Contents
The fireplace is usually placed in the living room. Where else to admire the fire, if not in a room for relaxing and receiving guests. It is far from possible to use it as the main source of heat with all designs, but as an additional one, in the autumn-spring period it is very comfortable. The fireplace will also help in especially severe colds, when the main heating is insufficient in terms of power. You can fold a simple fireplace with your own hands. It’s far from easy, but possible.
Although much less brick is required to build a fireplace, it is very important to correctly lay out all the elements. Due to design errors, the fireplace may work inefficiently or not work at all. In addition to the function of heating, the fireplace performs in many respects also aesthetic functions, therefore it is often chosen also in appearance, not forgetting about the technical features.
Dutch fireplaces
This heater, although it has a large-format firebox traditional for fireplaces, is essentially a stove – it has a multi-turn chimney. So this is a heavy, difficult-to-implement massive structure. It has only two key differences from the furnace – the size of the furnace portal and the absence of a blower. If you know how to fold a Dutch stove, with a few simple adjustments, you can turn it into a fireplace. Moreover, if there is an old Dutch woman in the house, even requiring major repairs, she easily turns into a fireplace. It is only required to disassemble the front part of the furnace, insert a ready-made metal furnace of a suitable size, connect it to the smoke circuits and decorate.
This is the type of units with an open firebox that can be used as the main heating device. The Dutch have long been forced to save on fuel and do not allow themselves to release heat into the chimney.
Open or Alpine (Swiss)
This type of fireplace has become popular recently. In fact, this is also not a fireplace in its purest form, but for a different reason. It is, rather, just an open or semi-closed hearth, over which a cap is made, turning into a chimney.
It fits perfectly into chalet-style interiors, because it was from there that he came to us. The device, in general, is simple, but not very efficient in terms of heating. But very decorative.
The option that you see in the photo above is made in the rustic style – from natural processed stone. Such work costs a lot of money: you have to adjust, trim hard rocks of stone, which requires a high level of skill.
Classic English
A traditional looking fireplace just the way we imagine it. An open wide portal of a furnace in which firewood burns. Moreover, its decoration can be any, both artsy for the corresponding interiors, and restrained, which fits into high-tech and minimalism.
Despite the fact that it does not seem to take up much space, it will take about 800 bricks to make a classic fireplace, along with an average length of the chimney. The total mass of such a structure is in the region of a ton. The smallest classical fireplace requires a solid separate foundation, such as that arranged for a stove – to the same depth as the foundation of the house, and in size it should be at least 15 cm larger on all sides. They bring it to one level with the floor.
Device and how it works
If you look at the photo, it seems that there is nothing complicated: a box with a pipe and that’s it. But what looks simple is actually far from simple. Firstly, there is a smoke tooth in the upper part of the firebox. And not just some kind of ledge, but with a reflective surface. It narrows the cross section of the pipe, twisting the flame inside the firebox.
Secondly, the hearth part of the fireplace insert does not have a blower, and the front wall is made with an inward slope. These two components make it possible to ensure that the flame spins in the furnace for a long time, giving off heat as much as possible.
Thirdly, there is a damper in the pipe, which effectively, and, very importantly, safely regulates the intensity of combustion. Safe – because a properly built fireplace under no circumstances produces carbon monoxide in dangerous quantities. After all, it is formed with a lack of oxygen, and with an open portal of a classic fireplace, there is always enough air and oxygen.
Another point of the fireplace view is that, like in a gate valve, a hole is cut out in it, equal in area to 10% of the chimney cross section. This gap is necessary for a minimum draft, which in any case will not allow the flame and smoke to “fall out” of the furnace. Even with the damper closed, the fire spins inside, and the smoke goes up the chimney.
This design allows efficient use of heat even when burning high-calorie fuel. A long spinning flame heats the walls of the furnace as much as possible, and they perfectly heat the room.
If we talk about the possibility of heating water, then it is not possible to put anything in the furnace: the whole dynamics is disrupted. But above the tooth on the pipe, you can put a heat exchanger. Another question is that the temperatures there are already far from being so high and it will not work to heat water for heating, but for hot water supply in a small volume (storage type boiler), there will be enough heat.
In the earliest English fireplaces, the hearth was without grates, sloping outwards. At the same time, the slightest inaccuracy in execution led to the fact that the flame began to rotate in the other direction. At the same time, coals could fly out of the furnace, which is not good at all. Therefore, in the Middle Ages, they began to make small grates and a blower, which was opened only when kindling. When the firewood flares up, the blower closes, which gives impetus to the formation of a fiery whirlwind in the furnace.
Modern English fireplaces are made with both a solid hearth and grates. When kindling deaf models during ignition, liquids are used for kindling. They themselves give sufficient momentum for the formation of a vortex.
Ordering a classic fireplace
Traditional English fireplaces are structurally different from each other in the form of a smoke tooth. For its exact reproduction, only “straight hands” are not enough. It takes a lot of experience. But there are models that are not so critical to this detail. You can fold such a fireplace with your own hands if you know how to handle a trowel and a level.
In this embodiment, the grate is small and located at the very end of the firebox. This made it possible not to be smart with the tooth, but to make it ordinary, stepped. But in this fireplace, during kindling, the blower cannot be closed. The fire “spins” precisely due to the flow of air into the back of the firebox.
Rumford fireplace
One of the varieties of the classic is called the Rumfod (Rumford) fireplace. The principle of operation is the same, only it is not the smoke tooth that provides the swirl, but the narrowed neck of the chimney, the shape of which repeats one of the branches of the hyperbola.
Structurally, it is simpler and requires less space – the firebox may be less deep. All the problems are that the neck must be made with very high accuracy. A deviation of only 5% from the required shape leads to inoperability. This is the main difficulty, therefore we do not recommend making this fireplace with your own hands.
With factory firebox
If there are metal stoves, why not metal fireplaces? And they are. Fireplace inserts are made of complex alloys – organosilicon, composite and special. The processes occurring in the fireplace insert are simulated by special programs, therefore the efficiency of these heaters is high, the installation complexity is medium. Another advantage is that you can connect an ordinary metal chimney.
Another nice point: the weight of the firebox is about 100 kg. If the finish will weigh a little, you can put such a fireplace on a reinforced concrete slab. If you want natural stone, you still have to make a foundation for a fireplace.
When installing a fireplace with a firebox, a number of requirements must be observed:
- the walls near which the heater will be mounted must be covered with non-combustible materials and thermal insulation with a reflective layer;
- the distance from the firebox to the wall is at least 10 cm, to the insulation – less than 5 cm;
- the ash pan should facilitate cleaning, and its inlet should be as close as possible to the firebox;
- the chimney must match the parameters of the furnace;
- chimney joints are sealed with high-temperature sealant;
- the gap between the furnace wall and the lining must be at least 1 cm;
See the video for the principle and procedure for installing a fireplace insert.
Getting permission
A little about ordering the installation of a fireplace in a company or doing it yourself. It’s not just about the technical side of the issue. Usually, difficulties arise long before this – even during the execution of documents. Firefighters do not like to give permission for fireplaces. And permits are required when installing a fireplace in any residential area. The difficulty is that there is no legislative framework that would prescribe the installation rules. There is a similar document for stoves, but not for fireplaces. But there is a phrase in SNiP 2.04.05-91 (on the construction of heating and cooking stoves) that it is forbidden to install heaters with an open firebox in any residential area. From this point of view, you are lucky if you plan to make a fireplace in a country house located in a holiday village – it is not considered a living space.
As often happens, there is another document (MGSN 3.01-96), which in Moscow allows the installation of fireplaces on the upper floors, if the owner is alone. So in the capital, there is a chance to get permission, albeit not for everyone.
There is a loophole for the residents of old brick stalins and Khrushchevs, in which, in addition to ventilation ducts, each apartment also has chimneys. Houses of modern construction, which also have smoke channels, fall under the same category. In all these buildings it is allowed to put heating equipment on a flame. In general, the oven is meant, but this fact is not prescribed anywhere.
You can “push through” the permit by filling out papers and a complex redevelopment with the transfer of heating appliances. An example is the transfer of walls, walls, combining with a balcony or loggia. Do not write about registers or central heating batteries in papers. It is in this general formulation – heating appliances. In the same document, you enter that you are going to put the heater on a flame, attaching a project made in a design organization. In this case, homemade papers do not pass. There is a chance. But in general, the owners of houses and apartments will be driven long and hard. And do not try to argue, otherwise you will never get permission. Redo whatever they require. No other way. It will be a little easier for homeowners. The logic is clear – if problems arise, you will burn yourself. They talk harshly with the owners of apartments, but you can still get permission.
Now, if you don’t want to get involved with all this, you can order the installation of the same fireplace with a firebox in a specialized organization. As a rule, they provide documentation services. Their paths have already been trodden, the chances are much greater. In addition, when accepting your heater, they may (and most likely will) require certificates for all materials, including bolts, screws and stove fittings. This also needs to be known and remembered. And with such a task, the purchase of materials turns into a difficult quest.
Corner fireplace – ordering and video
Very often, fireplaces are made in the corner. It is convenient and practical: this way it occupies the most difficult area for decorating and serves as an excellent decoration itself. When choosing a place for a fireplace, consider such a nuance as the height of the pipe. When laying a fireplace, almost half of the material and time is spent on the formation of the pipe. On the one hand, a high pipe is good – there will be good traction. On the other hand, there are high costs. To reduce them, the fireplace can be placed in the corner where the roof slope is located, and not its ridge. The height of the pipe should still be enough to provide traction, and the costs will be less.
How to make a protective screen
If the fireplace will be in a wooden house, the walls must be protected. Ideally it should look like this:
- wooden walls are sheathed with thermal insulation (it is possible with basalt wool cardboard with an operating temperature of up to 800 ° C, 1,5-2 cm thick);
- on top of it, on ceramic insulators with a height of 3 cm, attach a metal screen.
The walls of the fireplace can be located 5-7 cm from the screen. The dimensions of the metal sheet are 15-20 cm larger than the dimensions of the firebox. Such a multi-layer system will prevent the wooden walls from heating up to any significant temperatures.
Materials, ordering, comments
This fireplace has dimensions of 890*890*1610 mm (excluding pipes). To make it you will need:
- red oven brick 356 pcs (without pipe);
- refractory bricks SHA-8 – 55 pcs;
- smoke damper 250*130 mm;
- steel corner with a wall thickness of 5 mm: 50 * 600 mm – 1 piece; 50*800 mm – 2 pieces;
- steel sheet 3 mm thick 400*600 mm.
The above layout is one of the types of a classic fireplace to install it in a corner. The scheme is quite simple, but in it a large number of bricks require trimming. For laying this brick fireplace, you will definitely need a good grinder and a large number of stone disks.
When forming a tooth in the furnace (10-13 rows), fireclay refractory bricks are hewn. The upper edge of the brick of each subsequent row should protrude 30 mm above the previous one. This edge is hemmed so that it is inclined and even. As a result of laying all 4 rows that form the tooth, the surface should be even and smooth. It will “twist” the flame and reflect heat into the room, so pay maximum attention to this moment.
Sufficiently detailed instructions for laying this fireplace are given in the video.
Masonry conditions and materials
It is necessary to start laying a fireplace with your own hands in the autumn-spring period, when the temperature is kept within 15-20 ° C. Under other conditions, it is difficult to work and requires solid experience.
The brick is taken from the stove, red, full-bodied. Facial and smooth does not fit – it will not withstand temperature changes and will crumble. When choosing a stove brick, pay attention to the geometry and color. Burnt “iron ore” does not suit us, as well as swollen and warped bricks. Only smooth, of the same color, emitting a clear sound when tapped.
Masonry is carried out on a clay-sand mortar. Clay – purchased construction, as well as sand – river, not quarry. The clay soaked to a pasty state is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 3, water is added until a solution of medium plasticity is obtained. Be sure to check the fat content of the solution: take the solution on a trowel, tilt it. The solution should fall, leaving a layer of 1,5-3 mm on the metal. If the layer is thinner, metal is visible, clay is added, if the residue is lumpy and thick, sand and a little water are added. As a result, a solution with the specified conditions should be obtained.
You can knead it all at once. At night, the container with the solution is covered with wet burlap, and mixed several times before work.
When laying, the thickness of the joints is 6-13 mm. Ideally – 8-10 mm. If you are laying a fireplace with your own hands for the first time, constantly use a level and a plumb line. Check every row and even every stone. Fireplaces are tall and narrow devices with a high center of gravity. Such structures do not forgive even the slightest deviations. Therefore, the level must be of good quality, ideally if you have a calibrated plane builder (laser level).
Drying and accelerating furnace
The finished fireplace is dried for at least 20 days, in a well-ventilated area. You can arrange a draft, but the sun’s rays should not fall on the walls. For shading windows and doors, you can hang sheets or tighten the openings with gauze.
After three weeks of drying, you can carry out an accelerating furnace. They take slow-burning fuel (coal-seed, blacksmith’s coal). If the stove was dried in good conditions, they melt it, add fuel in small portions, and heat it for a while. After three days, you can use “to the full.” If the conditions were “not very good”, they start with 3/4 of the bookmark, gradually bringing it to full in a few days.