Emollients [what is it]: skin benefits, types, cosmetics from La Roche-Posay

What are emollients?

Emollients are a whole class of active substances, the main property of which is to make the skin softer and smoother. Translated from French, emollients (molle – soft) literally mean “softeners”. Due to their pronounced smoothing, moisturizing and regenerating properties, they are widely used in cosmetics for dry and atopic-prone skin of children and adults. Cosmetics based on them are traditionally called emollients.

How do emollients work?

The effectiveness of such products is primarily determined by the active ingredients that form the basis of their formulas. Their key action is the restoration of the hydro-lipid barrier of the skin, strengthening the natural barrier function of the skin. So, emollients:

• Protect against dehydration – reduce transepidermal water loss (evaporation of moisture from the skin surface);
• Protect the skin from adverse factors (dry and cold air, hard water, household chemicals);
• Instantly soften and moisturize the skin, help reduce peeling, eliminate discomfort: a feeling of tightness, burning, itching.

Interestingly, long before the advent of cosmetics, the peoples of the north used natural animal fat as emollients. They smeared their face and hands with it to protect the skin from the negative influence of external factors: frost, sudden changes in temperature, strong wind. Southerners, in turn, used vegetable oils (eg, olive oil, coconut oil) to protect their skin from the sun’s rays that cause dehydration and dryness.

How to detect emollients in cosmetics?

Emollients can be found in all cosmetic products, both in cleansing and care products. Especially many different emollients are included in the formulas of products intended for dry, atopic-prone skin of infants, children and adults. The more variety in the product and the higher the concentration of emollients, the more pronounced the effect of its use.

In the composition of cosmetic emollients are used:

• Humectants are direct humectants, e.g. glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea. These substances are able to attract and retain water molecules, increasing the level of skin hydration.
• Occlusants are substances that create a water-repellent barrier on the surface of the skin, they delay the evaporation of water, restore the damaged skin barrier and protect it from aggressive factors. These include vaseline, lanolin, mineral oil, vegetable waxes and its esters, absolutely safe for the skin of adults and children, silicones (dimethicone and cyclomethicone)
• Emollients are components of cosmetic products that help retain moisture in the skin and restore lipid balance. The most common vegetable oils (shea butter, canola oil, almond, coconut, castor, avocado oil and others); emollients synthesized from vegetable raw materials – squalene, triglycerides, ceramides, etc.; fatty alcohols – replenish the lipid deficiency in the skin, contribute to moisturizing, nourishing, improving the smoothness and elasticity of the skin.

Who needs cosmetics with emollients?

Since the main properties of emollients are softening, moisturizing, protecting and restoring the skin, they are primarily recommended for daily care of sensitive, dry skin. Emollients are necessary as self-care for very dry, atopic skin of infants, children and adults, for those who suffer from chronic skin diseases – atopic dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis and others. In this case, emollients help prolong the period of remission and reduce the frequency of exacerbations.

Types of cosmetics with emollients

Emollients come in a variety of textures, from light, like a milk or lotion, to more intense, like a balm. The more dry the skin is, the richer the textures of emollients should be.

Emollient combines in its formula a mixture of two phases: fats and water. Depending on which phase predominates in the composition, the products can be divided into the formulas “water-in-oil, W/O” and “oil-in-water, O/W”. The first format is suitable for intensive softening, protection and restoration, including for winter care. The second format is moisturizing products that prevent dehydration by saturating moisture and retaining it in the skin.

Exposed areas of the skin, especially in the cold season, require the use of emollients with a rich nourishing texture. For example, Revitalizing cream for very dry hand skin LIPIKAR XERAND¹ suitable for protecting and restoring damaged skin on the hands: it strengthens the hydro-lipid barrier, protects against aggressive factors, contains softening and moisturizing components.

For the care of very dry skin prone to atopy in infants, children and adults Lipid-replenishing triple action balm for the face and body of babies, children and adults LIPIKAR BAUME AP+M² with a formula based on thermal water and a set of emollients (shea butter, canola oil, glycerin) instantly softens, moisturizes, soothes, significantly reduces itching and pain. It also helps to normalize the skin microbiome, thereby prolonging the remission period for atopic-prone skin.

Dry, atopic skin is often accompanied by damage, irritation, and cracking. To restore the skin, you should use emollients with a regenerating effect – for example, Soothing multi-repair for the skin of babies, children and adults CICAPLAST BALM B5³. The tool instantly restores and protects the skin thanks to shea butter. Panthenol and madecassoside have healing and soothing properties, the zinc-copper-manganese mineral complex has an antibacterial effect. The balm quickly returns the feeling of comfort to the skin.

How to use emollients correctly?

Use emollients daily, after cleansing the skin, 1-2 times a day. If necessary, the frequency of application can be increased.

• If you or your child has atopic-prone skin, look for emollients in both cleansers and foundations. After bathing, lightly blot the skin with a towel and apply the cream on slightly damp skin – this will increase the effectiveness of the product.
• For chronic skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, emollients are recommended to be used continuously, even if you are in remission. Restoration of the hydro-lipid barrier, strengthening the barrier function of the skin helps to maintain the normal condition of the skin and prevent the exacerbation of diseases.
• Emollients are recommended to be applied to the entire surface of the skin of the face and body. If discomfort, dryness and peeling increase on the skin, preference should be given to more saturated textures – balms and creams. If irritation intensifies in certain areas of the skin, cracks appear, it is necessary to add products with a multi-restorative effect to the emollients – for example, CICAPLAST BALM B5⁴.

Remember that any cosmetic product is recommended to be used according to the instructions.

1 LIPIKAR XERAND — Lipikar Xeran  2 LIPIKAR BAUME AP + M – Lipikar balm AP + EM; 3 CICAPLAST BALM B5 – Cicaplast balm B5; 4 CICAPLAST BALM B5 – Cicaplast balm B5;