EXPERT COLUMN. When and how to get rid of age spots?

In autumn, not only chickens are counted, but also age spots, and the “hunting season” begins. What to do to get rid of these unpleasant reminders of the past summer, says dermatovenereologist, La Roche-Posay expert Alexander Prokofiev.

What is pigmentation?

Pigmentation is when parts of the skin appear darker than the rest of the skin due to the excessive presence of melanin.

Melanin is a pigment produced by melanocytes in our skin. This pigment is necessary to protect it from the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays. There are more than 1000 melanocytes in one square centimeter of skin! Each of them is associated with approximately 40 skin keratinocytes and protects them from ultraviolet radiation. That is, it is a well-built protective system.

The mechanism of skin hyperpigmentation: 1) Under the influence of UV rays, free radicals (active oxygen) are formed. 2) Melanocytes produce an excess amount of melanin. 3) A pigment spot appears.

Ultraviolet stimulates melanocytes, and as a result, melanin pigment is formed. When there is a lot of sun, the cells work intensively and produce a lot of melanin. As a result, we get a tan, which is essentially a protective reaction to exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Those who live in regions where the sun is strong all year round are genetically tan or dark skin (because it has a lot of melanin). If there is little sun, then the skin remains light – remember the inhabitants of the northern countries, they have very fair skin, and they tolerate ultraviolet radiation very poorly, the skin quickly turns red and burns, no even tan is obtained.

How to deal with pigmentation?

If we want to fight pigmentation, then we need two components of this process:

  1. directly destroy the accumulated pigment;

  2. protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation.

Therefore, in the middle lane, where there is a clear change of seasons and the activity of solar radiation is much less in autumn-winter than in spring-summer, it is advisable to take active steps to remove age spots when there is no pronounced solar activity. It is recommended to limit exposure to direct sunlight as much as possible.

If a pigment spot has already appeared, with a high degree of probability, if preventive measures are not taken, new pigmentation may appear in the future after the sunny seasons.

Barrier methods can be used for protection: being in the shade, wearing long sleeves, wide-brimmed hats, using a sun umbrella. However, the most effective way is to use sunscreen before going out and renew it every 1,5-2 hours. It is necessary to choose sunscreens with maximum protection factors and UVA and B filters. Sunscreen must be used all year round.

Barrier sun protection combined with sunscreen cosmetics is the best solution.

Pigmentation can be directly affected by phototherapy, laser resurfacing, peeling (cryo-peeling, ultrasonic and chemical) and microdermabrasion. Special preparations and cosmetics are also used that fight pigmentation.

Age spots can be removed using various cosmetic procedures.

The mechanism of action of the substances used today in anti-pigmentation cosmetics is based on the fact that they block the synthesis of tyrosinase, an enzyme that accelerates the formation of melanin from its precursor, tyrosine. This melanin pigment inhibition is safe for skin cells and effective against pigmentation. These substances include:

  • azelaic acid;

  • vitamin C;

  • kojic acid;

  • glabridin;

  • arbutin.

Of course, the list of active ingredients that can affect age spots in one way or another is not limited to these substances.

Cosmetics against pigmentation (editorial selection)

The editors of Healthy-Food have selected several home remedies for the fight against age spots. Some of them have been successfully tested by us – pigmentation has really become less noticeable.

Intensive Serum Retinol B3 Serum, La Roche-Posay

Retinol is called by many experts the “gold standard” in anti-aging care. It promotes skin cell renewal and is one of the most powerful antioxidants. As a result of the use of serum, wrinkles are not only smoothed out, but pigment spots become less noticeable, and the complexion is evened out. The soothing niacinamide in its composition can also have an effect on pigmentation.

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Highly effective anti-pigmentation serum Discoloration Defense Serum, SkinCeuticals

Serum purposefully acts on age spots and is able to influence even the oldest and most persistent of them. The first results are noticeable after two weeks: the visibility of age spots is reduced, the overall skin tone and texture are noticeably evened out. A little video tutorial on how to apply it:

Active ingredients: tranexamic acid, niacinamide (vitamin B3) and skin-renewing HEPES. Serum is recommended to be used for at least 3 months for a full effect.

Serum for even skin tone Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Solution, Kiehl’s

The action of this serum is based on active vitamin C in a high concentration, as well as peony and white birch extracts known for their “anti-pigmentation” and skin tone-leveling properties. The skin acquires an even tone, smoothness and radiance. The tool is also suitable for getting rid of post-acne spots.

Peeling serum night action in ampoules Liftactiv Specialist Glyco-C, Vichy

A wonderful cocktail for skin renewal, getting rid of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. The formula is based on skin-renewing glycolic acid (10%), citric acid and HEPES combined with natural vitamin C. These components smooth the skin, even out its color and relief. The formula is supplemented with hyaluronic acid, which moisturizes the skin and makes the use of the serum very comfortable. Due to the high concentration of acids that act as peeling, the serum is used only at night, and during the day it is necessary to apply sunscreen cosmetics. For a good effect, it is recommended to take a two-month course. The content of one ampoule is enough for two applications.

Ampoules peeling effect with glycolic acid Revitalift Laser x3, L’Oréal Paris

Another example of a night serum in ampoules with a peeling effect. The exfoliating effect is provided by glycolic acid at a concentration of 10%. The skin is smoothed, becomes more fresh, elastic, radiant, and age spots are less noticeable.

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