Do-it-yourself siding installation

If you want to quickly, beautifully and inexpensively finish the facade of the house, most likely you will come to the decision to use siding. These are far from those frankly plastic thin boards with an unpleasant sheen. Modern siding imitates different textures of traditional finishing materials: stone, brick, wood. All surfaces are quite reliable look. If a torn stone, then the color and surface are very similar. In brick-like panels there are even color irregularities natural for this material, cracks and chips are pressed through and drawn. The texture of the wood is also quite accurately conveyed. Not in all materials, but in many. It is produced today using at least five different materials and many technologies. Another important advantage of this material is that do-it-yourself siding installation is not a super-difficult task, accessible to anyone who is able to hold a hammer.

Types of siding for house cladding

Let’s start with the fact that it is produced from different materials: based on polymers, wood, metal and their combinations. Here are the main types that are used for exterior cladding of houses:

• Polymeric:
  • vinyl;
  • acrylic;
• Metal siding:
  • aluminum;
  • galvanized iron;
• fiber cement;
• WPC is a wood-polymer composite.

Polymeric

The first polymer siding we had was vinyl siding – made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Today it also exists and has the lowest prices, and outwardly it already differs significantly from the first samples. It has become much more attractive, there is not only smooth – with an imitation of the surface of wood – it is also called “log siding”. This is if it is semicircular in cross section. There is one that repeats the profile of the timber. So you can sheathe the house with timber siding. Some of the profiles and colors can be seen in the photo gallery.

The second polymer siding is acrylic. It costs about 50% more than vinyl, but it is justified: it has better characteristics, many people like it more externally. What are its advantages? It is more plastic, due to which it can withstand heavy loads, it cracks less in the cold (vinyl becomes brittle at sub-zero temperatures). The operating temperature range of acrylic is from -50°C to +50°C, acrylic can be heated to +85°C without loss of operational properties. And one more thing: acrylic burns out less, although it all depends on the quality of the pigment. All these features are reflected in the warranty period: manufacturers give a guarantee of 25 years for imported vinyl siding (ours is 5-7), for acrylic – 50 years (ours is about 10). Outwardly, acrylic is almost no different from vinyl, so there is no point in publishing similar drawings.

This was all about traditional siding, which is produced in the form of long strips (the thickness of the polymer wall, by the way, is from 0,8 to 1,2 mm). But there is also a basement option, which looks like sheets with jagged edges (for better joining). It is also called facade panels. It very reliably imitates masonry or brickwork, as well as some types of wood coatings – wood chips, for example. See some samples of basement siding in the photo gallery.

This type of siding is more expensive, but stronger – the wall thickness is 2-3 mm, depending on the manufacturer. Some reinforce the slabs to make them more rigid: so that the finish is more durable. A guarantee is given from 25 to 50 years, the temperature range depends on the material, because these facade plates are also made of vinyl or acrylic. In any case, they add more titanium, which makes it more ductile, and therefore does not break even in cold weather. It is titanium that largely affects the price: the more it is, the more durable the polymer becomes.

When finishing, it is important to remember that polymers have different sizes at different temperatures. Therefore, when installing the sadding, it is imperative to leave gaps that compensate for these changes.

You can read about the installation of basement siding in the article “Facing the basement of a house with your own hands”.

Metallosiding

This type of finishing material is made of thin metal – galvanized steel or thin aluminum. Aluminum is more durable, but also much more expensive. In the production of metal siding, a whole “pie” of protective and finishing layers is rolled onto a sheet of steel with a thickness of 0,4-0,5 mm to protect against rust, the main of which is zinc. The latter is paint or polymer coating. Polymer-coated metal siding is more expensive, but it also has a longer service life and less fading.

It is clear that metal is more durable than plastic, but only if the protective coating is not broken. Therefore, when cutting metal-based siding, you cannot use a grinder: the cut area is very hot, protective films are burned out. Subsequently, this is where corrosion begins. For the same reason, during installation, it is mounted on galvanized self-tapping screws: they are guaranteed not to scratch the coating.

Of the features – metal siding has a significant weight, therefore, when calculating the foundation, it must be taken into account. If you wanted to sheathe an old house with metal siding, this is only possible if the foundation has a margin of safety. If not, you will need to strengthen it. Another important nuance: since metal conducts heat well, the house needs to be well insulated (installed only with insulation).

Fibro-cement siding

This finishing material is made from a mixture of sand and cement, to which fiber is added for reinforcement. From this composition, siding or slabs are formed. The technology was invented in Japan, because this siding is also called “Japanese”.

The advantages of this material include its incombustibility or low flammability if the front side is painted. This material does not react to temperature changes, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation (the material itself, not the coating), does not change its properties when it freezes. But since it consists of cement, it absorbs water, and they also have a solid weight. Therefore, if you are going to sheathe the house from the outside with fiber cement siding, its weight must also be taken into account when calculating the foundation. When developing a wall pie, care must be taken to ensure that the facade is ventilated: there must be an air gap between the cladding and the wall of the house.

Another feature of this material is that the colors that you see in the photo above are the result of staining. It is applied after the plates are molded. The paint penetrates quite deeply and manufacturers guarantee paint durability for 10 years. But then it will have to be updated: take a brush or roller and paint.

WPC siding – wood-polymer composite

Woodgrain siding or WPC is made from wood flour mixed with a polymer. Not only does it look like wood, but it also smells the same. Very similar and tactile sensations. Unlike fiber cement, WPC is colored to the full depth: the pigment is added from the mass before molding. There is thermal expansion – about 3 mm per meter, the color of the racks, the strength is high – decking is made from the same material – a terrace board, so people have been trampling on it for years. She, by the way, can also sheathe the house.

Among the shortcomings of this material: a rather high price – from 850 to 2000 rubles per square meter, not a very large palette of colors, lack of additional elements and proven installation technology. The material is new, all the flaws from this. But they are forgotten when the material is seen live: it looks very attractive and is very similar to wood. In the photo gallery there are photos from cottages and houses under construction, not advertising ones. So you can appreciate the real view.

Since the material is new, there are few reviews, but those that are are positive. For example, this: “Two years have passed, the color is holding, no cracks, no deformation.” Region – Moscow and Samara.

What else you can sheathe the house outside, read here.

How to choose siding for your home

After you have decided on the type of siding that you will use to sheathe the house, you must not make a mistake with the manufacturer. You will need to carefully inspect the products and check the following points:

• Color uniformity. If the color is smooth, there should be no changes and extraneous inclusions either on the back or on the front.
• Uniform wall thickness. Examine several planks in profile. The thickness of the partitions must be the same. Sagging or pitting, even on the inside, is a sign of poor quality.
• Check the mounting holes. They should have smooth edges, without burrs.
• Smooth longitudinal edges of the locks, no deformation in any plane.

If everything is fine, you can buy.

DIY installation instructions

Despite the fact that siding is made from different materials, the principle of its installation is the same: on a flat surface. In some cases, it can be a flat wall, but mostly on a crate.

Procedure

Do-it-yourself siding installation begins with checking the condition of the walls. If the house is new, no special action is required. If old, everything that can subsequently collapse is removed: poorly adhering tiles, pieces of plaster. If there is an old finish that can be easily removed, it is advisable to dismantle it. Decorative elements are also removed – lamps, window and door cladding, etc., roof overhangs are disassembled. They will then be installed in place after the finishing work is completed.

After that, the installation of the siding is independently carried out in the following sequence:

• A horizontal line is reflected along the perimeter of the building, the lowest point is located. The starting profile is stuffed no lower than this point. Everything below will be covered with a cut board.
• The crate is installed. Its step depends on the type of material chosen, but most often it is 40 cm (for metal siding it can be up to 1 m). The crate is set to the level, correcting the unevenness of the wall. If necessary, enclose pieces of wood or pieces of plywood of the desired thickness.
  

• The starting profile is mounted on the marked mark.
• Corners are installed. Appropriate extensions are placed around windows and doors.
• Row after row, siding is installed and secured, starting from the bottom, moving up.
• A J-profile is installed at the top, which fixes the bar from above. If the whole bar is not included, it is cut from below.

Actually, all the siding of the house is completed. Some points require clarification. About them – below with photo and video explanations and instructions.

Rims

For any type, you can use wooden bars 50 * 50 mm or a galvanized profile for outdoor use. For heavier materials such as fiber cement or WPC, façade system fasteners can be used. It is, of course, expensive, but it is convenient to work with it.

If the crate for siding is made of wood, the bars must be treated with bioprotective impregnations: so that fungi and mold do not multiply. The walls of a wooden or frame house are also treated with a similar composition before finishing.

The step of the crate is indicated by the manufacturer, but often it is also determined by the geometry of the house: if there are a lot of broken lines, the crate will have to be done more often. It must be installed:

• at the top and bottom of the wall;
• around window and door openings;
• at the corners;
• on the plane with the required step.
  

According to the installation method, vinyl, acrylic and metal siding can be horizontal and vertical. Depending on the direction of laying the finishing board, the crate is stuffed in a perpendicular direction: if the boards are nailed vertically, the crate is horizontal and vice versa.

As already mentioned, as a standard for a wooden crate for siding, a bar of 50 * 50 mm is taken. But if installation with a heater is supposed, the thickness of the bar should be greater: it depends on the required thickness of the heater. In this case, the bar should be 2-3 cm wider than the insulation. This is a ventilation gap that will help maintain normal humidity in the house and in all layers of the finish.

A crate made of wood for siding does not raise questions: almost everyone knows how to work with a tree, but not everyone understands how to make a crate from profiles. Clarifications and tips on how to fix the profile of the crate to the wall – in the video.

Do-it-yourself siding installation with insulation

Traditional insulation for siding is used: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam (extruded or not), mineral wool. For wooden houses, mineral wool is most often used: at a low cost, it has good characteristics and does not prevent the removal of excess moisture from the house, and this is important if a wooden house is going to be sheathed. When siding a brick house or a house made of foam blocks, building blocks, you can also use foam plastic: the walls are not very “breathable” and the same insulation paired with them will work fine.

It is undesirable to upholster a wooden house without crates with siding. Even if the walls are flat. Condensation will form on the inner surface of the skin: the steam passes through the wooden wall, is deposited on a cooler surface. Humidity in this interval will be high: there is no ventilation gap, evaporation is poor. Conditions are created for the rapid destruction of wood.

Therefore, in any case, a crate is stuffed on a wooden surface. If the skin is with insulation, it is installed and fixed between its slats. They are laid very tightly, with effort, so that there are no cracks near the slats of the crate – cold bridges. If there is more than one layer, it is laid so that the seams of the lower row are closed by the upper one, it is possible – in different directions (see the figure).

Windproof vapor permeable membrane on top. Pay attention to this material: it depends on how long your insulation will “live”. Not a plastic film, but a membrane that does not lock water vapor inside (water vapor can escape from the insulation), while protecting it from the penetration of moisture from the outside (precipitation and condensate cannot get inside). On top of it is a counter-lattice, which will create a ventilated gap. Boards or panels are already attached to the counter-crate.

In this case, as you understand, a counter-lattice should be located perpendicular to the direction of laying the siding. Therefore, the first one is stuffed in the same direction as the sadding.

How to overlay a house with bricks is described here.

How siding is attached

The main problems with the exterior decoration of the house with siding are associated with a violation of the installation technology. Therefore, this must be taken very carefully and strictly follow the recommendations. Manufacturers may have a different set of additional elements – profiles for joining planks and openings – but the installation is the same:

1. Fix the starting profile exactly horizontally.
2. To securely fasten the siding, you need to insert it into the lock along the entire length. To do this, it can be lightly tapped from above (only slightly).
3. After installing the strip, do not pull it up, but mount it in a “natural” state.
4. When installing siding with your own hands, it is important to properly fasten the strips: in the middle of the mounting hole. They are specially made oblong so that when the dimensions of the planks change due to thermal expansion, they can move. It is also important to slightly under-tighten the screw, leaving at least 1 mm of the leg free – so that the panel can move.
5. When docking with additional elements (corners, window and door edging), it is necessary to cut the boards so that they do not reach the stop 5-6 mm. This is also an allowance for expansion.
   

There are requirements for the type and size of fasteners:

• Use of self-tapping screws or nails is allowed.
• The head of the fastener must have a size of at least 8 mm (diameter 4 mm). For self-tapping screws, it should be rounded, not flat.
• The thickness of the rod is 3 mm.

When installing metal cladding, galvanized fasteners are recommended for use: it will not damage the zinc protective coating. For other types of self-tapping screws, it is better to use white ones, not black ones: they can withstand heavy loads (for black ones, the hat often breaks when twisting).

This is true for this material of any kind: it is necessary to properly fix both vinyl, and acrylic, and metal. What violations lead to during installation, see the video.

Video installation instructions

The technology of sheathing with vinyl or acrylic siding is described in detail in this video. It is about how and in what order to install profiles, how to mount and join external and internal corners. The process of facing the window siding is described in detail.

Installation of facade siding is not much different. Unless the fact that the crate is required “in a cage.” Otherwise, everything is the same: we install the screws in the center of the mounting holes, do not tighten them.

There are some small peculiarities in the joining of elements. On the back of the panels there are stops that prevent the panel from moving further. When installing siding under a stone or brick, you must not miss this moment: the stops can break with strong pressure. It is not bad told about the features of installation in the advertising and training video of the German manufacturer Docke (Docke or Deck).

For information on how a large wooden house was sheathed with vinyl siding under a stone, see the following video. This is no longer a commercial, but an experience: laying siding with your own hands was done for the first time. What happened and what feelings – look.