Do-it-yourself malfunctions and repair of Whirlpool washing machines

Today, in almost every apartment building you can find a Whirlpool brand washing machine, and more than one. Both assemblies are common with us: Slovakia and Italy. The latter are bought less often and are more expensive, but cars assembled in Slovakia can be found in all household appliance stores.

Perhaps, it was the European assembly standards that helped Whirlpool machines to establish themselves as high quality machines and enviable durability. That is why repairs are rarely required, but if breakdowns occur, you can often repair Whirlpool washing machines (Whirlpool) with your own hands.

Typical Whirlpool machine failures

If we thoroughly list all the possible breakdowns of the SMA, we will be forced to write a whole manual in 10 volumes. Therefore, we will focus only on the malfunctions typical of this brand.

We used data from reputable service centers to create valuable instructions for those who are about to do their own whirlpool washing machine repair.

Most frequent crashes:

• After washing, the water is in the tank.
• Washing modes hang up, do not start at all, or programs fail.
• All wash cycles are done in cold water.
• SMA flows in the hatch area.

Important! Serious breakdowns can be hidden behind these seemingly harmless malfunctions. They must be eliminated immediately so as not to break the CM completely.

The most vulnerable parts of Whirlpool cars

Based on the problems described above, it is possible to identify the most vulnerable spots of Whirlpool washing machines. Many modern models have a self-diagnosis system that, using a fault code, will tell you which part is out of order.

But what if the machine does not turn on at all, and there is nothing that would help you find out the cause of the breakdown? Listen to the advice of experienced repairmen, they are sure that the most vulnerable parts in the Whirlpool machine are:

1. Thermoelectric heater – heating element.
2. The engine and its moving parts.
3. Manhole cuff, branch pipes.
4. Controller (control module).

Attention! Whirlpool machines, like any other machine, suffer from blockages. Both filters and hoses are clogged. If you clean it in a timely manner (3-4 times a year), you can avoid damage to the drain and fill system.

Water does not leave the tank of the Whirlpool machine

Probably, you are familiar with the situation when you loaded the laundry into the tank, chose a convenient washing mode, went about your business to the kitchen, then came to get the laundry, and there was a disaster. The machine is buggy: it is full of water and foam, the wash has not finished, the laundry is wet.

You restart the program, but everything is in a circle – the washing program does not run because the water remains in the drum. This problem is caused by one of three factors:

• Debris has accumulated in the water drain or drain filter.
• Blockage in the drain hose or blockage in the sewer system.
• Breakdown of the electric pump drain (pump).

However, before you spend time looking for the causes of the failure, prepare your SMA for this:

1. Disconnect the power supply.
2. Manually drain the water remaining in the drum. This can be done quickly by using the emergency drain hose – this is usually located near the water drain filter.
3. Substitute a container or lay a rag on the floor – and waste water will flow out there.

Next, remove the waste water filter:

• Place a rag or container under the hatch behind which the filter is located.
• Unscrew the plug counterclockwise.
• Clean and rinse the unit under a faucet.
• Set everything in place.
• Twist the drain hose, clean and flush it, reinstall it.

It does not hurt to check the sewer for clogging.

To carry out all the steps, you do not need to know how to disassemble the Whirlpool washing machine – this is an easy job that any user can do.

If your actions did not help get rid of the problem, the drain system is clean, there is no blockage in the sewer, and the washing machine still does not drain the water from the tank, it will still have to be disassembled. The true cause of the breakdown may be hiding in the pump and drain pipe.

Important! Almost all Whirlpool models are designed in such a way that the pump and nozzle can only be reached from the bottom. You have to turn the car on its side.

How to find, check and clean the pump and nozzle:

1. Remove the detergent drawer.
2. Disconnect the machine from all systems: electricity and water supply, sewerage.
3. Turn the SMA over, laying it on the side wall.
4. Loosen the screws and remove the bottom.
5. Arm yourself with a tester and measure the resistance of the pump.
6. If you find a problem, change the pump.
7. If the pump is not to blame, then proceed further.
8. Loosen the clamps on the water drain pipe.
9. Remove the tube.
10. Clean and rinse it.
11. Install the pipe back.

This breakdown is typical for machines with any type of load. The device of the Whirlpool washing machine with vertical loading is somewhat different than that of conventional SMs, but it is necessary to solve the problem with it in the same way.

Whirlpool machine freezes, cold water when washing

Often, after starting the washer, the control panel starts to behave inappropriately: the display blinks, and all the LEDs flash with it. Also, the program you have chosen may not work.

If this is your case, then immediately turn off the SM, and wait 60 seconds. Then turn it on and, if the problem persists, you should call the wizard, as the control module is damaged, and repairing it yourself is almost impossible. You will need not only a Whirlpool washing machine control module diagram, but also experience in such repairs.

If the washing machine does not want to heat the water and does not wash clothes well, then you can determine the breakdown without the help of special devices and carry out independent repairs.

The surest reason for this behavior is a breakdown of the thermistor (temperature sensor), but the heating element could also fail. Be that as it may, it is worth checking both elements in the complex. Then proceed according to this simple scheme:

• Turn the machine so that the front wall is in front of you – this will make it easier to work.
• Unscrew the bolts and remove the back panel.
• Next, remove the bracket by unscrewing the bolts so that it does not interfere with working with the heater.
• You will not see the entire heater at once – only its shank is visible under the tank, to which four wires go, two of which are connected to the heater itself, and the rest to the temperature sensor.
• Remove all wires.
• Take a tester and measure the resistance of the temperature sensor contacts. Check the performance at room temperature, and then heating the sensor in warm water, they should differ significantly if the sensor is working.
• Next, measure the resistance on the heating element itself. Its normal performance: 20-40 ohms.

With such a problem, the breakdown is likely to be confirmed, so you will have to replace the sensor (which is easier) or the heating element.

Important! If you do not have a tester at hand, immediately remove the heating element from the tank by unscrewing the fasteners. You will quickly determine the malfunction if the heating element is covered with a thick layer of scale, or dark spots have gone over it. If the scale is just a little bit, then the heating element may not have burned out, and if the water stone is 1 cm or more thick, there is a breakdown.

With your own hands, you can easily change the heater as follows:

1. The contacts and wires have already been removed, so remove the plastic shield next.
2. Unscrew the mount – it is located in the center of the shank.
3. Gently pulling the contacts, loosening the heater in different directions, remove the heating element. The rubber gasket will interfere, so be patient – there’s nothing you can do about it.
4. Taking out the heating element, remove the gasket.

Important! Mechanics recommend that a new gasket be installed along with the new heater, since leaks due to gasket wear are detrimental to this important unit.

• In the hole where the heating element was, there is probably litter and scale, so do a general cleaning; only after that you can put the gasket.
• Install a new heating element, tighten the mount.
• Replace the plastic shield.
• Connect the contacts to the heater and the sensor.
• Restore the location of the bracket, and finally mount the panel of the machine back.

Leak in the hatch area of ​​the Whirlpool machine

When water flows from under the door of the Whirlpool washing machine in the washing or rinsing mode, it starts imperceptibly – first a couple of drops, then a thin stream, and sooner or later the flood begins at all.

You do not need a Whirlpool washing machine diagram to find the cuff that is the culprit of the breakdown. It is visible to the naked eye as well – it is a large rubber gasket in your CM. It is located around the entire inner perimeter of the hatch, and its main task is to keep water out.

The most vulnerable point of the seal is at the bottom, because dirty water often remains there. If you do not clean up periodically, the cuff may burst. It is enough to slightly touch the worn seal so that it breaks – then leakage cannot be avoided.

Important! You can not use the machine with a torn cuff – it will not be able to hold water. If a rupture is detected, the cuff should be changed IMMEDIATELY.

If you are used to doing repairs at home, then dismantle the old one and mount a new cuff.

Dismantling the old cuff:

1. Open the sunroof as wide as possible.
2. Arm yourself with a slotted screwdriver and pry up the wire tie – it is located on top of the cuff.
3. After prying the clamp, bring a screwdriver deeper under it and move it in a circle until you come across a connector with fasteners.
4. Loosen the clamp and remove it.
5. Take the seal with both hands and, pulling it towards you, remove it.

Note to users: buy cuffs from authorized dealers. The original part will fit into the groove of the hatch clearly up to a millimeter and protect the tank from leaks.

Installation of a new cuff:

1. Unpack the part and insert it into the groove.

Important! Do not use anything sharp so as not to tear the seal – do everything ONLY with your hands.

2. As soon as the elastic is in place, quickly put on the clamp and tighten it.
3. Check if the sunroof closes and opens normally.
4. Run the wash in test mode.
5. If it’s dry under the machine, congratulations, you did a great job!

If water flows in a vertical type machine, then the reason may not be in the hatch at all – it is located on top of it. You will most likely need to disassemble your Whirlpool top-loading washing machine to find out the cause of the leak.

There are a number of other reasons why the washer may leak:

• The pump is running.
• Depressurization of the tank – crack, hole, corrosion.
• Damaged drain or water intake pipes.
• Depressurization of the connection of the water inlet pipe.
• Depressurization of the pipes connecting the inlet valve and the powder cuvette.
• Seal removal.
• Blockage in the dispenser hopper.
• Deterioration of the drain pipe of the tank.

Most of these breakdowns are simple, and you can repair the leak yourself to fix the leak. The most important thing in this case is to correctly diagnose the problem. This will help you trouble codes.

The following error codes may appear on the display: F01 or FH, F02 or FA, F03 or FP, F14, FDL, FDU.

If you still have questions about repairing breakdowns of Virpul brand washing machines, read our other materials, in which we analyze in detail each individual malfunction.

In this article, we have considered only typical breakdowns that can be fixed without the help of a repairman. And if you are wondering how to change the bearing on the Whirlpool washing machine, see an additional special video: