Do-it-yourself self-leveling (filling, polymer) floor: cement, gypsum, polymer, volumetric (3D)

Traditionally, the floor is leveled with a cement-sand screed, but it is difficult to work with it, and getting a perfectly flat surface is even more difficult. To facilitate the work, you can use additive additives that increase the plasticity of the solution, allowing you to achieve a smooth surface. This technology is called liquid, flooded or self-leveling floors, since the solution turns out to be really liquid and it is poured. You can select additives yourself, but it is long and difficult. After all, not only fluidity is important, but also the ability to level out, the speed of hardening and other characteristics. Therefore, a more common way is to use ready-made mixtures, which are selected according to their characteristics for specific tasks. With such mixtures, you can make a self-leveling floor with your own hands. Not to say that it is easy to achieve an excellent result with self-production, but it is possible.

One of the varieties of filler floors are polymeric, and they can be monophonic, or they can have an image in their composition. These are the so-called 3D floors. All of them are applied using the same technology, with their own characteristics. One caveat – polymer floors (and three de) require an ideal foundation. On a concrete slab, it can be made using bulk technology. That’s why it’s a must to study it.

Technology and sequence of actions

If you start looking for which mixture to buy in order to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, you will be confused: there are different compositions with different characteristics. All of them are used in this technology, but for different needs and situations. There are two big groups:

• Rovers. The characteristics usually indicate the thickness of the layer from 10 to 100 or 150 mm. These compositions are for rough preliminary leveling of significant differences in the screed. Apply to prepared and primed substrate. Even if the word “self-levelling” is used, they must be “dispersed” with a spatula, preferably with a notched one. This must be done carefully and quickly, but make sure that the composition does not fall on the walls (they are often already finished, or at least aligned). To make it more convenient to disperse, a long handle is attached to the spatula – it turns out something like a rake. Then the layer is finally leveled with a two-meter rule along the beacons. If you wait until the leveler spreads itself, you will be left with bumps and pits.
  

• Finish or thin. In the characteristics of these compositions, there is usually a layer from 2 to 10 mm. It is applied either on a hardened leveling layer (primed) or on a sufficiently even base (an old concrete floor, for example). In this group there are self-leveling compounds. Note! There are self-levelling, but not all have such characteristics. These are those that are simply poured out, and then rolled with a special toothed roller and that’s it. Due to special additives, the mixture is leveled by itself, and the roller is necessary to remove air bubbles. The rest of the finishing compositions also need to be dispersed with a spatula, although they themselves are leveled.
  

Not so much? But that’s not all. In each of these groups there are quick-hardening compounds. On the one hand, this is good: repairs will take less time. On the other hand, with a lack of experience (and where can he get it if you do the filler floor with your own hands for the first time), the speed of hardening can turn into the fact that while you stir all the lumps when mixing the composition, it will begin to seize and level already once. There were cases. For example, they were going to fill a room with 16 squares, kneaded two bags of quick-hardening compound in a large tub. The time from hitting the water to setting is 25 minutes. All lumps were stirred for 15 minutes. The solution was poured onto the floor, and it almost does not flow. Tried to smooth it out, almost impossible. Then they quickly loaded everything into bags and carried it to the trash heap. The conclusion is simple: to avoid such a situation, do not take quick-hardening compounds for the first experience.

One more nuance. It is necessary to select the compositions in accordance with the operating conditions: for indoor or outdoor work, if the room is periodically left without heating, frost resistance is needed. There are also special compositions for laying a warm floor – in the list of characteristics there should be a mark on compatibility with heating.

Now about what bulk floors are made of. The composition can be based on cement or gypsum, in rare cases both components are used, but there are special additives that neutralize the discrepancy (Prospectors brand). When buying a leveling agent and finishing compound from different companies, pay attention to what they are based on. The fact is that gypsum and cement conflict with each other. They cannot be stacked one on top of the other. If the leveler is based on cement, then the finishing composition must also be made of cement. The same rule applies to plaster.

What you need to know

So, the main points and features of the technology “self-leveling floors”:

• They are only compatible with stable bases. When cracks appear at the base, they also crack. For this reason, wooden floors are a very poor foundation.
• Requires good adhesion to the base. “Floating” self-leveling floors can not be. Therefore, the surface is preliminarily carefully cleaned, dust-free and then primed.
• The base should not absorb water well, which again is achieved by a primer. Loose porous materials are primed in several layers, carefully processing the corners. In places of insufficient processing, water quickly leaves the composition, which causes irregularities, and more often humps. Then knocking them down is very long and problematic (with a grinder with a diamond disc and / or a chisel and a chisel).
• A damper tape is laid along the perimeter of the walls. It will allow you to leave a small gap that will compensate for the thermal expansion of the composition.
• If the floor is relatively flat – the height difference does not exceed 10 mm – you can immediately pour the finishing composition onto the prepared surface.
• With a height difference of more than 10 mm, levelers are used first. After they harden (indicated in the characteristics), they are again covered with soil and, if necessary, another layer of the finishing self-leveling floor is applied.
• Since the liquid floor has to be leveled or “dispersed”, you need to walk on the flooded surface. To avoid leaving marks, shoes are put on a special sole on thin rods, which are called paint shoes. To save on shoes, you can buy lawn aeration shoes. They are very similar but cost less.
  

If the floor is to be leveled for tile laying, often laying leveler is sufficient. Small differences up to 4-5 mm are leveled with a layer of tile adhesive. In general, look at the price: what will work out cheaper: pour a layer of liquid floor or increased consumption of tile adhesive. Both options are equivalent in terms of performance, so choose the less expensive one. Under all other coatings – laminate, parquet board, package, linoleum, cork, carpet, etc. – a difference of no more than 2 mm per 1 meter is required. If there is no such result after the leveler, you will have to fill in another finishing layer.

What do you need

In addition to the bags with the mixture, you will need some tools and fixtures:

• Mixing capacity – at least 20 liters.
• Water – according to the instructions, but usually you can use tap water.
• Drill with a power of at least 800 W, kneading nozzle.
• Rule length 2 m.
• Wide spatula with teeth.
• Plastic roller with needles.
• Primer.
• Kraskostupy.
  

Work procedure: do-it-yourself self-leveling floor

The first stage is the preparation of the foundation. Everything that can be torn off, beaten off, cleaned off is removed. The cracks are expanded if they are too large, sealed with tile adhesive or a dry mix for pouring the floor, diluted with PVA glue. Small ones – up to 3 mm deep – are left without sealing, they just clean it well. After finishing the cleaning, everything is well cleaned, dust is collected with a vacuum cleaner.

The second stage is the primer. It is better to take a primer from the same company as the liquid floor – a guarantee of compatibility. If you bought another one, check them for compatibility: look in the instructions for what compositions it can be used with – based on gypsum or cement. It is necessary to primer carefully, completely impregnating the entire base. It is faster to work with a roller on a long stick, but you can also use a brush and even a wide spatula. For loose materials, a single priming is not enough, and after the first has dried, a second, or maybe a third, is applied.

Stage three – installation of beacons. Lighthouses are exposed in different ways. The first method: how to use metal profiles with a conventional screed. They can be left in the floor, or after the solution has set (primary curing), they can be removed and the holes filled with the same mixture. second method: with a certain step, screw the screws into the floor, exposing the hats to the level. This method is acceptable if the solution is leveled with a rule. Then, when pouring, focus on the hats. The third way: make “rails” from a thick, quick-setting mortar for pouring the floor. Basically, a “P”-shaped profile for drywall is used for this, which is lubricated from the inside with grease. It, with its back up, is placed on self-tapping screws set to the level. Put a solution inside with a spatula, filling to the very top. The whole trick here is to leave no voids. There is a modification of this method: along the laid out screws, lay out a roller from the solution, into which to press the lubricated profile. The squeezed out and excess solution is collected, if you do not have time to grab it, you can try to use it again. Method four: use a laser plane builder.

Stage four – filling. You have to work quickly: after 40 minutes, most of the compounds lose their elasticity. Therefore, it is more convenient to work with at least one assistant, two containers for pouring. Beforehand, it is better to measure the right amount of water (pour into some containers, the number of which is equal to the number of batches), open the bags with the mixture, put everything in rows. Install a threshold near the door – so that the liquid floor does not spill out and you can make it even.

One person closes the composition – pours water, pours out the composition and stirs with an electric drill with a stirrer, the second – pours and levels. The one who levels must put on shoes a special sole on thin metal rods. If you do not want to buy it, you can make it yourself (an example is in the photo).

Pour the composition on the floor with a “snake”. Although it spreads, it is not so good that nothing needs to be done at all. You will have to level, especially if you are laying the starting, rough leveler, with a decent layer. Depending on the chosen method of installing beacons, you “drive” the mortar with either a long mounting rail – a rule, or a wide spatula with teeth (if you use a plane builder, it is more convenient for them to work). In order not to crawl with him on his knees, he can be attached to a long handle. Some prefer to disperse the solution with a toothed roller. With a sufficient layer thickness (from 5 mm), it does a good job, for thinner ones you need either a spatula or a rule. You have to work quickly – you need to have time to fill the entire room even before the moment of final hardening, besides, the next portion of the solution is being prepared.

As soon as the next portion of the solution is ready, it is poured out, continuing to level already on a new area, mixing two zones along the edges. This fills the entire surface.

Stage five – waiting and checking the result. After pouring, close the doors – so that there are no drafts – and wait for the required time. It is very different. Mixtures on cement seize longer, on gypsum – faster, but you can usually walk on the surface in 12-24 hours.

When the specified period has passed, take a two-meter rule and check the result. When using a rough leveler, the difference can be 2-5 mm, and can be measured in centimeters. It very much depends on skill. If you did the self-leveling floor with your own hands for the first time, and the differences you got were less than 10 mm, you can congratulate you on your success. This is a good result, and the existing irregularities will be leveled by the finishing leveler. It has a finer grain, better distributed.

If you want good results, find a good self-levelling compound. It, of course, will need to be distributed over the surface, but it will level itself. The only disadvantage of this type of compositions is their price. It is generally noted that the less experience, the more expensive the composition must be used to ensure a smooth floor.

Not bad, all the nuances and features of the device for filling floors are painted in the video. There is also a demonstration of how to level the mixture and voiced several brands that are recommended to use.

Manufacturers of compounds for self-leveling floors

There are many companies on the market, both foreign and domestic. Some compositions are praised by everyone, some have conflicting reviews. Here you need to understand that those who often encounter this work can, using a composition that is not very good in terms of characteristics, get an excellent result. It is more difficult for beginners: they do not know how it should be, therefore they cannot correct it in time if something goes wrong. Therefore, it is unlikely that it will be possible to save money: in order to get a good result, you will have to buy a self-leveling floor composition with very good characteristics and reviews. These are expensive brands.

Here is a list of manufacturers and compositions, with a brief description:

• Bolars is inexpensive, but difficult to work with.
• ‘Prospectors – reviews are different.
• Pyramid – little experience.
• CERESIT CN78 – easy to work, the surface is smooth, but expensive.
• IVSIL TIE-ROD-II is a gypsum-based self-levelling compound, other compounds level out a little worse.
• BROZEX NP-42 – the result is not bad, the spreading is normal.
• Horizon Universal – difficult to work.
• Vetonit Vaateri Plus is a self-spreader with good characteristics, it is easy to work, the surface is even, it is expensive.
• Forbo 976 is a self-levelling compound with good performance.
• It will base T-45 – it spreads well and levels out, it is not suitable for a thick layer (more than 10 mm).
• Plitonite (PLITONIT) – the composition for a thin layer has very good reviews.
• Kreps-RV and SL – according to reviews – normal characteristics at an affordable price.

These, of course, are not all manufacturers, but those with whom you can make a floor, and do not suffer (according to the reviews of those who worked with them) …

Polymeric and 3D self-leveling floors

The technology for installing polymer floors is similar to the installation of self-leveling ones. There is also a liquid, relatively fluid composition that needs to be spread over the surface. difference in materials. Mostly polymers. They differ in the type of binder component:

• polyurethane;
• epoxy;
• methyl methacrylate.

According to the thickness of the coating, they can be quite thin – this is a dust-removing coating and painting, or they can have a thickness of 1,5-4,5 mm, sometimes more. The compositions are mainly two-component – before application, they are mixed in a strictly measured proportion. Then, like self-leveling floors based on cement or gypsum, they are poured onto a flat primed surface (the primer is their own) and leveled.

Polymer floors can have a glossy or matte surface, they can be rough. In apartments and private houses (for bathrooms, kitchens, corridors) they mainly use a gloss or matte surface, in pools or on open terraces – a rough one, so that it is non-slip even when wet.

Volumetric floors with a pattern, which are also called 3D (three de) floors, are a special case of a polymer floor. The drawing is applied to a banner or special fabric. The main thing is a careful study of the drawing and high quality printing. This pattern is glued to the prepared base, then filled with a layer of transparent polymer on top. After drying, another layer of varnish is applied, resistant to abrasion. The result is those very beautiful pictures on the floor that many people like so much.

The technology of the self-leveling floor device with a pattern

Step by step it looks like this:

1. Align the base. At this stage, a perfectly flat floor surface is achieved. Concrete floors can be leveled using the self-leveling floor technology described above. Polymer floors can also be made on a wooden base. The main task is to make them stable and perfectly smooth. To do this, you can process the grinding disc. The quality and effect of the floor is 90% dependent on the preparation of the base. That is why you should achieve the best results here.
2. We are waiting for the floor to be dry. It is very important. The maximum humidity of the cement base is 4%, wood – 8%.
3. On a dry, leveled and cleaned floor, apply a polymer primer. For this technology, it is better to distribute it with a wide spatula: this way, the existing irregularities are evened out even more.
4. We pour a polymer layer. Color – usually light gray or another – depending on the main background of the pattern: the base will look through the fabric. Use any of the polymers. They say the best are polyurethane, but they are very expensive. Epoxy – cheaper, but the transparent layer becomes yellowish after a while.
   

5. We find and order a print on a two-layer banner fabric. The first layer is paper, the top layer is mesh. There is such a mesh with a width of 1,37-1,67 m, a length of 35 meters per roll, the price is 8-10 euros per square meter. Therefore, wider drawings are made up of several pieces. The pattern is applied to the fabric. When sticking, the paper is removed, the mesh fabric is glued to the prepared base. It is glued on a thin layer of the same composition, which will then be applied on top. The first important task of this stage is to find a drawing of the right size with the required resolution (high quality), the second is to stick the fabric without bubbles.
6. When laying the layer of paper is removed. A thin layer of clear, 1 mm or so, is applied to the dried base polymer layer, quickly rolled with a spiked roller so that there are no bubbles. A film is spread over it. The main task is to make sure that there are no air bubbles under it. To do this, it must be laid out starting from the edge, gradually gluing onto the applied layer. Since the fabric is mesh, if laid out carefully, there are no problems – the bubbles come out through the mesh holes.
7. Fill with a transparent top coat.

The entire technology of the 3D floor device is demonstrated in a video clip. After viewing, all ambiguities should go away completely.

Those who want to make a bulk self-leveling floor with their own hands (with a 3D effect) often have questions about where to buy materials. if we are talking about photo printing, then in an advertising agency that deals with banner advertising or in a printing house that has equipment for large-format printing on fabric.

If we are talking about polymer compositions, then the number of manufacturing companies is in the tens. There are both domestic and imported. They, as a rule, produce the entire line – from primers to coatings with different characteristics. There are many possibilities for tinting. Choose any from the catalog. This is if you plan to fill in a plain floor. If you decide to make a floor with a pattern, in addition to the primer, you will need one composition for the base (to match the background of the photograph), as well as a transparent one. They can also trade in all sorts of “chips” to create a shimmering, for example, floor, etc.

As mentioned, there are many manufacturers. Here are some, with a description of the materials they produce (which they sell):

• TeoChem Enterprise – manufactures polymer floors under the Elakor brand (all three types of polymers)
• Etal and Etal UV – epoxides
• Remmers Epoxy (epoxy), Remmers PUR Aqua (polyurethane)
• Cast polyurethane coating KT floor Enamel PU 01 – one-component (toxic, work in a respirator)
• Polyepoxy – epoxy self-leveling floors
• Ultraflor – polyurethanes
• Poly-Flor – all three polymers (epoxy, polyurethane, methyl methacrylate)
•  Epolast – epoxy two-component compounds
• Sikafloor-2530W – epoxy self-leveling floor

Actually, this is the whole technology. You see that it is not easy to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, but it is possible. The main task is to qualitatively prepare the bases, as well as meet the specified time before the compositions harden.

Another video clip on how to make plain polymer floors.