Dry skin is genetic. The skin cannot retain the water that is inside its structure, and the water evaporates excessively. To be able to restore the fundamental barrier function that the skin plays, it is a little more technical than the simple oil used on the surface in the past. Ideally, the moisturizer should have components that retain water in the tissues, by a “sponge” effect: these components are naturally present in the skin (and in insufficient quantity in people with dry skin), and are called NMFs (Natural Moisturizing Factors). Then, a lipid barrier must be reestablished to limit evaporation. Several fatty substances, waxes or ceramides can be used, depending on their proximity to the natural lipids of the skin, their spreading capacity, the fact that they do not leave a greasy effect after application, etc. In addition to these fundamental components, it is possible to add additional compounds which may be useful depending on the case: calming agents, exfoliating agents, etc.

Finally, it is also important to pay attention to the products you use for your toilet: in fact, cosmetics that are too “degreasing” such as classic soaps will deteriorate the natural lipid layer of the skin: you must use less detergent products. : syndets (soap-free soaps), surgras soaps, washing oils, washing gels suitable for dry skin. 

There are many brands that offer quality products.

The selection criteria are numerous: first of all, you must choose a galenic (that is to say the “consistency” of the cream), which pleases you: that the cream is easy to spread (i.e. that is to say that it “slides” easily on the skin during application), that it penetrates quickly into the skin, that it does not leave a sticky impression after application (if it is this could be because the cream is too rich for the needs of your skin type, or because its composition does not suit you), that it does not leave the skin too shiny… These qualities are important if the ‘we want the goal to be achieved: indeed, it is a gesture to be repeated every day, so if it is unpleasant, it will not be done. Then, after a few days of application, your skin must regain a supple and smooth surface. If scales or scales (small dandruff of dry skin) persist, it remains rough to the touch, or your skin is already dry in the evening, after you applied the cream in the morning, you have chosen a cream that is not sufficiently moisturizing.

Then, ideally, it should be fragrance free if you or your skin is prone to allergies. In addition, the components posing a real problem must be avoided in their composition. Many ingredients are incriminated, sometimes with reason, sometimes wrongly.

Urea is one of the molecules naturally present in the skin to retain water. Its chemical composition allows it to aggregate several water molecules around it: it is a real “water trap”. It has been used for a very long time in the compositions of moisturizers for this reason. In addition, from a concentration greater than 10%, it also has a second property, very interesting for treating dry skin: it is keratolytic, that is to say it allows the skin to be gently exfoliated. dry and dead skin that remain on the surface on parched skin: thanks to this function, after a few days of use, it helps to restore the skin’s supple appearance, and to restore its softness to the touch. It is in particular very useful for eliminating these aspects of skin in “scales” which are often refractory to the application of a “simple” emollient cream. And even more for the extreme dryness of certain locations, where the skin is thickened, such as the elbows, heels, knees… For these locations, concentrations of 30 or 50% urea are even used. 

It is often thought that it would be enough to drink more for the skin to be better hydrated. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work that way. Indeed, in dry skin, there is not a deficit of water, but a deficit in the composition of the skin, which is of genetic origin (this is why when we tend to have dry skin, it is for life), and which makes that the skin is unable to retain this water inside the epidermis and the dermis. It therefore evaporates continuously. To rehydrate it, 2 things are needed:

• on the one hand to provide NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factors), which are molecules that retain water in the epidermis
• on the other hand lipids, which will form a film preventing excessive evaporation of the water contained inside the skin.
• and above all, you have to permanently change your morning routine: I often explain to my patients that moisturizing the skin is like washing teeth: it is every day, and this should not encourage discouragement! It is a habit to be taken as early as possible in life.

It all depends on the origin of the itching: either it is a skin disease that requires specific treatment, or the itching is created only by dry skin. This drought is indeed a very classic cause, although most people ignore it. Dehydrated skin does not only cause aesthetic drawbacks: the small cracks, the micro cracks that dryness generates (a bit like the soil in a desert), interrupt the barrier effect of the skin vis-à-vis many people. organisms: bacteria in particular, which will be able to get inside the skin. Local immunity will be stimulated by these small attacks, and trigger many reactions, and stimulation of small nerve endings located in the skin, which will transmit sensations of tightness, tingling, discomfort, and possibly itching.

With this in mind, the simple application of a moisturizer for several days, by allowing the skin barrier to be reconstituted, will improve most of the symptoms of itching. Then, some moisturizers contain, in addition to moisturizing agents, calming agents that can help calm the itching of the most irritated skin, such as that presented by people with allergic eczema (called “atopic”).

In a term newborn baby, it takes about 2 weeks for the skin to develop similar characteristics to adult skin. During the first 2 weeks of life, the baby’s skin, perhaps due to interactions with the amniotic fluid, is particularly dry, and its barrier function is impaired. This very often results in significant desquamation (peeling skin). This phenomenon is even more pronounced in premature babies. They must therefore be washed with syndets (soaps without soaps), cleaning oils, or superfatted soaps, to avoid accentuating dehydration. It is then necessary to rehydrate their skin with emollient creams the use of which is designed or adapted to the skin of infants, because certain compounds of moisturizers, very useful for the hydration of the skin of adults, are not adapted to the smoothness of the skin. the skin of newborns. This is generally indicated on the packaging of the creams to which it is necessary to refer.

Finally, new data which has just been published a few years ago shows that regular hydration of the skin of infants could prevent the occurrence of atopic (allergic) eczema in a significant number of “at risk” infants. (atopic parents, having eczema…).

Dry skin does not give “pimples”: it gives a whiter appearance, rough to the touch, cracks, even in the most important cases, scales or cracks. If there are added pimples, beware of an added dermatosis (skin disease) and consult a dermatologist. Indeed, many general public moisturizers, and even many “organic” creams, contain allergenic compounds which can give contact eczemas which result in an irregular and bumpy appearance of the skin. In these cases, the doctor or the dermatologist will be able, according to the cases, to prescribe for a few days medicated creams adapted to the cure of these buttons.