Cutting roses at home

Contents

Rules for propagating roses by cuttings
Methods for cutting roses
Popular questions and answers

Roses are one of the most beloved garden shrubs, but good seedlings are very expensive. However, they can be easily propagated by cuttings. Let’s find out how to do it

Rules for propagating roses by cuttings

Cuttings are one of the main ways to propagate roses. There are two options – green and cuttings and lignified. The first case is used for summer propagation of garden roses. The second is for winter and spring. And he is the most popular. And in this way you can propagate roses from a bouquet, because in flowering shoots the lower part of the shoot is always lignified.

Cutting cuttings

Rooting cuttings can be cut from any part of the shoot, with the exception of the top with a flower. Each cutting should have 2 nodes – this is the place where the leaves are attached to the stem and where the buds are. The thickness of the cutting should be at least 5 mm – too thin will not take root.

The lower cut should be oblique – it is made just below the knot, stepping back about 5 mm. Why oblique? But because the callus (the tissue from which the roots then grow – a kind of white growth) is best formed around the cut. And the larger its area, the larger the callus. And one more thing: it is very important to make cuts with a sharp knife – if the tissues of the shoot are wrinkled, it will most likely rot and will not give roots.

In here, the top cut should be straight. They do it by stepping back from the node the same 5 mm. Why direct? Moisture escapes through the wound, and besides, it is an open gate for infection. That is why the area of the upper cut should be minimal.

Preparation of cuttings

The lower leaves are removed from the cut cuttings. And the upper ones are shortened – rose leaves usually consist of 3 or 5 segments, and only 2 need to be left.

The lower end of the cutting is powdered with a root formation stimulator – Heteroauxin or Kornevin will do (1). For reliability, it is useful to cover the upper cut with children’s plasticine.

Soil for rooting cuttings

Rose cuttings give roots, but not as easy as, for example, currant twigs – just putting water on them is not enough. It is best to root them in the ground. And there are options.

River sand. It is light, loose and very well passes the air, which is necessary for the formation of roots. But there is a problem – the sand dries up very quickly. Therefore, it will need to be watered frequently. Or add perlite to it, which retains moisture.

soil mixtures. There are 2 classic options:

river sand with peat in the ratio 1:1;
river sand with sheet soil in a ratio of 1: 1.

Sand in this case is a baking powder. And peat or earth provide moisture capacity, that is, planted cuttings will have to be watered less often.

Conditions for rooting cuttings

The cuttings are deepened into the substrate by about 1 cm. But you can’t just stick them in – this way you can jam the cut tissue and the roots do not form. You need to make holes with a stick or pencil, insert the cuttings there and lightly compress the soil with your hands.

Then the cuttings need to be well watered. And be sure to cover with either a jar or a plastic bag so that there is constantly high humidity around the planted cuttings. But! It is necessary (required!) Once a day to remove the jar (package) so that the cuttings are ventilated – otherwise they will become moldy and rot.

Another important point: the temperature of the soil should be about 21 ° C, and the air temperature is 2 – 3 ° C lower (2). There is no place for cuttings on the windowsill – it is always cooler there than necessary, and cold soil, combined with high humidity, always leads to an outbreak of fungal diseases.

And, of course, the cuttings need a lot of light. But not direct sunlight is the best – they will provoke increased evaporation of moisture from the leaves, as a result of which the cuttings can dry out.

Methods for cutting roses

Roses cuttings can be propagated at almost any time of the year. And there are some interesting methods that allow you to propagate roses more efficiently.

Cuttings of roses from a bouquet

The life span of bouquets donated on March 8 is fleeting – in most cases they will last no more than a week. And so we want this beauty to be with us always … But this is possible! For example, you can cut cuttings from roses from a bouquet, and then grow them in the garden.

Cuttings will take root only if the roses in the bouquet were fresh. It is useless to root dried shoots. But how to understand how fresh a flower is?

“The first thing you need to pay attention to is the sepals, small green “leaves” at the very base of the flower,” advises agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mihailova. – If they are raised up, literally “hugging” the bud, then the flower is fresh. If they are lowered down, then the rose has been cut long ago.

The second indicator of freshness is the leaves.

“If you take a flower in your hands, and the leaves begin to crumble, then the rose is stale,” says Svetlana Mikhailova.

By the way, many buyers are guided by the degree of dissolution of the flower. They think that if the rose is still in bud, it means that it was cut recently. Nothing like this!

“Until the moment of sale, roses are stored in the refrigerator,” explains Svetlana Mikhailova. – They are even transported in refrigerators. Under such conditions, the bud will not open. Moreover, flowers are always stored and transported “dry”, without water – they are simply packed in paper. And how much the rose spent in this form, no one knows.

It happens that without water and in the cold, roses spend a week or more. The buds will remain unopened, but the plant has already died. And so you bring home a bouquet, put it in water, hoping that now the flowers will bloom. But their heads just hang, never opening. They are dead. And it is pointless to cut such roses.

“This often happens with Dutch roses,” says Svetlana Mikhailova, “because they are brought from afar. But now there are a lot of greenhouse roses on the flower market. They are usually much fresher.

And that’s the easiest way to cut them.

Cutting roses in winter

In winter, you can cut cuttings from purchased roses, for example, from the same bouquets. Or specially buy a flower you like in the store. In this case, the method of propagation by semi-lignified cuttings is used.

Rose cuttings in spring

Experts do not advise doing a radical pruning of roses in the fall, it is better to pin the shoots to the ground for the winter, and if you use this particular technology, then spring cuttings of roses are your option. After the winter shelter has been removed from the plants, they need to be cut off – cut out frozen branches and remove excess stems. So these very extra stems are excellent material for cuttings.

In this case, the standard method of propagation by semi-lignified cuttings is also used.

cutting roses in summer

In summer, roses actively grow shoots, and at this time you can use the second method of reproduction – green cuttings. They are cut from May to July, but it is better in the budding phase (3).

The shoot intended for grafting must be strong, completely green. The cuttings are cut about 10 cm long, but it is important that they have 2-3 buds. The top cut is made directly above the kidney. The lower one is oblique, just below the kidney. The lower leaves should be removed, leaving a couple of the top ones. And cut them so that out of 3 – 5 plates only two remain.

Before planting, the cuttings should be placed in a Heteroauxin solution for 12 hours to stimulate root formation.

Prepared cuttings are planted in a school – a secluded quiet place with fertile soil, deepening by 1,5 – 2 cm. Water well and cover with a film. Roses are photophilous plants, however, under the scorching rays of the sun, the cuttings begin to evaporate moisture too actively and dry out rather than give roots. Therefore, the shkolka should be done either under the light shade of trees, or the cuttings should be shaded with coniferous branches or burlap.

The cuttings planted in the school should be watered often – the soil should be moist all the time. And in hot weather, it is useful to rinse the film with cold water.

The roots of green cuttings of roses are usually formed after 3 – 4 weeks – new leaves speak of this. After that, the film must be gradually opened so that the plants get used to the open air – first for a couple of hours in the morning, then longer and longer. After 2 weeks, the film is removed completely.

In the future, young roses should be constantly watered, and carefully covered for the winter. In the spring they can be planted with a clod of earth in permanent places.

Rose cuttings in potatoes

In this way, both green and semi-lignified cuttings can be rooted. They are prepared in a standard way, but before planting they are stuck into potatoes, and only then, together with the tuber, they are planted in a school in the garden.

Why do they do it? And in order for the cuttings not to dry out, if it is not possible to water them often, this method is useful for weekend summer residents. Juicy potatoes. The moisture in it remains for a very long time, and even if the soil is dry, the cutting will not die.

Rose cuttings using the burrito method

This method of rooting cuttings is becoming more popular year by year. And it got its name from the Mexican analogue of shawarma – burrito. And you will understand why.

The point is this. The lower cut, as with traditional cuttings, is dusted with a root formation stimulator. Then several pieces of cuttings (usually 5-10 are recommended) are wrapped in 2-3 layers of newspaper or paper towels, moistened with water so that the paper is moist, but not wet, and then loosely (it is important that air penetrated inside) wrapped in polyethylene. It turns out a kind of bundle, similar to the same shawarma burrito. It is cleaned in a dark, cool place with a temperature of 14 – 18 ° C.

It is important! If the temperature is lower, the roots will not form. And if it is higher, the cuttings will either dry out (even constant moisture often does not save), or they will become moldy and begin to rot.

As a rule, callus on cuttings is formed after 3 weeks. If this does not happen, the cuttings are again wrapped in paper (if it has dried up, it must be moistened again) and the film and again sent to a dark, cool place.

When the callus is formed, the cuttings are planted one by one in pots in light nutrient soil (mixtures for traditional rooting of cuttings are suitable) so that only 1 bud is above the soil surface, watered and covered with a jar or bag. And now they need to be placed in a bright (but not under direct sunlight) and warm place – the temperature should be 23 – 25 ° C.

The burrito method, as practice shows, gives a higher percentage of rooting. And even varieties of roses that are difficult to propagate by cuttings, with this method, give roots much more readily.