DIY Florarium – step by step instructions for beginners

It is far from easy to grow tropical plants in our houses and apartments. Dry air just kills them, and if not, they don’t look their best. Therefore, many think about how to create suitable conditions for them. Unfortunately, not many can boast of their own greenhouse or winter garden, but everyone can put them under glass. We will talk further about how to make a florarium with your own hands. And don’t be scared. You will need a little space, at least until the first experience. Then the number of mini-gardens in the bank begins to grow catastrophically. But the problem with gifts is solved, because the finished garden in a bottle is completely immodest. 

What is a florarium

Back in the middle of the 19th century, someone once came up with the idea of ​​planting plants in a glass container. The experiment turned out to be very successful. The composition looked great, the plants developed and even bloomed. By analogy with aquariums and terrariums, such gardens in glass began to be called “florarium”.

Today, terrariums for flowers are made mainly in special glass or plastic vases, flasks and other containers. Planted most often succulents, moss. There are lovers of growing tropical plants. They love high humidity, so a closed container is for them. Orchids and other plants that can grow without soil feel great in florariums. Since the containers are airtight, it is possible to create conditions for semi-aquatic and marsh plants, but this version of the garden in the aquarium is called the paludarium.

If desired, a mini-garden in a vase can be bought. But making a florarium with your own hands is not so difficult, and it will bring much more joy. It may not be easy to find the right combination of soil components and matching plants, but there are some proven combinations. You can peep them in the photo, but it’s much more interesting to pick them up yourself.

Tanks for florariums

The sizes of florariums are very different – from a few hundred milliliters to tens or even hundreds of liters. The shapes are also very diverse, but spheres and cylinders predominate. To make a florarium with your own hands, it is not necessary to buy a container. If you have an abandoned aquarium of any shape, a large jar or vase, you can use them. True, they must meet certain requirements:

• A container for florariums should help retain moisture. Balls or other containers with holes on the side are great for this. A little worse if the hole is on top, but it is of a smaller diameter. Smooth across the entire width of the vessels are suitable for cacti and succulents. They don’t need high humidity. But if you want, you can plant a tropical plant. But in this case, you need a cover.
  

• The height of the container must be sufficient for laying all the necessary layers of soil. Plus, it will be necessary to plant plants so that their height is taken into account. At least a third of the capacity should be free, and preferably half.
• Glass should be transparent, not colored. The walls must let in enough light.

For a sample, you can make a florarium in a jar of an unusual shape or an inexpensive container. When you master all the subtleties, including the features of care, it will be possible to build something more serious.

What plants to plant

The choice of plants for the florarium is limited by the volume in which you plan to pack them. For beginners, it is best to start with succulents and cacti. Species diversity, different shapes and colors allow you to create different compositions. These plants do not grow too fast, care requirements are minimal.

As a short-term project, you can make a florarium with early-flowering bulbous plants. These are snowdrops (all their types), tulips, hyacinths, etc. The time can be chosen so that by the appointed date (New Year, birthday, March 8, etc.) the flowers will release buds or begin to bloom.

When creating compositions, it is desirable to select the composition of plants not only in appearance. It is easier to care for a mini-garden in a vase if the plants have the same growing conditions. In this case, they can be planted in the ground. But, if you’re using “non-dwarf” size plants, it’s easier to take it out in a pot. Pots are masked with sand or decorative stones.

A similar technique – in separate pots – allows you to grow plants in one florarium that need to be looked after in different ways. But then you need to remember what, when and how much to water, feed, etc. This is not acceptable for everyone, as it requires attention.

Succulents for the garden in a jar

The most popular when creating florariums are succulents and for good reason. Usually they are easy to care for, are small in size, do not grow too fast, while looking exotic and different. Moreover, even one type of succulents can differ significantly in appearance, be of different shapes and have different colors of “leaves”, different flowers, etc. Just keep in mind that they do not like high humidity, so when choosing a vase, choose a wide-mouthed one. And one more thing: they will need to be watered very rarely, and so that not the entire layer of soil / sand gets wet. It will be necessary to make a large drainage layer, and use coarse-grained sand with the addition of soil as soil.

Haworthia (Haworthia)

It does not bloom, but has decoratively colored lancet leaves. Undemanding to temperature and humidity conditions. Can be used in combination with more demanding plants. Does not like wet soil too much and can rot from moisture getting into sockets.

Aptenia

Flowering plant, flowers are small bright pink, lilac, white. The leaves are fleshy, small. It is not too demanding on growing conditions, tolerates both high and low humidity.

Монантес (Monanthes)

There is Monanthes (Monanthes) in the form of a very small shrub, and there is a grassy one. Can create cushion-like dense curtains. Stems are erect with a leafy rosette at the top. Some species bloom. It is not too demanding on temperature, does not like high humidity, but needs good lighting. A dormant period with a decrease in temperature in winter is desirable.

Piaranthus (Piaranthus)

It has a very unusual shape – the stems are creeping, consist of segments. Each of the segments has several “teeth”. Combined with unusual coloration – various shades of green and brownish green, star-shaped flowers – this plant will attract attention. Can be the center of the composition. Care requirements are low, it should only be protected from direct sunlight in the summer.

Argyroderma (Argyroderma)

The very unusual shape of the plant, in combination with the silvery shade of the leaves, gave rise to their popular name – living stones. In shape, the leaves resemble small pebbles (usually no more than 2 cm), from which a large and bright flower grows. The conditions are generally undemanding.

Conophytum (Conophytum)

This type of succulent is also called living stone. The leaf shapes are even stranger and more unusual. Flowers are very similar to daisies – bright and large. They have a clear growing season and dormancy. Vegetation is usually in winter, rest – in the summer months.

Echeveria (Echeveria)

This type of succulent is also called a stone rose. Care is simple, but it is better not to touch the leaves with your hands. They are covered with the thinnest coating, which is erased when touched. But since the florarium is almost a closed container, the likelihood of plaque damage is small. Another feature is that a dormant period with a temperature of about 15 ° C is necessary.

Lithops (Lithops)

Lithops also look like stones that suddenly bloomed. They differ in that they can change the color of the leaves to match the color of the soil. They grow very well on rocky soil, withstand high temperatures. Care is similar to cacti, so they can be combined. Grow slowly, for normal development require bright light.

These are far from all succulents and there are still no less interesting ones, but even these are enough to create a couple of thousand very different compositions.

Mosses for florariums

Stabilized mosses are often used for florariums. This is ordinary moss, in which water is replaced by a special solution, which, as it were, preserves the plant. It is not dry either in appearance or to the touch, but all biological processes are stopped.

More common and easily accessible is Sphagnum moss, in florist shops you can buy a variety that is more suitable for the planned planting conditions. In general, “ordinary” moss can be found almost anywhere where there is enough moisture. In any case, near the well, in the storm drain, etc. You just pick up a certain amount, then lay it on the soil, stones, etc.

You can grow moss on purpose – on stones, snags. It will take time, of course, but the result is worth it. If there are seeds – use them, no – pick up any moss along with the ground in which it grows. Next, we take kefir (better – bio) or molasses, or whey (unpasteurized), add a nutrient medium. The easiest option is grated potatoes. Add moss to this mixture and mix everything in a blender. With an old brush, apply to places where the moss should take root. Since mini-gardens require microscopic doses, you can do without a mixer by simply mixing the composition well.

How to replace moss (ground cover plants)

Very similar to Nertera moss. It is also called coral moss, but it is just a miniature herbaceous plant. It is interesting in that under favorable conditions it is covered with bright orange, no less bright yellow or lilac / dark blue, purple, white berries.

Selaginella Krausa and Selaginella Jory. These are compact tropical plants with a leaf height of 2-5 cm. They form dense cushions of bright greenery. They can successfully replace moss.

Soleirolia (Soleirolia). In nature, it forms small mounds about 5 cm high. The foliage is green, of different shades. Long thin shoots with very small leaves. In recent years, varieties with silver and golden foliage have been bred.

Tropics in the aquarium

Many consider only compositions with tropical plants or those that love high humidity as a florarium. Since there is no clear terminology, this point of view cannot be called erroneous. In any case, this is also a mini-garden, but not in a glass or a jar, but in a more or less large aquarium.

When choosing plants for a florarium with tropical vegetation, the growing conditions are the determining factor. The second thing they pay attention to is the size to which an adult plant grows. Another point is the growth rate. The best choice is slow growing. Below is a list of plants that are recommended for such compositions.

• Socket
  • fittonia (Verschaffelt, silver-veined, dwarf species)
  • ferns
  • Epicure
  • Pilea
  • royal begonia
  • Nephrolepis
  • cryptanthus bromeliad
  • small-leaved pilea
    

• Not too high
  • Nephrolepis
  • maidenhair (Ruddy, small-haired)
  • ficus sunny
  • philodendron small-leaved
  • selaginella
  • Anthurium
  • soleirolia
  • bromeliads
    

• Curly/ampel
  • ivy (Spetchley, variegated, Little Diamond, Tre Coupe)
  • ficus sleigh, ampelous small-leaved green and variegated
  • pellionia
  • Tradescantia
  • peperomia
  • soleirolia
    

• Blossoming
  • • Violets
    • arrowroot
    • orchids
    • Squirrel Caterpillar (Sinningia pusilla)
    • saxifrage

  In each group there are a large number of varieties that differ not only in color, but also in size. You can always pick up a group with similar care and growing conditions, and which will not grow very quickly. Another option is plants that normally tolerate frequent pruning. Rather, they do not react too negatively to them. In high humidity conditions this can be a problem.

  Homemade florarium

  After you have decided on the composition of the plants, you can think about what soil to plant them in. The very composition of the soil is selected according to the requirements of plants. You can only discuss the composition for cacti and succulents: two parts of soddy clay soil, one part of humus and river sand, you can add more brick chips. Before you make a florarium, let’s talk about the sequence of layers. You will need to stock up on materials in sufficient quantities.

  Creating a composition

  Determination of the planting site takes place in two stages. The first is when choosing plants. You imagine what and how it should look like. When creating a composition, there are several rules:

  • If a florarium, a garden in a jar or a bottle is visible on only one side, we plant taller plants in the background. They can be placed along the back wall. Moreover, the uneven “relief” looks more interesting – plants of different shapes, colors and heights (if there are several of them).
    

  • If the composition should be viewed from all sides, the tallest plant is in the center, then to the edges – in descending order.
  • In small compositions, the principle of a triangle is observed: one plant is tall, about a third of the space is occupied by a plantation of medium height, the rest is undersized, ground cover.
  • For small florariums with flowering plants, it is the flower that usually leads. All other decoration only emphasizes its beauty.

  When you have already bought all the plants, before planting, install them first in the soil already poured in the vessel. It may well turn out that something needs to be moved, swapped, or removed altogether. This must be done before you begin to take the plants out of the pots.

  In pots or in the ground

  As mentioned earlier, you can plant plants in the florarium directly into the ground, you can leave them in pots. Each option has its own merits. In pots, plants can be easily removed, moved, replaced. This will cause minimal damage to neighboring plants. But then the composition of the soil is generally unimportant – you can simply fill the gap with pebbles, rubble, decorate from above. The same option is good if the plants have a different mode of watering and feeding. It is possible to implement this in pots.

  The advantage of planting in the ground is the creation of a single ecosystem. If you decide to plant without pots, carefully remove the plants, using your hands to remove as much soil from the roots as possible. In the soil of the florarium (wire loop, miniature spatula, hands) make a recess. Size – so that the roots freely enter. You plant a plant, sprinkle, compact the soil. When everything is planted, water it.

  Soil in layers

  In general, in most cases, the following sequence of layers for a garden in a vase / glass / jar is recommended:

  • A layer of stones of the middle fraction. We are usually talking about pebbles – with rounded edges. The thickness of the layer is about 5 cm. The purpose of this layer is clear – it accumulates excess moisture.
  • Charcoal. The charcoal serves as a filter to keep nutrients from seeping through. It is also a kind of flora stabilizer, helps to maintain moisture. The thickness of the charcoal layer is 2 cm or so.
  • Next, the actual soil that is suitable for your plants. Its thickness should be sufficient for the existing root system. If you expect plant growth, you can make it thicker. In any case, after planting, at least 1/3 of the height of the container should remain unoccupied.

  Here, in fact, the basic composition of the soil for the florarium. But since plants of even the same species feel good in different soils, the layers change. And sometimes even for the sake of appearance. Therefore, it is worth adhering to only one piece of advice: there should be a layer at the bottom where excess moisture can accumulate.

  The only thing we do not recommend is using expanded clay instead of pebbles on the bottom layer or backfilling between plants. Despite popular belief, it absorbs moisture. Moreover, it also accumulates salts dissolved in water. After a while, the soil becomes too salty for most plants.

  Possible variations of soil laying

  What other soil can be used for planting plants in the florarium? Here are the possible variations:

  • Instead of one fraction of stones, two can be used. Medium, on top – small, and coal is already on it.
  • At the bottom – under the pebbles – pour sand. This option is good for growing succulents.
  • Stones and coal (sometimes they put the soil right away) are separated by a garden mesh with a fine mesh (1 mm), garden spunbond can be used. This barrier will not allow the layers to mix.
    

  • For plants whose root system is demanding on air supply, you can use only pebbles or gravel, you can put stones along the edge, pour soil inside, delimiting the layers with a strip of the same spunbond or mesh.
  • Coniferous bark can be laid along the edges – it is both to stabilize moisture and as an antiseptic, and as a recharge – as it decomposes, nutrients will be washed into the soil. If you break it into small components, you can use it to cover the ground from above.

  One important point: if you find pebbles and sand yourself, the materials must be disinfected. They are either calcined in the oven or boiled for half an hour. After boiling, dry and only then use. Similarly, it is necessary to do with snags.

  Florarium care

  In this section, we will describe the features of caring for plants in a closed or almost closed container. Moisture evaporates much more slowly from glass containers, so be prepared for the fact that you will have to water less often. No one will be able to tell you specifically – the conditions and plants, the sizes and parameters of the containers – all this is different. Just look at the condition of the soil and the “inhabitants” of the florarium.

  While the soil is moist, drops settle on the glass, evaporation is visible. When the glass becomes transparent, wait a few days and you can water. The duration of the “pause” depends on the plants. If these are succulents, the “dry” period can be a week or two. For other plants – a few days. Once again: it all depends on the moisture-loving habits of the inhabitants.

  A few words about how to care for a mini-garden in a jar, glass, vase. The most convenient way is a plastic bottle with a cap, equipped with a long spout. Such plastic bottles are in hair dye (wash and soak in water), some medicines are packed in them. In pharmacies, you can find empty ones called “dropper bottles.” They also come with a dispenser. You can buy in stores for handicrafts or find something similar in household. In general, who seeks, he will find.

  Another option is a large syringe without a needle. It is ideal for spot root watering, fertilization, etc. That is, where accurate and dosed application is important.

  If we talk about spraying, then you can look for any small spray gun. For very tiny ones, pumps from medicines and cosmetics are suitable. Of course, they should be thoroughly washed.

  Photo for inspiration

  If you have reached the end of this article, which cannot be called short, you are definitely interested in a mini-garden in glass. It remains to decide exactly how you arrange it and in what capacity. A few photos for inspiration are collected in this section. Enjoy! And good luck!