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How to repair the Beretta geyser if it does not burn and does not heat? In this article, we have collected the main causes of breakdowns, gave advice on how to eliminate them.
Beretta has been manufacturing heating equipment for 60 years. Flow heaters are an economical way to get hot water, but equipment fails with long-term operation.
Major malfunctions and do-it-yourself repairs
Consider the main problems of the Beretta boiler, as well as ways to eliminate them without contacting a service center.
Problems with the igniter
When the water heater is operating, the igniter must be constantly on. If you stop holding the gas adjustment knob, and the igniter does not ignite, this indicates a problem with the automation. The first thing to do is to shut off the water and gas supply.
The flame in the burner occurs when the igniter heats up the thermocouple. If it goes out, the protection system is triggered – the column is turned off. Otherwise, there is a risk of carbon monoxide entering the room. A similar problem can be provoked by such fuse parts:
- Thermocouple.
- Overheat sensor.
- Solenoid valve.
Protection works with rare maintenance of equipment. See if it’s time to clean the igniter: blockages often occur in dusty and damp areas. Which indicates the need for cleaning:
- The burner ignites with a strong pop.
- The flame is not blue, but with red tips.
- Burner constantly goes out.
How to clean:
- Shut off the gas supply, remove the column casing.
- You will see an igniter, it may be clogged with soot.
- Unscrew the tube of the draft sensor and gas supply.
- Remove and clean the nozzle.
- Rinse the tee and other parts under running water.
- Assemble the igniter in reverse order.
Additionally, you can check the solenoid valve, but this will require a multimeter.
Thermocouple malfunctions
A thermocouple is an alloy of two types of metal, which serves to protect equipment from breakage. The part opens and closes the gas supply to the burner. When a thermocouple heats up, its plates expand, producing an EMF (electromotive force). This force is sufficient to open the solenoid gas valve. When the heating stops, the product cools down, the supply is blocked.
For self-repair, you will need spare parts. Keep in mind that for different models (for example, “Idrabano 11”) they may differ.
- The thermocouple is located next to the igniter. Fastened with a nut.
- Loosen the fastening of the bar that holds the part.
- Now turn the thermocouple nut counterclockwise.
- Loosen the contact screw. It is located on the back side of the adjustment knob.
- Disconnect the wiring.
- Install a new item.
Solenoid valve failure
The valve is a coil with a rod and a spring, it serves as protection against gas entering the room. There is a seal around the coil for better closing of all slots. In the normal state, the valve is closed when the equipment is turned off. When the circuit is started and the membrane is activated, the control module sends a signal to the valve to open – gas enters the burner.
Replacing the part is easy, just unscrew the four fastening screws with a screwdriver.
Thermal fuse malfunctions
It works when the column overheats. Try to lower the temperature in the room by opening the windows. To check the fuse, you need to close its contacts with each other. If the column turns on, then it’s overheating. If not, the part is replaced.
Blockage and leakage of the heat exchanger
If the equipment does not heat the water well or does not heat the water at all, you need to clean the radiator. The pressure may also decrease because the coating narrows the passages in the coil tubes.
For cleaning you need:
- Remove the product cover.
- Drain the water from the radiator.
- Remove the mounting bolts.
- Immediately clean the assembly of dust with a brush. To remove scale, use citric and hydrochloric acid.
- Drive the hydrochloric acid solution through the coil with a pump or watering can.
- Dilute citric acid in water, pour inside.
- After 30 minutes, rinse everything with water.
In details about the repair and cleaning of the heat exchanger we wrote in a previous article.
The leak is due to corrosion. Manufacturers are trying to reduce the cost of production by adding impurities to the copper for the radiator. The walls become thin, warm up unevenly. As a result, burnouts appear. The abundance of green spots on the surface indicates an imminent leak.
You can eliminate the accident by soldering. To do this, use a gas burner (for thick-walled radiators) or a soldering iron. You will also need solder and flux.
You can use cold welding or a tin patch. If nothing can help, the heat exchanger is replaced.
When choosing a replacement part, be careful that the new radiator is not soldered or repaired.
No spark when turned on
What was the reason:
- Membrane problems. As we already wrote, the membrane triggers the gas supply valve. To do this, it must be intact and elastic. If the membrane is worn out, stretched, deformed and torn – the burner will go out or not ignite at all. Replace the rubber part with a silicone one, it will last longer.
- In technology with electronic ignition ran out of batteries. The power supply is located at the bottom of the case. Open the cover and replace the batteries.
- Insufficient cold water pressure. Turn the adjustment knob to the right and down.
- Hold the piezo ignition button longer. Check his contacts: they may have gone.
- The ignition electrode has shifted and is at a great distance from the wick. Adjust the position.
- Check if the gas cock is open. If not, then open it.
- No traction. Check your guess by holding a lighted match to the window. If the flame burns steadily, contact the utility company to clean the chimney.
These are typical malfunctions of Beretta gas water heaters. Other troubles happen depending on the situation. Take good care of your equipment to avoid such problems.