Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall: plaster, plaster

You want to make your home beautiful and original. The most reliable way is unique homemade jewelry. One of the very interesting ways is a bas-relief on the wall. This is a three-dimensional image, molded from plaster or any other similar material. Gypsum in its pure form is used very rarely – it hardens too quickly, not giving time for processing. Most often, gypsum plaster mixes are used. They come with additives that make the job easier. With them, you can make a voluminous wall panel with your own hands, even without experience. 

General technology for creating a bas-relief

To make a bas-relief on the wall, you must first prepare it: clean it, level it. Already on a flat and completely dry surface, you can start working. When you are going to make large-sized bas-reliefs, it is advisable to prime the wall – for better adhesion of the composition to the wall.

The bas-relief on the wall can be of varying degrees of complexity. This one is complex. For beginners, it is clearly unbearable. But you know what can be done in the future

For the first experience, it is better to start with small items – such as medallions (round or square) with simple relief images. As a basis for such products, it is best to take moisture-resistant drywall. Under it, you can make a frame (from a profile, for example). In this form, the volumetric composition can be moved from place to place. This makes it easier to learn the basics of technology.

  1. We find and print the image that we want to transfer to the walls. It must be cut from a durable and waterproof material. Plastic is best for this, but thick cardboard can be used. If necessary, the template can be replicated.
  2. We knead the mixture thickly (usually finishing gypsum putties are used). It should have a pasty consistency, should not flow or spread.
  3. We fix the template on the wall (you can use double-sided masking tape), using a spatula, fill the slots with putty.
  4. After half an hour or an hour, we remove the template, trimming the uneven edges that are torn when the template is removed.
  5. If the relief should be deeper, from above, on the resulting spots of plaster, add another composition.
  6. We wait an hour or more – depends on the composition. The material must still be plastic enough – so that it can be cut with a knife, chisels and other similar tools. We select the excess, forming the desired relief.
  7. We wait until it dries completely, we achieve the desired degree of smoothness using sandpaper of different grain sizes (from medium to very fine).
  8. We paint, after drying it can be varnished (not at all necessary, but possible).
      Restrained forms, clear relief

This is the whole technology in general terms. There are nuances that are worth dwelling on separately. The first concerns the application of the starting layer of putty on the walls and the transfer of the pattern. In more complex compositions, the bas-relief on the wall begins with the transfer of the contours of the drawing. They do this with a pencil or crayon (if you know how to draw) or with the help of an image printed in the right size and a carbon paper placed on it. Then we cover the places where we will put putty with soil (for better adhesion), and then with the help of palette knives (small spatulas of various shapes) we apply the first layer of material. Further, the sequence of actions is similar to that described.

Materials for creating a bas-relief

The most common question among beginners: what putty is better to take for making a bas-relief? In principle, any finishing gypsum putty is suitable. Each master has his favorite brands and compositions. Here are a few that we can recommend:

  • Knauf Uniflot. Very strong and plastic. From it you can form a deep relief – it will not fall off even without reinforcement. Drawback: expensive.
  • Fugen. A little less strong, a little worse cut. Much cheaper than Knauf Uniflot (almost three times). You can also make a relief without any problems.
  • PUFAs. This is a gypsum putty with cellulose fiber. Processing time – about 60 minutes, applied with a layer of any thickness, well cut, easy to grind.
  •  “Rotband” for the lower layers and “Shitrok” for the upper.
  • “Acryl Putz” (Poland). Finished acrylic putty. It is good because it slowly “grasps”, it takes an hour or more to work out the details (depending on the humidity in the room).

In addition, impregnation is required. They are selected based on the starting characteristics of the material. There are compounds that strengthen crumbling materials, penetrating deeply and binding the particles of materials to each other. This is necessary, since gypsum panels weigh decently and create an additional load. Without prior preparation, they can fall off from fragile foundations. You can use a moisture-protective primer concentrate from PUFAS. It is suitable for all mineral substrates, including wood and wood-based panels. Aquastop moisture barrier is suitable for loose substrates.

Impregnation for bas-relief primer

In addition, the following compositions are used:

  • before starting work – to improve adhesion to the wall (or base) material;
  • for layer-by-layer processing – when creating a deep relief, when one layer of putty is applied to the already dried, applied earlier;
  • for finishing impregnation before painting – to equalize the absorbency and so that the paint lies evenly, emphasizing the relief, and not hiding it.

For layer-by-layer processing, primers are needed that create a sticky rough surface on the surface. In this case, you can put a new layer of putty even on a surface that has already dried up. Ceresit deep penetration primer and PUFAS impregnating primer are suitable for these purposes. They can also be used for finishing before painting.

Tools

Tools for creating a bas-relief are needed for two types of work – for applying putty and for removing / cutting off excess mortar. Therefore, the set of tools and devices is quite extensive. For applying putty or decorative paints use:

  • Metal trowel made of stainless steel. They apply a solution with it, level it, create a shallow relief of a small size. Usually used when working with large areas.
  • Plastic trowel. She also works on large areas, but with her help they form a deep or extensive (extended) relief: the solution stretches well behind the plastic.
    The main tool for the formation of relief in decorative molding on the walls
  • Putty knife. This is a technical tool. They put a solution on the trowel, pick up the excess, clean it. Also, with its help, a solution is applied to the walls, creating a base layer, then adding in the right places for depth.
  • Palette knives. Small spatulas of various shapes. They can apply the composition, remove it, forming the desired relief.
  • Sculpture stacks. Bilateral professional tool of sculptors with different types and sizes of small spatulas and blades. It is used for the formation of small relief, detailing and accurate drawing. This tool is worth purchasing if you decide to make more than one bas-relief on a wall or ceiling, but turn this activity into a main one.
  • Medical scalpel. You can do without it, but it makes very accurate cuts. Professionals have several scalpels of different sizes and shapes.
    For precise drawing and correction
  • Chisels for woodcarving. They cut fresh plaster no worse than wood. Chisels are very different, with different shapes and sizes of the cutting part. They are selected depending on the shape to be cut.
  • Cream injector. There are no special tools for such a plan, so you have to use one. It is convenient for them to add small portions of material. Such a need arises when the excess is cut off. When choosing, pay attention to the fact that the piston fits snugly against the walls of the tube, otherwise the solution will come out. You have to buy several pieces for one job – syringes break quickly.

These are all the tools you might need. Of the necessary: ​​trowels, spatula, chisels. Palette knives are very convenient, it is difficult to do without scalpels and a confectionery syringe. But stacks are a tool for perfectionists – for fine-tuning the relief.

Making a bas-relief from gypsum plaster: photo report

For the relief painting on the wall, a marine theme was chosen – with fish, octopus, algae. Great option for a first experience! Easy drawing that can be formed gradually.

Here is a drawing on a marine theme for the first production of a bas-relief

Preparatory work

The drawing was transferred with a pencil to a previously leveled and primed surface. For the manufacture of a bas-relief, gypsum plaster SHITROCK / SHEETROCK (with finer grinding) is used. When diluting the solution, a smaller amount of water is added: take 0,5 liters of water per kilogram of the mixture (instead of 0,6 as recommended). With this kneading, the composition turns out to be harsh, but it is this one that is better for making a relief image on the wall.

The solution should be thick enough. Starting with the simplest: algae

Immediately knead a small amount of mortar: gypsum plaster quickly loses elasticity (15-17 minutes) and you need to have time to not only put the entire volume on the wall, but also align and give the desired shape. For the first time, knead 300-400 grams, lay out, give some form. If during the process you feel that you can handle more volume, knead more.

Gradually spread the solution with a palette knife, filling the contour of the algae, cut off the excess, smooth it as far as possible

With this tactic – small portions of the solution – most of the time is spent precisely on kneading the putty. It is better to knead in a bowl with high sides – a bucket or a saucepan. However, the solidified solution is difficult to remove from them. If there is an old ball in the house, you can cut off the top and knead the putty in it. Even small particles are easily removed from such a container.

Pour the powder into the container, add clean cold water, mix quickly with a spatula, then bring the composition to homogeneity, leave for 5 minutes, then mix again. There should be a homogeneous thick paste without lumps or inhomogeneities. The exposure time and “setting” are indicated on the package with putty, if you use a different composition, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Shaping small parts

For starters, it’s easier to start with shallow terrain. When forming small parts, we take a small amount of mortar on the trowel, apply it to the right place, trying to spread it well so that the adhesion of the mortar to the wall is good. If the wall is covered with a primer that improves adhesion (the surface is slightly rough and sticky to the touch), there will be no problems. If the details are very small – such as the tentacles of a jellyfish – it is more convenient to put the solution with a palette knife.

A bas-relief of a jellyfish made of plaster or acrylic putty is not much more difficult to make …

Having laid out the mixed portion of the solution on the wall, we immediately proceed to leveling and shaping the relief. We work with the tip of a trowel, palette knives, knives, chisels, scalpels – everything that is at hand and that can give the desired shape to the surface. If the part has already dried in the process, but has not yet been finalized, it can be moistened with a spray bottle and try to finalize it after a few minutes. When you reach the desired degree of perfection, clean the mixing container of the remaining solution and mix a new batch. Note: container must be absolutely clean. The smallest particles will leave scratches.

We form the main reliefs

When making a bas-relief that protrudes beyond the wall by no more than 2 cm, no reinforcing structures are required. With a greater thickness, in those places where a layer thicker than 2 cm is planned, self-tapping screws are screwed in. It will be possible to navigate along them when applying plaster, they will also support the solution, preventing it from slipping.

The fish and the sink have a larger volume – in some places more than 2 cm. Here we screw in self-tapping screws for reinforcement

In this bas-relief, the most protruding parts are fish and a shell with a pearl. In those places where a thick layer will be laid and screw the screws. We roll the pearl separately, making a ball and putting it on a self-tapping screw.

The thickest place is the head

In places where the relief is supposed to be deep, it is possible to apply the solution not at once, but in several layers. In this case, it is not necessary to smooth the layers. The more uneven the surface is, the easier it will be to apply the next layer. When the desired volume is reached in a certain area (for example, the head of a fish), we begin work on small details – eyes, whiskers, gills, etc.

When working out small details, knead no more than 100-200 grams of mortar – while cutting, leveling, the mortar sets, so large portions are simply not needed.

Scales are drawn for detailing.

After the putty drawing on the wall is ready, it is left for a couple of days until it dries completely. Then you can start grinding – we take sandpaper with a medium grain, process it, achieving the desired smoothness. When the relief is ready, we grind it with fine-grained sandpaper.

An octopus was made on the adjacent wall using the same technology.

Two days or more, elements with a deep relief can dry. Smaller ones – algae, waves, jellyfish – dry out faster. You can start with them. While you bring them to mind, dry and thicker details. After grinding is completely over, remove the dust with a thick brush. You can vacuum if you want. Next, we cover the decorative plaster panel with a deep penetration primer.

The bas-relief on the wall on the marine theme is ready

The last step in making a bas-relief on the wall is painting. Everyone chooses the way of coloring. In this case, a conventional water-based emulsion was used (the primer was for water-based paints). On this, we can assume that you made a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands. In this case, we got a large composition on two free adjoining walls.

One tip: the bas-relief on the wall looks better with specially designed lighting. So before leveling the wall, run the wiring, bring out the ends. After you have leveled and primed the surface, install those lamps with those lamps with which you will further highlight the relief picture. Here, with this light, it will be necessary to grind the three-dimensional panel you made from the plaster mixture. Only in this case everything will look good. Because if the work is carried out in a different light, when installing standard fixtures, you can find “nightmare and horror.”

Bas-relief on the wall: photo ideas

Without experience, it is very difficult to understand what and how can be done with ordinary gypsum plaster. In fact, three-dimensional gypsum paintings can be of very different themes, but the most common are flowers, trees and landscapes (urban, country). In this section, we have collected some of the most diverse bas-reliefs on the wall. With their help, you can come up with a theme for artistic modeling on the walls. In fact, the process is similar to working with plasticine.  Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall: plaster, plaster Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall: plaster, plaster Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall: plaster, plaster Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall: plaster, plaster Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall: plaster, plaster Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall: plaster, plaster Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall: plaster, plaster Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall: plaster, plaster Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall: plaster, plaster

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