Before you buy a new SPF cream, be sure to read what is written on the package.
Sunscreen cosmetics are designed to protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation (UV-B and UV-A), prevent sunburn, protect the skin barrier, thereby preventing photoaging, destruction of collagen fibers, hyperpigmentation, and the development of skin cancer.
Doctor-cosmetologist of the FACEOLOGY beauty space.
However, many consider sunscreen cosmetics to be the most controversial in the beauty industry. From the point of view of production, it requires a good scientific and technical base, therefore, when choosing such a tool, one should give preference to well-known brands. Today there are physical и chemical filters included in sunscreen cosmetics. There are also herbal filters, such as some vitamins, essential oils and algae, which are often added to cosmetics that contain physical or chemical filters. They are not used on their own as the main sunscreen ingredient.
Action physical filters based on the reflection of UV rays, there are only two of them – titanium dioxide (titanium dioxide) and zinc oxide (zinc oxide). They have excellent safety performance and protect the skin from a wide range of UV radiation. Their only drawback is Because they can leave white streaks when applied to the skin, “overload” the stratum corneum and interfere with normal exfoliation, but modern cosmetics manufacturers are trying to prevent this by using micronized nanoparticles of these substances. Such physical filters are undesirable for use on damaged skin.
“Work” chemical filters based on the absorption and conversion of ultraviolet energy into infrared radiation, that is, heat. In cosmetic sunscreens, as a rule, several of them are used at once. The most dangerous, in our opinion, are those that can be absorbed into the bloodstream and have a systemic effect.
These ingredients include:
– a group of para-aminobenzoates (aminobenzoic acid (aminobenzoic acid);
– amyl dimethyl PABA (amyl dimethyl PABA);
– octyl dimethyl PABA;
– glyceryl aminobenzoate, etc.), their carcinogenicity, effect on the nervous and circulatory system has been proven;
– benzophenones, benzophenone-3 (benzophenone-XNUMX) is more common, as well as other names of ingredients belonging to this group: avobenzone (аvobenzone), dioxybenzone, oxybenzone (oxybenzone), etc., can cause an allergic reaction and disruption of the endocrine system (stimulating the production of estrogens and suppressing the production of androgens);
– padimate O (padimate O) can cause contact dermatitis;
– homosalate (homosalate) inhibits the production of estrogen, progesterone and testosterone;
– meradimate. There is evidence in research that it can increase the concentration of reactive oxygen species;
– octinoxate (octól methoxócinnamate), octocrylene (octocrulene) affect the endocrine system.
That is why you need to check the composition of the sunscreen before buying. If you find one of these ingredients in the composition, you should refuse to purchase and use such a product.