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Brick has been around for more than a century. From it they built houses in different countries and even parts of the world, having come up with many different methods and types of brickwork. And although there are a lot of secrets and features in the technology itself, you can understand everything. First you need to familiarize yourself with the basic provisions and terminology, without which it will be impossible to understand what is at stake. Then, choose the masonry technique and the type of dressing, and then begin the practical development of skills. Do-it-yourself brickwork can be done at least as well as that of professionals. The only thing in which an amateur will definitely concede is in speed. All other parameters, subject to technology, will certainly not be worse.
Basic terms
Let’s start with general concepts. Everyone knows exactly what a brick looks like, that it is ceramic, and there is silicate – too. But not many are aware of how the edges of this material are correctly called. And in the description of masonry technology, they are very common.
The largest edge is calledpastel“, middle – lateral – “a spoon“, and the smallest -“poke«.
The dimensions of a brick, in principle, are standardized (250 * 125 * 66 mm – single and 250 * 125 * 88 mm – one and a half), but its production technology is such that they can differ significantly from different manufacturers: by 2-3 mm in each of faces, and this is a rather significant difference, given the number of pieces in one row. Therefore, before ordering a batch, it is advisable to measure samples from several firings in order to determine how accurately the technology is maintained.
It is also important to pay attention to the geometry: the edges must be located strictly at 90 °. Otherwise, bursting loads will occur, and the wall may crumble.
Types of masonry
Brick walls can play a different role. In some cases, this is only decoration, in some – partitions, and sometimes – load-bearing walls. Based on the purpose, as well as the required thermal conductivity of the walls, the type of brickwork is selected:
- In half a brick. Most often, this is how cladding is done. The thickness of such a wall is 125 mm. To save money, you can put the material on a spoon, then you get a wall a quarter of a brick. When arranging such (in 1/2 or 1/4) in each 4-5 row, a reinforcing mesh is laid. It is necessary to increase the rigidity of the wall and create additional bonds that increase the strength of the masonry.
- Into a brick It can already be partitions or two load-bearing walls of small buildings. Wall thickness – 250 mm.
- One and a half, two and two and a half bricks are already load-bearing walls.
Dressing and row names
Although a brick wall is made up of many small elements, it should work as a monolith. To provide increased strength, the seams, which are the weak point in this system, are made with an offset. Experts call this technique “dressing”. It seems to connect different elements into a single whole, allowing you to redistribute the load on large surfaces.
To ensure the necessary displacement of the seams, the bricks are arranged in different ways:
- if they are turned to the front side by the smallest part – a poke, such a row is called tychkovy;
- if turned with a long side – a spoon – a row is called spoon.
Moreover, the first in the masonry – on the foundation – lies the bonder, they also finish the masonry. And for him it is necessary to use solid bricks.
Single row dressing
Alternate alternation of such rows gives a very good result. This type of ligation is called single-row or chain ligation. It is practiced on walls that are not planned to be finished: it looks neat. According to such a system, both external and load-bearing walls can be folded.
Wall masonry schemes
Examples of a single-row brick wall in 1,5 and 2 bricks are shown in the photo below.
In the case of laying a wall in two bricks, two more terms appear. Two outer spoon rows are called versts – outer verst directed to the street inner verst – into the room. They use even, good material, especially carefully choosing those that are directed outward. The space between them is called oblivion. Since this element is closed on all sides, you can use a lower grade material, such as second-hand.
Please note that with this masonry, sawn bricks are also required: halves and three-quarters. Three-quarters in the diagram are crossed out crosswise, halves – with one diagonal stripe. How to make the adjunction of partitions to walls made using this technique is shown in the photo below.
Corner schemes
The laying of the corner in this case is very important. According to the method, the corners are first driven out, a cord is pulled between them, and then the wall is laid according to the scheme. But the corners are put first, on how correctly and evenly they are driven out, it depends on how even the whole building will be. The scheme of laying a corner in 1 brick with a single-row dressing is located below. Masonry begins with the installation of two 3/4 pieces, then the whole ones go.
See the video for the sequence of actions. Very detailed explanation with step by step demonstration of the procedure. The same system, but in a wall of 1,5 bricks. In addition to whole pieces, 3/4 pieces and quarters are required. Spoon row alternately on the inside, then on the outside verst.
How this scheme is put into practice, see the video. When laying a corner of 2 bricks in the first row, all the same two three-quarter pieces are required, and another 6 quarters or, as they say, checks. In the second one, one for 3/4 and two checks are already required.
Multi-row dressing
With multi-row dressing, several spoon rows – 6 (for a single brick) or 5 (for a one and a half) – are interspersed with one bonder. The first and last are also placed with pokes. This method is also suitable for laying exterior and interior walls. Only they are usually planned for insulation or decoration.
Wall masonry schemes
So that with such a system, free-standing columns do not turn out, the spoon rows inside are also tied up. To ensure the displacement of the seams, crushed bricks are used.
Do-it-yourself brickwork: multi-row dressing scheme in 2 and 2,5 bricks
The adjunction of walls with this method also occurs with a dressing. This ensures increased strength of the abutment of the walls. Schemes – in the photo below.
Corner masonry patterns
And again about how to lay corners, but with multi-row dressing. If the wall is one brick, even and odd rows (except the first) are the same.
You will see all this in the video.
If the wall is 1,5 bricks, in the first and second rows with bonders, but located either in the outer or in the inner verst. The third and fourth rows are exclusively placed on a spoon.
The fifth row is laid similarly to the third, the sixth – to the fourth. The system then repeats. At times, not a multi-row (with 5 spoon poisons), but a three-row system is required. Then from the fifth row, the clack is repeated.
Mortar for masonry
The brick is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Cement is used not lower than M400, sand is clean, ravine. The proportions for the specified brand are 1 to 4 (for m500 – 1: 5). The batch is done manually or with a concrete mixer, but the order does not change.
First, sand is sifted, a binder is added to it, everything is mixed in a dry state until a uniform color is achieved. Then water is added. Its amount is 0,4-0,6 parts, but they look at the plasticity of the solution. It is more convenient to work with a plastic mortar than with a rigid one, but when laying a hollow brick, in this case the consumption of the mortar greatly increases: it fills the voids. In this case, it is more practical to make a hard solution.
To improve plasticity and more convenient work, lime, clay or liquid detergent are added to the composition (you can use hand soap, there are in large flasks). The number of additives is quite small – no more than 0,1 parts, but the characteristics of the solution improve significantly: it is easier to stack, it does not delaminate for longer.
Immediately it is worth warning: do not knead large volumes at once. The batch must be used within two hours. And in the last half hour, it can be difficult to work with him: the separation of water may begin, or it may begin to seize. It depends on the weather conditions and the quality of the cement, on the thoroughness of the kneading. If do-it-yourself bricklaying is your first experience in this area, it will turn out slowly. Therefore, it is better to make portions of the solution small.
Often for beginners planning to lay bricks on their own, the question arises: at what temperature can you work. Without special additives, it is possible to work at positive temperatures. In the best case – not lower than + 7 ° C. This is the threshold at which the cement normally sets. At lower temperatures, the hardening process practically stops, as a result, the mortar may crumble, and the strength of the wall will be low. To lower the bar, there are special antifreeze additives, but the cost of such a solution is already high: the price of these additives is considerable.
Brick laying technique
Before use, the solution is stirred, as heavy particles can sink down, and water can rise to the top. The mixed solution is placed in buckets and transferred to the masonry site, where it is distributed. Immediately put a strip of mortar – a bed – for one row. Under the tychkovy row, the width of the bed is 200-220 mm, for the spoon row – 80-100 mm. If the seam is completely filled, about 10-15 mm recede from the edge, the mortar height is 20-25 mm, which during laying provides a seam of 10-12 mm. Before installing the brick, the mortar is leveled with a trowel.
There are three techniques for doing brickwork. On a hard low-plastic solution, the “press” technique is used. In this case, the seams are completely filled. If the solution is plastic, use the “butt” technique.
Brickwork technique “butt”
As already mentioned, this method of laying bricks is used with plastic mortar. It should be mobile, easy to apply and move. This is achieved by adding additives. You can spread the solution immediately on the entire surface of the wall: additives allow you to extend the time before setting begins.
The bed is laid with a thickness of about 20 mm, an indent of about 15-20 mm remains from the edge. Such an indentation avoids squeezing the solution onto the front surface, but at the same time, the edges of the seams often remain unfilled. This significantly reduces the strength of the wall, therefore, in regions with seismic activity, the laying of verst rows (outer and inner) by this method is prohibited.
When laying a spoon row, they take a brick, holding it with a slight slope. Bringing to the already laid, at a distance of 8-10 cm, they begin to rake up the solution with an edge (poke). When docking, it turns out that the seam is already partially filled. The brick is pressed down a little (sagging), pressing it to the bed. The excess is removed with a trowel and sent either to a bucket or to a wall.
With this technique, it often turns out that the vertical seams are only partially filled. Therefore, this method is also called “wasteshovka”. They are filled when laying the bed for the next row. If the technique is not yet very well developed, it is better to fill the seams before laying the next row: voids reduce strength and thermal insulation characteristics.
When laying the bonder row, everything is exactly the same, only the solution is raked with a spoon edge. The backing is laid, like the tying rows, and then pressed with the palm of your hand. It is necessary to ensure that all the stones are on the same level. This is done using the building level, and the verticality of the wall is checked with a plumb line every 3-4 rows.
Technique “press-on”
When working with hollow bricks, as a rule, hard mortars are used. In this case, a brick is used with the “press” technique. In this case, you also have to work with a trowel.
The bed is laid at a distance of 10 mm from the edge, the thickness is still about 20 mm. Since such a composition does not stretch well, it is raked to the edge of the laid brick with the edge of the tool. They take a brick with their left hand and press it against the trowel, while pulling it up. At the same time, they continue to press with a brick, achieving the required thickness of the seam (10-12 mm).
Excess solution is picked up with a trowel. Having laid several fragments, they take the level, checking the horizontality of the row, by tapping the handle of the trowel, straightening the position. The solution squeezed out is selected. It turns out dense masonry, but the process takes longer: more movements are required.
Butt with undercut
The average performance method – butt with cutting seams. With this method, the bed is laid out close to the edge (10 mm), as when laying, pressing it, and the laying technique is close-fitting: they raked the mortar with a brick, put it down, pressed it down, and removed the excess. If the wall is subsequently not planned to be finished with anything, after several rows it is necessary to take the jointing – a special tool and give the seams the required shape (convex, concave, flat).
As you can see, this is a kind of symbiosis. To make it more convenient to work, the solution is also made with “intermediate” plasticity. If it is too liquid, it will flow down the wall, leaving streaks, so it needs to be kneaded a little tighter than when laying back to back.
DIY brickwork: tools, order and features
Now, how to lay a brick with your own hands, you have an idea, you need to talk about the procedure as well as some technical nuances.
Let’s start with the tool. You will need:
- mason’s trowel – apply and level the mortar on the bricks;
- concrete mixer or container for mixing mortar;
- mortar shovel – for kneading and periodic mixing;
- two or three buckets for the solution;
- plumb – check the verticality of walls and corners,
- building level – to check the horizontal laying of the row;
- mooring cord – for beating rows;
- jointing (for forming seams);
- hammer-pick for beating undersized bricks (halves, 3/4 and checks – 1/4);
- the rule is a metal or wooden flat bar to check the plane of the wall.
Next, we talk about the features of the technology. First: it is advisable to soak the brick before use. This is especially true in hot dry weather. Then it will “pull” less moisture from the solution. If there is not enough moisture, the cement will not be able to gain the required strength, which will affect the strength of the building.
Second: the corners are driven out first. First two first. They are connected with 2-3 rows of bricks according to the chosen masonry pattern. Then the third corner is expelled. The second and third are also connected by several full rows. After the fourth corner is placed and the perimeter closes. This is how walls should be erected, bypassing them around the perimeter, and the walls will not be kicked out one by one. This is one of the most common mistakes.
Third, there are two row control technologies. The first is that nails are inserted into the seams of the corners, to which fishing line laces are tied. It must be stretched so that it marks the upper edge of the brick, and also limits the outer (and, if necessary, inner) surface of the wall.
The second way is to use wooden or metal orders. This is a flat bar or corner, on which marks are made every 77 mm – risks on wood or cuts on metal. They mark the required row thickness: brick height + seam. They are installed using flat mounting brackets that are inserted into the seam. If necessary, they are then simply removed and rearranged higher.
There is another way – a bricklayer’s corner. It has a slot on one side into which the mooring is inserted. “Sits down” on the corner on the solution.
The disadvantage of this method is the same as just a nail in the seam: the height of the row must be controlled “manually” when deriving corners. With a lack of experience (and where to get it if brickwork is being done for the first time with your own hands), this is difficult. Having (having done it yourself) ordering is easier.
Fourth: preparation of incomplete bricks. As you saw, when laying, they use halves, three-quarter bricks and checks – 1/4 of the part. So that the work does not slow down, before starting the masonry, it is required to prepare them. This is done with a pickaxe. When preparing, high accuracy in size is required, otherwise the dressing will fail. To make it easier to control the length, marks of the appropriate length are made on the handle. Having attached the pen to the brick, marks are made on it on both sides of the spoon. Then, having applied the pick blade to the mark, they beat on the reverse side with a hammer, making notches. Having made notches on both spoons, the picks break the brick with a strong blow.