EXPERT OPINION. How to take care of allergic skin

When an allergy appears on the skin, the question arises not only of treatment, but also of appropriate care that would help maintain the condition of such skin (or at least not worsen it). Advice on this delicate topic is given by a dermatologist, La Roche-Posay brand expert Alexander Prokofiev.

What specific needs may distinguish the skin of people prone to allergies?

When we talk about “allergic” skin, we most often mean very sensitive skin that easily reacts to irritants with redness, unpleasant sensations such as itching, burning, tingling. Allergy itself can give very vivid manifestations on the skin, which require the attention of a doctor and the appointment of appropriate drugs. In addition, there are a number of diseases, the so-called allergic dermatosis (allergic dermatitis, toxicoderma, atopic dermatitis, urticaria), which are based on allergic inflammation of the skin. However, whatever the reasons, the protective barrier of the skin suffers, the bonds between the cells become weak, and the permeability to irritants and allergens increases. Therefore, skin care should improve its barrier functions, restore it.

How often are allergy manifestations on the skin associated with a violation of its microbiome? What role does the microbiome play in the development of allergies?

The state of the microbiome is directly related to the protective functions of the skin. A balanced and diverse microbiome protects the skin from external factors and, as a result, prevents the development of allergic reactions. But to say that microbiome disturbances lead to allergic reactions is wrong. Allergic reactions arise from contact with an allergen, and microbiome disturbances reduce the protective function of the skin, as a result of which it becomes more vulnerable, including in relation to allergens. Therefore, we can say that microbiome imbalance is one of the factors contributing to the development of hypersensitivity and allergy manifestations on the skin.

This is what skin looks like with a intact and damaged protective barrier.

How to take care of allergic skin? What and how often to wash? What cannot be done, and what must be done?

Skin care should be gentle and minimal at the time of exacerbation, this will allow you to quickly deal with this problem and return to your usual care routine. Use warm water to wash your face so as not to irritate your skin with excessively hot or cold water. As cleansers, use soft gels or foams designed for sensitive, allergy-prone skin. Do not use scrubs and do not rub your face hard when washing, and then gently pat the skin with a towel.

After cleansing, apply serum or cream for sensitive, allergy-prone skin. In the summer, when the sun is very strong, skin sensitivity can increase, and UV protection is very important. Look for sunscreens labeled “for sensitive skin.”

If you have very sensitive and allergy-prone skin, then you should not think that everything is forbidden and nothing can be done.

At the time of exacerbation, of course, care should be as gentle as possible and you need to use a minimum of funds. But as the skin recovers, you can expand the cosmetic palette. New products need to be tested for tolerance, and only then introduced into a regular care ritual.

How are, for example, anti-aging cosmetics or other targeted products (sun protection, etc.) combined with special care?

Care products for sensitive and allergy-prone skin are designed to support or prevent, if possible, allergic manifestations. If you see that you cannot solve this problem on your own, then you need to see a doctor. The specialist will prescribe treatment and recommend the necessary care.

If there is a need to integrate anti-aging products into care, then I would recommend diluting these care lines in time. For example, if you want to use products with vitamin C, then it is better to take them in the morning, since ascorbic acid also has antioxidant activity and will protect the skin during the day, and use care for sensitive skin in the evening. If a retinol product is planned, then use it in the evening and remember that retinol is a very active ingredient and can cause skin irritation. Be sure to first test the product, evaluate its tolerance, and only then enter into care.

As for sunscreen, apply it in the morning as the last step after your basic skincare routine.

What are the features of the La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermallergo line?

The Toleriane Dermallergo line was developed specifically for those with hypersensitive and allergy-prone skin. The heart of the products is La Roche-Posay thermal water, which soothes the skin. As well as a new ingredient in sphingobiome (contained in creams and fluid) – an extract obtained from the bacteria of La Roche-Posay thermal water, acting on the microbiome. These products moisturize and soothe the skin, strengthen its protective barrier, contribute to the normalization of the microbiome, relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Can the skin react negatively to care, for example, in a separate area (say, on the eyelids)?

Yes, it can be, because the skin in the eye area is thinner. In addition, we use different products for different areas of the skin, so the reaction occurs precisely at the site of application. However, a reaction that has appeared, for example, in the eye area, can gradually go beyond this area. The first thing to do is to cancel the care product that has fallen “under suspicion”. It is necessary to determine which ingredient caused this reaction and try to avoid it in the future. Ideally, the situation should be discussed with an allergist.

With the help of special tests, the doctor will find out what exactly causes an allergic reaction.

Is a skin reaction to a particular substance always an allergy? At what age can an allergy start and can it go away completely?

No, it can also be contact (irritable) dermatitis, when the substance itself or its high concentration causes discomfort and redness. If there is a clear connection between the use of the product and the appearance of reactions on the skin that bother and do not go away, then it is definitely better not to self-medicate, but to seek help from a dermatologist.

Allergic reactions can appear at any age, and they can be caused both by substances with which we are in direct contact, and by those that we eat, inhale, etc. Some allergies can go away, some are treated quite successfully.

How to combine the use of an ointment prescribed by a doctor with skin care?

Of course, ideally, such a question is discussed with the attending physician. However, most often medicinal ointments and creams are applied to clean skin, and care products are applied after 15–20 minutes. Sometimes a general body moisturizer is applied immediately after a shower, and when it is completely absorbed, a drug is used.

Moisturizing care can be applied both before and after the application of drugs. This is determined on a case-by-case basis.

What do you think is the key skincare tip for allergy sufferers?

Always test any new tool you want to use. Apply a small amount to the inner surface of the forearm. Assess how the skin reacts during the first hour and during the day. If there are no negative reactions, then cosmetics can be used.

Overview of cosmetics for skin prone to allergies

According to Healthy-Food, cosmetics intended for very sensitive skin, including allergic skin, are often based on thermal waters, which are distinguished by a special mineral composition and the presence of probiotics. Ranked #1 for sensitive skin by Russian dermatologists based on a 2021 survey, La Roche-Posay is gradually expanding its Toleriane Dermallergo line. It already includes serum, cream, fluid and care for the skin around the eyes.

Serum Toleriane Ultra Dermallergo, La Roche-Posay

The serum is suitable for both the face and the skin around the eyes. It differs in that it not only soothes the skin and reduces the manifestation of its negative reactions (this effect is achieved, among other things, thanks to the neurosensin peptide), but also, in principle, helps to reduce the sensitivity of the skin to the action of allergens (pollen, household chemicals, air pollution, etc.). .), strengthens its protective functions.

Light fluid Toleriane Dermallergo, La Roche-Posay

This light fluid is a complete moisturizing treatment for normal or combination sensitive allergic skin. It enhances the protective function of the skin and has a beneficial effect on the skin microbiome thanks to the sphingobiome probiotic. Shea butter, squalane and other active ingredients provide protection and hydration of the skin, maintaining its water balance. The composition of the fluid also includes a calming neurosensin.

Cream Toleriane Dermallergo, La Roche-Posay

The cream soothes, restores comfort and strengthens the defenses of dry, very sensitive skin. The main difference from the fluid lies precisely in the texture, while the active composition and purpose of these products are generally the same.

Intensive care for the eye contour Toleriane Dermallergo Yeux, La Roche-Posay

The cream helps to reduce the sensitivity of especially vulnerable skin around the eyes, reduces swelling and redness, moisturizes and softens. Formulated with skin-soothing niacinamide. Unlike many eye creams, Toleriane Dermallergo Yeux can also be applied to the mobile eyelid if necessary.

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