EXPERT OPINION. Symptoms of menopause through the eyes of a dermatologist

The idea that “after 40, life is just beginning” no longer surprises anyone. But after 40 comes 50, and with them the inevitable hormonal changes. One positive attitude is no longer enough. How to adapt to the inevitable changes, says expert, Vichy brand dermatologist Altana Bazyleva.

Is it really possible to recognize the approach of menopause by the condition of the skin?

Menopause is preceded by such a condition as premenopause – this is a fairly long period that can last for several years (on average from 2 to 6). Outwardly, premenopause is manifested by a decrease in elasticity, density and tone of the skin, expansion of pores and signs of dehydration – dryness and tightness. However, all these signs may also be associated not with the approaching menopause, but with the influence of other factors, which I will discuss below.

Why do such skin changes occur, what are they caused by, what mechanisms?

Estrogen is a hormone that stimulates the production of the main proteins of youth – collagen and elastin in our tissues. Against the background of a decrease in the premenopausal period of another sex hormone – progesterone, the active production of the stress hormone cortisol begins. Cortisol activates enzymes that accelerate the degradation of collagen and elastin. Along with a decrease in estrogen levels, the production of sebum also decreases, as a result of which the barrier functions of the skin weaken and the hydrolipid layer becomes thinner. Destructive changes affect not only the skin, but also deeper structures: the subcutaneous fat becomes thinner, the ligamentous apparatus weakens, and the bone structure undergoes changes. Facial features sag, “slide” down.
If in a young body the production and breakdown of collagen occur evenly, fibroblasts are able to synthesize the same amount of protein as it is naturally destroyed, then with age, the destruction process begins to gradually prevail. Moreover, not only the quantity, but also the quality of collagen fibers changes: in young skin they lie in dense, ordered bundles, while with age they become looser and thinner. Therefore, the skin looks less dense, less elastic. Wrinkles, which in youth were visible only with facial expressions, become dynamic and visible even if the face is in a relaxed state.

Can facial features and skin condition change in a similar way outside of menopause?

Decreasing levels of sex hormones over the years and menopause is a natural process. But there are external factors such as stress, lack of sleep, illness, dietary errors, exposure to ultraviolet radiation and poor ecology, smoking, alcohol abuse. They also lead to the degradation of collagen, hyaluronic acid, lipids and other important structures, the impact of the above factors leads to untimely, early aging of the skin, premature weakening of the ligamentous apparatus and thinning of the subcutaneous fat.

Should you change your skin care routine to prevent these changes after 40 or even after 35?

The main preventive measure I would call minimization of all factors that cause premature aging. If we talk about the prevention of age-related changes, it is worth thinking about it at a fairly young age. For example, the habit of using sunscreens should be instilled from childhood, antioxidants and fruit acids can be used from about 20 years old, and products containing retinol, peptides, tyrosinase inhibitors – after 30 years old. These actions will help protect the skin from photoaging and stimulate the production of its own collagen.

By teaching our daughters from childhood to use sunscreen, we take care of the beauty and health of their skin for many years to come.

Since change is inevitable anyway, what kind of care program is needed after 45, after 50 years? What should be added to care, and what should be discarded?

During the period of premenopause and menopause, the first thing to pay attention to is changes in the work of the sebaceous glands – the skin retains moisture worse, which manifests itself in increased dryness, sensitivity, even if the skin has always been oily or combination type. Therefore, in addition to the use of anti-aging products, in home care, you need to pay attention to intensively moisturizing and nourishing products with hyaluronic acid, ceramides and triglycerides (fatty acids). Also, with increased sensitivity and thinning of the barrier layer, it may be worth minimizing concentrations or completely abandoning ingredients that damage the skin barrier.

When choosing funds, focus on age marking?

Age limits in the use of certain cosmetics are rather arbitrary, so many manufacturers in recent years have abandoned age markings (30+ or ​​40+). It is necessary to focus only on the individual characteristics of your skin.

Applying the cream is useful to combine with a light facial massage.

In addition to appropriate cosmetics, what helps to improve the condition and appearance of the skin at this age and how?

To improve the condition and appearance of the skin during this period, it is important to monitor the following points:

  • Weight control. Excess weight, especially in the deformation type of aging, contributes to a more pronounced gravitational ptosis, and, accordingly, the omission of tissues and deterioration of the facial contours.

  • The nature of power. It is important to ensure that the body receives a sufficient amount of healthy vegetable fats. Their deficiency is one of the causes of dry and dull skin. And a large amount of fast carbohydrates and foods with a high glycemic index in the diet causes collagen glycation. In simple terms, a large amount of sugar consumed causes collagen fibers to stick together: they become brittle, inelastic. There is even such a thing as a “sugar” face – flabby, loose, with bags under the eyes.

Adequate exercise improves not only mood, but also the quality of the skin.

Puffiness can be corrected by controlling eating habits, sleep patterns, as well as improving lymph flow through posture correction and various lymphatic drainage techniques, ranging from regular self-massage to cosmetic procedures.

Cosmetics for pre- and menopausal women

For the specific needs of the skin for women about 50 years of age and older, entire lines are created. A scientific approach, research into the effect of hormonal changes on the skin and the possibility of compensating for their consequences led to a renovation in the line Neovadiol Vichy. For women at different stages of this hormonal transition, two lines have been created at once.

In line «Neovadiol Premenopause» There are two options for a day cream – for normal/combination and for dry skin. Both of them increase the level of hydration (in the composition of Vichy thermal water, hyaluronic acid or oils) and have a plumping effect: with regular use, the skin becomes firmer, contours are more defined, and wrinkles are smoothed. At the heart of the formula, in addition to the components already mentioned, is a combination of proxylan and cassia extract, which helps to compensate for the visible signs of the effect of cortisol on the skin, stimulating the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid. Niacinamide helps to moisturize the skin and reduce pigmentation, has a calming effect. The version of Neovadiol Premenopause lifting day cream for dry skin is additionally enriched with a whole bunch of oils (apricot kernel, shea, rice bran).

line “Neovadiol Menopause” visually slightly different in the color of the jar and, of course, in the composition balanced for the needs of women’s skin during this period. There is only one version here, because in menopause, the skin is usually drier. The main active ingredients are the same, but in moisturizing, the emphasis on fatty acids is increased: the composition includes omega-6 and omega-9 in a rational ratio. The cream, in addition to modeling action and improving skin elasticity, compensates for the loss of lipids that strengthen its barrier.

Neovadiol Menopause Nourishing Revitalizing Night Cream contains even more beneficial plant oils. It contains precious oils of evening primrose, limnantes, safflower, and soothing panthenol. So that in the morning the skin looks rested, nourished, more dense and elastic. The cream is very comfortable, easy to apply and spread over the skin.

In our opinion, the stellar component of the updated line biphasic menopausal serum 5 actions Neovadiol. It is suitable for women both in premenopause and after. In terms of composition, it seems that this serum combines everything the skin needs during this difficult period in order to maintain and restore its elasticity, smoothness, even tone, and even visually tighten the oval of the face. Ingredients – a combination of proxylan and cassia extract, essential omega-6 and -9, a small vitamin cocktail of niacinamide combined with antioxidants, a vitamin C derivative and vitamin E, glycolic acid for gentle exfoliation and skin renewal and, of course, Vichy volcanic water with all its mineral wealth. The result is a refreshed look, radiant smooth skin, reduced pigmentation.

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