What is actually the most damaging thing to the skin? How to deal with skin imperfections? What is there to be beautiful? At the request of WDay.ru, an expert in the field of dermatology, owner of the Skin Health Institute clinic in Beverly Hills, Dr. Obagzhi gave honest answers to the most common questions about the beauty and health of the skin.
How to properly care for your skin
What is most harmful to the skin?
First, the neglecting the daily rule of skin cleansing twice a day – in the morning and before bedtime. It is necessary to wash your face with a properly selected product that cleanses the skin without drying it out or causing irritation. Oily skin should be cleansed with a special product for oily skin, which will remove excess sebum and dry the skin. For dry skin, a moisturizing cleanser is suitable. Cleansing the skin before bed is extremely important, as it is necessary to remove make-up, dirt particles and bacteria that have accumulated on it from the surface of the skin during the day.
Second, the exposure to hot water on the skin… Hot water can increase both the oiliness of the skin – increase the level of sebum production, and its dryness – dehydration. In both cases, side effects such as skin irritation and inflammation can be provoked. Therefore, it is preferable to use lukewarm water.
The third factor that negatively affects the condition of the skin is insufficient water intake… Every day we need to consume 1800 ml of water based on a weight of 54,43 kg (30 ml per 907,2 g) to completely flush out toxins from our body. Juices, soft drinks, and other liquids cannot replace water.
Of course, the sun does serious damage to the skin, destroying skin DNA, smoking, which slows down the cell cycle, excessive consumption of caffeine, leading to dehydration, and sugar, which promotes glycation.
How do you feel about the exfoliation procedure? How often can peeling be done? What types of peels are suitable for different skin types?
Dead skin cells are naturally removed from the surface of the skin every day. There is a balance between the number of new skin cells and the number of those that are exfoliated, which allows the skin to be tolerated and able to renew itself. Using microdermabrasion – skin resurfacing – peeling can be beneficial if done every two to four weeks; however, harsh exfoliation procedures and frequent use can expose the skin by removing the protective layer and cause skin irritation and sensitization.
Products containing glycolic acid and other fruit acids can have beneficial effects on the skin when used once daily at a concentration of 6–8% in non-irritating formulations.
For dry and sensitive skin, exfoliants should be avoided and products that strengthen the skin, restore its natural tolerance and reduce skin irritation, such as retinol and antioxidants, which restore the skin’s natural vitality, should be used. After such preparation of the skin, it is possible to use natural exfoliants.
Choose a care method depending on what kind of “imperfections” of the skin you are worried about.
How to deal with skin imperfections?
The concept of “imperfection” is not a medical term, in different countries it is interpreted differently. It can mean foci of inflammation in the form of whiteheads, acne. To combat acne, it is necessary to cleanse the skin with appropriate products for oily skin in the morning and evening; using scrubs with non-irritating formulations once a day to cleanse the pores; using products with an astringent action: to prevent clogging of sebum in the pores and dry pimples.
If by “skin imperfections” is meant uneven pigmentation, which is triggered by exposure to sunlight, hormones or specific skin diseases, it is necessary to use sun protection and special treatment to correct these skin conditions.
The “beauty diet” involves reducing the consumption of red meat, fat and carbohydrates.
How important are diet and nutrition to skin health? What products are best and worst for our skin?
Diet plays a leading role in maintaining the health of our body and skin. Pay attention to the intake of water, proteins and antioxidants – essential components of the diet. Reducing the consumption of red meat, fats and carbohydrates and an increase in the consumption of fish and poultry, as well as limiting the consumption of sugar, will positively affect the condition of the skin.
Are there any side effects from retinol containing products?
Retinol is the active form of vitamin A, an essential element for the health of our body in general and the skin in particular. The lack of active vitamin A is bad for the condition of the skin, hair and nails, as well as our general health. A diet with vitamin A is essential for all our organs, including the skin. Unfortunately, the body does not supply the skin with enough active vitamin A, which is required after 30 years, so the use of surface active vitamin A (retinol + retinoic acid) is extremely important to maintain the functionality and vitality of skin cells.
Many cosmetic companies include retinol in their products, but in many of them retinol is ineffective because it is combined with moisturizing agents that deactivate it, or present in small concentrations that do not have the desired effect.
The American cosmetic brand ZO has developed a unique formulation in which retinol is present in the required concentration. The only side effect of active retinol is a temporary skin response that resolves within two to three weeks (redness, dryness – exfoliation). Then the natural skin tolerance is built up, and these symptoms disappear. There are no short or long term side effects of retinol, it can be used indefinitely.
Sunscreens require regular reapplication.
What are the most common mistakes associated with using sunscreen?
Sunscreens – Top Selling Products Worldwide. The next most popular are moisturizers. However, the use of both is not fully understood by consumers and is not clearly explained by the scientific community.
Sunscreens are accompanied by a specific number – the SPF level, which indicates the intensity of the intended sun protection. However, the biggest misconception is that the higher the SPF level, the better and longer the sun protection will be. In support of my words, I will cite a few facts below.
All (1-2 hours) regardless of the SPF level. This is because over time, sunscreens are wiped off the skin, washed out with sweat, or chemically altered. Therefore, the best way is to reapply the sunscreen every 1 to 2 hours after each bath, including when using waterproof sunscreens, which are essentially a marketing trap. These products are less effective than standard products: they clog pores and make your look messy.
Recent research confirms that sunscreens need to be reapplied systematically. ZO Skin Health sunscreens support the skin’s natural ability to resist UV rays in two ways.
1. Increasing the skin’s immunity to the negative effects of sunlight (antioxidants and vitamin A).
2. The presence of natural melanin protects the skin for 6-8 hours, and filters protect it for 2 hours.