EXPERT OPINION. How to care for the skin around the eyes

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Healthy-Food Presents

It seems that we are seeing two conflicting trends: on the one hand, simplification of the care regimen and multifunctional products, and on the other hand, multi-step care. If everyone is already used to facial serums, then serum for the skin around the eyes is still something new. We are discussing with L’Oréal Paris expert Anastasia Burobina whether there is any point in such a cosmetic product, whether it can replace the cream and, in general, how to properly care for the skin of the eyes.

Is it possible to use serum around the eyes instead of a cream or is it necessary with it? And why?

There are serums for independent use, and this is necessarily stated in the instructions for the product. But more often it is recommended to use the serum together with the cream. It doesn’t matter if we are talking about the area around the eyes or the face as a whole. Why? Serum is a highly concentrated product with a light texture, its purpose as part of the skin care routine is to target specific skin problems. Therefore, its use implies the use in conjunction with regular care (cream), that is, “under it”. Applying the cream on top of the serum contributes to a more intense and complex effect on the skin. If the serum is not closed with a cream (we are talking, for example, about moisturizing hyaluronic serum), moisture will evaporate freely, all hyaluronic polymers that form the basis of the product will begin to slowly dry out and shrink. And, accordingly, we will feel not very pleasant sensations – tightness, dryness. The fatty component of the cream just prevents this evaporation and does not allow discomfort.

How is an eye serum different from a face serum? Is it possible to apply it not only around the eyes, but also on the entire face?

If we talk about serums from the same line with a similar composition, then the difference is likely to be in the concentration of the active composition. The fact is that the skin in the eye area is thinner than on the rest of the face (in the projection of the orbit, its thickness is on average 0,8 mm), there is no subcutaneous fat. The skin is attached directly to the circular muscle of the eye and, accordingly, repeats all its facial movements. We constantly blink, squint, squint, smile – all this is the work of the circular muscle of the eye, and therefore a constant load on the skin, which in this area does not have a “shock-absorbing pillow” in the form of subcutaneous fat. Therefore, a special composition is selected for the skin around the eyes.

Serums and creams do not replace each other. The selection of personal cosmetics depends on the condition of the skin and its needs.

In general, how does anti-aging eye care differ from anti-aging facial skin care?

The differences are fundamental. To summarize, I believe that anti-aging skin care around the eyes requires more attention, a more thorough and accurate approach. Because the eyes immediately give out age: mimic wrinkles, hernial protrusions, puffiness, overhanging of the upper eyelid – all this is instantly readable.

Eyes give out in the first place and mood, and fatigue, and age.

Another important point. As a rule, anti-aging eye care products do not use aggressive ingredients, such as AHA acids, which are very popular in anti-aging facial cosmetics because they stimulate cell renewal. Nevertheless, there is a very delicate area around the eyes with thin skin, which, with the slightest damage, can give unstable regeneration.

How to apply serum and cream on the eyelids and skin around the eyes?

The method of application largely depends on the type of product and the recommendations for its use indicated on the package. If we are talking about hyaluronic serum, then I recommend applying it to the lower fixed and upper movable eyelids close to the ciliary edge and gently rub in without stretching the skin. But it is advisable to do this in the morning or two to three hours before bedtime. If you are “late” and transfer the beauty ritual to the late evening, then swelling may appear in the morning. And, as I said, serum (especially if it is water-based) should be covered with cream. Also, after applying the serum and / or cream, it is useful to do a light massage along the lymphatic drainage lines: from the upper eyelid, we draw our fingers to the hairline, then to the temples, and from the lower eyelid to the chin lymph nodes in order to “pump” the lymphatic system, eliminate puffiness. Plus, at night, I do not recommend applying any serum close to the ciliary edge, only along the bone edge of the orbit.

How to wash your face in terms of cleansing the skin around the eyes? How to remove eye makeup without stretching the skin, and is it possible?

Of course, you can wash your face without stretching the skin. You just don’t have to make the wrong moves. Best of all, in my opinion, make-up in the area around the eyes is removed by oils. Either hydrophilic or water-in-oil or oil-in-water products. You need to moisten cotton pads with one or another eye makeup remover, put them on the projection of the orbit, press them close to the cilia and count to 60 – that is, hold the pads for a whole minute. And then gently, with gentle movements, without stretching the skin, collect the remnants of makeup. I myself always do this and never rub my eyes, because because of this, the skin is stretched, injured, and even eyelashes can fall out. Cleansing should be as gentle and calm as possible.

To remove makeup from the eyes, it is necessary to attach cotton pads soaked with a special agent to the eyelids.

What complex care in the cosmetologist’s office can be recommended against wrinkles under the eyes (nasolacrimal sulcus, etc.)?

It depends on the type of aging. I will give examples. Here I have a finely wrinkled type, that is, with age, the bones show through more clearly, there is a pronounced skeletonization of the face, the eyeball sinks deeper into the orbit, the temples fail, a volume deficit forms between the eyeball and the orbital part itself. This deficiency manifests itself as a nasolacrimal groove, a kind of failure. Plus, a large number of facial wrinkles are formed. They are the dominant feature in this type of aging. In this case, a serious cosmetic approach involves, firstly, a slight correction of the nasolacrimal sulcus by the hands of a very experienced specialist, which will help to avoid a fairly common hypercorrection (Tyndall effect). Secondly, permanent mesotherapeutic or biorevitalizing procedures may be required every three to four weeks (the course is determined individually) based on a composition that improves microcirculation in this area. Blueness and congestion often appear precisely in the medial (inner) corner of the eye, so it is very important to improve blood supply and tissue oxygenation here and accelerate all metabolic processes so that there is no congestion. An electrostatic field massage is perfect. Well, and, in fact, the use of products with hyaluronic acid in the form of serums, injections, creams.

Another morphotype of aging is deformation-edematous. Here is another problem, the changes will be formed by edema, hernial protrusion of the paint sac. In this case, it makes no sense to make injections with hyaluronic acid in this zone. Decongestants and drainage agents, as well as lymphatic drainage massage – manual or hardware, in regular courses will help here best. Among other things, antioxidants are especially appropriate in this case, because edema is always fluid stagnation that puts pressure on blood vessels and disrupts metabolic processes in tissues. With the deformation-edematous type of aging, cosmetologists mainly use collagen substitutes.

Treatments for the skin around the eyes are significantly different from treatments for the face.

How to quickly get rid of puffiness under the eyes?

To quickly get rid of puffiness (I mean morning swelling), you need to put something super cold on your eyelids for a short time. This will cause compression of the vessels that carry blood, the main source of water for the intercellular space. As soon as we apply ice, for 30 seconds, the vessels instantly narrow, the blood filling in them becomes less pronounced, respectively, and the flow of fluid into the intercellular space decreases, and the edema slowly begins to go away. So any patches and masks for the area around the eyes that have been stored in the refrigerator or freezer will do. Massage with ice cubes will also help to remove swelling as quickly as possible.

An ice cube is a great addition to makeup when it comes to morning puffiness under the eyes.

As I already said, lymphatic drainage massage with the help of an electric field relieves puffiness. It is performed by special microcurrent maniples connected to the device. Manual lymphatic drainage massage also reduces swelling, but the effect of electricity, as practice shows, is more effective.

How to use an eye mask correctly? How often should this be done?

My personal recommendation: it should be cold. In general, cream for the area around the eyes, serum, patches, masks, if you are prone to puffiness, it is better to store in the refrigerator. After applying, I advise you to cover the mask with cling film (of course, first you need to make sure that there is no allergic reaction to the product), put two pieces of ice on top and lie down for 30 seconds. Then remove the ice and lie down for another 30 seconds. Put ice again for 30 seconds. And repeat this manipulation for 5-10 minutes. You can do this as needed. If you suffer from edema, then at least every morning. If you are trying to deal not so much with swelling as with fine wrinkles, then ice is not necessary. But covering the mask with cling film also makes sense, because it creates occlusion, a greenhouse effect that promotes the absorption of active substances. This mask can be done every other day. In any case, it makes sense to read the instructions and follow the manufacturer’s specific recommendations.

Healthy-Food Presents

Continuing the conversation, one cannot help but imagine the Revitalift Filler Serum for the skin around the eyes from L’Oréal Paris. In addition to pure hyaluronic acid, it also contains pure caffeine, which helps to reduce dark circles and bags under the eyes, as well as niacinamide, known as a microcirculation stimulator, and vitamin CG to enhance the effect of radiance. That is, the serum perfectly moisturizes, helps to cope with wrinkles and dark circles.

The serum contains low molecular weight and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. Skin is instantly hydrated and looks more rested, and after 2 weeks, wrinkles around the eyes are visibly reduced. An instant cooling effect is created thanks to the flexible tip applicator. With the help of the serum, we create a good hydro-reserve for the skin, which provides it with comfort and supports anti-aging activity.

Since the serum is equipped with a special applicator, a special scheme for its application is recommended.