Dermatologist Alexander Prokofiev: what to expect from anti-aging cosmetics

Illusions, fantasies, delusions… There is too much fog and myths around anti-aging cosmetics. We asked a Healthy-Food expert to dot the i’s on this important issue.

Skin protein collagen is the main structural component of the skin, which is responsible for its firmness, elasticity, smoothness, that is, for youth. Collagen is produced by specialized cells called fibroblasts. When the life of collagen ends, it decomposes under the influence of enzymes and releases a peptide that informs fibroblasts about the need to synthesize new collagen.

While we are young, this process is active, but with age, the susceptibility of fibroblasts decreases and there is less collagen. As a result, wrinkles appear.

From top to bottom: the sequence of amino acids, the collagen molecule and the collagen fiber, the basis of our skin’s elasticity.

In addition to natural age-related processes, skin aging is promoted by gravity, excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation (it is the most active of all external factors that destroys collagen), unhealthy lifestyle, strict diets, and smoking.

Do you want to know the true age of your skin? Take our test.

To prevent wrinkles and fight them, it is necessary to use anti-aging cosmetics and sunscreens.

This is how you can enjoy your vacation only under the “cover” of a sunscreen. It is the alpha and omega of anti-aging care.

The main “anti-aging” ingredients are retinol and its derivatives, vitamin C, peptides and acids.

retinol helps to reduce wrinkles and improve skin turgor. It stimulates the formation of new cells and promotes exfoliation of old ones, due to which the complexion improves and pigmentation decreases. Retinol also stimulates the work of fibroblasts, which increases the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, as a result, the elasticity and hydration of the skin increases.

Serums with retinol are used, as a rule, in night skin care.

Vitamin C – the most powerful antioxidant, blocks the action of free radicals that trigger the processes of oxidation and aging. Vitamin C increases the stability of collagen, promotes its synthesis, thereby preventing the appearance of wrinkles and smoothing existing ones. In addition, it moisturizes the skin and prevents hyperpigmentation.

In addition to antioxidant activity, vitamin C has many other skin-friendly properties.

Peptides have been included in the list of anti-aging cosmetics ingredients relatively recently. Signal peptides stimulate the production of collagen and elastin in the skin. Enzyme inhibitors inhibit the action of collagen-degrading enzymes. Neurotransmitters – reduce wrinkles by relaxing muscles.

acids (glycolic, almond, malic, tartaric, etc.) exfoliate the skin, moisturize and improve the barrier function, as well as increase the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin.

Lactic acid is also one of the exfoliating and skin-renewing AHA acids.

Cosmetics containing such ingredients are, in my opinion, the main fighters against age-related changes. Regular and timely use of such products will help prolong the youthfulness of the skin.

Cosmetics Review

Healthy-Food offers a review of anti-aging cosmetics with ingredients that our expert speaks about.

Intensive concentrated anti-aging care Redermic Retinol, La Roche-Posay

The optimal concentration of retinol allows you to achieve a visible effect: wrinkles are smoothed out, the complexion is evened out, pigmentation gradually disappears.

Antioxidant youth concentrate LiftActiv, Vichy

Vitamin C in a high concentration (15%) is combined with other antioxidants: vitamin E, pine polyphenols, neohesperidin, as well as hyaluronic acid, which is important for youthful skin.

Firming Sheet Mask, Age Expert, L’Oréal Paris

The effectiveness of the mask is due to a balanced composition with active ingredients: a retinol precursor (proretinol), peptides and hyaluronic acid.

Nightly Refining Micro-Peel Concentrate, Kiehl’s

Contains a set of fruit acids that accelerate the natural renewal of the skin, even out the relief and tone, smooth out wrinkles, and refresh the appearance.

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