allowing the superficial layers of the skin to be exfoliated. It can be done in two ways:

• Glycolic acid peel, which is a fruit acid extracted from sugar cane, beets or grapes1. It is more or less concentrated according to the needs of the patients but it remains a gentle peel. It has a strong exfoliating power and its high penetration rate allows the acceleration of cell renewal.
• TCA acid peel (trichloroacetic) is the reference dermatological peel2. More intense, in all cases it requires medical expertise. But its concentration is very flexible depending on the desired result, from a weak peel to a medium peel.

In both cases, several sessions are necessary to achieve the desired result without attacking the skin.

Depending on its age and its dermatological problem, the peel has different functions, all of which aim to improve the appearance of the skin. In other words, smoother skin, a more even and radiant complexion.

• In late adolescence or in young adults, the peeling makes it possible to find a smoother skin in the event of acne by allowing it to regenerate more quickly but also to tighten the dilated pores. This means reducing the appearance of pimples and blackheads already present, and erasing scars directly caused by acne.
• From 30 years, the facial peel makes it possible in particular to erase dark spots or pregnancy masks. It also attenuates the first wrinkles, giving a boost to your skin.
• After 50 years, the peeling, more intense, always aims to give radiance to the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles by smoothing them.

The medical expertise of a dermatologist helps protect against pain associated with peeling. The acid concentration will rise gradually over the course of the sessions, in particular to avoid pain. However, for an average peel, a burning sensation, such as sunburn, will be inevitable. In any case, the dermatologist will prescribe a treatment to reduce irritation between sessions.

The term facial peel is used interchangeably in beauty institutes and dermatologists. But under the same name hide very different processes:

Larger dosages at a dermatologist

As teeth whitening at the dentist will be much more effective than whitening toothpaste, a peel is much more effective at a dermatologist. For one simple reason: regulatory dosages. Dermatologists, through their medical training, can dose the products according to the skin of their patients. Or else advise them against this method if they suffer from a dermatological pathology that would make it dangerous.

A light peel in a beauty salon

In a beauty institute, the professional esthetician has of course been trained in the skin problems that she must treat. But she is not a health professional and she does not have the same tools and the same dosages available. The institute peel will therefore be a more superficial peel, dosed at 30% maximum. This does not mean that it will not have effects, but they will be less visible and less lasting than with a dermatologist.

A very light peel at home

The peels sold in the form of tubes in the trade are in reality scrubs to which glycolic acid has been added, with a very light dosage. Hence its easy to use at home but for a visible radiance boost instantly, or after several applications, but which does not last.

Deciding to have a peel at a dermatologist or institute therefore depends on the results expected and the condition of your skin. Each of these criteria responds to more or less important needs. But a dermatological peel, which is therefore performed by a healthcare professional, is the best guarantee of a real peel in the true sense of the term.