Contents
Prefabricated houses are attractive because with a ready foundation, you can put the house itself very quickly. For example, building a frame house with your own hands, with the help of two people, is possible in a month without haste. And this is if inexperienced workers participate in the construction, who only know how to hold a hammer in their hands. This is because the assembly takes place step by step: regular repetition of simple actions. It is only important to know how to properly assemble each node. Having instructions, understanding the principle of construction, anyone can assemble a frame house on their own.
Frame construction is no less attractive in that you can get by with minimal costs. How much money is needed for construction depends on the size of the house, on the materials used (type and grade of wood, finishing materials). But in any case, this is one of the cheapest methods. (Read about house building technologies here)
Timber frame houses are not the only ones. There are regions where wood is a luxury. They put metal frames there. Despite the fact that the metal today is not cheap, it still turns out relatively inexpensively.
One more moment. Many are interested in whether it is possible to leave a frame house unfinished, and if so, at what stages. The answer is that it is possible, and the first stage is known to everyone: the finished foundation is left to winter. Wintering options are also possible in the following form:
- foundation + frame + roof (without floor);
- foundation + frame + roof + OSB outer skin + wind protection;
- foundation + frame + roof + OSB outer skin + wind protection + mounted and insulated floor and ceiling + partitions.
With windows and doors, it is dangerous to leave unattended for the winter. In other options, the delay in completion of construction is even good: the wood will dry out. In winter, as a rule, low humidity and drying is active. At the same time, identify all the jambs in the already mounted part.
In general, I must say that it is good to live in a frame house in which all nodes are made correctly. This technology does not forgive mistakes. Even minor ones. If you want to get acquainted with building codes, find SP 31-105-2002, which is called “Design and construction of energy-efficient single-family residential buildings with a wooden frame.” All descriptions and requirements are there.
Step-by-step construction instructions with a photo
There are several different frame building technologies, but the classic way of building is Canadian. It is also called the platform method, since the floor of the frame house is assembled first, and then the skeleton of the walls is assembled on it, like on a platform. We will tell you how to build a house using this technique. It will not be difficult to deal with the rest: only the sequence of actions differs.
Step 1: Foundation for a frame house
The choice of foundation is a separate complex and voluminous topic. The geological picture on the site, the height of the groundwater, the weight of the building and the seasonality of living in it, the region in which the construction takes place, snow and wind loads are taken into account. But in general, pile, pile-grillage or strip foundations are most often made for skeletons.
In our country, the do-it-yourself palm in frame housing construction belongs to the pile-grillage foundation. It is quickly built, requires small material investments, correctly calculated and built, it is reliable. Combining the advantages of both pile and tape, it evenly transfers the load to all supports.
More reliable in the construction of a pile or pile-grillage foundation are TISE piles. Due to the extended heel, they have a greater bearing capacity and better resist heaving forces.
Drilling wells for piles can be done with a hand drill or motorized. As an opal, a roofing material rolled into pipes of the required diameter is used (at least three layers must be screwed), fixed with adhesive tape. Other options are asbestos-cement or PVC pipes of a suitable diameter. Three or four reinforcement bars are installed inside the piles, interconnected in the form of a triangle or square. Reinforcing bars are cut so that at least 0,7-0,8 meters stick out above the surface of the pile. Everything is poured with concrete of a grade not lower than M25 (read about concrete grades here).
After pouring the piles, a formwork for the tape (grillage) is installed, reinforcement is laid and knitted into it. Longitudinal rods are connected to bent reinforcement protrusions from piles. At this stage, holes are left in the tape for supplying communications and ventilation (insert pieces of plastic pipes across the tape).
A strapping beam will subsequently be attached to the foundation tape. For its installation, studs are fixed in the tape. They are installed in increments of 1-2 meters. 30 cm recede from each corner in both directions. Here the studs are required, the rest, depending on the dimensions of the house, but at least every 2 meters. Keep in mind that it is the studs that connect the frame of the house to the foundation. Therefore, it is better to put more often. And one more thing: no matter how short the wall is, there should be at least two studs.
When everything is ready, the concrete is poured.
After pouring concrete, so that it does not dry out, but gain strength, it is better to cover it with polyethylene (see photo). If the temperature after pouring the foundation is kept within + 20 ° C, after about 3-5 days, construction can continue. During this time, under such conditions, concrete will gain more than 50% of its strength. You can work with him freely. When the temperature drops, the period increases significantly. So at + 17 ° C, you need to wait for about 10 days.
Step 2: Bottom rail and floor
In order for the wood of the frame not to draw moisture from the concrete, cut-off waterproofing of the foundation is necessary. The most reliable way to do this is with bituminous mastic. And better – in two layers. You can also use rolled waterproofing. Cheaper roofing material, but it breaks down over time. More reliable hydroisol or other similar modern material.
You can smear the grillage once with mastic, and roll out the waterproofing on top. Another option for cut-off waterproofing under a frame house is two layers of waterproofing, smeared with mastic: the closer the groundwater is, the more thorough the waterproofing should be.
Then the beds are laid – boards measuring 150 * 50 mm. They must be dry, impregnated with bioprotective and flame retardant compounds. The edge of the bed is aligned with the outer edge of the foundation. In the necessary places, holes are drilled for the studs (the diameter of the hole is 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the stud). Then the second board is laid. It is laid so as to block the junction of the first row. It turns out a castle.
In general, one beam of 100-150 cm can be laid, but its price is much higher than two boards, which in total give the same thickness, and properly fastened two boards have a large bearing capacity, though it takes more time to lay them. In order for them to work as a single beam, they are knocked down with nails in 20 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.
We put the harness and lags
Next, a strapping board is attached to the bed. Its dimensions are also 150-50 mm, but it is placed on edge. It is leveled along the outer edge of the foundation, nailed with long nails (9 cm) to the bed every 40 cm.
The next stage is the installation and installation of the lag. These are the same boards 150 * 50 mm, placed on edge. They are fastened with two oblique nails (9 cm) at the end to the strapping board, two nails to the right and left to the bed. So each lag on both sides.
The photo shows that the first lag is installed close to the second – this way the load on the foundation is better transferred. It is installed along the second edge of the bed. The installation step is 40-60 cm. It depends on the span length and the section of the sawmill used: the longer the length, the smaller the step.
If the logs are long, and there is a cross beam, as in the photo above, so that the logs do not “leave”, jumpers are stuffed over the cross beam. They are equal in length to the lag installation step minus twice the board thickness: if the lag step is 55 cm, the board thickness is 5 cm, then the jumper will be 45 cm long.
Insulation and flooring
After the base for the flooring is mounted, it’s time to insulate the floor. It can be done in different ways, with different materials. We will show an economical option – with foam polystyrene plates with a density of 15 kg / m3 (more is possible, less is not). Of course, it is not environmentally friendly, but the only one is not afraid of moisture and can be mounted without a subfloor. The estimated thickness of the insulation is 150 mm, two layers are laid: one 10 cm, the second 5 cm. The seams of the second layer should not coincide with the seams of the first (shift).
To begin with, a 50 * 50 mm cranial bar is stuffed along the lower edge of the lag. It will hold the foam.
Styrofoam is cut with an ordinary hacksaw. The canvas can be taken on wood – it is cut faster, but a torn edge is obtained, or on metal – it goes more slowly, but the edge is smoother. The cut plates are stacked in two layers, the seams overlap. Then they are glued around the perimeter with a sealant – to ensure waterproofing.
Next, lay a draft floor from boards, level it and lay plywood on top (preferably FSF 5-6 mm). So that the rough flooring from the boards does not warp, lay the boards alternating the direction of the wave. If you look at the cross section of the board, the annual rings go in a semicircle. So, you need the arc to either look up or down (see photo).
You can do without flooring from the boards. Then the thickness of the plywood should be at least 15 mm. Consider what is more profitable in your area and choose.
In any case, the sheets should be stacked in a run – the seams should not match (as in brickwork). Do not forget to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between plywood sheets to compensate for dimensional changes with changes in humidity.
Plywood is attached to self-tapping screws 35 mm long (white is better – less marriage) around the perimeter in 12 cm increments, inside in a checkerboard pattern in 40 cm increments.
An example of using frame technology for the construction of a wooden shed is described here.
Step 3: Frame Walls
There are two ways: the wall frame is assembled (all or part – depending on the size) on the floor, then it is lifted, exposed and fixed. Sometimes, with this method, OSB, GVL, plywood are attached directly to the floor from the outside of the frame: the rigidity is greater. This technology is called frame-shield or “platform”. Factories mainly work according to this principle: they build ready-made shields according to the project in the workshop, bring them to the site and only mount them there. But frame-panel housing construction is possible with your own hands.
The second way: everything is going gradually, in place. The beam of the lower trim is nailed, the corner posts are set, then the intermediate ones, the upper trim, etc. This is the technology that is called “frame house building” or “balloon”.
Which one is more convenient? It depends on how many people work and whether it is possible, at least periodically, to attract assistants. Working on the floor is faster and more comfortable than jumping up/down the ladder countless times. But if the section is assembled large, then it will be difficult to lift it even with two people. The way out is either to call assistants, or to break the wall frame into small segments.
Installation step and section of racks
Corner posts should be 150 * 150 mm or 100 * 100 mm, depending on the load and the required width of the insulation. For a one-story frame house, 100 mm is enough, for a two-story frame house – at least 150 mm. The intermediate posts are the same in depth as the corner ones, and their thickness is at least 50 mm.
The installation step of the racks is selected taking into account the load, but in reality it is more often selected based on the width of the insulation. If you will insulate with mineral wool in rolls or mats, first find out the actual width of the material. The gap between the posts should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then there will be almost no waste, gaps and crevices through which heat will escape – too. The density of installation of insulation in the frames is the main point, because only it will serve as protection from the cold. The slightest violation will lead to the fact that the house will be cold. Therefore, the selection of insulation and its installation must be treated with full attention.
Racks can be fastened in several ways: with wooden dowels, with a notch or on corners. The cut into the board of the lower trim should be no more than 50% of its depth. Corners are attached on both sides. Fastening with dowels is an old technology, but difficult to perform: long dowels are cut out, a hole is drilled obliquely through the rack and the beam of the lower trim, a wooden spike is driven into it, the excess of which is cut off. It works well if the wood is used dry. If not, drying out and loss of fastening rigidity are possible. Installation on reinforced corners is much easier.
According to Canadian technology, the beams to which windows and doors are attached are made double. There is more load here, therefore, the support should be more powerful.
How to make a gazebo out of wood (also using frame technology) read here.
Bevels or braces
If the outer skin is planned from high-strength board material – OSB, GVL, GVK, plywood – temporary cuts are placed from the inside of the room. They are needed to align and maintain the geometry until the outer skin is attached. The strength of this material is enough to create the required structural rigidity.
If the lining is planned to be type-setting – from lining, etc. installation of permanent jibs is required. Moreover, the best option is not those that are placed on several racks, but four small pieces for each: two on top and two on the bottom (as in the photo below).
Pay attention, in the photo above, the racks are prefabricated: two boards are knocked together with nails all over in a checkerboard pattern. Such racks have an even greater load-bearing capacity than solid ones, and cost less. This is a real way to reduce construction costs without losing quality. But the time for construction increases: a lot of nails have to be hammered.
Frame house corners
Most questions arise when building corners. If you put a beam in a corner, then there seems to be no difficulties, except for the fact that the corner turns out to be cold. In regions with short and mild winters, this is not a problem, but already in central Russia it requires some kind of solution.
There are several ways to make the corner of a frame house warm. All of them are shown in the diagrams, so clearer.
After assembling the frame, most often it is sheathed on the outside with OSB, plywood or other similar material.
The construction of a woodcutter is described in this article.
Step 4: Overlay
The floor beams are supported by the upper trim beam. There are several mounting methods:
- on supporting steel brackets;
- to the corners;
- with inset;
The dimensions of the beams, the step of their installation depend on what will be on top. If the second residential floor or attic, the section is taken larger, the step is made smaller: so that the floor does not sag. If only the roof and the attic are supposed to be non-residential from above, these are completely different calculations and sizes.
If the second floor is being completed, the ceiling is sheathed with a draft floor of the second floor. So it will be easier to work on creating the second floor of a frame house. Its assembly is no different from the construction of the first. Is it only because all the lumber has to be dragged to the second floor.
Step 5: Rafter system and roofing material
When developing a house project using frame technology, the most popular are a gable or mansard roof. Their device is no different. All the same principles and calculations. The only restriction concerns the weight of the roofing: it must be a lightweight material, the load from which the wooden beams and ceilings can withstand.
Another relatively inexpensive technology for building a house from aerated concrete is described here.
Step 6: Warming
You can insulate a frame house with any of the materials available on the market with the appropriate characteristics. All of them are imperfect, but all problems have standard solutions.
The most popular insulation for frame walls is basalt wool. It is produced in the form of rolls or mats of different densities. It is more convenient to install mats in the walls: they are denser and hold themselves well due to the bursting force. To do this, as mentioned above, their dimensions should be 2-3 cm more than the distance between the racks of the frame. Mats, of course, are additionally fixed with special fasteners, but it is more convenient to work than with a soft roll.
Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics, good sound insulation. But there is also a serious drawback: it is afraid of getting wet and it must be protected from all sides not only from moisture (rain), but also from the penetration of steam. Therefore, from the side of the room, it is closed with a layer of vapor barrier membrane, which prevents vapors from penetrating inside.
From the side of the street, thermal insulation made of mineral wool is covered with another membrane, but of a different type with different characteristics: a hydro-wind-proof vapor-permeable membrane. It is not blown through, from the side of the street it does not allow moisture in the liquid and gaseous state to pass through, and vapors can escape from the insulation: the vapor permeability is one-sided. After installing the insulation, only finishing work remains. Actually, everything, construction is over.
Now you know how to build a frame house. The detailing of some processes is far from complete, but you have the general assembly sequence.
Video “Turnkey frame for 2 months.”
Perhaps more videos from a professional carpenter who has been building frame houses for decades will help you (see below).
Video instructions for the installation of frame houses
These are three videos of the excellent carpenter Larry Hohn. Each one is over an hour long. The technology for building a frame house on a finished foundation is described in great detail.
According to this instruction, self-construction is possible without question: all the stages of building a frame house and the little things are commented and explained, up to which nails, what length, how many pieces with what step, to hammer in each node. Demonstrates the main problems that may arise and methods for their correction. If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, take the time to watch the movie. Much will become clear to you.
The first part is the bottom harness and the floor.
The second part of the video is the device and assembly of frame walls.
The third part is the construction of the roof of the frame house.
If you still doubt whether it is worth building a frame house, it is probably because you heard that this is a bad technology, that it does not work for us. There is such an opinion. But it is based on the fact that Canadian and American frame houses are placed from a dry forest, with moisture. no more than 20-22%. In our conditions, wood of almost natural humidity is brought from the sawmill, and this is up to 60%. Because the house leads and twists, they become cold.
But if you are going to build a house with your own hands, what will prevent you from using dry wood? It is expensive for chamber drying, the difference per cube is very decent – almost twice. But by folding the wood on the site in ventilated stacks, it can be dried up to the same 20-22% in a year. Whether or not to impregnate with bioprotection before drying, you decide for yourself. Dry wood does not rot and is not damaged by fungi, but it is desirable to impregnate it with bioprotection from insects.
An example of such an opinion is in the video. With an explanation of why the technology is bad…